Jacket for girls of school age
the Old product (Fig. 417 a). Cloak men's straight-leg silhouette with Welt side pockets, with the Central onboard fastener on three buttons. The size of the product 164-100-82.
New product (Fig. 417 b). Jacket for girls of school age, three-dimensional form on a banded waistband with zip closure, with reliefs on the shelves and back, with decorative stitching and metal eyelets.
Construction drawing of the model (Fig. 418). In the drawing need the following data, see:
SSH - 17,2; SHP - 12,6;
SG - 39,5; DTS - 40,0;
SG - 41,9; DTP - 40,8;
CG - 40,0; ITC - 40,2;
SB - 44,7; SHG - 15,3;
Op - 25,0; RC - 16,1;
St - 31,6; VPRS - 19,0.
Builds a right angle with the vertex at point A0, which is directed to the right horizontally and down.
From the point A0 to the right along the horizontal line is the cut equal to the measurement poluobhvat chest of the third (Sh) plus the increase, a dot A1.
А0а1 = SG + Ng = 40 + 12 = 52 cm
From the point A0 to the right along the line А0а1 delayed period equal to half the width of the back, plus a raise, put a dot.
А0а = SS + N = 16 + 2,5 = 18,6 cm
From the point A1 to the left is delayed a period equal to 20,2 cm
A1A2 = CG + (CG - CG) + P = 15,3 + (41,9 - 39,5) + 2,5 = 20,2 see
From the points a and A2 down are the vertical lines that limit the area of openings in width. From point A0 to bottom vertically is delayed a period equal to the measurement ITRS plus increase, a dot G.
А0Г = Wprs + PSPR = 20 + 8 = 28 cm
From point G to the right draw a horizontal line.
Down from point A0 at the vertical hold with a cut equal to the measurement length backless to waist (DTS) plus increase, plus extension, a dot, Etc
А0Т = DTS + Pdts + elongation = 40 + 0,5 + 5,5 = 46 cm
From point T to the right draw a horizontal line. The point of intersection of the vertical line indicates the point of kzt81. Т81Т8 = 0.5 cm
From the point T8 up is delayed a period equal to the length measurement of the front to the waist (DTP) plus increase, plus extension, a dot A3.
Т8А3 = DTP + PDP + elongation = 40,8 + 1,2 + 5,5 = 47,5 cm,
From point A3 to the left draw a horizontal line, which is the cut А3А31 equal to 1 cm.
From the point A0 to the right and from the point A31 to the left the segments are deposited А0А2 and А31А4 equal to 1/2 poluobhvat neck plus a raise.
А0А2 = А31А4 = 1/3 X SSH + N = 17,2/3 + 1,5 = 7,2 cm
Depth neckline backless:
А0А = 1/3 X А0А2 = 7,2/3 = 2,4 cm
the Depth of the neck shelves is determined by the cut А31А5.
А31А5 = А31А4 + 1 = 7,2 + 1 = 8,2 see
the position of the end shoulder point P1 is the intersection of the two arcs from point A2 with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder of the slope (SHP) plus landing, and from the point T with a radius equal to the height of the shoulder slash (VPC) plus increase, plus extension.
А2П1 = SHP + fit = 12,6 + 0,4 = 13 see
TP1 = ITC + P + elongation = 40,2 + 2,5 + 5,5 = 48 see
Point A2 and A1 are connected by a straight line. From point P1 to restore the perpendicular to the vertical AG1, a dot P2.
The height of the front area of the openings Г4П4 equal to 24.5 cm.
Up from the point G1 is delayed a period equal to 1/3 of the height of the rear section of the armhole plus 2, a dot P3.
Г1П3 = 1/3 X Г1П2 + 2 = 25/3 + 2 = 10,Z see
Г4П6 = 1/3 X Г4П4 = 24,5/3 = 8,2 cm
Tuck in this model is not designed.
The shoulder seam is lengthened by 7 cm and is translated in the direction of the shelves.
А2А12 = П1П11 = П4П15 = А4А14 = 1.5 cm
П11П112 = П15П51 = 7
Cut Г1П4 is divided in half, a dot D2. Right and left of the point G2 on the horizontal line segments are deposited Г2Г21 and Г2Г22 equal to 2 cm Г2Г21 = Г2Г22 = 2 cm
Extension of the backrest at the point P3 is equal to 5.5 cm. П3П31 = 5.5 cm Extension shelves at the point P6 is equal to 4.5 cm П6П60 = 4.5 cm
armhole Line of the back is carried out through П112, П31, Г22. Line of the armhole shelves - via point П51, П60, Г21. The side sections are made smooth lines.
Application model features are shown in figure 418.
Sleeve. Are the two mutually perpendicular lines, the intersection point is denoted by O1. The height of the crown is equal to the segment О1О2 11 cm From the point O1 to the right and left horizontal segments are deposited, is equal to the half width of the sleeves.
W sleeve = Op + P = 25 + 23 = 48 see
О1Р1 = О1Р2 = 1/2 X Rukawa = 48/2 = 24 cm
Segments О1Р1 and О1Р2 divided accordingly put point RP and RL, which are restored to the perpendicular to the line Р1Р2.
On the perpendicular from the point RP is delayed a period equal to half cut О1О2, put a dot 1.
RP1 = 1/2 X О1О2 = 11/2 = 5.5 cm.
On the perpendicular from the point RL is delayed a period equal to the interval of RP1 plus 0.5, is the point P3.
РлР3 = 1/2 X О1О2 + 0,5 = 11/2 + 0,5 = 6 cm
Segments Р2Р3, Р3О2, ABOUT21, 1R1 is divided in half. Perpendiculars, recovered from their means equal:
2 - 4 = 0.5 cm; 3 - 5 = 0.3 cm; 7 - 9 = 0.4 cm; 6 - 8 = 0.5 cm
, the top part of the sleeve is made through the points P2, 9, P3, 5, O2, 4, 1, 6, P1.
From the point O2 to bottom vertically is delayed a period equal to the length of the sleeve minus the elongation of the shoulder cut, a dot M.
О2М = 57 - 7 = 50 cm.
Through point M draw a horizontal line on which the point M to the right and left segments are deposited, is equal to half the width of the sleeve at the bottom. MM2 = MM1 = 18 see
the Lower section of the sleeve is made of a smooth line.
The layout of the parts cut are shown in figures 419 and 420.