Finishing edging. Kant is a folded in half across the width of the trailing strip of finishing material. Put it between the two parts. Edging width of 2-3 mm. It is used as trim on dresses, jackets, etc. with Kant podernuta cord should first be carefully baste (Fig. 202). Then the cord will be lying in the bend of the oblique stripes. The upper edge of scribbled narrow line so that the width of the edging with a cord was no more than 2-3 mm (Fig. 203). The edges of the edging, you can pre-sew.
In order to prepare a bias strip for piping, cut a rectangular cloth folded one corner to make an equilateral triangle (Fig. 204). This triangle cut on the fold line, which serves further as a direction for cutting bias strips. To the width of the stripes was the same, it is measured with a ruler or pre-prepared stencil. Bias strips can be cut from remnants of fabric. To strip get the required length, you need to stitch a separate strip, folding the front side from the front. After grinding the seams rautureau.Despite the fact that the bands have an oblique direction, these seams are hardly noticeable as they are on the straight thread. Strip grind off without taking the threads, and then cut (Fig. 205). Oblique stripes of the fabric are of great importance in the manufacture of various products. They can take any form, so they are widely used in podlive or fringing the edges, especially slant.
Fan-shaped folds. Their stachivaya in the seam. To obtain such folds, have on a sheet of paper to outline an equilateral triangle. The size of the sides of the triangle should correspond to the width of the cut fabric, which will be laid in folds. For fan-shaped folds of the material cut out in a semicircle on the bottom slice. Triangle of paper lay along with the fabric in the fold so that their ends converge towards the top (Fig. 206). The paper is removed, and folds creases smatyvay. The first and last bends lay in the depth of the folds, then crease well iron.
Everything is easier if there is pattern. It was applied to the material so that the centre was located on a line
basis. Each bend - zametyvayut. Lay the paper along with the material in the indicated bends, folds, irons well, remove the pattern and fabric produisait again.
Pintucks and pleats. Sewn exactly in a straight line. The width of the folds should be the same. In those cases where the tucks and pleats are arranged in groups, it is necessary that the distance between them equal. To do this, use a scale ruler. The fold line folds mark with thread or chalk. In order not to mark the width of each fold, when zatrachivaniya they should use a special presser foot (Fig. 207).
Tucks is a very beautiful finish. They can be placed in a pattern, a line which are set on the material. Pintucks zametyvayut and prostrachivajut on the machine. A width of 1-3 mm (Fig. 208). On delicate fabrics pintucks and pleats are made by hand, small stitches. For this you need to use a fine needle.
Ruffles. A different width of the strip of material, gathered on one side and the same side primechanie to the product. Ruffles cut in a straight line. Strip for the ruffles cut out one and a half times longer than the finished ruffles. It is always necessary to take into account the quality of the material, as the thinner and smoother the fabric, the tighter it is going, and longer to cut out the strip. Edge of the strip of fabric can be repaired on the car boundary line, to twist, to turn over rolikam. Frill kill ordinary connective seam (Fig. 209). Stripe ruffles are harvested by hand or machine.
For ruffles pleated strip of fabric should be three times longer than the finished ruffles. Edge ruffles close up of the edge line or a spin on the machine. If you need to have a long sleeve ruffles are advised to take a wide strip of material and pave a running stitch several lines, thereby dividing it into parts. For each line nous to do a hemstitch and after pleating to cut it (Fig. 210). Strips pritachivajut simple connecting seam. If you seal the edge of the ruffle after pleating and ironed it, it will appear as shown in figure 211.On the corners of the folds superimposed on one another. The edge connecting seam overcast by hand or machine.
Shuttlecocks. Cut strips constituting a spiral, ring or oval, and pritachivajut to the product of the inner slices. Cut also straight strips, but in oblique thread, then pritachivajut side collect or often lay in small folds. Open edge can be laced in different ways. If you want to get a long shuttlecock, shuttlecocks separate grind off the usual seam and iron it to one side so that it lay in the depth of the tails and was not noticeable. Seam pritochki shuttlecock overcast. Shuttlecocks from bias strips of cloth it is better to collect one time. The product can be finished with one or several flounces.Flounce-collar can be decorated neckline.
In Fig. 212 shows a diagram cut the flounce in the form of a spiral or ring.
Ruffles. Represent a strip of material with sealed edges, cinched in the middle. Them sew on some detail above. Ruffles are performing as of material products, and various finishing materials. The edges are buried in different ways on the machine or by hand. Sew to the product on the car between the lines of the assemblies (Fig. 213). Especially the original zigzag ruffles. For this watchnow strip material or tape prostrachivajut a zig-zag line. The desired form is obtained by contraction of the filament (Fig. 214).
Shaped ruffle needs to be done very carefully, only then they will be beautiful. To Ruche a pleated strip of fabric lay the same fold 2-4 cm wide On the easy material they are fastened in the middle, on a thick - namachivajut and prostrachivajut. To Ruche of tulle lay a double fold or take 2-3 put together a band. Ruffles cannot be ironed. In order to give the ruff original form, both edges of each fold can be fastened with a few stitches (Fig. 215). Ruffles are the best thing to do but difficult to spill from the material.At the edges of the strip have to do the fringe, and the edges of each fold to seal. Before this is done, Ruche should sew on the dress.