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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

Construction drawing basics pants

The design of the pants in terms of the individual garments in the Studio has a number of features. The design depends on the age of the customer, growth and completeness, body shapes, ways of wearing (costume or not), direction of fashion.
Pants without a suit offered only in the traditional, more slender form, taking into account their independent role in the ensemble (i.e. they should be easily combined with clothes of different style and purpose). Flared trousers tend to sauginiu and become somewhat shorter, very narrow throughout length (width down to 22 cm) like jeans with pockets on the hips are rather low. 
When measuring the shape of the customer for construction of the trousers the tailor must pay attention to the way they wear. Some customers pants are kept on the iliac bones, the other above or below.
When determining pants length, you must consider their width at the bottom. When the width of the pants at the bottom of 24 - 27 cm distance from floor to bottom line of RP.n = 5...6 cm; for the narrow bottom trousers with a width of 20 - 23 cm distance from floor to bottom of pants RP.h = 7...8 see 
here is an example of the construction of the design of the pants on the model figure. The construction of the basic units of universal design, regardless of changes in fashion trousers.
The design drawings are considered pants seam, except for the line of the seat, which provides the seam allowance and reserves during the cutting of the pants, the Drawings are given without seam allowance to hem the bottom.
Measurement of the shape, see:
Putting chest SG = 50 
Poluobhvat waist St = 44 
Poluobhvat hips SB = 52 
Length to the waist line Dt.C = 45,5 
Distance from waist line to floor at the side of DSB = 110,8 
the Width of the pants at the bottom SHN = 25 
the Width of the pants at knee level SHK = 25 
Distance from the floor to the hem of the pants RP.n = 5 
Allowance for the free fit of the pants to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2. 

 THE FRONT HALF OF THE PANTS. The build starts with a vertical crease line of the trousers. The upper end of the crease line denoted by point T (Fig. 2). From that point down the vertical delay period TN = DRC - 1 - RP.n + PN (1 cm is the distance between the waist line and the line of landing of the pants). Simplifying the equation, we will obtain T = DSB - RP.n = 110,8 - 5 = 105,8 cm 
 seat Height Sun (see Fig. 1) the first method is determined by the distance from the waist line to the plane of the seat DS. In this case, DS = 26,2 cm 
CHA = DS - 1 = 26,2 - 1 = 25.2 cm; or CHA = SB 0,5 - 0,8 = 0,5 x 52 - 0,8 = 25,2 cm
The seat height from growth to growth changes by 0.5 cm Height of the seat the second method is determined by the length of the trousers DSH = 80,6 cm From the H-point up vertically, lay the length of the step (point I). In this case TN = TN - S = 105,8 - 80,6 = 25,2 see 
the Third method of determining the height of the seat is connected with the definition of segments of TB - level to the greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles from the line of landing of the pants and the BOJ - the distance from the hip line to the line of the buttocks. The greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles from the waist line is determined from the calculation: Dt.with/2 - 3,5 = 45,5/2 - 3,5 = 19,2 see
Distance from waist line to the plane of the seat DS equal to 26,2 cm, can be represented as follows: 
DS = Dt.with/2 - 3,5 + 7 = 45,5/2 - 3,5 + 7 = 19,2 + 7 = 26,2 see 
Distance from the waist line to the line of landing of the pants is 1 cm the Height of seat of pants can be represented as follows: 
TN = Dt.with/2 - 3,5 + 7 - 1 or TN = Dt.with/2 - 3,5 + 6.
From this it follows that the interval TN is the sum of the segments TB = Dt.s/2 is 3.5 and BI = 6 cm As the cut AND remains the same value, the formula for determining the height of the seat of the trousers can be represented as follows: TN = Dt.with/2 - 3,5 + const 6 (for size 50, growth IV Dt.C = 45.5 cm). 
With the increase or decrease in the size of the length of the segment TB is changed to + 0.6 cm (see table). With the increase or decrease in the growth of the length of the segment is changed to TB +-0,5 cm
The multiple dimensions of male figures for the manufacture of clothing in terms of tailoring showed that some of the measurements, despite the high degree of communication with the bust, have a large amount of independent variability, particularly the waist and hips. To use the above table poluobhvat hips specific figure should be linked to the poluobhvat chest, indicated in the table.

