Characteristics of the skirts and their classification. Skirts are to the waist products and are made complete with a jacket (suit) jacket or as a standalone product (Fig. 79). Skirts come in various shapes and silhouettes. The silhouette of the skirt are divided into direct and flared (conical). Straight skirts can be narrow and wide. Narrow skirts are made without folds, with a split hem, with single or multiple press it folds, broad - assemblies, various small press or soft pleats at the waist. Flared skirts are: "bell", "bell", "bell", "sun", etc.
Skirts vary in the number of joints: one-piece, double seam, chetyrehskatnye, testerone, vosmitonny and mnogozalny. Skirt trim with various raised seams, straps, lines, braid, embroidery, edgings, buttons, and also process pockets and on the belt of various shapes.
The clasp may be decorated with braid-zipper, hooks, buttons. The upper section of skirts is treated with a belt, grosgrain tape, facing, seam bodybu. Bottom skirts can be processed by bodybu seam, banded, finished fringe, fistname, etc. variety of models skirts, posively included, depends on the underlying item (jacket or vest).
The processing sequence of the skirts. Depending on the model, the flow of the skirt can vary. Consider the case of two models.
Model 1. The skirt is straight, smooth, double seam, narrow shape, with one pleat in the middle back of the cloth, directed from left to right. On the front and rear panels at the two Darts from the waist line. The clasp hooks into the side seam. The upper section of the skirt is processed grosgrain ribbon, bottom finished seam of bodybu. For this model of skirts provided this processing sequence:
1. Check the details of the cut.
2. Obmenka on the patterns and transferring lines from one side part to another.
3. Laying string lines along the lines of the middle of the front and rear panels, side seam (zipper) and the control signs.
4. Treatment of folds, tucks from the waist line and side seams.
5. Trimming the top and bottom slices.
6. Processing of fasteners with hooks.
7. Processing of the top slice.
8. Treatment of the lower slice.
9. Final finish.
10. Quality control processing.
Note. Treatment closure can be performed simultaneously with the processing of the side seams.
Model 2. Skirt with zipper closure flared shape consisting of eight wedges. The clasp on the braid-lightning. The upper section of a treated zone, the ends of which are fastened to the hook and loop, and the lower seam bodybu. The processing sequence of this skirt includes the following operations:
1. Check the details of the cut.
2. Finishing seams.
3. Trimming the top and bottom slices.
4. Processing of zipper.
5. Processing of the top slice.
6. Treatment of the lower slice.
7. Final finish.
8. Quality control processing.
Parts cut models 1 and 2. Skirt made up of parts of the top, lining and butt. Portions of the upper are cut out of base material. Their number, shape and cutting depend on the model of the skirt. From lining fabric cut out a skirt lining, piping for processing fasteners, burlap pockets, hangers, etc. Lining materials are selected by colour and technical properties in accordance with the fabrics at the top. Application materials include grosgrain ribbon for the processing of the upper edge of the skirt and gasket materials for sealing parts. The main parts of the cut of the skirt shown in Fig. 80.Parts cut skirts have the following names of the lines and sections: 1 - line the middle of the cloth; 2 - the lower section; 3 - a lateral slice; 4 - the upper section; 5 - front tuck; 6 - front tuck; 7 - hips; 8 - allowance for the clasp.