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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Shift dress with sleeves polarella

The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 58) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat hips  53 Sleeve length  58
The length of the dress  104 The circumference of the wrist  16
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Front length to the waist line  43    


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing patterns of such dresses, you need to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the dress at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 + 5 = 53 cm).

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm (48 : 4 + 0,5 = 12,5 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the dress at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (53 - 19,5 - 12,5 = 21 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (104 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 59). 

 Length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Length to the hip line. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the backrest width (see preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 19.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A right on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (see preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 12.5 cm). Through A A down and spend a vertical line. 

 Line neck backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
For shapes of the body fat in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increases at 0.5 cm 
From point A up raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm
Point A, A and connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 4 cm - for normal shoulders, 3 cm high to the shoulder, 5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line, which (from the point A right) postpone the measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm for planting, and put a point P (of 13.5 + 1 = 14.5 cm). 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line G an outline, with the line of openings G. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance of PG and put a point P (19,5 : 3 = 6.5 cm). Angle PGG divided in half. From point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point P.
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.6 cm 
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. 
From the point P left shoulder lay the slice 3 cm and put a point P. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, put a dot 1. Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 The side cut. Through the point G down, spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom represent respectively the letters T, B and N.

 Construction drawing patterns back half of a sleeve. From the point A right on the line AA lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point A (12,5 : 3 = 4.2 cm). 
From the point P up the line HE lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 4 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 4 - 4 = 8 see 
Point A connect the dotted line with G point and continue this line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Point P and G connect the dotted line. From the point P the line delay value of the segment PG minus 2.5 cm and put a point O. 
PO = GHG - 2,5 = 19,0 - 2,5 = 16,5 cm
The dotted line between points P and divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.6 cm, and put a point O. Point P P up and restore the perpendiculars to the line AB, which lay at 0.6 cm, and dots A and O. Point O, O, O and connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point A down the line OOO lay the measure of the length of the sleeve plus 3 inches and put a point O. 

 The width of the sleeve hem. Line the bottom of the sleeves is carried out through the point O perpendicular to the line of AO. From the point O on this line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the girth of your wrist plus 3 inches and put a point O. From the point O down upon the earth perpendicular to the line OA, which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O. Point O and O connect a smooth line. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of AO. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point 1 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line PP, which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O. From the point P left upon the earth perpendicular to the line PP at which point B postpone 1 cm and put a point O. From the point O make a notch on the line width of the sleeve under the armhole with a radius equal to the segment PG plus 0.3 cm (PH measured in a straight line) and put a point O. Point O and O connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half OO from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.3 cm, and put a point O.Point O, P, O, O, O and O connect a smooth line. Point O and O connect the dotted line.

 The line of the elbow. From the point A down the line sleeves lay the measure of the length of the arm to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). The line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of AO. The point of intersection with the dotted line represent OO L. Line LL continue to the left 0.8 cm and put a point L. Point O, L and O connect a smooth line. Line elbow tuck in the drawing shown by the dotted line, 

 the creation of the drawing pattern of the front. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length plus 5 - 7 cm, and put points A and N (104 + 5 = 109 cm). Through points A and H to the left, spend a horizontal line (Fig. 60). 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a point G. 
AG = 48 : 2 + 3 = 27 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm). For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the front. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 21 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point I left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 12.5 cm). Through A and A spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the line of the chest indicate G and G. 
The distance between the points G and H divide in half and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 Line of the neck. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point A down the line an lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 2,3 = 8,3 see 
the Point A and A connect the dotted line, divide AA cut in half, from point A through point division is carried out by the dotted line, which (from point A) lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point A, A and A connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal to the measure of the center of the chest, and put a point G (GG = 9.5 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line A, the point of intersection represent A. 

 The height of the chest. From the point A down on a vertical line lay the measure of the height of the chest and put a point G. 

