TERMS AND DEFINITIONS
the facing - piece garments for processing slices.
Gasket - a part or subassembly garments to stiffen; a between the upper and lower layers of material.
Leaf - pocket detail decorates the lower part of the incision and anchored to the sides.
Gusset - stitched or televitrina with sleeves detail at hem, armholes that provide ease of movement.
Burlap - detail to design the depth of the pockets.
The valve - pocket detail, covering the upper cutting line.
The belt loops - detail garments for threading and holding the belt, the belt in a certain position.
Beyka - detail for finishing garments in the form of a strip of material connected to a part or product on the two longitudinal stripes.
Ruche - detail for finishing garments in the form of a narrow strip of material gathered or wrinkling in the middle.
Flounce - detail for finishing garments in a wide strip of fabric gathered or wrinkling in the middle.
Kit - full set of clothes and items that complement her and make up with her costume that meets a certain, specific purpose. An important feature of the kit is the interchangeability of its parts.
The ensemble - clothing and complementary items that make up the artistic whole. The ensemble should correspond to the shape of a man. A characteristic feature of contemporary fashion is mnogopredmetnoy ensemble.
Closet - a set of sets of clothing and complementary items needed for different occasions and seasons, that is the whole of one person's clothes and family.
Headsets - a set of objects, clothing for a specific purpose, usually made from the same material (hat, scarf, gloves).
Retro - style clothing and works of art, borrowed from the fashion of the first decades of our century.
Mini - dress length to mid thigh.
MIDI - length dress to mid-calf or Shin.
Blouson - jacket, closed bottom elastic, a drawstring, belt.
Spencer - a short jacket with the classical design of the collar and lapel. Length to the waist or slightly below.
Cardigan - jacket, collarless with angled cut sides.
The year - the shape of the skirt is fitted through the hips with a sharp extension of the downward wedges. Sometimes due to the introduction of on the bottom between the reliefs of the skirt insert of the wedges angled shape.
Kimono - sleeve telenowyny characteristic of the Japanese national dress.
Bat - telenowyny sleeve with the armhole that extends to the waist or hips.
PREPARATION OF THE TEMPLATES TO CUTTING
Before you begin to reveal design products from obsolete products is necessary to ensure rational pattern cutting to make patterns of the parts cut. Patterns are made without seam and lay them in such a way as to leave room for allowances and reserves to prepare the unit for the figure.
When cutting the designed product must comply with a number of rules that will ensure then a good quality tailoring.
Materials from natural and synthetic fibers before we will open should predicativity. Decamerone not subjected velvet, corduroy, plush, and materials from synthetic fibers and blends containing 60% synthetic fibers.
The material is carefully looked at from front and back sides. Observed defects (holes, spots) mark with chalk on the wrong side so that when cutting the defects did not get to the underlying details. If the material has a pattern, in one direction, then in the product it is all the parts should be the same. If the image is very large, it is necessary that it was located on the symmetrically paired parts to the middle of the back and shelves coincided with the middle of the picture.
PREPARATION FOR FITTING
the Transfer contour lines, smachivanie. For proper connection of the parts after cutting when smachivanie them to the first fitting all the contour lines identified in oblavka patterns on the same (upper) parts, must be transferred to another steam detail or other (symmetric) side of a part. For this pair of parts cut put together, right sides inside, and the whole (symmetric) bend in the midline also face inward.
The contour lines from one part to another are transferred in different ways. One of them is that both parts chop off one with the other pins along the chalk lines outline the upper part and then on the lower parts produce oblavka denote circuit patterns. After the pins are removed and the chalk lines on each part separately lay the thread a running stitch.
The length of the stitches on the straight sections of the contours can be 2-3 cm, notched, 1-2 cm long, rounded. 1 see Others, the most common way of translation of a contour mapping copy stitches-snares. After laying snares parts cut pushing, snares stretched and cut. It turns out the circuit in two equal parts. On a light dyed cotton fabrics transfer the part outline on the bottom layer of fabric is recommended to make using the cutter.
In addition to the General outline on the sleeve and the shelf needs to be scheduled checkpoints for connecting the sleeve with the armhole. In the middle parts of the front and back to navigate the thread. Smachivanie products are made exactly according to the planned lines of threads or snares. Before smachivanie parts of the product are folded face inward and shear pins according to the planned lines, the pins need to be put across the joint. During smachivaniya the product must remain on the table in order to avoid distortions or displacements.
The product is prepared for the fitting must be carefully virtuzoo.
Smachivanie bodice begin with smachivaniya tucks. Before smachivanie side tucks combine according to the planned lines, chop off the pins and smatyvay from narrow to wide a running stitch.
The length of stitches should be from 1,5 to 2,5 cm Shoulder seams of the back and shelves (Fig. 435 a) joint shear pins and smatyvay of the back side to make it easier to make them fit. Stitch length of 0.7-1 cm. the Side sections smatyvay with equal tension from the front. Stitch length 1.5-2 cm
When smachivanie side sections monitor the accuracy of the connection of the shelves and back at the beginning of the cut armholes. Sleeve smatyvay the seam is a running stitch length 1-1,5 see
In products from tissues, which are easily stretchable, it is recommended for the armhole, at a distance of 1.2 cm from the edge, lay the engine line or edge. The armhole of the front prostrachivajut from the shoulder cut down to 10-12 cm, and the openings of the back - in the most oblique cut for protection from stretching.