The difference between the poluobhvat hips and poluobhvat chest for the figure the average completeness is about 2 cm, and if, for example, when poluobhvat chest SG = 48 cm poluobhvat hips SB = 52 cm, cut TB on the table to determine (subject to Dt.C) the poluobhvat chest SG = SB - 2 = 52 - 2 = 50 cm 
, depending on the manner of wearing trousers cut TB can be reduce or increase. 
Low wearing of pants cutter determines the distance from the level of the waist line to the line of landing of the trousers and for this value reduces the interval TB. 
 The height of the knee TC is determined in accordance with the distance measurement from the waist line to the knee of Dt.K, i.e., TK = Dt.K - 1 + PN (1 cm is the distance between the waist and the line of landing of the pants). 
The height of the knee with the second method, is determined by dividing the distance between the hips and bottom in half, i.e., BK = bn/2. 
From point lay up To 6 cm (point K') and hold the horizontal*. 
* If fashion dictates saugeye pants down and extension in the knee region, a line above knee, passing through the point K', not build.
 The width of the front half trousers at the level of the hip line is determined by the formula Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 52 + 2 = 28 cm, where 2 cm is the magnitude of the displacement of the side seams of the front half to the rear half. 
The width of the step front halves at the level of the hips determines the length of Б2Б21 = 0,1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(52 + 2) = 5,4 see 
the fold Line in the front half of the pants passes through the point B, located at the midpoint of the segment Б1Б21: BB1 = ББ21 = Б1Б21/2 = (28 + 5,4)/2 = 16,7 see
The width of the front halves lay down from point N. While НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm Width of the front halves at the level of a line knee length delay from the point K. the KK1 = KK2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm Through the point H1 and K1, and through the points H2 and K2 hold up straight lines that intersect with the horizontal line passing through the point K'. The point K'2 and Б21 and K'1 and B1 connect by straight lines. At the intersection of these lines with the line of the buttocks, respectively, dots H1 and Я21.
The width of the front halves of the pants on the line of the buttocks aside from the point H1 to the right (point H2). While Я1Я2 = Б1Б2. 
To construct a line of the bow from point B2 is carried up the vertical to the intersection with the horizontal line passing through the point T, at the point T2. Points B2 and H2 connect the auxiliary straight line. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я₂1 = 0,3Б2Я2. Down from the point T2 along the line Т2Б2 lay 0.5 cm (point T21). The line of the bow is carried out using point T21, B2, 1, Я21.
The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line defines the cut Т21Т1 = 0,5 SB + solution front tuck + 2 = 0.5 x 44 + 2 + 2 = 26 cm (2 cm is the magnitude of the displacement of the side seams towards the rear halves of the waist). Up from point T1 vertical lay cut Т1Т11 = 0,5...0,7, see Point T11 and B1 connect the auxiliary straight line. The deflection of the midpoint of a line Т11Б1 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Point T11 and B1 connect a smooth line. On the upper cut of the pants point T21 and T, and T11 and T connect by straight lines. From the point T to the right and to the left lay the mortar tuck or pleat.Tuck length of 7 cm, a solution of 1.5...2 cm.
To complete side stepping and cuts the front half from the middle of the lines Я1К'1 and Я21К'2 make the deflection equal to 0.3 cm. Deflection bottom line from the point N up 1 cm 