 The line of the shoulder cut line tuck. From the point A down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A. Point A A and connect with a straight line. 
From the point P up the line HE lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put the point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 5 = 17 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line where (point P) postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Point P and A connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of AA, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P. 
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Through G and P spend a straight line on which the delay period is equal to the right side of the top of the tuck and put a point P. 
From the point P right at the shoulder cut lay 3 cm and put a point P (BP = 3 cm). 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point P up the line HE lay 1/4 cut GP and put a point P (17: 4 = 4.2 cm). Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP. From the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point P. 
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point A the left on line AA lay 2/3 of the width of the openings minus 1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 12,5 : 3 x 2 - 1 = 7.4 cm. 
From the point G the left on line GG lay 2/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G. 
GG = 12,5 : 3 x 2 = 8,4, see 
Point A and G connect the dotted line and continue this line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Point P and G connect the dotted line. From the point P down on the dotted line delay value of the segment PO (drawing back) and put a point O. the Dotted line PO divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point O. 
From the point P raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm and put a point O. Point O, P, O and connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point A down on the continuation of the line AG lay the measure of the length of the sleeve plus 3 inches and put a point O. 

 The width of the sleeve hem. The line width of the sleeves at the bottom is carried out through the point O perpendicular to the line of AO. From the point O on this line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the girth of your wrist plus 3 inches and put a point O (16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm). The distance between the points O and O divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.8 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points A and O. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of AO. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point 1 to the right on the extension of the perpendicular to the line PP delay of 0.5 cm and put a point O. From the point P right raise up perpendicular to the line PP, which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O. From the point O make a notch on the line width of the sleeve under the armhole with a radius equal to the segment PH plus 0.5 cm (cut PH measured in a straight line) and put a point O. Point O and O connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half OO, from the points of division down upon the earth perpendicular to the line OA, which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point O.Point O, O, O, O and O connect a smooth line. Point O and O connect the dotted line.

 The line of the elbow. From the point P down the line sleeves lay the measure of the length of the arm to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. 
PL = 32 + 2 = 34 see 
the line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of AO. The point of intersection with the dotted line denoted by the letter OO L. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. From the point L the left on line LL postpone 1 cm and put a point L. Point O, L and O connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line of the front. From point A down the line an lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put the point T. From the point G down the vertical line delay value of the segment GT (drawing back), and put a point T. T point and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the front. From the points T and T lay down 1/2 measure the length of the back to the waist line and put point B and B. Point B and B connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line of the front. From the point G down the vertical line delay value of the segment GN (drawing back), and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line.

 The calculation of the depth of the tucks at the waist. If the dress must be fitted, it is necessary to make tucks. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at the waist (with allowance for the free fit): 48 + 5 = 53 cm; 38 + 3 = 41 cm; 53 - 41 = 12 cm the Value of the solution tucks all equal 12 cm.
The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0,25 = 3 cm), the value of the solution side tuck equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.4 = 4.8 cm). The amount of solution back tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.35 = 4.2 cm). 

 The calculation of the width of the dress at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the dress you received when creating drawings backrest and shelves between points B and B. The result is distributed equally between the front and back. 53 + 2 = 55 cm minus 25,75 cm (drawing back) and minus 27, and 25 cm (the drawing of the shelf), gain 2 cm (2 : 2 = 1 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 59). From the point T left waist lay 1/2 of the magnitude of the solution side tuck (4,8 : 2 = 2.4 cm) and put a point T. Point T connect a straight line with a point G. From the point B right postpone 1 cm and put a point B. Point B and C connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half BUT, from the points of division lay to the right of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and B. From the point B down, spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 Side slice forehand (see Fig. 60). From the point T right at the waist lay 1/2 of the magnitude of the solution side tuck (4,8 : 2 = 2.4 cm) and put a point T. Point T connect a straight line with a point G. From the point B left postpone 1 cm and put a point B. Point T and B connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half TB from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points B and C. Through the point B down, spend a vertical line to the intersection with the extension of the line of bottom N, the point of intersection represent N.Point N connect a smooth line with a point N.

 The construction of the Darts at the waist line similar to the construction of the Darts in the drawing, one-piece dresses (see Fig. 53).



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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