The upper contour line

 

Proper application of the upper contour lines (Fig. 111-2) AA - Rostock, AA - neck UP UP and - shoulder sections, and cutoff armholes П₁П₃1Г₂2П₆П₅₁ is crucial to landing the product on the human figure. To the upper part of the body (bearing surface) clothing is usually tight, so the top contour lines of the clothing items you need to find the most specific match their size and shape size and shape of the human body.The problem is, on the one hand, to find the shape and size of each contour and, on the other hand, the determination of their position relative to the original grid lines of the drawing and alignment of the contours of parts of the back and shelves.

 

The upper sections of the backrest

 

Contour of the germ is applied, after determining its width and height, and then found a point (the top of the sprout) is connected to the middle point of the germ of a concave curve.

For calculations of the width of Rostock use the measure of School or SG. The height of the sprout is often defined on the basis of its width (table. 111-3).

The shape of the curve of Rostock, due to the development of the trapezius muscle resembles a quarter of an ellipse. The ordinates of this curve relative to the horizontal line of the sprout change slightly at first, but as you get closer to the top of the Rostock - cool (Fig. 111-3).

The tip of the sprout also serves as the highest point of the shoulder cut of the back.

The position of the outer end of the shoulder cut of the back is determined using various measurement shapes and graphics. Often for this purpose used measurements of the height of the shoulder of VP or VP.to. So, according to the standard method, first determine the bevel shoulder RS (see Fig. 111-3, b) RS = VP - (P + P + P), where P - allowance for fit of the back at the armhole; P - allowance for the thickness of the shoulder pads; P - moving allowance for the shoulder seam to the side shelves.

The use of projective measurements of VP for finding the bevel of the shoulder cut does not allow the accurate construction of the drawing. On the position of the end of the shoulder cut of the back affects not only the projection measure EP, but also move the shoulder point in the horizontal plane (turning the shoulders, i.e. the offset of the shoulder points forward), and the curvature of the back. This explains the introduction into the formula of correction factors (allowance P move the shoulder seam).

Separate methods to determine the bevel of the shoulder cut of the back without the use of measurements of VP, replacing it with BO distance from the line of armhole depth (Fig. 111-3, in).

BO = SG/4 + R/20 + P/3.

Finding the taper of a shoulder point (see Fig. 111-3, b) or On (see Fig. 111-3 in), it connects the tip of the sprout direct and to the continuation of the shoulder lay cut the amount of extension of the back at the shoulder line. Extension of the backrest is determined on the basis of simple calculations: OO equal to SG/20, or as taking some constant value S installed depending on the type of product and fashion, equal to 2.0 - 3.5 cm

Another way of building shoulder cut backless proposed a unified method TSNIISHP. From the vertex point of Rostock A radius equal to the measure of the width of the shoulder of SHP, and from the point of intersection of the vertical I - I with waist T radius equal to the measure VP.to hold the arc, the point of intersection P which is the shoulder point (Fig. 111-3, g) HP = SHP, TP = + P where P - allowance for the thickness of the shoulder pads, taken to equal 0 dress, jacket and coat - 0.5 cm, light coats - 1.0 cm.

For winter items to add to this allowance additional allowance equal to 0.5 δ, taking into account a thickness of an insulation strip δ.

Point A and P direct connect. Point P depending on the width of the backrest can be located on the vertical line defining the width of the back, left or right of it. The outer end of the shoulder cut point P be determined after the registration bumps on the blades.

The formation of protuberances on the blades in the back of the design with the help of stivania, planting or tucks. The position of the apex of convexity of the blades And points (Fig. 111-3, e) height and width is determined by the formula AU = 0,4 Dt.with UI = CL, where Dt.- measure the length of the back to the waist line; TSL - measurement of the distance between the centers of the blades.

From point And of center, of radius equal to 11 cm, describe a circle. The total solution tucks for the formation of the necessary bulges on the blades for typical figures taken as equal to 1.5 - 2.0 cm

The total distribution of the solution on the convexity of the blades recommended initially made so that 1 cm (along the arc of a circle) accounted for armhole, and the other 0.5 - 1.0 cm (also on the arc of a circle) - shoulder cut.

When building the foundations of the back solution the first tuck lay in both sides (0.5 cm) from the point of intersection of a circle drawn from the point And, with the continuation of the horizontal line UI and through the obtained point and the point And carried straight to the intersection with a vertical line II - II defining the width of the back. The solution of the second tuck they lay around a straight line connecting the point And the point located at a distance 1/4 - 1/3 of the length of the shoulder slice from the top of the sprout A.