Votives sleeve from the sleeve to prevent stretching the armhole. When matiwane should be evenly distributed planting and combining the control notch.
Smachivanie skirts start with Darts, using the same techniques that you used for the bodice (Fig. 435 b). For smachivaniya side seams skirt is placed on the table seam to itself, holds the seam in several places with pins and smatyvay a running stitch length 1-1,5 cm
When smachivanie the side seams of the skirt must be especially good to ensure that could not fit on one side of the seam. On the left side seam at top waist and left 12 - 15 cm nesmetnye for processing fasteners.
When connecting the bodice to the skirt at the waist line first, chop off the center line and side seams, and then metiaut, combining the intended line and Darts on the skirt and bodice.
Time for a fitting. The work boils down to three main points:
the specification of planting articles in the figure;
the refinement of form and proportions of the product taking into account the individual characteristics of the figures;
refinement of the shape, size and placement and finishing of product parts.
To check the correctness of landing on the figure. (Fig. 43B a), prepared for fitting a product put on and carefully straighten. Then enclose and attach the shoulder pads. If the product zipper combine line mid-front and the waist line (in poluprilegayuschy and fitted the goods) and joint shear pins at the location of the hinges.
If the product has right fit, there should be no warps, creases. The front and back must be correct plummet, as evidenced by the vertical position of their means.
If there are deficiencies you need to first determine their causes, then eliminate.
Fitting women's products perform on the right side. First specify the balance of the product. Clarification recommended by pericoli shoulder seams, releasing or taking them at higher points of the neck. For this it is necessary to unpick the shoulder seam, straighten the sleeve, after specifying its shape, width, top and bottom. When perekopke shoulder seams should pay attention to correct fit of the front shoulder area in the region of neck, armhole, chest and back. It is also necessary to clarify the amount of solution and length of the lapel and the shoulder Darts.Then you should pay attention to the ratio of the width of the neck of the back and shelves (front) and the correct position of the shoulder seam. Tattoo shoulder seams should be overlaid seam, turning the cut edge of the backrest. Pins are injected across the joint, allowing you to focus properly fit in the desired location and provides an accurate determination of the direction of the seam.
In thin tissues an incorrect balance of the product can be corrected, killing the excess tissue at the back of the shelf and parallel to the shoulder seam, shoulder seams if you do not want to shift at neckline.
The precise balance by shifting the backrest and shelves at the side seam in the case where allowances at the shoulder cut were small to correct the deficiencies and improper determination of the allowance for free customized fit to the length of the back to the waist line with a large curvature of the back or convexity of the blades. If it is sufficient to specify the shape and volume of the product due to a side seam, its shear, and bending the cut edge back and sticking pins across the joint. Sometimes even in a well-balanced product is required to clarify the area of the top of the openings due to inaccurately recorded measurements - height, shoulder slash.In these cases, the shoulder seam also struts over the entire length, releasing stocks or taking the excess tissue, maintaining the correct direction of the seam from the armhole to the neckline.
On the figures with the deviation from the conditionally proportional, and also in cases of asymmetry of faces, there should be a clarification on both sides of the product.
The attached poluprilegayuschy and products outline the waistline in accordance with the proportions dictated by the shape and features of body shapes.
After clarification on the figure of the main structural sections begin to Refine the shape with the selected silhouette and tailored to the individual characteristics of the person.
The shape of the product to clarify, changing Darts, reliefs, identifying their correct direction and position, as well as the amount and level solutions. If you change only the direction of the bevel, or other decorative lines, without changing solutions, then the new position is better to mark with chalk, not rasprava sour cream seams.
For final refinement of the overall shape of the product it is recommended to re-pin the sleeve, pre-namaliu line vrachevanie sleeves, it is necessary to pay special attention to the correctness of plumb sleeve and the shape of the top part.
Finally specify the length of the piece and the sleeves, defining the correct proportions of the product.
The last stage of fitting is to determine the location, size and shape of the parts (collar, pockets, vents, cuffs, etc.).
If the shoulder seams were percayalah, before finding the form of a collar, Refine the neck. Collar pin on the line of the neck, Refine its shape, height stands, the degree of gap or fit to the neck.
The size, shape and location of individual parts specified in accordance with the style, features and proportions of the figure, subjecting all the details of the General form and character of the product, at the same time plan places the hinges.
When fitting suits first specify the lines and fit of the skirt, then the top of the kit. After fitting the product is removed from the figures, specify the chalk marks made during the fitting. According to the revised lines of the right side of the product along pins have a clear chalk line or lay a thread a running stitch. The chalk line (or lines) are laid along all the changed lines and the lines of the top part of the sleeves and the armholes, neck, waist, hem and sleeves.Then remove unnecessary stitches, pins, parts priorivet, chop symmetrical parts right side up and finally nameset all the details, and then carry a copy stitches at the symmetric detail.
Preparation for the second fitting. To the second fitting in the product must be processed all the Darts, raised lines, creases, Assembly, pintucks on the bodice, pockets, sides, collar, sleeves, Stacey side and shoulder seams, umetani sleeves. The second fitting is carried out in the same sequence as the first. The product is put on the figure to check the correctness of planting, width, length, correctness of lines, connection of the collar with the neck, the sleeves with the armhole (Fig. 436 b). If necessary, make the appropriate corrections to the product.