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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Dress with a single cut shoulder flaps from shelves


Dress made from wool blend, wool or thick silk plain fabric (sizes 48 - 56). Front with a low waistline. Telekrona back with shaped Darts. The skirt from traveling tuck vraboteni pockets. In undercut there are two soft folds. 

The undercut is covered by a flap, cut along with the bodice. The lower part of the valve is fastened to the skirt with two buttons. Vtachnoy sleeve, three-quarter. 

Collar sew-on type chalky, unfastened part of which is finished with bias binding.

Dress can be recommended in proportion to the folded as well as full figure with protruding abdomen, as the soft folds and flaps hide the lack of shape. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 110) 

the Style developed by the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 3аднее flag (Fig. 110, a). The width of the sprout on the shoulder to increase by 1 cm At the waist to make two scalloped tucks: the first from the middle of the back of the cloth at the waist line at 7 cm, the second at a distance of 3 cm from the first, the depth of the Darts 2 cm From the waist line up the length of the Darts should be 12 cm down - 14. From the end of the tucks to defer to the right by 2.5 cm and place them as shown in Fig. 110. 

 The front panel (Fig. 110, b). The width of the neck at the shoulder slice to increase by 1 cm In the middle of the front, from the bottom of the neck down to defer 8 - 10 cm (optional). Point 1, 8 - 10 connect to form the mouth. Shoulder a tuck move in the lateral slice. To do this, divide it into three parts and from the top of the division to cause the cutting line of the pattern to the end of the shoulder tuck.

The depth of tackle Darts split in half. From the dividing point on the waist line and end tackle tuck postpone left 4 cm - the width of the valve. Parallel to the first line of tackle Darts to draw a line where from the waist to defer down 18 - 20 cm - the length of the valve. From a point 18 and 20 to the left to defer 6 cm - the width of the valve, and down 5 see Points 5, 6 and 4 (at the waist) to connect as shown in Fig. 110 b. Second half tuck (2 cm) to postpone the second side of the valve.

From the waist line on the side to cut down delay 12 - 15 cm, and in the middle of the front - 4 - 6.5 cm. plotting points to connect a smooth line. It will be a line cut of the bodice together with the valve. 

From the cutting line of the bodice on the first line of tackle Darts in the skirt to defer down 9 see the resulting cut is divided into two parts. From the point of 12 - 15 on the side to cut down delay 12 see the resulting cut is divided in half and apply the cut patterns in the side of the slice. 

If desired, the skirt hem can be raskleit, adding to the side cut of the cloth back, 4 - 5 cm, front - 5 - 6 cm 

 Collar (Fig. 110,). To construct a right angle with the vertex at the point A. From point A the right to postpone the 21 cm and 33 cm down From point 33 to hold the right line, equal to line A21. Point 21 B to connect and point down to 21 defer 12 cm - the width of the collar in the back. Point 12, 33 connect. The resulting line is divided into three parts. From the points of division at right angle up having to postpone 2 and 4.5 cm For the design of the line terminations of the collar to connect the resulting points with a smooth line. For registration of escape of the collar to divide the segment A21 into four pieces, and cut the A33 into three parts.From the bottom division to defer to the left 1 see plotting points to connect a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 110, V.

Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 111) 

 3аднее panel (see Fig. 110, a) to find a common thread with the allowance of 5 - 7 cm on one-way pleat. 

 The shelf (Fig. 111, a). By applying the line pattern cut, not dorezaya to the end of the shoulder 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck from the line side of the slice. On the cutting line of the bodice in the pocket to give the seam allowance of the fabric on the sacking of the pocket 12, see If a fabric is not sufficient, then to give allowance of the main fabric 5 - 6 cm, and the bottom part of the burlap to pricecat from a different cloth to match the product.

For machining the valve pockets to otkroite detail the shape of the valve by 0.5 cm (Fig, 111,).

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 111). To obtain soft pleats shaped lines caused the pattern to be cut in the side of the cut, not dorezaya 0.5 cm pattern pieces to take up to 4 cm 

When cutting the middle of the front cloth patterns to attach to the fold of the fabric at common thread. For machining the pocket to otkroite obtachku, which is the burlap pocket. 

 Collar (Fig. 111, g). Top collar to cut out with a seam 0.5 - 1 cm on all the slices and the bottom 0.5 cm

 binding (Fig. 111, d). Width finishing bakey collar 7 cm, length equal to the escape of the collar. To find the binding on the bias thread. 

 Bow to carve out for a cross or common thread length 18 cm, width 8 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 111. 

Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels of slip-stitch. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Sweep tuck. 

4. Sweep the crease on the back panel of the dress. 

5. To connect the shelf with the front panel of the skirt. 

6. Baste shoulder and side seams and do a fitting.

7. After trying to move all the fixes from the right side to the left. 

8. Sew the tuck and fold. Sew the fold at the lines outside of the bend. At the end of the unilateral pleat detail to turn at right angles and scribbling in lines across the seam allowance on the fold. Then, without lifting thread, sew the seam under the fold (if present) from the transverse lines to the bottom (Fig. 111, e). Fold priotity. 

9. On the valve (item 2) to handle obecnie loop.

10. Handle valve podkralas detail. Fold the flap and podkraj face inward, to sweep in the corners, making the fit of the main parts, and sew on podkralas parts with a seam width of 0.5 cm and Then remove the valve, straightening the corners to make a re-cut from the main product, prometall and priotity. 

11. Baste and sew the pulley-block Darts.

12. To lay in soft folds on the front panel of the skirt (item 3) to make a cut to one half the depth of the second folds, and at the end of nadziejko the width of the seam. To lay soft folds and sweep away the undercut. Edge oblachat Hessian of the main fabric. Seam primaqiune burlap to resaturate. Sew the undercut together with an allowance for machining of the upper edge of the skirt and the burlap.

Burlap pocket with seam allowance to turn inside out detail, sweeping up from the burlap, forming the edging of main part of a width of 0.1 cm, and stitch around the edges of the pockets at a distance of 1 - 2 cm to put the prepared item 3 on the shelf, combining snare, baste and Topstitch finishing stitching, the same width as the stitching on the pockets. 

13. Sew the burlap pocket. 

14. Sew shoulder and side seams.

15. To prepare and vacate collar. The bias tape folded in half with wrong side inside, forming edge borders to delay the iron, and fold bake sucurity. Prepared to bake pritchet to the front side of the lower collar (podvorotnya), keeping the width in its finished form, is equal to 3 cm. folded to upper and lower collar face inward and oblachat from the bottom of the seam primaqiune borders. The joint concave sections to make the notch. Collar to twist, bend and bake towards the top of the collar, sweeping up from the bottom forming edge with a width of 0.1 cm from the top of the collar.Then stitch the collar to stand at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, propuska upper collar freely lower to 0.3 cm.

When connecting products with the collar, you need to ensure that the middle of his strictly coincide with the middle of the back and collar are well suited to the neck, Vetiva collar, it is necessary to slightly passivate. Collar vacate from the piping, applying it to the top of collar facing inward (facing can be cut on the bias thread). 

Facing the bend and the inner edge of the hem with hidden stitches or pristroit on the machine. 

16. Processing and vacate sleeves. 

17. Hem the bottom of the dress and sew the buttons. 

18. To prepare the bow and attach manually.

19. To protect the bodice from stretching at the waist to put dolevik.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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