 BACK HALF of TROUSERS. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 and Н2Н4; Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2 cm (seam to the front and rear halves). 
The side and step sections of the rear halves of the pants on the lines of the knee and above the knee is determined by the segments К1К3 and К2К4; К1'K3' and K4 К2''; К1К3 = К2К4 = 2 cm; К1'K3' = K4 К2'' = 2 cm.
To the left of the point B1 on the horizontal lay cut Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + Pb) - 1 = 0,1(52 + 2) - 1 = 4,4 see Point K3' and B3 connect by a straight line. 
To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B2 up vertically, lay the cut Б2Б20 = 0,1 SB - 1,5 = 0.1 x 52 - 1,5 = 3.7 cm. 
From the point B3 with a radius equal to the width of the rear halves on the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal from the point of the G20 and at the intersection of these lines put a point B5, i.e. БЗБ5 = SB + Pb + PN - Б1Б2 = 52 + 2 + 3 - 28 = 29 see
To determine the width of the rear halves of the trousers on the buttocks line from point Я3 down the line Я3К3' lay cut Я3Я30 = Б2Б20. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants, at the hip line, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point I and the intersection of dot H4. Point Я30 and H4 connect by a straight line (Я30Я4 = БЗБ5). Video Я30Я4 intersects with the side cut the front halves at the point ЯЗ1. Through the points H4 and B5 have been holding up a line that intersects with the line of the hips at the point B4, and with the waist at the point T4.From the point T4 up on the continuation of the direct Я4Т4 lay cut Т4Т5 = Б4Б5. Cut Т4Т5 determines the balance of the pants.
From the point H4 to the horizontal to the right lay the width of the step rear halves of the pants Я4Я5 = 0,25 SB - 1 = 0.25 x 52 - 1 = 12 cm 
On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay cut Я₄2 = 1.5 cm 
From the point AM5 down vertical lay 2 cm (point AM6). The line of seats is carried out through the point T5, B5, B4, 2 and AM6. Point K4' and AM6 connect with a straight line. The deflection of the middle of the straight line К4'AM6 equal to 1.2 cm 
Through the point T11 is carried out to the left horizontal.
To determine the width of the rear half of the point T5 with a radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the waist, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point T11, and the intersection of dot T3. 
Т5Т3 = 0.5 St + 3 + Lim = 0.5 x 44 + 3 + 1 = 26 cm 3 where cm - the value of the solution back tuck; 1 cm seam allowance. 
 Note. Cut Я30Я31 should not be more than the value Б1Б3 is 1.5. If the cut Я30Я31 will be greater than this value, then the difference is added to the cut length Я30Я4.
In the manufacture of apparel according to individual orders of the rear halves of the seat connect the line T5, B5, 2, AM6. To the right of this line on the plot is given Т5Б4 allowance equal to 3 cm; plot Б4Я6 - 1 see 
Point T3 and B3 connect by a straight line. The deflection of the midpoint of a line Т3Б3 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Deflection from the middle of the bottom line (point N) is equal to 1 see 
the position of the rear tuck on the line of the upper edge of the rear halves is determined by the cut Т3Т31 = 0,5Т3Т5 = 0.5 x 26 = 13 cm 
On the perpendicular from the point T31 to a straight Т3Т5 lay down length tuck Т31К5 = 7...8 see
Line the back pocket of perpendicular lines Т31К5 and passes through the point K5. From the point K5 to the left and right delay to half the length of the pocket. The length of the rear pocket equal to 0.2 SB + 4 = 0.2 x 52 + 4 = 14,4 cm 
When you build a back pocket with two Darts on the solution of each vygotski is 2 cm From the ends of the tuck pocket located at a distance of 1 cm. the Left end of the pocket extends from the lateral cutoff distance of 5.5 - 6 cm Size of entrance of the side pocket equal to 0.2 SB + 6,5 = 0.2 x 52 + 6,5 = 16,9 cm
The angle of the side of the pocket relative to the point T11 is equal to 4 cm (below the waist by 3 cm), lower end of the pocket is the right side of the slice at a distance of 3 cm, depending on the style of pants the position of the pocket may vary.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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