The initial construction drawings backrest and shelves can be considered consisting of two stages: 
1. Building a basic schematic drawing, the basics. 
2. Development of shaped features of the models on this basis. 
The basic structure of the drawing (the basis) can be allocated from the General construction drawing backrest and shelves because it combines certain elements common to garments of various kinds.
The composition framework consists of a number of auxiliary horizontal and vertical lines, the upper contour line of the back and shelves, the centerlines of the front and back, as well as lines of the side sections and the bottom, and Darts, and in some cases the location of pockets. 
"Basis" takes into account the physique of the person, determined by the dimensions of the figure uniform, defined margins, and typical construction details, and also features of technological processing of products (ways of framing the details). 

Data sources for building foundations

The construction of the "basics" produced by the calculations, the initial data for which, as noted above, are the measurements of the shapes and allowances. The number of dimensions of the shape used in the various methods for drawing shoulder items, ranges from 10 - 12 and 16 - 17.
Allowances taken into account in making drawings of clothing items, fall into the seam, loose fit, decorative-structural design (the shape, the silhouette) and allowances for the thickness of the material (see Chapter 2).
Many construction methods set the allowances only at the chest. Allowances on other portions of the garment are determined by calculation in the process of building drawings. 
A unified method of designing clothes TSNIISHP developed a whole system of allowances (increases) in certain parts of the frame: poluobhvat breast PG, PT waist, hips Pb; length waist PD.t.with, freedom (deepening) of the openings of the SS.PR, the width of Rostock PN.R and the height of Rostock PV.R, the fullness of the sleeve.p etc.
The total allowance at the chest line PG on the recommendation of CNIISHP defined as the amount of technical and decorative and structural allowances. 
Decorative and constructive allowances to the back and the shelf was proposed to identify tabular data for total of allowances established depending on the kind of clothing, type of fabrics and silhouette. Decorative and constructive allowances to a width of the openings (enlargement of the openings) is determined depending on the desired width of the sleeves. 
The construction drawing basics backrest and shelves using the same methodology TSNIISHP preliminary design, including:
1. Establishing the value of allowances for free customized fit for all parts of the frame. 
2. The calculation of the width of the back and shelves with regard to the technical and decorative and constructive allowances, and the width of the openings only in the light of technical allowance. 
3. Calculation of the preliminary width of the sleeves, on the basis of the width of the openings of technical allowance. 
4. Calculate the desired width of the sleeves on size measurements of arm circumference and Op allowance for the fullness of the sleeves.p. 
5. The definition of the extension sleeve and the extension of the openings. 
Drawing backrest and shelves, built using any construction methods, can be separated into:
grid drawing; 
the upper contour line; 
line polutanata shelves and middle line of back; 
the side sections and the bottom line; 
tuck, location of pockets, etc.

Mesh drawing 

a Set of auxiliary vertical and horizontal lines that define the overall size (dimensions) of the product on the chest and the size of its main parts (back, shelves, openings) are called "basic grid drawing" or just "mesh". After drawing grid lines drawing will be of the form shown in Fig. III-1. Grid drawing is composed of 5 horizontal and 4 vertical lines, having the following names:
1 - 1, Rostock, corresponds to the position of the neck point (the 7th cervical vertebra); 
2 - 2 a - line chest (armhole depth); 
3 - 3 - rise; 
4 - 4 - hips (buttocks); 
5 - 6 - bottom line of products; 
I - I - line the middle of the back; 
the II - II line determines the width of the back; 
III - III - a line defining the width of the shelves; 
the IV - IV line of the middle of the front defines the width of the product.
Horizontal 1-1 and 2-2, depending on the methodology applied in different sequences, but often the creation of the drawing begin with the construction of a right angle, i.e. with a horizontal line of Rostock 1-1 and vertical lines mid-back I - I. 
the distance between the horizontal lines 1 - 1 2 and - 2, called the depth of the armholes is determined differently. The following is a typical empirical formulas used in the construction drawing basics jacket. 
The depth of the armhole of the backrest 2 according to the method determined by the formula RP = SG/4 + VP + PC/3 + PS.PR, 
according to the methods 14 AB = SG/4 + R/5 + SS.PR
according to the method, MODEL 25 AG = Ot.n + 4,5, 
where SG, R, VP, PC and Ot.p - measurements of the figure, respectively: poluobhvat chest, height, shoulder height, body position, height of rear openings; 
PS.PR - allowance for freedom (deepening) of the openings; 
4,5 - difference levels-axillary line (the back) and the chest line passing through the nipple point. 
 The position of the waist line (3 - 3) is determined according to many methods the same, according to the following formula: RT = Dt.+ PD.t.from where Dt.- measure the length of the back to the waist line; PD.t.with allowance for increasing or decreasing the waist line, depending on the extent of conformance of the product at the waist and fashion. 
 The position of the line of the hips (buttocks) (4 - 4) find the distance from the waist line, take 16 - 18 cm for male and 18 - 20 cm for women's clothes, or determine on the basis of calculations of the type TB = 0,5 Dt.with - (0 - 2,5). 
 Line the bottom of the product (5 - 5) find the measure of the length of the product: PH = di, Di is determined on a scale of lengths of standard products recommended by the methodical meeting of the Houses of the models for each season, or model.
When drafting clothing patterns for new types and models of length can be found using (depending on type of clothing) the position of the lines of the knee or hip (Fig. III-1, and a line knee length shown by hachures), which are applied to the drawing, based on measurements DC - the distance from the cervical point to the center of the kneecap or DB - the distance from the cervical point to the hip line. For coats, dresses PH = DK +- PD.and, for jacket, jacket PH = DB +- PD.and where the PoA.and the stock to length products. 
In turn, the PD allowance.and PDK + (0 - 2,5), or PD.and = PDB + (0 - 1,5).
In these formulas, the values PDC and PDB show how the product is below or above the knees or thighs. Free term of the formula takes into account the elongation of the back to fit trough waist. For products direct and free silhouettes free member is taken to equal zero. 
 The position of the line mid-front (IV - IV), find, laying on the chest or the line of Rostock, an amount equal to the total width of the product at the level of the chest line GG = SG + PG or AA = SG + PG where SG - measurement of poluobhvat breast (in women's clothing CG); PG - General allowance on the chest equal to the amount of allowances for free customized fit, and thickness of materials. 
If the product side has a split tuck, then in addition, given the seam allowance is 1.5 cm
In products with a zip front a line IV - IV of the called line polutanata. Men clothes (jacket, coat) line polutanata above the chest line deviates somewhat from the vertical IV - IV in the direction of the openings (Fig. 111-1). About building line polutanata for these products will be discussed below. 
 The position of the line defining the width of the back (II - II), determined by the formula: AA = SS + SS, where SS is the measure of the width of the back; PS - allowance to the width of the back at chest level. 
 The position of the line defining the width of the shelves (III - III), find the line IV - IV to measure the width of the chest (Fig. 111-1, b).
In the menswear AA = 0,9 CC + 0.5 n + PP, where CC is a measure of the width of the breast; n is the number of completeness; PP - allowance to the width of the shelves at chest level. 
In women's clothing AE = 0,9 CG + (CG - CG) + PP, where the difference (SG - Sh) takes into account the increase in the width of the shelves due to the shape of the breast. 
In children's clothing : 
boys and girls toddler AA = CC 0,9 + 0,5 + PP, 
for boys and girls, preschoolers and school-age boys AA = CC 0,9 + 1,0 + PP. 
In these formulas, 0,5; 1,0 - values, taking into account the development of the chest muscles and glands.
For girls students and teenagers the width of the shelves is determined in the same way as in women's clothes.