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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Jacket semi-fitted silhouette with sleeves polarella


The drawing of the pattern of the jacket (Fig. 135) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 Jacket length  63
Poluobhvat hips  53 Sleeve length  58
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Front length to the waist line  43    


Before the creation of the drawing pattern, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the jacket at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm (48 + 6 = 54 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back plus 1.8 cm (18 + 1,8 = 19.8 cm). 

 The width of openings equal to 1/4 of the measure poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 4 + 2 = 14 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the jacket at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (54 - 19,8 - 14 = 20,2 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of a sheet of paper at a distance of 5 cm from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (63 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 136). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Length to the hip line. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 19.8 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 14 cm). Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The level of convexity of the blades. From point A down the line an lay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). Using the right point spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point A1. 

 The middle line of the back. From point A to the right by the line AA1 delay 0.8 cm (hunched figures lay 1.3 cm) and put a point A0. From the point T to the right on a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put the point T1. Points A0 and connect a smooth line. From the point y through the point T1 is carried out in a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the hips and bottom denote B1 and D1. The waistline, hips and bottom is carried out perpendicular to the middle line of the back УН1. 

 Line of the neck backless. From the point A0 to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3.
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck should be increased by 0.5 cm 
From point A3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divided in half, the point A3 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5, see 
Points A4, A5, A0, connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 3.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 2.5 cm for high-shoulders, 4,5 - sloping shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm for planting and put a point P1 (of 13.5 + 1 = 14.5 cm). 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm. 
For a hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance of PG and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 = 20,5 : 3 = 6,8 cm 
Angle П2ГГ3 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2 cm, and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 14 : 10 + 2 = 3.4 cm 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G3. 

 The reduction of the length of the shoulder cut. From the point P1 to the left at the shoulder cut lay 4 cm and put a point P4. 
Points P4 and P2 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the dividing point to the left upon the earth perpendicular to this line, which postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. The point P4 1, P2, A3, G3 connect a smooth line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G3 to down spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with underline denote H2. From the point D2 to the right bottom line aside an amount equal to НН1 segment and put a point H3. Point N3 G3 and connect a straight line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. 

 Construction drawing patterns back half of a sleeve. From the point A1 to the right of line A1A2 lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point A6. 
А1А6 = A1A2 : 3 = 14 : 3 = 4,7 cm
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 4 cm and put a point G4. 
Г2Г4 = 48 : 4 - 4 = 8 see 
Point A6 connect the dotted line with the point G4 and continue the line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Points P1 and G4 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 at the line delay value of a segment of PG minus 1.5 cm and put the point O. 
П1О = PG - 1,5 = 20,5 - 1,5 = 19 cm
The dotted line between points P1 and divide in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to this line, on which lay 2 cm and put a point O1. From points P4 and P1 restore the perpendiculars to the segment П4П1, which lay at 0.7 cm and put the points O2 and O3. Points O2, O3, O1, connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point of O2 down the line continuation А6Г4 lay scoop sleeve length plus 4 cm and put a point O4 (58 + 4 = 62 cm). 

 The width of the sleeve hem. Line the bottom of the sleeves is carried out through the point O4 is perpendicular to the line А6О4. From the point O4 on this line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (14 cm) and put a point O5. From the point O5 is lowered perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point A6. Point O6 and O4 connect a smooth line. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of А6О4. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point 1 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П2, where from point 1 delay 0.5 cm, and put a point O7. From the point P2 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П2, which from the point P2 lay 1.3 cm, and put a point A8. From point A8 make a notch on the line widths of the openings with a radius equal П2Г3 plus 0.5 cm (П2Г3 measured in a straight line) and put a point E9. The points A9 and A8 connect the dotted line, divide it in half, from the dividing point to the right bring them up to this line the perpendicular lay on it of 1.5 cm and put a point A10. Point O2, P4, A7, A8, A10, A9 connect a smooth line.The points A9 and A6 connect the dotted line.

 The line of the elbow. From a point O3 on down the line sleeves scoop lay-length sleeves to the elbow, plus 1.5 cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). The line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of А6О4. The point of intersection with a dotted line L1 denotes О9О6. The line LL1 continue to the left by 1 cm and put a point L2. Point A9, A2, A6, connect a smooth line. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket plus 4 - 5 cm (63 + 5 = 68 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 137). Through points A and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm and put a point G. 
AG = 48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 : 2 + 5 = 29 cm). 
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the front. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 20,2 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 14 cm). From points A1 and A2 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the chest. The point of intersection with the line of the chest represent G1 and G2. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. The distance between the points G1 and G2 divide in half and put a point G3. From point G3 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection denoted H1.

 The curved neckline of the front. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7 cm 
From point A down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point A4. 
АА4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see 
Points A3 and A4 connect the dotted line, divide А3А4 cut in half, from point A through point division is carried out by a dotted line, at which point A delay of 1/3 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.6 cm, and put a point A5. 
АА5 = 18 : 3 + 1,6 = 7,6 cm
Points A3, A5, and A4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal to the measure of the center of the chest plus 1 cm, and put a point G4 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G4 spend a vertical line to the intersection of the line AA1, the point of intersection designated by the letter A6. 

 The height of the chest. From the point A6 lay down the measure of the height of your chest plus 1 cm and put a point G5 (27 + 1 = 28 cm). 

 The line of the shoulder cut line tuck. From the point A6 down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A7. Points A7 and A3 connect in a straight line.
From the point G1 up lines Г1А1 lay cut the amount of GHG (drawing back, see Fig. 136) minus 1 cm and put a point P. 
Г1П = GHG - 1 = of 20.5 - 1 = 19.5 cm 
Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line on which the point P lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points A1 and A7 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length minus the distance between the points A7 and A3, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2. 
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3,5 - 0,3 = 9,7 cm
From point G5 through the point P2 draw the line. On the continuation of this line (point upward from the G5) lay the cut is equal to the right side of the tuck, and put a point P3. Points P3 and P1 connect the dotted line. 

