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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Blouse with cap sleeves and undercut

The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 43) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat waist  38 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 Breast height  27
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  10
Front length to the waist line  43    


 A preliminary calculation. Before proceeding to the construction drawing of the pattern of this blouse, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the blouse at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 + 4 = 52 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm (48 : 4 - 1 = 11 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the blouse at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (52 - 19,5 - 11 = 21.5 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 20 cm, and put points A and N (Fig. 44, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (19.5 cm on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. Through the point A down, spend a vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
Through the point A hold up the vertical line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm 
Point A, A and connect A smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line, which (from the point A) lay measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P.
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line an. The point of intersection represent G. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G. From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the bottom line designated by the letter N. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. Through the points P A and hold the right line of arbitrary length. From the point P this line to the right lay the measure of the length of the sleeves (10 cm) and put a point P. From the point P radius equal PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P (10 : 4 = 2.5 cm). Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G down the line GN lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 8 + 1 = 7, see
From the point G hold right horizontal line, which lay 3.5 cm, and put a point G. From the point H to the line GG down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point G. Point G G and connect with a straight line. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 2.5 cm and put a point P. Then a smooth line connecting the dots P, P and G. 

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). From the point T right spend a horizontal line to the line GN, the point of intersection with this line indicate T. 
From the point T left waist lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. Point T G and connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 20 cm, and put the points In and N (Fig. 44, b). 
VN = 43 + 20 = 63 cm
Through the points and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a point G. 
VG = 48 : 2 + 3 = 27 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm). For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). 
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 Width shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front 21.5 cm (preliminary calculation) and put a point A. From the point A lowered perpendicular to the line of the chest, the point of intersection represent G. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) minus 2 cm is the width of the openings of the back (drawing back) and put a point G. 
GG = 11 - 2 = 9 cm 
From point G lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 The cut of the neck. From a point In the left line WE lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a dot B. 
W = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the line BH lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point B and W connect the dotted line, cut VV divided in half, the point of division is connected to the point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point B, V and W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on the line lay GG measure the distance between the highest points of the breast (9.5 cm) and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line up to intersection with the line VA, the point of intersection represent V. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut to the line of Darts. From the point V down postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V and B connect by a straight line. 
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see 
For a hunched figure lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
Through the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P. 
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 

 Line tuck. Point G P and connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G lay cut VG, and put a point P. 

 Shoulder cut top cut sleeves. Point P connect a straight line with a point P and continue this line to the left. From the point P on this line lay the measure of the length of the sleeves (10 cm) and put a point P. From the point P radius equal PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P (10 : 4 = 2.5 cm). Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G right on the line GG lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 8 + 1 = 7, see 
From point G left on a horizontal line delay value of the segment GH with a drawing of the back and put a point G. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Point P, 1, G connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line shelves. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). From the point G down on a vertical line lay a distance equal to GT (drawing back), and put a point T. Point T and T connect a smooth line. 
From the point T right at the waist lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. Point T G and connect with a straight line. 

 The calculation of the width of the blouse at the hips. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the amount of poluobhvat hips, obtained during the building of the drawing patterns of the back and shelves. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 21,5 - 30,5 = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 44, a). From the point N right lay 1.5 cm and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half NT from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N. 

 Side cut shelves (see Fig. 44, b). From the point N lay to the left of 1.5 cm and put a point N. Point N connect the dotted line with a dot T and smooth from N. Cut TN divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N. 

 Draw Darts at the waist , see Fig. 53 in the first article of the section "Dresses"

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be translated in the lateral cut (darted, see "Modeling"). Then pattern pieces laid on fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines in the drawing direction of the grain lines of the fabric. Cutting produce with a seam (Fig. 45). 

 Sewing. Before you start smachivanie blouse, you must undercut the sleeves on the front and the back well neaten that the slices do not crumble. 
Smatyvay tuck. After that, the front and the back fold right sides inwards and smatyvay shoulder sections and sleeve sections on the line of the seam.
Chop and smatyvay the side sections of the shelves and backs, and setiati their starting 0.5 cm below the point G (see Fig. 44) on the line of the seam allowance. Cut backs on line GG frequent stitches smatyvay with cut shelf line GG. And cut backs on line GG frequent stitches smatyvay with cut shelf line GG and do a fitting. When fitting, care must be taken that the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam has been displaced forwards or backwards.
After correcting all the flaws start to sewing blouses. Sew Darts in, disperse and rautureau them. Sew shoulder and side sections, the seams rautureau and overcast. 
Undercut sleeve begin to stitch on the basting from podraza blouses, in the corner of the foot of the machine is raised, leaving the needle in the fabric and a blouse so that it is easy to scribble the second part of podraza. Threads at the beginning and at the end of the line is fixed.
You must ensure that corners were not of the folds, for this the width of the bead in the corners, reduce to 0.1 - 0.2 cm For strength in the corners, you can put in grinding a piece of tissue. 
Iron the seam to one side. From the wrong side of the line parts to protect the fabric from fraying you can flash again manual stitches of thread out of fabric articles, or other threads, well-chosen color. The same can be done from the front side.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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