In the women's and children's jackets meet Welt pockets (with flap, frame, edge, with leaves), pockets relief seams and patch pockets. These pockets are treated the same way as the coat (see Chapter 1, p 7).
Patch pockets is the most common finishing elements in women's clothes and clothing for girls. Form pockets varied: simple invoices, with straps, flaps, pleats and Darts. Pocket form must be agreed with the main lines of products (Fig. 71).
The processing surface of the pocket consists of two stages: assembling the parts of the pocket and the shelf. For processing surface of the pocket, you must have the following details cut: the basic piece of top fabric 1 lining pocket - 1, dolevik - 1 and spacer in the upper edge of the pocket - 1.
Details surface-mounted pocket is connected to the shelf overlay or bridging the seam.
Processing and connection of the pocket with a mantle patch seam. There are two ways to handle this pocket.
1st method. To the main part 1 (Fig. 72, a) pockets give the following allowances for its processing: on the top slice of 3 - 3.5 cm at the side and bottom 0.5 - 0.6 cm 2 Lining cut already main part of the pocket on three sides by 0.2 - 0.3 cm for the formation of Kant and shorter by the width of the seam allowance on the top slice.
For protection of the upper edge of the pocket from stretching it strengthen Nechaeva or adhesive flange (or gasket) 3, positioning it for the upper cut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bend. Edge, or the gasket fixed manual diagonal stitches on the sanding machine or be glued with an iron.
After autoimune the top of the pocket to the lower cutoff allowance pritachivajut the lining seam width 0.7 - 1 cm, combining slices and a front side details. When participarii leave in the middle of the pass line length of 5 - 7 cm for screwing out of the pocket on the front side after grinding the slices. Iron the seam towards the lining. The pocket at the bend line of the upper edge face inward. Details pocket smatyvay from the top of the pocket, a running stitch straight stitch at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm slices, Posiva fabric in the corners.
Pocket grind from the side lining seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm with clips at the upper edge. After screwing out the front through the left hole pocket straighten, edge spawn from the lining slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1 cm, not capturing the seam. A pass in the seam connection of the lining with the main part of the pocket along the bottom edge of the hem allowance folded blind stitch stitching stitches with a frequency of 4 to 5 cm and Then in 1 pocket priorivet from the lining with pre-steaming.
A patch pocket is connected to the shelf hand stitches and decorative stitching depending on the model, pre-paving dolevik under the upper ends of the pockets.
The 2nd method. At the main part 1 (Fig. 72, b) overlay pocket on the planned line, on the reverse side is applied with glue (cut to the shape of a pocket) or nechaevu the gasket 2, which pripuskayut behind the line of the bend 1 cm, and at a distance from it equal to 0.2 cm, and fix the top strip of machine stitching. Slices SMD pocket zametyvayut gasket on three sides, with rounded corners hand-stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm.
The upper section of the pocket equate with cut of lining 3 and, combining the front side, sew a seam width of 1 cm. iron the Seam towards the lining. On the reverse side for the core part on the upper edge of the pocket impose dolevik or strips of cotton fabric. On the planned line of the pocket on a shelf face down apply a lining, cut her bends on the wrong side of the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see Scribbled detail on three sides at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the crest, and the line start (and finish) along the upper bend of 0.5 cm inside pocket.Then the main part of the pocket bend at the upper edge, positioning it on the intended line and with the inside surface of the pocket with wrong side of lining. Namachivajut pocket and scribbled on the shelf with three sides at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. Ready pocket priorivet.
Processing and connection of the pocket with a shelf bridging the seam. The allowance for processing of the upper edge of the pocket 1 (Fig. 72) along the crest line at a distance of 0.1 cm from it lay glue or nechaevu edge 2 with a little tension. Nechaevu edge sanding or fixed on a special machine. The adhesive edge is fixed an iron. Simultaneously with priduzivanja edge iron the upper edge of the pocket towards the inside, bending it along the lines of the top edge. Press the edge zametyvayut on a special machine or manual stitches. On the front of the shelves 3, finely honed chalk or dry soap outline the shape of the pocket.From inside the intended line of the pocket at a distance equal to 0.5 cm, and parallel to this line, hold the line at the same time causing the control signs. For this pocket are placed on the shelf with the wrong side up, overlapping the additional line on three sides (except the top) at the same distance from her. Identification marks are applied on each side of the corner the beginning corner on the pocket and respectively on the shelf. From the inside out shelves under the top corners of the pocket enclose dolevik. The upper section of the lining of the pocket iron towards the back, tucked his 0.7 - 1 cm.
The lining 4 pockets placed on the shelf face down, aligning the side and bottom sections with the lines of the pocket. Cuts the lining of the pocket bends in the direction of inside extra lines and scribbled on the shelf with three sides at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bend.
Pocket placed on the shelf face down, side cut butt to kink stitched lining. The top edge of the pocket should be at the level of the intended line. The pocket is connected to the shelf seam with the width of 0.5 cm, combining marks and cut with the marked line. Connection start and stop a tack. With proper connection of the pocket with a shelf from the inside of the shelves must pass two parallel lines with the distance between them is 0.6 cm
Lining pocket along the upper edge sutured to the primary blind stitch stitching with a frequency of 3 to 4 stitch per 1 cm of the Upper corners of pockets secured along manually bending the 0.7 - 0.8 cm away from the side length 2 - 2.5 cm, capturing the gasket and hiding slices of primaqiune pocket. Pocket can be fixed to the finishing line, then the ends of the pocket clips.