 The reduction of the length of the shoulder cut. From the point P1 to the right of the line П1П3 lay 4 cm and put a point P4 (П1П4 = 4 cm). 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G1 up lines Г1А1 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points P5 and P4 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half. From the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. Angle Г3Г1Г5 divide in half, from the point G1 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1 cm and put a point P6. 
Г1П6 = (14 : 10) + 1 = 2,4 see 
Point P4, 1, P5, P6, G3 connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line shelves. From the point G3 down the line Г3Н1 delay value of the segment Г3Т2 with a drawing of the back and put the point T. From the point And lay down the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put the point T1 (43 + 1 = 44 cm). Points T and T1 connect by a straight line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From points T and T1 down the line Г3Н1 and an lay the amount of cut Т2Б2 with a drawing of the back and put points B and B1. Points B and B1 connect by a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. From point B down the line Г3Н1 delay value of the segment Б2Н3 with a drawing of the back and put a point of H2. Points H2 and H connect with a straight line.

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at the waist also with allowance for free customized fit: (48 + 6) - (38 + 6) = 10 see 
the Value of the solution front tuck equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0.3 = 3 cm). The value of the solution side tuck equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0.4 = 4 cm). The amount of solution back 'tuck equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0.3 = 3 cm). 

 The calculation of the width of the jacket at the hips. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 - 4cm to free fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the jacket is obtained when creating drawings backrest and shelves between the points B1 and B2 on the back and B and B1 on the shelf. The result is distributed equally between the front and back: 53 + 4 = 57 cm; 57 - 26,8 (drawing back) - 27,2 (drawing shelves) = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm 

 Clearance side cut backless (see Fig. 136). From the point T2 to the left on the waist line delaying half of the solution side tuck (4 : 2 = 2 cm) and put a point T3. Point T3 G3 and connect a straight line. From the point B2 to the right on the continuation of the line Б1Б2 lay 1.5 cm and put a point B3. The points B3 and T3 connect the dotted line, divide it in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connected to the points of T3 and B3 a smooth line. From point B3 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the bottom line is denoted H4. 

 Making Darts on the back. The distance between the points G, G1 divided in half, the point of division represent the G5. Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line Б1Б3. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and hips represent the T4 and B4. From the point T4 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm) and put the points T5 and T6. From the point B4 up on a vertical line lay 2 cm and put point 2. Point 2 connect smooth lines with points T5 and T6. Points T5 and T6 connect the straight lines with Tocco G5. 

 Design side cut shelves (see Fig. 137). From the point T to the right of the line ТТ1 lay one half of the solution side tuck (4 : 2 = 2 cm) and put a point T2. Points T2 and T3 connect by a straight line. From point B to the left by the continuation of the line B1B lay 1.5 cm and put a point B2 Point B2 and T2 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connected with points T2 and B2 in a smooth line. From point B2 drop the perpendicular on the bottom line, the point of intersection with the bottom line is denoted H3. 

 The design of the tuck on the shelf. Through the point G5 hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the line Б2Б1. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and hips represent the T3 and B3. From the point T3 to the left and right waist lay on the half depth front tuck (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm) and put the points T4 and T5. From the point G5 down vertical lay lines 5 cm and put the point G7. From the point B3 on the vertical up line lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point B4. Point B4 combine smooth lines with points T4 and T5. Points T4 and T5 connect straight lines from point G7. 

 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point A1 to the left of the line A1A2 lay 2/3 of the width of the openings minus 1 cm and put a point A8. 
А1А8 = 14 : 3 x 2 - 1 = 8,4 cm 
From the point G1 to the left of the line lay 2/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G6. 
Г1Г6 = 14 : 3 x 8 = 9,4 see 
Points A8 and G6 connect the dotted line and continue this line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Points P1 and G6 connect the dotted line. From point P1 down on the dotted line delay value of the segment П1О with a drawing of the back and put a point O. the Dotted line between the points P1, divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point O1. From point P4, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm and put a point O2. Point O2, P1, O1, connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point of O2 down the middle cut the sleeves lay scoop sleeve length plus 4 cm and put a point O3. 

 The width of the sleeve hem. The line width of the sleeves is carried out through a point O3 is perpendicular to the line А8О3. From the point O3 along this line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (14 cm) and put a point O4. The distance between the points O3 and O4 are divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 see the resulting point connected to the points O3 and O4 a smooth line. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of А8О3. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point 1 to the right raise up perpendicular to the line П4П5, which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O5. From the point P5 to the right raise up perpendicular to this line, which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A6. From the point A6, make a notch on the line width of the sleeve under the armhole with a radius equal П5Г3 plus 0.5 cm (П5Г3 measured in a straight line) and put a point O7. Points A6 and A7 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the dividing point down upon the earth perpendicular to the line О6О7, which lay 1.7 cm, and put a point A8. Point O2, O5, O6, A8, A7, connect a smooth line.The point O7 and O4 connect the dotted line.

 The line of the elbow. From point P1 down the middle cut sleeve scoop lay-length sleeves to the elbow, plus 1.5 cm and put a point L (32 + 1,5 = 33.5 cm). The line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of А8О3. The point of intersection of this line with a dotted denoted by the letter L1. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. From the point L1 to the left of the line postpone 1 cm and put a point L2. Point O4, O7 L2 and connect a smooth line. 

 Construction of the line side , see Fig. 134, drawing the collar in Fig. 132.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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