The connection of the side sections
Depending on the shape of the side sections and changing their processing. When connecting items on the side of cut the shelf Board to lay the working face up, the back placed on the shelf face down, the side sections of the call, accurately aligning the reference notch. In the process of learning the side sections smatyvay on the back of a running straight stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm, retreating from the slices of 0.8 - 0.9 cm (slices smatyvay right seam from top to bottom, and the left - upward).When smachivanie make the landing of the back in the upper part at a distance of 8 - 10 cm from the cut edge of the armhole (to the first notch), creating slack tissue to the convexity of the blades. The size of the landing depends on the figure the clientele and design of the product. Then combine the reference notch at the level of the waist and hips, making the fit of the shelves for customized fit product the thighs, at the same time placed under the line ends of dolevikov from his pockets. To fit not moved and precisely aligned the notch control when smachivanie they are fastened loop-like stitches. Fit the seam sativum.Products in the straight line fit to the shelves on the hips do not.
Sew the side sections of the back side seam width of 1 cm and Then the stitches rautureau. Techniques reputazione side seam depend on the degree of fit of the product. Products straight silhouette side seams rautureau and moisturize in one step. Products in adjacent and semi-fitted silhouette razoruzhenie produced in two stages: from the armhole to the waist line and from the bottom hem to the waist, tentatively pulling the suture at the level of the waist line. When razoruzhenie make sure that the seam is not twisted and was not distended.With mass production the side sections of the shelves and backs, sew a seam 1 cm wide without smachivaniya with the necessary fit and exact checklist of nasechek.
Depending on model, the side seams can be finished with stitching, then after reputazione their iron, zametyvayut in the back side and priorivet. Perform nastroni seam on the back from the front side through the foot with a guide ruler. Joint width depends on the model.
Laying the edge on the arm openings
To protect sections of the openings of the shelves and backs from stretching, and for strength vrachevanie sleeves and save the created shape pave edge. Edge pave the openings through the shoulder cut down to 10 - 11 cm and of the back side, starting from the middle of the armhole of the backrest down the side seam to the side tuck on the shelf (if it exists). Edge paving with uniform tension, retreating from the edge by 0.5 - 0.6 cm, since the setting sleeve she needs to get into the seam. Edge can be laid in different ways: hand, machine and glue.
In manual mode, edge first primetyvajut with a little tension, and then the edges of the linen edges, sew hidden stitches with a frequency of 2 - 3 stitch 1 cm When the engine way in the delicate tissues of the outer edge of the edges pritachivajut one line at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. The inner edge remains free. With the adhesive method, the edge of the fabric with one-side adhesive coating attached with iron, retreating from the edge of the armhole by 0.2 - 0.3 cm
Digging edge at the waist
In the products of adjacent silhouette to maintain the resulting shape at the waist pave edge. For this purpose the product laid out on the table lower cut to working. Edge pave nechaevu, adhesive or in the form of a strip of cotton fabric 2 cm wide strips cut to the length of the warp threads of the fabric. Edge placed on the product, closing the waist and the inner sections of the side strips at 2 - 3 cm Edge attach manually (for on-Board padding and seam allowance), on emergency vehicles blind stitch or attach its adhesive method.
Processing of the bottom of the product
After processing the side seams, align the lower section of the coat. For this purpose the product laid out on the table, bending through the middle of the back side strips to the inside, aligning the side seams, lapels, and side and evening on the neck, shoulder and cut the arm openings. Product feature shelf right up to the edge of a Board is working. Once you have the length of the product on the back of the work move the bottom slice to a working and applied points obmeleet the bottom using a special ruler. When almalki cause two lines: the line of bending and cutting line of the bottom at a distance the magnitude of the ACC bottom coat.On the second line the excess tissue trimmed. Line the bottom of bending is transferred to the left half of the product one of the methods of transfer lines. In the UK no slots the product is laid out the lower cut to the running and levelling the line of bending, folding product in the middle of the back.
With mass production garment hem trimmed simultaneously with the trimming of the sides. Processing of the bottom of the product depends on the method of connection of the lining with the top products and fabric properties.
With unfastened lining cut hem overcast (for products made of fabric with high fall), cut out teeth on the special devices (in products of thick easypayday tissues) or edging for the finish coat (Fig. 47).
Hem zametyvayut, bending at the crest line in the direction of the inside hand straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm at a distance of 1 cm from the edge on the front side of the product or from the inside out. The second line of zamatyvala perform on the table, spreading the product by bending the bottom upward, the bottom edge to a working, aligning the seams at the line of bending and then throughout their length. The line is laid at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the edge. Cover your tracks can be produced on emergency vehicles.
The bottom coat hem on emergency vehicles blind stitch, placing the stitching along the edge or at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from it. For training purposes the bottom hem hidden hand stitches blind stitch, invisible on the front side, at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the edge, by bending the cut or hem according to the second line of zamatyvala.
In products with a stitched hem lined at the cover your first line is laid at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the line of inflection. After the adhesive is fixed to the edge of the inside hem stitches invisible from the front side, or by using the adhesive film. The second line of zamatyvala to the junction with the lining not pave.
After zamatyvala and podseleniya bottom coat priorivet from the ACC using a moistened protohellenic to complete drying. In the process of hot-filament and remove the temporary duty assignment.