MACHINE STITCHES AND THEIR PURPOSE
In purpose machine stitches are divided into connective, edge and decorative finishing.
The main types of joints are: bridging, oblacno, topstitched, nastroni, bill of lading, in the castle seam, butt seam, lapped.
Bridging the seam (Fig. 456 a, b, C) is basic in the manufacture of clothing and is performed using one thread of the connecting lines. Bridging the seam width (the distance from the edge of the tissue slices to the line of lines) depend on the properties of the fabric and destination of the seam. Bridging the seam is performed on the edge (Fig. 456 a), vrazalic (Fig. 456 b) and usautoco (Fig. 456).
For the formation of the seam bridging the two parts are folded, right sides inside, stack the slices and lay the line. Bridging the seam can be made without landing, and landing one of the sewn edges of the parts. When performing bridging weld to fit on the top part and the lower part is slightly bent, and hold the top more free. For landing details, located below the upper part slightly bent, and the lower one serves freely under the presser foot of the machine.
О6тачной seam (Fig. 456 g, d) is a variation of the bridging seam. It is used when connecting the upper collar with the lower of podborta with shelves, parts, valves, straps, cuffs, etc. When performing oblasnogo weld the two parts fold right sides inwards and join with bridging stitch. Then the parts are turned on the front side, straighten seams and spawn with the formation of Kant or of its main parts. Oblasnogo seam width depends on the workpiece. When grinding the sides and collar of easypayday tissue oblasnogo seam width is 0.3-0.5 cm, and crumbling-0,4-0,7 cm.When grinding parts such as strap, valve, seal weld width is in the range of 0.5-0.7 see
Topstitched seam (Fig. 456 g) is a variation of the bridging seam. It is running with three yarn lines: one of them is connecting, the other two laid along the middle line of the seam, - joint finishing. As follows: the two parts are folded, right sides inside, stack the slices and connect the bridging seam. Then seam rautureau or straighten, the face lay at an equal distance on either side of the weld grinding parts finishing line.
Nastroni seam (Fig. 457 a, 6) is applied to bonding parts in the manufacture of clothing. It is performed using two lines: a connection that must be laid first, and the connecting-finishing - nastroje. Nastronie seams are divided into two types: with both open sections (Fig.457 a) and with one open cut (Fig. 457 6).
When you run nastroennogo seam with open sections of the two parts of the fold, right sides inside, stack the slices and grind off bridging seam. Then iron the seam and the front side lay the finishing line. When you run nastroennogo seam closed and slice one open part of the fold, right sides inside, arranging them so that the cut lower parts were cut for the top the width of the finishing stitches. Details grind off from the top 0.5-0.7 cm from the slice. Then iron the seam and the front side lay the finishing line.The width of the finishing stitches should be slightly greater than the width of the bridging seam to cut the top part after laying the finishing line was closed by her.
3апошивочный seam used in the manufacture of a garment without a lining of cotton and linen fabrics (Fig. 458). As nastroni seam, it is done by using two lines: connecting and connecting and finishing, but its structure differs from the structure nastroennogo seam. Here the sections of the two parts are mutually invested in them and bends are closed.
When you perform a lapped seam between two parts fold right sides inwards, releasing the lower part. Grind off the parts so that the width of the seam of the top part was equal to 0.4-0.6 cm, and the lower of 1.0-1.4 cm, Then the details straightened out the seam allowances folded to the side parts at the top, cut a large seam allowance to buckle inside 0.3-0.5 cm and the inside paving of the second line. Line have a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the bent edge. The width of the lapped seam usually equal to 0.7-1.0, see
the Seam in the castle (Fig. 459) by construction, similar to the lapped, but both lines are connecting and finishing and are visible from both sides. The seam in the castle, as lapped, mainly used in clothes and in jewelry unlined.
Patch seam (Fig. 460 a, b) is performed using one line and may be with open cuts or with one open and one bent cut, patch seam with exposed slices (Fig. 460 a) performed single-line stitching. For topstitching one detail is applied to the other, and the amount of time one part to another is equal to 1, see This seam is used for joining the component parts of the seals. When performing SMD seam closed with one cut (Fig. 460 b) edge of the top part of iron or zametyvayut and priorivet, and the lower part is applied to the chalk line.Bent edge of the upper parts are placed on the chalk line and prostrachivajut line at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from it.
For processing the edges of the parts and to protect the slices from crumbling apply regional seams. Varieties of the edge stitches are the stitches itagiba, otechnye and edging
Seam of itagiba used for the treatment of the edges of sides, bottom, dresses, skirts, etc. Such joints can be open (Fig. 461) and closed sections (Fig. 462). The seams itagiba with open cut used for zatrachivaniya bottom, the inner edges of podborov. When performing his cut details inside bends of 0.7-1.0 cm and zastrugivajut. The line is laid at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold.