The line of the shoulder cut of the solution determines the amount of planting at the shoulder cut, mortar or tuck. The length of the Darts should be more of it in solution 3 or 4 times, but not less than 5 - 6 cm (Fig. 111-3, g).

The length of the shoulder cut of the back is determined by the formula: AP = AP + P where P - the value of landing or mortar tuck.

The outer end of the shoulder cut of the back point P determine, postponing the continuation of the direct AP the length of the shoulder cut of the back UP. In Additions to uniform methodology, 1965, the position of the end of the shoulder cut is recommended to determine the intersection of two arcs: PB drawn from the point P (the position of the point P see below) and AP drawn from the point A (Fig. 111-3, e).

Making the shoulder cut of the back, if the product is provided tuck, shown in Fig. 111-3.

Such constructions allow one to obtain accurate results if the surface oblecenie detail, flat or deployed.

There are other ways of finding the outer end of the shoulder cut. For example, women's easy dress this point is determined by a kind of arc measurements, denoted by VP, and remove from the line of measurement of the second bust at the border of articulation of the arms with the torso to the shoulder point (Fig. 111-3, d).When you build a scan of the back first lay on a vertical line the height of the shoulder MP = VP, and then resection of the vertex point of Rostock A on a horizontal line drawn from the point P determine the position of the outer end of the shoulder cut AP = SHP + allowance for fit of the shoulder cut of the back.

The outer end of the shoulder cut is also the top of the armhole of the back.

The position of the depth of the armhole using the same methodology TSNIISHP find, based on the position of the point P that lie at the intersection of the perpendicular from point P with a vertical line II - II (Fig. 111-3, g). Considering that the depth of the openings depends on two variables: the vertical diameter of the armhole Øпр and width of the openings of PDS (Fig. 111-4), to determine what offers the formula 2nd kind of size, not directly determining the required size details:

men's clothing PG = 0,125 SG + 0,4 PDS + PS.PR + 7,4 + PST,

for women's clothing PG = SG 0,15 + 0,4 PDS + PS.PR + 5,1+ Pat,

for children's clothing PG = SG 0,25 + 0,4 PDS + PS.PR + (0,4 - 0,8) + Psout,

where 0,125; 0,15 and 0,25 - estimated coefficients when the depth of the armhole of the product with the standards of the SG shape or CH; PDS - the width of the openings; PS.PR - allowance for freedom (deepening) of the openings; 7,4; 5,1; (0,4 - 0,8) - constant values; Psut - allowance for sutivana the armhole.

 

The upper sections of the shelves

 

Building a scan of the shelves of produce, as noted above, same drawing, and that the building of the back linking basic dimensions of shelves with a back. The construction begins with finding the position of the highest point of the shelf (the top of the neck) relative to the horizontal line of Rostock.

Cut, which determines the level of the top of the neck of the shelf relative to the horizontal blade of the back, called "balance" (see Fig. 111-5).

The balance can be positive or negative, i.e. the top of the neck shelves can be placed above or below the horizontal line of Rostock.

The definition of "balance" is needed to trim the front and rear parts and is a very complex task. There are several ways to define "balance". In some cases, calculate the value of"balance" for men's clothing depending on measurements of the position of the PC case, defining "balance" as the PC/3 and putting its value from the line down the middle of Rostock. This method is applicable only for a particular case - stooped figures.

In other cases, for finding the position of a vertex of the neck use the measure height of the breast of VG. Sometimes the position of the apex of the neck is determined using the formula 2nd kind, depending on the girth of chest, height and allowance, for example, a jacket BA = SG/3 + R/20 + N/3 - (0 to 1.0).

Constant values in this formula will be based on the completeness of the figures 0 - very large for completeness, 0.5 cm for big and 1.0 cm for low to medium fullness.

Most fully accounted for the determinants of "balance" in the formulas, the proposed uniform methodology design TSNIISHP.

for men's clothing b = (Dt.p - School/3 - Dt.with) : 2 + (0,3 - 0,8) = (Dt.p - Dt.s) : 2 - SSH/6 + (0,3 - 0,8);

for women's clothing b = ([Dt.p - School/3 - Dt.s] + 0,2(SG - SG)) : 2 + (0,3 - 1,1) = ((Dt.p - Dt.C) + 0,2(SG - SG)) : 2 - SSH/6 + (0,3 - 1,1);

boys b = (Dt.p - Dt.s) : 2 - 0,2 SSH + (0,9 - 2,4);

clothes for girls b = ((Dt.p - Dt.C) + (SG - Sh)) : 2 - 0,2 SSH + (0,1 - 1,9).

