Dress cutting through the waist, yoke on the front of
an Old dress (Fig. 361 a). Dress potrebnoe waist with set-in sleeves. On the back and front inverted pleats. The second piece is a skirt (Fig. 361 b).
New product (Fig. 361). Dress fitted silhouette, cut at the waist, a surplice bodice forms a soft slouchy fit, and straight skirt. Shoulder line clear, direct, supported shoulder pad thick 1 cm Sleeve one-piece, casting, deep armhole, the bottom part close to the shirt. The top part of the sleeve is filled with soft inverted pleats. The dress is made of fabrics of different colors.
Construction drawing of the model (Fig. 362). Enclosed in the contours of the parts: the upper part of the front, the upper back, lower front, lower back. The circuits are applied to the line of the chest, the line bounding the width of the back, the width of the front. Tuck in the shoulder cut of the back is not designed. The length of the shoulder cut is equal to the dimension of the width of the shoulder of the slope (SHP) plus the increase in landing
А2П2 = SHP + fit = 13,3 + 0,7 =14 cm
Connect points A2, P2 by a straight line. Finally the shoulder cuts are made with a deflection of 0.5 cm at a distance of 1/3 the length of the shoulder cut from the neck.
Further deepening the openings is equal to 6.5 cm.
Г1Г11 = Г4Г41 = 6.5 cm
Length of the upper part of the back and upper part of the front is lengthened by the amount of overlap.
AT1 = DTS = PTS + overlap = 42,9 + 0,5 + 3 = 46, 4 see
А3Т81 = DP + P + overlap = 44,4 + 1,5 + 3 = 48,9 cm
to the Left from the point T4 delayed 1.5 cm, a dot T41. Т4Т41 = 1.5 cm Down vertically from the point T41 is deposited 1 cm, a dot Т42. Т41Т42 = 1 cm
From the point P3 to the right horizontally deposited 1 cm, a dot П31.
П3П31 = 1 cm; G111 = 5.5 cm (the bisector); G '11G'2 = 1, see
the Line of openings is conducted through the points P2, П31, 1, G'2 a smooth line.
A lateral cut is performed through the points G'2, Т42 a smooth line.
On the front of the shoulder cut А9П5 is equal to the dimension of the width of the shoulder crown and 13.3 cm Chest tuck front moves to the waist line. To do this, from the point G6 drop a perpendicular down to the waist line. The pattern on the intended line cut. Side of the shoulder tuck are combined. A lateral cut is performed through the points Г2ТЗ a smooth line. Line of the yoke is applied to the patterns with a closed shoulder tuck. The size and shape of the yoke are determined by the model. Flirty cut. Collar stachivaya at a distance of 32 cm from the point A5 (Fig. 362).
Sleeve (Fig. 363). Builds a right angle with the vertex at point O2. Through the point O2 is the horizontal and vertical lines. The height of the crown is equal to 17.5 cm Down from the point O2 of the vertical segment is delayed О2О1 equal to 17.5 cm Through the point O1 draw a horizontal line on which is deposited the width of the sleeve equal to the measurement of the arm circumference (Op) plus the increase in free fit.
W sleeve = Op + P = 30,3 + 24 = 54,3 see
О1Р1 = О1Р2 = 1/2 X W sleeve = 1/2 X 54,3 = 27,2 cm
Segments О1Р1 and О1Р2 split in half.
О1Рп = О1Рл = 1/2 X О1Р1 = 13,6 cm
Down from point O2 of the vertical delay period equal to the length of the sleeve plus the overlap minus the width of cuff, a dot M.
О2М = 60 + 2 - b = 56 cm
From the point M draw a horizontal line. From the point RP up is restored to the perpendicular to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn through the point O2, which is delayed a period equal to Г4П6 = 6.4 cm (the drawing front). PP1 = 6.4 cm From the point of RL is restored up perpendicular to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn through the point O2, which is delayed a period equal to Г1П3 = 8.6 cm (drawing back). РлР3 = 4.6 cm
From point 1 to the right, and from point P3 to the left are horizontal lines on which the segments are deposited on 2.5 cm, are respectively the points 1', R'3.
From the point O3 to the left is the cut О3О5 equal to half cut О2О3 minus 2 cm
О3О5 = 1/2 X О2О3 - 2 = 1/2 X 13.6 - 2 = 4,8 cm
From the point O2 to the left is the cut О2О6 equal to half cut О2О4.
О2О6 = О2О4 1/2 X = 1/2 X 13.6 = 6,8 cm
From the points O5 and O6 are the bisectors of the angles, on which are respectively deposited segments.
About52 = 2.5 cm; About63 = 1.5 cm.
On the bisector drawn from point RP', has been postponed cut Er'8, equal to 4.8 cm On the bisector drawn from the point of RL, delayed cut Рл4 equal to 8 cm
On the horizontal drawn from the point M to the right and left fixed segments MM1 and MM2 is equal to half the width of the sleeve at the bottom - 17 sm and MM1, MM2, divided in half, put points M4 and M3.
MM3 = MM 4 = 8.5 cm
the bottom Line is made a smooth line М3М5 = М4М6 = 0,7 cm
From the point P1 to the left, and from the point P2 to the right the segments are deposited, is equal to 2.5 cm
Р1Р11 = Р2Р21 = 2.5 cm.
Points P11, P21, M1 and M2 are connected by straight lines, on which are respectively deposited segments equal to 12 cm
Р11Р12 = Р21Р22 = 12 see
the line of the top part of the sleeve is carried out through the points P2, P'3, 3, O2, 2, 1', P1. The side sections of the sleeve are held through points P2, P22, M2, and P1, P12, M smooth lines.
Pattern sleeves straight cut О2М and diluted 10 cm top part of sleeve to the depth of inverted folds (dotted lines).
The lower part of the dress (Fig. 364 a). Based on the straight skirt. In the left side seam of the insert (Fig. 364 b), laid folds. Insertion length 35 cm, depth - 7 cm
layout parts cut are shown in the figures 365, 366, 367.