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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The processing sequence women's easy dresses


After cutting the chalk line, circled by the contours of the patterns, transferred to the other side of the part copy stitches (snares), plan a mid-back and shelves. Then copy the stitches are cut. Smatyvay tuck and all of the line style (if any), then smatyvay shoulder and side sections. Zametyvayut bottom of the blouse or dress, umatyvaet the sleeve (see diagram ultimania sleeve in the armhole) and do a first fitting.
Usually when matiwane sleeve in the armhole stitches are violated copy, so after the stitches will be laid, we suggest once again the lines of the armhole and the top part of the sleeve to make the thread a running stitch width to 0.5 - 0.7 cm marks should also be marked with thread. 
On the sleeve from the point A3 to the left and right to the points M2 and M3 are paving another thread, but very small stitches, a length of approximately 1.5 - 2.0 mm. the ends of the thread at the points M2 and M3 are not fixed, and leave them with a length of 5 - 6 cm.
After smachivaniya parts along the lines of style, shoulder and side sections umatyvaet sleeve. Sleeve at the point A3 (Fig. 197) pin to pin to the line of the armhole from the shoulder cut. The point M2 is connected to the point m and the point M3 with the M1. The thread between the points A3, M2, and A3 M3 pull, and then evenly distribute the landing. Pins pin the sleeve on the line of the top part to the armhole shelves and back. From points M2 and M3 are injected sleeve to armhole with almost no landing or with a very slight rise. The seam of the sleeve should move in the direction of shelves.Umatyvaet sleeve very gently, frequent stitches, all the while checking to line the top part of the sleeve coinciding with the line of the armhole shelves and back. Only with very careful matiwane sleeve fits well.

 First fitting. The fitting of the product is usually performed on the right side. But if the figure is asymmetrical, the product to try completely. A fitting start to do from the top in the following order: the first pin on the product slaughtered on the shelf on the neck, then the chest, waist and hips. Check the neck shelves and back, the correct allocation of landing at the shoulder seam, the position of the shoulder and side seam and tucks, the correct ultimania sleeves.Pin collar to neckline three pins: the first combine its middle with the middle of the back, the second pin stab on the shoulder seam and the third on the middle shelf at the base of the neck.
After fitting the old copy and remove stitches, refined lines encircle chalk or namachivajut thread. The right side of the product is applied on the left, shear pins and all changes are transferred to the left side of the copier stitches. Copy the stitches are cut and the parts again smatyvay. 
During the first fitting, you can identify significant defects, caused by improper sizing. Below are the individual defects and their solutions.

1. Neck shelves is tight. To remedy this defect it is necessary to slightly cut the neck or release the stock fabric in the shoulder seam. 

2. Neck shelves wide. You need the excess fabric to take in the shoulder seam. 

3. The creases at the neckline backless. In this case, it is necessary to produce a stock fabric from the shoulder seam at the armhole or slightly deepened the neck. 

4. Shoulder seam goes from the middle of the shoulder in the back side. You need to release the seam allowance fabric at the shoulder cut of the back and to pick up the extra fabric at the shoulder cut shelves.

5. Shoulder seam goes from the middle of the shoulder to the side of the shelves. You need to release the seam allowance fabric at the shoulder cut shelves and to pick up the extra fabric at the shoulder cut of the back. 

6. The back pulls the shelf back. Should lift the back at the side seam 2 - 3 cm, and the waist to move higher by as many inches through the seam allowance. The excess tissue along the line of the armhole cut.

7. Creases around the armholes on the back. You need to increase or tuck the fit of the fabric at the shoulder cut a bit to pick up the fabric in the shoulder seam on the back side of the armhole. You can increase the solution Darts at the waist. In some cases, the cut of the armhole of the backrest can sucurity. Then cut the armhole sew the edges to prevent them from stretching. 

8. Armhole shelves not adjacent to the figure. It is necessary to increase solution top tuck. 

9. If the product is a bit wide on the chest, you need extra fabric to take in the side seams, if narrowly - releasing fabric through the seam allowance at the side seams.

10. The creases in the side seam of the back. You need to release the seam allowance of the back side and slightly reduce the solution Darts at the waist. 

11. The creases in the side seam shelves. It is necessary to increase the solution side tuck and release the seam allowance on the bottom shelves. 

12. Creases on the back in the blades. To remedy this defect it is necessary to take in the shoulder seam excess fabric at the neckline of the back and the shoulder seam.

13. Shelves at the bottom differ. Should lift the shelf, to deepen the neckline, take the excess fabric to tuck, but if not, then deepen the armhole.

14. Shelves downstairs too find one another. For defect elimination it is necessary to release the stock fabric in shoulder seam at neck. To release the stock fabric in the shoulder seam at the armhole is not necessary. 

15. The armhole is small or large. You need to release the fabric from the side seam through the seam allowance or take away fabric at the side seam. Armhole can be slightly deepened. 

16. The collar is not snug to the neck. Reduce the collar along the line of primaqiune, and the neckline on the front and the back to collect on a thread and sucurity.

17. On the sleeve at the armhole and slant creases. It is necessary to increase the height of the top part of the sleeve. For this deepens his bottom. It is possible to reduce the width of the head lifts the shoulders and make the new distribution fit; if fit increase, reduce seam sleeves. 

18. On the sleeve of the crown transverse creases. You must reduce the top part of the sleeve at the top of the oval lines.
 



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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