In these formulas (0,3 - 0,8); (0,3 - 1,1); (0,9 - 2,4) and (0,1 - 1,9) - allowances, taking into account the increase in the length of the shelves when the rounding contour of the breast; (Dt.n = Nl/3) - the level of the top of the neck relative to the waist line (SSH/3 - the length of the sprout); Dt.C - level mid-Rostock relative to the waist line; Sh - Sh - difference poluobhvat breast second and first, which takes into account horizontal balance varying depending on the shape size and fullness.

As seen from the above formulas, the size of the balance varies depending on the size. Women's clothing for balance also changes depending on completeness*. For low completeness, balance is bigger than that for medium and large, as Sh with increasing fullness of the shape at the same value SG increased by 0.6 cm (see dimension tables).

When designing winter goods balance compared to winter products will increase. TSNIISHP recommends an increase in the balance to determine depending on the thickness of an insulation strip (0.6 b), and the design and thickness of the fur collar (1.5 cm for conventional fold-over collar, and 2.0 cm for a shawl collar).

* Addendum to the uniform methodology, 1965, to calculate the balance in men's clothing offers a refined formula b = = (Dt.p - Dt.s) : 2 - SSH/6 + 0.5 n - (0,7 - 0,2), where n is the number of completeness (1 - low, 2 - medium, 3 - large 4 - very large).

None of the considered methods of definition of "balance" does not take into account the design features of products. Studies show that it is important that the location of the side seam the width of the openings. Changing the position of the side seam changes the balance on the 1 2 see

the Construction of the cut throat produce shelves after finding the width and depth of the neck. The width of the neck of shelves of women's clothing is usually taken equal to the width of Rostock. For menswear it is taken equal to the width of the sprout or less than the width of Rostock GG = R - 0,5,

and sometimes more of it: AA = AA + (0,5 - 1,0), coat - 0.5 cm, for coat - 1,0 see

in the justification of the calculations to determine the width of Rostock and the mouth often originate from the shape of the curve (Fig. 111-6, a), the resulting cross-section shape of the inclined plane passing through the base of the neck at the level of cervical point behind and above the jugular notch of the front. It does not take into account the impact on the size of the width of the sprout and of the neck, the shoulders, the posture of the figure, the thickness of the shoulder pads, winter clothing and other factors.

Studies have shown that the shape of the curve (Fig. 111-6, a) differs significantly from the shape of the figure formed by the line of the inner contour of the sweep sheath complex shape of the reference surface shape and the cut lines in the middle of the back and shelves (Fig. 111-6, b).

If the scan of the shell reference surface to build with cut-out lines on the shoulders (from shoulder seam), the figure formed by the lines of the sprout back and neck shelves will be wider, but shorter. Thus the same vertex point of Rostock R and the top of the neck G will tend to be offset relative to one another (Fig. 111-6, b) as the line of the shoulder sections of the back RS and shelves GS are not lines of symmetry of the support surface.

The depth of the neck is determined differently depending on the type of clothing and fashion. Often find, depending on already found the width of the neck.

AG = AA + 0.5 or AG = AA - 2.0 (Fig. 111-6, g), where 0,5; 2,0 cm - allowances on increasing or decreasing the line of the neck, respectively for low or high ledge of the lapel.

Sometimes when building the foundations of shelves depth of the neck is recommended to determine depending on the measurement poluobhvat neck: AA = 0,45 SSH (Fig. 111-6, d).

The construction of the cut of the neck is performed with the use of various graphic techniques, holding the line on the patterns found through the additional support point or compass.

For example, consider building the shelves neck of the jacket. According to one method, define an auxiliary point G and H (see Fig. 111-b, g). Cut AG = SG/10 lay down vertically from the point A, then point G connect with point A auxiliary line. Line GO lay cut GG = GA/5.

The neckline is performed according to the curve through the points A and G tangent to the straight GG at point G.

According to the methods of the points A and A, defining respectively the width and the depth of the neck, hold the arc with the radius equal to AA, from the point of intersection (t. 4) the same radius of compass is carried out with the neckline AA (see Fig. 111-b, d). This method allows you to find the standard form of the line of the neck, which can be adjusted in the manufacture of primary sample model depending on the type of clothing and fashion.

The top cap is also the top of the shoulder cut shelves.

