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Home » Articles » According to the laws of beauty

Brief biography of the costume

7 part

In the late EIGHTEENTH and early NINETEENTH century in Russia are beginning to enter fashion magazines: "Fashion light", "Fashion for all", "Fashion Express". 
The development of clothing contributed to a significant increase in the number of master cutters and tailors. 
Among the peasants of Russia began to appear the craftsmen-tailors, called then the "Shubnikov", which performed orders for the more prosperous peasants. There was a lot of tailors in Moscow. In the reign of Catherine II to the Senate decree of 1760, says: "there is a Great number of tailors here harmful for the state of luxury".
In the last quarter of the NINETEENTH century in Russia the tailor's craft is increased. In the cities in connection with this expanded cottage industry. Among the artisans pronounced the distinctive talent of Russian craftsmen - cutters, well knew how to adapt Western European costume to the Russian conditions, to give him a national peculiarity. 
By the end of the NINETEENTH century among the more progressive tailors tailors Russia, the emerging wide movement aimed not only on the aesthetic development of the suit, but also creation of own Russian style in clothes.
But these goals are hampered by the lack of qualified personnel, professional imperfection of the bulk of cutters and tailors. To model, create new models, different from others, to have its say and needed a good master. That is why in 1896 cutters travelers companies of St. Petersburg builds the first auxiliary society St. Petersburg tailors who set themselves the task to promote the development of the art of tailoring in Russia.Soon this society is part of the international Union of tailors-tailors, formed in 1877 in Brussels on the initiative of the Belgian society of tailors. In 1902 the St. Petersburg subsidiary of the company of cutters opens Academic courses of cutting, in which the most talented professionals are trained in modeling and clothing design.
In 1902, the tailor of Alexander Roller, known not only in the country, publishes the world's first art album tutorial sewing "Tailor". He was awarded the domestic and foreign gold and silver medals and diplomas, the title of member of the Stuttgart Academy of arts. 
In March 1908 he published the first issue of a monthly magazine "the Art of tailors" - National technical sartorial authority. It releases new designs and models of clothes prominent cutters in Russia.
Keeping in suit of the valuable features of Western fashion, which seemed necessary, Russian cutters, however, with genuine artistic skill created the type of the new costume, approximate in its silhouette, form and purpose to the requirements of citizenship and simplicity. Their coats different designs and simplistic styles that are available to wider segments of the urban population, are in great demand. With extraordinary ingenuity they implement Raglan English origin and give it a special identity.Raglan gets in Russia, very popular, and still remains a recognized classic form contemporary women's and men's clothing.
The development of the tailoring craft in Russia contributes to the establishment of own fashion, the displacement uniformity in women's and men's clothes, paves the way for the prototype of the modern suit. This suit with a jacket Korotkova there are over a hundred years. And although it has undergone various transformations, has been improved structurally, was enriched with a new palette of colors, made up of diverse species, found great artistic expressiveness, naturalness and propriety of forms, it became the standard costume of all civilized peoples of the world.
The history of the Soviet clothing has many great examples of our overall growth and growth of the art of modeling. It is interesting and instructive, deserves special attention and therefore we devote a special Chapter.

As we can see, even a brief study of the history of clothing shows how socio-economic conditions of the communities, the ideological orientation of the various classes found a certain reflection in the development and character of the costume of a particular era, as these conditions and attitudes have lead to the loss of local and national characteristics of the clothing or the later revival. Sometimes the emergence of a new kind of suit directly dictated by the considerations of a political nature. And if you need any more historical examples, the best would be "Peter".
In fact, when Peter 1 introduced in Russia a Western European suit, he was well aware that it is motivated solely by political events of the era. This change of clothes was only the outer shell of the state reforms carried out by Peter and so necessary for Russia. But as the country reached the height of its prestige, worthy of a great power, eliminated the need for the existence of such shell, is not peculiar to the original folk costume, with all its national peculiarities. Gradually, the clothing of the past in General has lost all historical and aesthetic sense.
Another example is the French revolution of 1789, which proclaimed the idea of freedom, equality and brotherhood.
In order to fully implement this idea, among other reforms had been carried out and the reform of costume. The authorities set the same for all classes and classes the type of new clothing to appearance it was impossible to distinguish the citizen of noble birth from the representative of the third estate (bourgeoisie, urban), as it was before the revolution, when the privileged classes wore the garb of a special style. These changes immediately take effect. Even known the dandified Parisians, especially during the terror, tried to be a little more subtle, quieter.They dressed as relaxed to give it more deliberately rustic, wild look. The courtiers did their best if only they did not recognize the aristocrats. They are dressed in a short working jacket, "Carmagnola", which was then considered the form of members of the Jacobin club.
In the turbulent times of political views and sympathies were changed pretty quickly. And the barometer that reacts to the weather, hesitating fashion. Suit the Parisians were changing almost monthly, and sometimes daily. Even women's costume and he was freed, then, from the elaborate excesses and any special frills. 
One chronicler of the time wrote: "to describe the suit of any person in Paris, few know its taste, you need to be aware of even his political beliefs." 
Something similar happened in France during the first world war, which found a kind response in the cut and style of clothing.
In the winter of 1915, eccentric Parisian ladies, showing your patriotism and love for the allies, brought into fashion a completely "original" costume. It was a demonstration of unity in front of all three of the Entente powers - Russia, England and France.
It looked like this. Top Russian shirt with a zipper on the right side, collar, cuffs of sleeves and the right floor sheathed Serbian laces. The waist was wrapped with a narrow military belt. Skirt below the knees, English-cut and typical of the English pattern in a large square. Stockings French fishnet. Shoes also French. Hat - "international style" - was a delicately made of silk artillery weapons: shield with the muzzle forward and to the sides of the wheel from the frame, covered with tulle.
Perhaps these examples are too shots. But be that as it may, the fact remains - the life of society, its class and political views do affect the external appearance of the people that make it up. This is an immutable law of historical development.



Category: According to the laws of beauty | Added by: 30.06.2018
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