Wet-heat processing of the product before connecting the lining
In the individual production of clothing in front of the connection pad produce wet-heat treatment of the product. The lack of lining on the product allows to perform the Ironing processing of the product from the inside out for the entire area of the coat and under the seam. Wet-heat processing of the product before connecting the lining and the final finishing of the product are in direct proportion. With high-quality Ironing processing to its connection with the lining finishing confined to a small proterivanja and steam.
Wet-heat treatment of the product can be divided into three stages: the Ironing processing of the openings, prutivka (pressing) of the regional sections and prutivka the entire surface coat. Armhole priorivet lifts the shoulders, starting from the bottom and consistently moving the iron for 10 - 12 see Iron through the humidified protohellenic, holding the side surface of the iron to a depth of 2 - 2.5 cm inside of the top part.
Regional areas of product priorivet (pressed) by means of an iron or press for two. The first reception priorivet edge of the upper part of the product from the front side, the second bottom from the inside out. In products with a zip up lapel Ironing processing starting from the left lapel of the shelves, then priorivet departure of the collar and lapel then the right of the shelf (Fig. 62, a). The area of the lapel priorivet simultaneously with the end of the collar, straightening details form, taking into account their mutual arrangement. The departure of the collar priorivet without going over the crest line of the rack.In products with a zipper top, the first receiving priorivet only the collar, the second intake - side and the bottom of the product, starting from the left side (Fig. 62, b).
Ironing processing of the entire surface coat start on the left shelves, expanding the product of the upper part of the left. First priorivet the upper part of the coat to the waist or hips depending on the degree of process by grabbing the shoulder seam. Work is done on the Ironing table or on spetsnaladka. Prituri lower part of the left shelves, the product is transferred and begin to prithwijit the upper back. Finish wet-heat treatment on the right shelf.
At the same time coat produisait under the seam, under podborany, side strip and under the burlap pockets. In order to avoid misalignment of the parts during the adhesive, especially after steaming, Ironing processing is performed in one direction, gradually increasing the pressure as drying. Drying produce to remove moisture, which is essential for the set.
The finishing line at the boundary areas of the coat
Coat with lapel clasp to the finishing line at the edge of a Board performed simultaneously with the finishing line at the ends and fly collar. The work is produced in two steps with a breakage of the thread: first, lay the line along the upper escape part of the product (lapel, collar) on the part of podborov and upper collar, and then at the Board from the shelves. Finishing line at the edge of the lapel and the collar starts from the lower inflection point of the lapel to the right shelf and finish at the end of the left lapel of the shelves. Finishing line the starboard side running from the end of the lapel to bottom, and left side - from the bottom up.The number of lines, size of stitches, finishing of the thread should match the coat.
When the finishing line of transition from the lapel on the collar is carried out in different ways, depending on the drawing model. When attaching the ends of the threads clean inside. Coat with zipper top finishing stitching on the collar are laid from the top of the collar and on the side - the entire length from the shelves.
In the presence of the finishing stitches on the bottom of coat it is performed simultaneously with the lines along the sides at the front side of the product in one go.
The connection pads with the product
In the manufacture of products for individual orders tailoring to produce pieces with different posture. Depending on the model and figures from the client in a coat can be applied only to the upper back or shoulder pads or both. Back and upper shoulder pads are attached to the product before connecting it to the lining.
Rear the shoulder pads are placed along the armholes, aligning their slices with slices seam vrachevanie sleeves. The upper end of the lining equalize with the shoulder seam and the bottom should reach the side strip shelves. Primetyvajut lining a single line in the middle parallel to the armhole down from the shoulder seam manual stitch length 4 - 5 cm Upper ends of the rear shoulder of the pads attached to the side strip at the level of the shoulder seams or hand stitches on emergency vehicles blind stitch. The lower ends of the strips sewn to the side strip to the Darts and to the allowances of the side seams.When processing openings marking the lines of the strip attached to the seam allowances vrachevanie sleeves.
The top features shoulder pads between the lining and the gasket. The middle linings combine with the shoulder seam of the product, equalizing the outer edge of the slices seam vrachevanie sleeves. Sew lining from sleeve hand stitches marking the length of 1 - 1.5 cm or on emergency vehicles. The line should pass at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam vrachevanie sleeves. The inner upper sections of the shoulder pads sew to allowances of shoulder seams and the side seal blind stitch stitches.
Podomatic feature between the top part of the sleeves and seam Tachibana directed toward the sleeves, the distance from the anterior to the elbow shoals. Podomatic necessary to shape the top part of the sleeve. The thickness of podosinnikov depends on the mode. Podomatic have from the sleeve, equating sealed his cut slices seam vrachevanie. Attach podomatic marking a line with the length of stitch 1.2 - 1.5 cm under vrachevanie or off highway. Podomatic bend in half and fold it connect with the arm at the level of the shoulder seam.When razmalyvanie the openings the ends of podomatic, below the line of the front and elbow rifts, not fixed. For a more qualitative performance of works it is recommended to first attach podomatic, and then the upper shoulder pads.