The construction of the shoulder cut shelves should be closely linked with the construction of the shoulder cut of the back. The slope of the shoulder cut shelves, or directly determine the size of the bevel of the shoulder cut of the back GS = RS + 1.5 (Fig. 111-7, a) or on the basis of simple graphic creations, made based on the position of the shoulder cut of the back. For example, find the support point lying on a line defining the width of the back, down vertically from point O (Fig. 111-7, b): OA = BO/3, where BO - cut, which determines the depth of the armhole of the back. Sometimes use the previously found point (point K, Fig.111-7, b), which determined the slope of the shoulder cut of the back.

These methods of finding the slope of the shoulder cut shelves are very simple, but have no justification, and therefore is applicable only for certain special cases of the construction for which they are designed.

Attempts to find a universal dependence of the slope of the shoulder cut shelves for all kinds of products regardless of the cut lead to a significant complication of calculation formulas. Thus, a unified method TSNIISHP for this objective, a number of graphical constructs (Fig. 111-7, g) and empirical formulae of the 3rd kind. The building is from the line of armhole depth (imaginary line of the chest). The depth of the armhole shelves is determined by the formula HP = PH - (0,2 - 0,3)PP + (0,1 - 0,4), where PH - the depth of the armhole of the backrest (taken without allowance for the fit on the armhole of the backrest);PP support cut, lay off on the perpendicular from the point P to the vertical III - III, which determines the width of the shelves.

Cut PP - proposed, in turn, determined by the formula:

for men's clothing PP = SG/20 + b/7 + 1,0,

for women's clothing PP = SG/10 + b/7,

where b - "balance".

Next on the same vertical line III - III from the point G up lay cut GP = PG + (0,1 - 0,4).

Point P connect with point P slant line and believe that it is a locus of the position of the outer end of the shoulder cut shelves, which may lie on this line or its continuation.

The length of the shoulder cut shelves all methods identify the same length of the shoulder seam in the finished product, i.e. measure the width of the shoulder of the slope NR. The length of the shoulder of the cut lay from the top of the neck at the previously found inclined straight line (point S, O, U in Fig. 111-7, a, b, C) or find a notch from the top neck on the line PP (dot P) (Fig. 111-7, d).

The described method of finding the point the outer end of the shoulder cut shelves is much harder than all the previous ones, but has no advantage over them. In the Addendum to the uniform methodology for this purpose it is proposed to use a more simple graphical method of serifs (Fig. 111-7, d), the essence of which is as follows.

The depth of the armhole shelves HP equal to the depth of the armhole of the backrest PG. Size PG take without allowance for sutivana to fit the armhole.

The point of contact of the openings with a vertical line III - III defines the width of the shelves, is given by: GP = 0,3 PDS + 1,2, where PDS is the width of the openings. From the point P right on a horizontal line lay cut PP = 0.6 cm and the support point P. From this point, conduct an arc of radius PP and it make the cut from the top of the neck A (in the female products - A) radius OP equal to SHP, where SHP - measurement of width of a shoulder of the slope.

Connect the dots A (A) and P a straight line, get the line of the shoulder cut shelves.

The final contour design of the shoulder cut shelves at its outer end usually slightly (0.5 - 0.6 cm), slip through the openings down, considering the tension diagonal cut of the armhole shelves in handling and bending the shoulder of the slope from the shoulder point.

 

Tuck the top in women's clothing

 

For receiving the convex shape of the shelves in the breast area in women's clothes are designed the top tuck. In a tuck removes excess tissue resulting in the upper part of the shelf (Fig. 111-8).

The inner end of the tuck, call center solution tuck must match the position of the protruding points of the chest, which is defined by two measurements of the pieces: tall chest of VG and the distance between the centers of the breast TSG. For the solution tuck in the drawing (Fig. 111-8, b) through the depth of the openings from the vertical delay IV - IV cut GH = TF + PM, where PM is the amendment on fashion, taking into account the change of the distance between the protruding points of the chest depending on the fashion. At present, the amendment may be taken equal to 1.0 - 1.5 cm Through the point G carried out perpendicular to the line of armhole depth.From point the top of the neck A make a notch in the perpendicular AS radius equal to the distance from the top of the neck to the center of the solution tucks AG = VG - A, where VG is the measure of the height of the chest measured from neck point A; A - the length of the sprout on the curve.

In winter products radius AG increase by the same amount, which increased the balance.

Point G depending on the magnitude of allowance of PS.PR may lie above or below the chest line.

Depending on the model, the top tuck can be placed on the shelf in different ways. The model is considered to be the position of the Darts from the shoulder cut, so the build top tuck on the basis usually given for this to her situation.

