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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Shift dress with set-in sleeves, close-fitting shape

The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 67) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 The length of the dress  105
Poluobhvat hips  53 Girth hands  29
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Front length to the waist line  43 Length of hand to elbow  32
Breast height  27 The circumference of the wrist  16
The center of the chest  9,5    


 Construction drawing shelves and back. On the left side of a sheet of paper, at a distance of 10 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (105 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 68). 

 The width of the dress. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 3 cm on the free fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 3 = 51, see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1.

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection with this line represent T1.

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VNI the point of intersection with this line denote B1. 

 Back width. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1 cm and put a point A1. 
AA1 = 18 + 1 = 19 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line A1B lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 = 12, see 
Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck backless increasing at 0.5 cm Through the point A3 is carried out a vertical line up, at which point A3 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2.6 cm, 
the Angle at the point АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5, see 
Points A4, A5 and connect A smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line on which the points lay to the right of the A4 measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and EN denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2, with a line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = 19 : 3 + 2 = 8,3 cm
Angle П2ГГ4 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.6 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 12 : 10 + 1,6 = 2.8 cm 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. Points P1, P2, P3 and G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 5 = 17 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures otkladyvat 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left is carried out a horizontal line on which the point P4 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point P5 (48 : 10 + 0,5 = 5.3 cm). From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 17 : 3 = 5.7 cm
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П5П6, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line lay 1 see Get point 1. Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.9 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 12 : 10 + 0,9 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7 and G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Auxiliary line on the sides cut. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (12 : 3 = 4 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2 and H2. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up on a vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay cut Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect the auxiliary straight line. From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay 1/3 of the measurements of the semi-circumference of the neck plus 2cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm.
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point B3, B5, and B4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From point G3 along the line Г3Г1 to the left lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G6. Harestock G6 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2, the point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G7. 

 Shoulder cut line top of Darts. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G7 and B8 connect the straight line on which the point G7 lay up the value of the cut Г7В7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be translated in the lateral section of shelves. (Translation of tuck, see "Simulation"). 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. If the dress must be fitted, it is necessary to make tucks. To determine the value of the solution tucks should find the difference between the width of the scarf on to the breast line taking into account allowance for the free fit and the width of the scarf at the waist, subject to the allowance for loose fit (48 + 3 = 51 cm; 38 + 1 = 39 cm; 51 - 39 = 12 cm). The value of the solution tucks all equal 12 cm.
The value of the solution front tuck 0.2 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0,2 = 2,4 cm). The value of the solution side tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.35 = 4.2 cm). The value of the solution of the two rear Darts is 0.45 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.45 = 5.4 cm). The value of one rear tuck is equal to 5.4 : 2 = 2.7 cm, 

 the Calculation of the width of the dress at the hip line. To calculate the width of the dress at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit from this amount, subtract the width of the dress obtained in constructing the drawing, shelves and back between the points B and B1 (53 +2 - 51 = 4 cm). The result is distributed equally between the front and back (4 : 2 = 2 cm). From the point B2 to the left and to the right lay 2 cm and dots B3 and B4. 

 Side cut. From the point T2 to the left and right at the waist line delaying half of the solution side tuck (3,9 : 2 = 2 cm) and put the points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect straight lines from point G5 and continue this line to the line of openings. Point T3 connect the dotted line with a point B4, the point T4 and point B3. Segments Т3Б4 and Т4Б3 divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting points connected to the points B3, T4 and B4, T3 smooth lines. Through the points B3 and B4 hold the vertical line to the bottom line.The point of intersection with underline denote H3 and H4.

 The waist line the shelves. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm) and put a point T5. Points T5 and T4 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point B5. Point B5 and B3 that connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line В1Н1 continue down from point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point H5. Point N5 and N3 connect a smooth line. 

 The design of the Darts on the back. The distance between the points G and G1 is divided from the dividing point to the left along a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point G8. Point G8 spend a vertical line to the hip line. The point of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T6 and B6. From the point T6 to the left and to the right lay the half of the depth of the back Darts (2,7 : 2 = 1,35 cm) and put points T7 and T8. From point 8 down lay 1 - 3 cm and put a point Г9. From the point B6 up on a vertical line lay 4 see Points T7 and T8 connected to the received point and the point Г9 slightly concave lines.
To construct a second tuck divide the distance between the points T8 and T3 in half, the breaking point denoted T9. Point T9 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the chest and hips. The point of intersection with the line of the chest and hips represent the G10 and B7. From the point T9 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T10 and T11. From the point of the G10 down on a vertical line lay 1 - 3 cm and put a point G11. From the point B7 lay up 4 see Point T10 and T11 connected to the received point and the point G11 slightly concave lines.

 Building a front tuck. Through the point G6 down spend a vertical line. The intersection of this line and the waist line denoted T12, hips - B8. From point T12 to the left and right of the line Т5Т4 lay in the half depth front tuck (2,4 : 2 = 1.2 cm) and put points T13 and T14. From the point G7 down in a vertical line from point B8 up the same line lay 5 cm of the resulting points are linked by straight lines with points T13 and T14. 

 Building drawing narrow sleeves to the dress are given in Fig. 54 the only difference is that to measure the circumference of the hand add 7 and 6 see



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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