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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Shift dress with cap sleeves and gusset


The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 61) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat hips  53 Shoulder length  13,5
Back length to the waist line  38 The length of the dress  104
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  18


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing patterns of such dresses, you need to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the dress at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm for loose fit (48 + 5 = 53 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm).

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest (48 : 4 = 12 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the dress at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the openings (53 - 19,5 - 12 = 21,5). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (104 cm) and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 62, a). 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 19.5 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A. Through the point A spend a vertical line down. 

 The cut of the neck. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point E.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra cut A increase of 0.5 cm Through the point A up spend a vertical line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm 
Point A, A and connect a smooth line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down the vertical line delay of 0.5 cm for the high shoulders, 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 2.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P or using two measurements: the height of the oblique shoulder and arm length (see basic measurements). 
A through point P draw a line which (from the point A) lay measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the openings. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line EN, the point of intersection represent G. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (12 : 2 = 6 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (at = 38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line GUN and put a point T. 

 The hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line GUN and put a point B. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. Line UP continue to the right. From the point P this line to the right lay the measure of the length of the sleeve (18 cm) and put a point P. 
From the point P radius PP hold an arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements sleeve length plus 1 cm and put a point P (18 : 4 + 1 = 5.5 cm). Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line. From the point T the left on line TT lay 2 cm and put a point T. 
Point T and G direct connect auxiliary line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G down the line GT lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 8 - 1 = 5 see 
Point G and G join with a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line lay 1 see the resulting point, connect a smooth line with points G and P. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length plus 5 - 7 cm, and put the points In and N (Fig. 62, b). 
From the points In N to the left and hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest and put the point G. 
VG = 48 : 2 = 24 cm 
From point G to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 Width shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (21.5 cm on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. From the point I lowered down the perpendicular to the intersection with the line of the chest, the point of intersection designated by the letter G. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (12 : 2 = 6 cm). 
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a dot B. 
W = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point B and W connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7 see 

 the center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G. 
Through the point G hold up a vertical line, the point of its intersection with a line WE indicate W. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point V down postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V and B connect by a straight line. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 4 = 16 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 4 a + 3.5 = 15.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm). 
From the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point P. 
PP = 48 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,3 see 
the Point P connect the dotted line with a dot W. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P.
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 

 Line of upper tuck. Point G P and connect with a straight line. From the point G on this line lay cut, 
is equal to the right side of the tuck WG, and put a point P. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be translated into a lateral cut. (Translation tucks, see Fig. 195 in the section "Simulation".) 

 Shoulder cut top cut sleeves. Point P connect a straight line with a point P and continue this line to the left. From the point P on this line lay the measure of the length of the sleeve (18 cm) and put a point P.
From the point P with a radius equal to the segment PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P (18 : 4 = 4.5 cm). Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line shelves. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure of the length of the shelves to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put the point T. From the point G down the vertical line delay segment equal to the segment GT (drawing back) and put a point T. T point and T connect a smooth line. From the point T right at the waist lay 2 cm and put a point T. Point T and G direct connect auxiliary line. 

 Line of the hips. From the points T and T lay down 1/2 the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put point B and B. Point B and B connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the dress. From the point B down vertical lines lay cut BN (drawing back) and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G down the line GT lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm and put a point G (48 : 8 - 1 = 5 cm). Point G G and connect with a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line lay 1 see the resulting point, connect a smooth line with points P and G. 

 The calculation of the width of the scarf on the hips. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2 - 3 cm for loose fit and subtract the amount of poluobhvat hips, obtained during the building of the drawing patterns of the shelf and backrest. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 2 - 24,5 - 26,5 = 4 cm; 4 : 2 = 2 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 62, a). From the point B right lay 2 cm and put a point B. Point B and C connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half BD from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and B. Point T G and connect with a straight line. Through the point B carried down a vertical line, the intersection of it with the underline denote N. 

 Side cut shelves (see Fig. 62, b). From the point B lay to the left of 2 cm and put a point B. Point T and B connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half and TB from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and B. Through the point B down, spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. Point N connect a smooth line with a point N. 

 The value of the solution tucks at the waist. Measure the total length of the waist line of the back and shelves between points T, and T T, T, from the obtained value is subtracted the value of poluobhvat waist on the removed measure (22,5 + 24,5 = 47 cm; 47 - 38 = 9 cm), minus 2cm for loose fit dress waist (9 - 2 = 7 cm). Received 7 cm partitioned into two Darts (front and back). 
The value of the solution front tuck is equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (7 x 0.4 = 2.8 cm). The value of the solution of the two rear Darts equal to 0.6 of the total solution tucks (7 x 0.6 = 4.2 cm). 

 The construction of the Darts in this dress similar to the construction of Darts indress with set-in sleeves

 Construction drawing of the pattern gussets. Build two mutually perpendicular lines, point of intersection denoted by letter G (Fig. 62). 
From the point G to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put the point G and H (11 : 2 = 5.5 cm).
Point G and H make tick marks on the vertical line downwards, with a radius equal to the segment GH with drawing back. The resulting point connect the straight lines with dots G and G. Through G and G hold up the vertical lines on which the segments lay GG (drawing back) and dot G and G. Point G G and connect with a straight line. From points G and G inside the drawing delay of 0.5 cm and dots G and G. Point G and H connect the straight lines with dots G and G.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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