The outer end of the shoulder Darts at the slice located at a distance of 3.5 - 4.0 cm from the top of the neck. While one side of the tuck guide common thread that prevents stretching of the seam tuck while grinding and during handling. To find the second outer end tuck on the scan of the shelves should determine the value of the solution tucks. Solution tuck - distance between the outer ends of the tuck. When the length of the Darts in the value of the solution is also different. So, when constructing the Darts in the value of the solution is determined not between the ends, and conditional on distance from the centre of the solution tuck. The solution tucks calculated or obtained by graphic constructions similar to the construction of the angle stivania in men's clothes.

Consider one of the ways to build the upper tuck. From the center of the solution tucks G radius equal HE conduct the arc and it ugladyvajut cut AA equal to 3.5 to 4.0, see Point A connect straight to the point G - this is the direction Darts in the finished product and one of the sides of the tuck. From the point G by a second arc with a radius of GG = 0,9 CG + (CG - CG) : 2, where SHG - measurement of the width of the chest; SG - SG - measurements of the first and second poluobhvat chest.

Along the chord of this arc from a straight GO to the left lay the mortar tuck. The value of the solution tucks is determined by the formula HG = 1,5(SG - SG).

As can be seen from the formula, the value of the solution tucks depends on the size and completeness of the figure. With the increasing size of the solution tucks increased by an average of 0.75 cm In one dimension the solution is to tuck small pieces of completeness is 0.9 cm longer than average, and 1.8 cm greater than for large.

Through G G and draw to the intersection with the arc from point A, the point of intersection represent P. For the same arc from point lay to the right P cut PA equal AA, and denote the point A. Point A corresponds to the position of the top of the neck (A) at the closed tuck in the shoulder cut shelves.

The position of the outer end of the shoulder cut (P) women's clothing is defined the same as in men. Point P connect with point A a straight line. The intersection point of this straight line indicate GP P second outer end of the tuck. Equalize the lengths of the sides tuck: GA = GP. Point A connect with the top of the neck shelves A. For smoother formation of bulges at the chest side Darts draw respectively a smooth, slightly convex lines, not bringing them to the center of the mortar tuck - point G 1 - 2 cm (Fig. 111-8, b).

 

Cut armholes

 

Finding the right shape, size and location of openings relative to the other nodes determines the design quality of all products.

Line of the armhole in clothing with set-in sleeve is usually along the border of articulation of the arms with the torso and in the finished product is a closed spatial curve of elliptical form.

In the bottom of the armpit line of the openings extends below the contour of the hand (Fig. 111-9). Lowering the armhole, you need to ensure the freedom of movements of the hand and also for easy dressing sleeveless products lower layers of clothing. Therefore, the allowance for the lowering of openings are given for the garments of the 2nd layer (light dresses, jacket, jacket) is less than (PS.PR = 1 - 2 cm) than for clothing 3-layer (coat for summer, spring and autumn SS.PR = 2 to 4 cm, for winter - PS.PR = 4 cm).

Top of the line of openings in the finished product rests on the shoulders. On scans of the back and shelves (Fig. 111-9, b) the line of the armhole open. Upper ends of this curve are already found before the outer ends of the shoulder sections of the back and shelves corresponding to the position of the shoulder point on the figure.

To build a sophisticated sweep curve of the armscye curve, in addition to the shoulder points, usually ask a number of reference points.

The main reference point on the shelf is the point P lying on the vertical line III - III on 4 - 5 cm above the depth of the armhole. At this point in the curves make the control nadziejko to connect the sleeve with the armhole (front nadechka).

The same reference point of the armhole on the back is the touch point of the openings with a vertical line II - II (t P). It is located in the middle of the armhole of the back or slightly lower. This point is also used as a control notch for connecting the sleeve with the armhole..

At the bottom of the cut openings for the line of armhole depth. The touch point P should be placed in the middle of the width of the openings.

To construct the curve of the armscye curve is also used and a number of subsidiary points. So, to build the lower part of the armhole find the points lying on the bisectors of angles formed by a horizontal line at the depth of the openings with vertical lines defining the width of the back and shelves (points 1 and 2).

In practice the length of a line defining the position of the support point on the bisector of the cutting angle of the openings, always take less (1,8 - 2,2 cm) rear angle bisectors of the openings (2,5 - 3,0 cm). For example, cuts Г₁1 = 0,15 PDS + 0.7, while Г₄2 = 0,15 PDS.

Top of the line of the armhole shelves is usually carried out, pre-connected to the top of the armhole shelves with front nadrezkoj auxiliary line. Direct divide in half and on the line perpendicular to this line lay the amount of deflection 3 - 4, which is defined as a constant value (0.7 - 0.9 cm) or take it equal to 1/20 PP.