The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 63) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing patterns of such dresses, you need to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the dress at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm for loose fit (48 + 5 = 53 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 4 + 1 = 13 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the dress minus the width of back and width of the armhole (53 - 19,5 - 13 = 20.5 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (104 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 64, a). 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 19.5 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A1. Through the point A1 down, spend a vertical line. 

 The cut of the neck. From point A to the right by the line AA1 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increases at 0.5 cm From point A3 up raise up perpendicular on which from the point A3 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm, 
the Points A4, A5 and connect a smooth line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line. From the point A4 along this line lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2.0 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P1 (13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15.6 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut backless , see "Modeling". 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG= 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line EN, the intersection point denoted G1. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2 (13 : 2 = 6.5 cm).
Through point G2 spend a vertical line to the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1.

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1, the point of intersection denoted T1. 

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1, the intersection point denoted B1. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. Line А4П continue to the right. From the point P1 on this line lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P2. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П2, conduct the arc. From the point A2 down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves plus 5 cm and put a point P3 (58 : 4 + 5 = 19.5 cm). Point P3 connect a smooth line with the point P1. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. From point P3 to the left to raise up perpendicular line П1П3, which from the point P3 lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat wrist plus 3 to 4 cm and put a point P4 (8 + 3 = 11 cm). 

 The waist line. From the point T1 to the left of the line Т1Т lay 2.5 cm and put a point T2. Points T2 and G2 connect the dotted line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G3. From the point G2 down along the dotted line lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point G4 (48 : 8 = 6 cm). Points G3 and G4 connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. The point G4 and P4 connect the dotted line. From a point G3 on the line Г4П4 make the notch radius equal to 15 cm, and put a point G5. Points G3 and G5 connect with a straight line. Points P4 and G5 and connect with a straight line.

 The line of the elbow tuck. From the point P1 at the line П1П3 delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). 
From point L to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line П1П3. The point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line Г4П4 denote L1. From the point L1 to the left and right of the line Г4П4 delay of 0.5 - 0.8 cm and dots L2 and L3. 
From the point L1 up lines LL1 lay 6 cm and put the point L4. Point L4 connect the straight lines with points L2 and L3. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length plus 5 cm and put the points In and N (104 + 5 = 109 cm). Through the points In N to the left and spend a horizontal line (Fig. 65). 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point G. 
VG = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm).
Through the point G to the left is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front 20.5 cm (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2. Through the point A2 is carried out a vertical line to the intersection with the horizontal line going from point G. the Point of intersection denoted G1. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2 (13 : 2 = 6.5 cm). Through point G2 down, spend a vertical line, the intersection of it with the underline denote H1.

 The waist line the shelves. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). From the point G2 down the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment Г2Т1 with a drawing of the back and put the point T1. The points T1 and T connect a smooth line. 

 Line of the hips. From points T and T1 lay down 1/2 the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put point B and B1 (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Points B and B1 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the dress. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Б1Н1 with a drawing of the back and put a point of H2. The points N2 and N, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put the point B1. 
BB1 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B2. 
BB2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Points B1 and B2 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В1В2, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3.
ВВ3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Points B1, B3 and B2 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay measure the distance between the protruding points of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G3. Through the point G3 hold up a vertical line, the point of its intersection with a line denote BA2 B4. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B4 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G4. 

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point B4 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point B5. Points B5 and B1 connect by a straight line. From the point G1 up lines Г1А2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm and put the point P. 
Г1П = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm).
Through the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points P1 and B5 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В5В1, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2. 
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 

 Line of upper tuck. The point G4 and P2 connect the straight line from a point G4 on this line lay the cut is equal to the segment В5Г4, and put a point P3. 

 The shoulder cut and the upper cut sleeve. Point P3 is connected to the point P1 and continue this line to the left. From the point P1 on this line lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P4. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П4, conduct the arc. From point P4, in an arc down lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P5 (58 : 4 = 14.5 cm). Point P5 a smooth line connecting point P1. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. From the point P5 to the right raise up perpendicular to the line П5П1 which lay 1/2 of the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 3cm, and put a point P6 (П5П6 = 6 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm). 

