The FORMATION of a NEW STYLE (part 2)
a Wide and open debate about fashion promoted the right direction. And the fact that they were attended not only by professionals but also workers of different specialties showed their deep interest on the increased spiritual capacity of the people. From this point of view it is interesting to get acquainted with the judgments made in 1928. Let us consider just one girls, the First state tobacco factory of a name Uritsky, Leningrad V. Mikhailova. She said:
"I believe that to dress according to the fashion need, but that this fashion was cheap, and simple, and at the same time graceful. Take short skirts. If a woman has beautiful legs, so why close them with a long skirt. If nice hair, then you should not for the sake of fashion to cut them off".
Like said here today. As these words and now beaten by those who hypocritically denies short dresses, and for those who are in pursuit of fashion, not only exaggerates it, but a blind adherence to her he is like. We must always remember that "if". "If a woman has beautiful legs", "if nice hair". Oh, how much it means, "if", as it is important to remember it!
Back to developing our style of clothing.
Years go by, fashion, expressing the aesthetic interests of the General population, it becomes a state matter. In the early forties gets the first contest of contemporary Soviet clothing. In 1934 he created the Moscow house of models, later transformed into the Union and became recognized as a legislator of the Soviet fashion. Later created models home in the capitals of the Union republics. In 1939 was held in Leningrad all-Union review of clothing.All this and other measures, including the training of qualified specialists, led to the creation of the Soviet school of a new style of modeling and designing clothes, the new dress culture.
In the grim years of the great Patriotic war, further development directions of the Soviet fashion, for obvious reasons, slowed down. But only temporarily, because in November 1944, despite the large voltage of the final stage of the war, the Soviet government found it possible to oblige Marconigram Soviet Union to publish a fashion magazine, which is now a quarter-century on the pages promotes new fashion, aesthetics and culture of clothing.
The development of everything related to fashion clothes, took the character of a wide discussion; Art tips modeling organizations, meetings, fashion designers and cutters, the statement in the press - all this had a beneficial impact both on the development of the theoretical foundations of the aesthetics of clothing and the practical side of creating elegant, contemporary Soviet designs.
In January 1949 was created by the CMEA - Council for Mutual Economic assistance. countries of the socialist camp. In this international economic organization was part of the Soviet Union, Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland, Romania, Czechoslovakia and the GDR. Among other events are annually held meetings of the Permanent working Commission for culture clothing of the participating countries of CMEA. They are considered aesthetic principles of clothing of a new direction, problems of the development of fashion, etc.In the result of a friendly exchange of experience, creative community, fashion designers and cutters were able to develop a common modeling style. The unity of purpose, the desire to meet the aesthetic needs of the workers - that brings together specialists of the socialist countries and had beneficial results.
Soviet collections of clothes for different purposes repeatedly demonstrated at international congresses mod of socialist countries in Berlin, Warsaw, Budapest, Sofia, Prague, at international fairs in Paris, new York, Leipzig, Cairo, Rio de Janeiro and received a high rating. About the enormous progress in the development of our simulation is indicated by the following facts. At the international competitions of clothes in Prague (1953) and Budapest (1954) the Soviet Union won first place and was awarded the honorary Cup. At the competition in 1956 many of our models were awarded gold and silver medals.A triumph of Soviet fashion was to show our collection at the world exhibition "EXPO 67" in Montreal (Canada), which was attended by about 70 countries of the world. "Russian style" clothes, as he wrote in foreign Newspapers, are 150 ensembles, met an enthusiastic reception of participants and visitors. They are made with all-Union fashion house, the all-Union house of models jerseys, Kiev, Riga and Leningrad houses of the models and reflect the achievements of our multinational culture. It is found particularly successful embodiment in national costumes Soviet republics.
We will return in a separate Chapter to what effect have had our Soviet style on the development of fashion abroad. Now let's just say that imitation became Russian in the West fashion. Local designers hold, as they say, your eyes open, listen closely to what you are doing for their talented counterparts from the Soviet Union.
Modern socialist fashion direction that focuses not on individuals, but on the broad masses of workers of all age groups, occupations, sectors of the population. His most important concern is creating clothes of various styles and silhouette forms, the development of a widely available, simple, concise and yet joyful, life-affirming models.
