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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§5. Sports pants without side seams


Build two perpendicular lines with a vertex at point H1 (Fig. 81). The seat height Я1Т1 determine the calculation method of Я1Т1 = 0,5 SB - 2 cm This calculation is applied to the IV growth. The magnitude of the change from growth to growth of +-0,5 cm
From point T1 to bottom vertically lay the cut Т1Н1 equal to the length of the pants. The hips is carried out through the point B1, Я1Б1 = 6 cm the Height of the knee is determined by dividing the distance between the hips and the bottom half, i.e. Б1К1 = Б1Н1/2.
Determine the overall width of the pants at the hip line and put it from the point B1 equal, i.e.
Б1Б2 = Б1Б4 = (SB + Pb + PH)/2.
To determine the balance of the trousers from the point B1 with a radius equal to the segment Б1Б4, hold the arc and its chord lay the cut Б4Б5 = 0,1 SB - 1 see
To construct a line of the bow from point B2 draw up to the waist line (point T2). Through the points T2 and B2 to draw the line of the buttocks (point H2). From the point T2 to the left postpone 1 cm and put a point T21. Point T21 and B2 connect by a straight line.
The total width of step on the line of the buttocks
Saga = 0,35(SB + IB) - 1.
The width of the step front of the pants
Я2Я21 = [0,35(SB + IB) - 1]/2.
On the bisector of the angle B2, H2, Я21 lay 1.5 cm and put точку1. Points B2, 1 and Я21 connect a smooth line. The balance line Б4Б5 continue down to the buttocks line (point Ya40). From the received point to the left lay the cut Я40Я4 equal to the balance Б4Б5 - 1, see Through the points H4 and B5 perform live and from the point B5 on this line lay the cut Б5Т5 = Б2Т2. From the point H4 to the left lay the cut that determines the width of the step back of the pants:
Я4Я5 = [0,35(SB + IB) - 1]/2.
On the bisector of the angle Б5Я4Я5 lay cut I42 = 1.5 cm Line of seats is carried out through the point T5, B5, 2 and AM5.
Line protecive belt get, connect the dots T21 and T1 the straight line and points T5 and T1 smooth, slightly concave line.
The width of the bottom is determined by the circumference of the ankle.. The tape is placed horizontally around the leg just above the inside ankle, closing on the outer surface of the tibia. Tight fit of the trousers-leg to the girth of the ankle is given an allowance for tucks. One tuck come from a point D1 on the line Н1Т1 with a solution of 3.5 cm and a length of 13 - 15 cm, where stachivaya zipper. The second tuck lay in the seam stitching of the pants, aside from the points H2 and H4 to the left and to the right of 1 see

§ 6. SHORTS
 


The construction of the shorts are being made from the standard design of the pants. Below is the build of shorts for a figure in which the hips at the level of the desired length of the folds have a much greater fullness than the standard figures. In this case, the front half of the pants on the line of the buttocks (Fig. 82) built to measure the girth of the thigh Lunch. To determine the girth of the thigh, the tape is directed horizontally around the hips, touching the upper edge of the desired length of fold.
Я1Я21 = Lunch/2 + 1 see
To determine the width of the step front halves of the pants determine the difference between the width of the front halves of the line of buttocks and hips poluobhvat Я21Я2 = Я1Я21 - SB/2. From the point H2 is carried out vertical up to the waist line and at the intersection with the line of the hips put a point B2.
To the left of point B2 lay horizontally the width of the front halves Б1Б2 = Я1Я2.
To determine the length of the shorts from dot I down bend lines lay cut IAN = 0,2 DK + 3 see
Width of the front halves of the shorts underneath is measured by the length Н1Н2 = 0,5 Lunch - 2.
From point N to both sides lay the segments НН1= НН2 = (0,5 Lunch - 2)/2.
To build the back half of the shorts lay the segments Н1Н3 = 1 cm and Н2Н4 = 3 cm.
The points B3 and D3 connect direct and to the point of its intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я3.
The width of the rear halves along the line of the buttocks Я3Я5 = (Lunch + Pbad + Psov) - Я1Я21. Further drawing of the product build in the usual way.

LABORATORY and PRACTICAL WORK 13 

Option 1. Build pants of the mock-up fabric to a specific shape close to the model.

Option 2. To build a prototype of the pants fabric for a figure O-shaped legs.

Option 3. To build a prototype of the pants fabric for a figure with X-shaped legs.

To perform the fit of the pants. Pay attention to the location of the fold lines as front and rear halves. To identify ways of elimination of errors in the design.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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