 The waist line. From the point T1 to the right of the line ТТ1 lay 2.5 cm and put a point T2. Points T2 and G2 connect the dotted line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G5. From the point G2 down along the dotted line lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point G6 (48 : 8 = 6 cm). Point G5 and G6 connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. Point G6 and L6 connect the auxiliary straight line. From point G5 on the line Г6П6 make the notch radius equal to 15 cm, and put a point G7. Point G7 connect a straight line from point G5. From G6 point down the line Г6П6 lay cut Г4П4 (drawing back) minus the value of the solution of the elbow tuck and put a point A7. Points P7 and G7 connect with a straight line. Points P7 and P5 connect a smooth line. 

 The expansion of the dress at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit. From this sum is subtracted the distance obtained when constructing the drawing, shelves and back along the line ББ2. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 26 - 27 = 2 cm; 2 : 2 = 1 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 64, a). From the point B1 to the right postpone 1 cm and put a point B2. Points B2 and T2 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half Б2Т2 from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T2 and B2. Through the point B2 is carried out a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H2. 

 Side cut shelves (see Fig. 65). From the point B1 to the left postpone 1 cm and put a point B2. Points T2 and B2 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half Т2Б2 from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T2 and B2. Through the point B2 is carried out a vertical line, the point of its intersection with the line of the bottom of the dress denoted H3. Points H3 and H2 connect a smooth line. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist line and their construction , see here. 

 Draw a pattern of wedge-shaped gussets. Spend two mutually perpendicular lines. The point of intersection of these lines denoted by the letter G (see Fig. 64, b). From the point G to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (see preliminary calculation) minus 2 cm and put points G1 and G2. 
ГГ1 = ГГ2 = 13 : 2 - 2 = 4.5 cm.
From the points G1 and G2 on the vertical lines at the top make the notches with a radius equal to the segment Г3Г4 (drawing back), and put a point G3. From the points G1 and G2 on the vertical line down the notches with a radius equal to the segment Г3Г5 (drawing back), and put a point G4. Points G1, G3, G2, G4 and G1 connect straight lines. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces are placed on the fabric so that the direction of the grain lines on the drawing coincide with the direction of the grain lines on the fabric. Cut out detail with consideration of the seam. The value of the allowances is shown in Fig. 66.
The correct seam allowance, as well as from the right in the drawing of the cutting pattern depends on the appearance of the product. If the bottom of the sleeves sew the same fabric, you need to give allowance to the bottom of the sleeve 4 cm; if the cuff is treated with a facing, the allowance must be equal to 1 cm 

 Sewing. For the best fit the upper section of the front halves of the sleeves are pulled (in the drawing Fig. 65 this place is shown by hachures). It is necessary to calculate the details of the front face inside and pull the upper section of the sleeve with the iron, first on the upper layer of fabric, then on the bottom. The upper section of the sleeve on the back, if necessary, also you can pull, but only slightly, and only after fitting.
Before you sweep dress, you must undercut under sleeve on the shelf and the back to neaten, to slices it not showered. On the shoulder cut of the back, the lower cut of the sleeves and the shelf smatyvay tuck. After that the back and front fold right sides inwards and smatyvay at the shoulder sections and sleeve sections. Fold the front and back of the line undercuts. From the end of the undercut shear and smatyvay the lower sections of the sleeves front and back. Umatyvaet gusset.
When fitting it is necessary to ensure that the shoulder seam of the sleeve has been displaced forwards or backwards. After correcting all deficiencies start sewing dresses. Tuck treated (see treatment tucks in the section "Modeling"). Sew shoulder seams, the upper and lower sections of the sleeves and the side sections. Seams rautureau and overcast.
The gusset stachivaya in the undercut after Stacey and resutured seams of sleeves and side seams. The gusset overcast. The edge of the gusset with the undercut shear off the shelves and backs, right sides inside, pin the gusset and bulavochka umatyvaet its frequent stitches in the corners of the undercut can be twice promette. 
Stachivaya the gusset from the side of the shelves so that the corners of the seam allowances were minimal in order to avoid wrinkles; for strength at the corners can be put under place a piece of cloth. Seam gussets disperse on both sides and rautureau.
To protect the fabric from fraying in the corners of the gusset is sewn once again, hand stitch thread, well-chosen color. Also, only very carefully, it is possible to stitch around the gusset and from the front side.