The rapid pace of development of the textile industry on the basis of the new chemistry creates for the Soviet designers a broad perspective of creativity. Indeed, we have not had time to fully explore new fabrics from synthetic and artificial fibres with a wide and diverse range of colors and patterns, as the industry gave us a whole new fabric of extraordinary weight and with a fine mirror surface. It's called "mirror".Sewn from this fabric clothes can be worn in cold and tropical heat, as the reflective surface it prevent the leakage of body heat, in one case, and do not absorb radiant energy of the sun, in the other. Thus, the birth of a new tissue opens unlimited opportunities for designers in the exploration and development of aesthetics of clothing, finding original artistic solutions, creating the most convenient and practical samples, it is best adapted to the specific conditions of work and rest of the Soviet people.However, they are a new source of inspiration, joy, artistic, and moral enrichment. This idea was confirmed at a meeting once in the Central house of writers writing "reviewing" different items and clothing made of light industry. All the participants of the discussion clearly sounded one thing: the flavors are divided into good and bad. Household items, costume, toy, executed with taste, bring to us beauty, quiet, aesthetically educate people.
They often say that tastes differ. But is it really the taste is so individual that it is impossible to identify any General trend? As shown by a detailed analysis of the feedback received during various exhibitions and demonstrations, our Soviet way of life, social environment in which we revolve, the education that we receive, promote the development of good, healthy, truly unmistakable taste and view of things. Our people have a pretty good idea "what is good, what is bad." And in this the development of good taste there is nothing from the evil of partisanship. It has been influenced by the common ideology of our people, the common goals embodied in the General requirements for style and culture clothing. To the style, not that anyone should wear. Here everyone is free in his choice.
Of course, fashion is changeable. But the basis of her well-developed taste, a deep and constant contact with modernity, respect for public opinion. Together with changes of form and color, line and silhouette of the clothing reflected the economic transformation in the country, the emergence of new fabrics, new possibilities. The process twofold: fashion creates new tastes and fashion - the creation of new tastes and new production possibilities. So there is the art style.
The editorial Board of the Union of artists "Decorative art USSR" once held a discussion on the topic: "Fashion and style in art". In a wide discussion of this important issue of our time was attended by the artists, theorists of the decorative arts, fashion designers clothes, art historians, scientists, artists. Was asked this question: "can fashion be a guide of good taste, a means of aesthetic education of the masses?" Here's some answers.
N. Zhukov, artist: "Fashion always has power over beauty, these concepts should be inseparable".
I. Ilyinsky, people's artist: "Fashion is the result of the interaction of the artist with the ever-changing tastes and demands of a more or less wide circle of people. Life itself is fighting for people's tastes, and time is always accurately judge who is right and who is wrong."
N. Dmitrieva, art historian: "Through natural selection and drop-out rates in the clothing are the most artistic principles that characterize the architecture and applied arts. Fashionable clothing is not uniform".
S. Kirsanov, poet: "Fashion moves forward, the culture and the aesthetics of everyday life. Most often she chooses the most appropriate (from the standpoint of the present) decisions. If it were not for this wonderful commitment to permanent change and improvement, we would never have moved from loincloths to modern costume. Fashion - a feast for the eyes in the background of everyday life."
Undoubtedly, fashion is part of an overall material culture of our society, the reflection and manifestation authoritative for the era of aesthetic taste in the field of clothing. Change of fashion is not a whim of designers, but people need things to be updated in line with changing domestic and aesthetic needs, tastes, requests. Expressing the General tone and nature of things, fashion however, as we have noted, does not bind and does not eliminate personal taste.
Of course, there are people who are indifferent or indifferent to fashion, neglecting its advantages. Some even considers it disreputable to follow it.
Recently this writer after the publication of a magazine, and his article "Men and fashion" got a letter from a reader from Vologda. My correspondent does not want to call his name, so we assume it is conditional, for example, Sidorov. So the letter of comrade Sidorov, as related to the topic of our conversation, deserves to have his quote, EZLN not completely then at least partially. And, moreover, without any editing.
"...You write and illustrate the individual styles of men's clothing far and near of our ancestors and give outlines for future designs of men's clothing.
Of course, modern cut suits incomparably more beautiful and more convenient costume, say, ancient Egyptians or the Russian peasant of the time of Peter, etc. It's supposed to be, the person develops, locates more convenient and good, rejects the bad. And the civilization of man. However, fashion is not always consistent with those principles. Often we can be witnesses, when,comfortable fit clothing replaced fashion designers on a less comfortable fit, more beautiful clothes less beautiful, and only because of fashion. Here it is quite useless. How many times the poor vest was shaking fashion.It appears, it disappears. Here in the past 50 years, he's third or even fourth time appearing in Vogue. Why is that? Or, for example, in the 20-ies of our century, the young people wore trousers pants bell bottom. Funny they looked in them. Laughed at this line, and so they were in fashion long. But now designers again took to the pages of magazines, but still cranky. Sew the tabs, buttons like previous clowns, wedges, bright colors, etc., and some dudes trying to convince them that it is beautiful.Okay, agree with them that beautiful and convenient, and let them wear them for decades, so no, in a year you make them.