Building design drawing of the vest (Fig. 430).
Source in building design drawing of the vest is a vertical line taken in the middle of the back, and intersecting the horizontal at the level of the top of the neck backless. The intersection point A0. Down from point A0 at the vertical hold with a cut equal to the measurement of the distance from the highest point of the designed the shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the level of the rear corners of the armpits (ITRS) with the addition of the freedom arm openings, a dot G.
А0Г = Wprs + PSPR = 21,5 + 10,5 = 32 see
Down from point A0 at the vertical hold with a cut equal to the measurement length backless to waist (DTS) with the addition, a dot, Etc
А0Т = DTS + Pdts = 42,9 + 0,5 = 43,4 cm
From point T down vertically is delayed a period equal to half the measurement of the length of the back minus 2 cm, a dot B.
TB = 1/2 X DTS - 2 = 42,9/2 - 2 = 19,4 see
to the Right of the point A0 is delayed a period equal to the dimension of poluobhvat chest of the third (Sh) with the addition to free fit at the chest line, a dot A1.
А0а1 = SG + PG = 48 + 9 = 57, see
From point G, T, B are horizontal lines. Through the point A1 is held down, a vertical line. The intersection of this line with the line of the chest is indicated with a dot G3, with waist - point T8, the line of the hips - B3. From the point A0 to the right is the period equal to half the measure of the width of the back (SHS) with the addition of free customized fit, put a dot.
А0а = SS + N = 18,3 + 3,5 = 21,8 cm
From the point A1 to the left is the segment equal to half the measure of the width of the chest (CC) plus the increase, a dot A2.
A1A2 = CG + P = 17,3 + 3.7 V = 21 cm.
From the points a, A2 down are the vertical lines that limit the area of openings in width. At the intersection of the verticals with the waist line are the points G1 and G4.
From the point T8 up through the middle of the front is delayed a period equal to the length measurement of the front to the waist (DTP) plus the increase, a dot A3. Т8А3 = TP + P = 44,4 + 1 = 45,4 cm
From the point A3 to the left draw a horizontal line.
From the point A0 to the right and away from the point A3 to the left the segments are deposited, is equal to 1/3 poluobhvat neck (SSH) plus the increase.
А0А2 = А3А9 = 1/3 X SSH + 1 = 18,5/3 + 2 = 8,2 see
From the point A0 on the line mid-back down is delayed a period equal to 1/3 cut А0А2, a dot A. А0А = 1/3 X А0А2 = 1/3 X 8.2 = 2.7 cm
Cut А0А determines the depth of the neck backless. The depth of the neck shelves is taken at 1 cm more than its width.
А3А5 = А3А9 + 1 = 8,2 + 1 = 9,2 cm
vest Length is delayed through the mid-back down. An = 64 cm with deviation of the midline of the back (ТТ1) is equal to 1.5 cm.
Point A and T1 are connected by a straight line that continues down to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn through the point N.
End-shoulder point of the back L1 is the intersection of the two arcs. One is from the point A2 to a radius equal to the width of the shoulder plus the top part fit, plus elongation.
А2П1 = 13,3 + 0,5 + 3 = 16,8 cm
the Second arc formed by the radius from point T1 equal to the height of the shoulder oblique plus raise.
Т1П1 = 43,2 + 2,3 = 45,5 cm
At the intersection of the arcs is point P1. From the point P1 is lowered perpendicular to the vertical, limiting the width of the back, a dot P2. The height of the front area of the openings Г4П1 equal to the height of the rear area of the openings Г1П2 minus 1 see
Г4П4 = Г1П2 - 1 = 28 - 1 = 27 cm
Cut А9П5 equal to the dimension of the width of the shoulder of the slope plus extension.
А9П5 = 13,3 + 3 = 16,3 see
the Beginning side of the slice is in the middle of the width of the openings. Г1Г2 = Г2Г4 = 7 see the Line of openings is conducted through the points P1, 1, 2, P5. G11 = 4 see Г24 = 4.5 cm.
the bottom Line of the back is always perpendicular to the midline of the back. Н1Н3 = 28 see Н2Н4 = 32 see
Moving the chest Darts
To build patterns of structures of different models, in addition to the ability to design Foundation designs should be able to transfer Darts from pattern to pattern basis. This files most often moves the upper chest tuck, as it is the main constructive-decorative element for creating three-dimensional forms. Breast tuck is always directed towards the center of the chest and can be transferred to the armhole, side cut, line the middle of the front, the waist, the neck may be replaced by tucks, smocking.
Transfer the breast Darts make as follows. Outline the new position of the Darts on one of the slices according to the model. Then the target point is connected to the center of the original location of the tuck, drawing cut along the new line, and the solution tuck basics close, combining its sides. To achieve smoothness in the processing of the bulge on the breast tuck should not reach the center of the chest 1-2 cm if it is in the shoulder cut, the neckline, the armhole (Fig. 431), and 3-4 cm if it is in the waistline, the center front, side slice (Fig. 432).When building reliefs, undercuts, coquettes first applied the lines of their locations, and then transferred the solutions of Darts. Location coquettes, reliefs, undercuts determined by the model. Mostly reliefs pass through the center of the chest, in this case, the solution of a breast tuck is transferred to a shaped line the techniques that are described above.
If shaped lines do not coincide with the center of the chest, when transfer breast tuck may reveal additional tuck or you can replace it with assemblies (Fig. 433, 434). When the difference between the poluobhvat chest second (Sh) and poluobhvat chest first (SG) breast tuck, it is recommended to split into two solutions.
Choosing the position of the Darts, it is necessary to consider the direction of the warp and weft. For greater plasticity of form is best placed Darts at an angle to the warp and weft. The position of the tuck also affect the flow of material when cutting the product. The most economical are the Darts coming from the neck, armholes and mid front if they aim above the center of the chest. Especially uneconomical tuck, extending from the hip line to the highest point of the chest.
Transfer tucks on the sleeves produced by the same methods as on the bodice.