The seams itagiba with a shut cut used for zatrachivaniya the bottom of the product, the bottom of the lining, nizkov sleeves, etc. When the joint itagiba the cut of the part that bends twice and then pave the line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the inner fold, stitching three layers of fabric.
Edging seam (Fig. 463) used in the processing of cut parts products unlined and loose fabrics. The seam is treated with the inner edge of podborov, hem, armholes, etc. For the edging of the cut out fabric cut out oblique or transverse stripes with a width of 2-3 cm Cut strip is applied to the workpiece by face-to-face, combining slices, and pritachivajut seam with the width 0,3-0,5 cm In this strip should be slightly stretched. Then a strip of round cut of the workpiece and the front side lay a second line to the seam primaqiune strips.Sometimes edging strip fold double.
Decorative stitches are used for the decoration of products. To this group of joints are: joints with piping, Princess seams, wylacznie, etc.
Stitches with piping for finish products are often of finishing fabrics of different color, and sometimes the quality from the fabric product. Kant operates with cord or without it. To complete the edging with a cord, take a strip of cloth width of 1.0-2.0 cm long and fold it along the length with wrong side inside, put inside and a cord of the desired thickness. Then place the strip on the front side details, combining slices of the part and strips, primetyvajut and pritachivajut. Then take the second item and put it with the first, right sides inside, and lay the line on the earlier.Kant without cord pritachivajut to detail is similar, with the only difference that the strip of cloth is not laid cord.
Princess seams, as the seams with piping, used in women's and children's products for finishing. Raised seams represent the convex lines on the parts (shelves, yoke, pockets, sleeves, etc.) and are divided into zastrocky (Fig. 464), and Princess seams with a cord (Fig. 465). Perform Princess seams on the front side and on the reverse.
To perform zastrocky the Princess seams on the front side of the fabric on it with the help of the auxiliary patterns is applied to the suture line. On the planned line item bend, folding it inside-out inside, and prostrachivajut seam width of 0.2-0.5 cm from the fold. The seam straightened out priorivet or iron from the reverse side, depending on the model.
To complete the Princess seams with cord from the inside parts enclose a strip of cloth and on the front side along the planned line of paving line. Then, between the part and the strip of cloth put the cord of the required width and thickness and zastrugivajut it tightly around the item.
Wylacznie seams. To perform wytycznych seams from the inside of the part using the sub-patterns is applied to the chalk line. The detail of the bend inside out, take a strip of cloth, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp, and enclose it under the item and prostrachivajut together. Joint width depends on the model. Then iron the seams, by bending them in the direction as indicated by the model, and scribbled on the planned lines.
The TERMS USED TO describe the WORKS IN MACHINING
Smachivanie - temporary connection thread two approximately equal parts a running stitch.
Namachivaya connection of the two parts superimposed one on another, a running stitches.
Matiwane connection with the landing of the two parts of the oval circuits of a running stitch.
Primitivna connection threads of small parts with large.
3аметывание - securing the edge a running stitch.
The inflorescence emerge - a temporary securing thread obrechennyh the edges of the parts to save to give them a specific shape.
Buttonhole - thread fastening of the cut parts to prevent fraying.
Suturing - attaching the bent edges of a part of concealed stitches.
Sewing - attaching one part or hardware to another.
Wystawianie connection of two or more parts are overlaid, the hidden stitches in certain areas, or all over the surface.
Laying copy of the stitch - transferring lines from one part to another and from one part of the product to the other stitches temporary copy destination.
Bridging - connect two or more parts, approximately equal in magnitude.
Primaqiune connection is a constant line of different purpose and size of items.
Grinding connection of the two parts edge machine stitch and then beverlylinneam on the front side.
Setting a connection of the two parts of the oval contour.
Nastraivanie - consolidation of allowances seam or pleats machine stitching.
Rasstraivaj - consolidation of allowances of a seam or crease on both sides of machine stitching.
3астрачивание - fastening bent edges of a part, pleats, tucks, pintucks, machine stitching.
Pretrazivanje - laying the finishing stitches on the edge of a part.
Okantovany - processing of cut parts with a strip of material, braid for decoration or to protect it from fraying.
Prutivka - reducing the thickness of the seam, fold or edge of the part.
Razoruzhenie - fold in the seam allowances or folds on both sides and securing them in this position by means of the Ironing processing.
3аутюживание - laying of seam allowances or hem, edge parts on one side and securing them in this position by means of the Ironing processing.
Sutivana - reducing the edges or parts of the product to obtain a convex shape, remove slack and unnecessary bulges in some areas.
Pulling the extension edge to the desired shape.
Tutuianu - remove from surfaces of folds, samini, creases, etc.
Steam - removal of traces of iron in the form of shiny spots. Produced from the front side very hot iron through damp cloth.
Dekotirovaniem - wet-heat processing of the material to prevent further shrinkage.