Cutting the shelves
by trimming the lapels and the sides give the necessary form provided by the model. Before cutting the shelves carefully priorivet for the tight connection of the fabric top side with gasket. Wet-heat treatment is performed from the side of strip of each shelf separately, the same techniques that before connecting the shelves with the side strip. The side strip is cut at the level of sections of shelves on top for the armhole, shoulder cut, neckline, lapel, side and bottom. Each shelf is cut separately.
For the task of trimming the top shelves fold side strips inside, equalizing sections, Darts, Princess seams and pockets, the right one shelf up, cuts the Board to a working.
In the individual production of clothing drawing chalk lines on the right shelf performs the cutter with regard to their refinement during the fitting. Obmelel lapel of the patterns, or lines, obtained by fitting begin to spray the cut side on the line along the warp threads. Then specify the bottom line with regard to the length of the product (Fig. 30). Loop space, depending on the location of the buttons.
For hiding edges (in products with an open clasp) is applied to the line of inflection lapel. Omelko perform finely honed chalk flush with the edge of patterns, cut two shelves on the inner edge of the chalk line with scissors No. 2, 3, or oznacovani machine OM-3. The fabrics in striped and plaid trim operate separately of each shelf. Chalk line of inflection lapel and hem line are transferred to the left shelf light pressure or tapping, for this shelves fold right sides inwards, equating all of the slices.The line of inflection lapel transferred to the side of the side strip and on the bottom lay a string line.
In serial and mass production trim produce with sacanime side sections. During trimming use utility curves for drawing lines of the neck, the lapel, side, hem and loops. The patterns are applied so that the under side of the strip was visible slice shelves on 0,5 - 0,7 cm At the bottom of the garment is applied to two lines of bending and shear. On the cut the excess fabric cut off.
After pruning of the side strip is cut out by sections of the lapels on the sides and on the bottom of the following widths: when grinding the sides near the edge - at the mouth of 0.9 - 1.2 cm; shoulder and lapel 0.7 - 0.9 cm; in the sides of 0.9 - 1.1 cm; bottom: 0.3 cm above the line of bending the bottom; when grinding the sides of the flange in the neck of 0.8 - 1.1 cm; shoulder and lapels, as well as in the sides of 0.6 - 0.8 cm; bottom: 0.1 cm above the bottom; in products with closed buckle side strip cut in the cliffs and on the part of the lapel as well as in the sides.
Loops in the coat have a functional and aesthetic purpose. Depending on the model handle for hanging or a Welt loop. Hanging loops are made from top fabric or cord. Welt loops can be obraznymi or obratnymi.
Hanging loop of cord vetochnogo (Fig. 31). Curtain loops, cut the facing at an angle of 45' to the warp threads of the fabric in length on one or several loops. The width of the piping depends on the width of the loop is taken equal to 2 - 2,5 cm Obtachku bend in half inside out and sew along the fold to the width of the loop in finished form 0.3 - 0.7 cm, depending on tissue thickness. Line begin to lay slices gradually to the required width of the loop ready-made, forming an extension to facilitate the screwing out.
When viversani loop, use a thick needle and thread No. 10 or 20. Securing a bend in the piping folded end of the doubled thread, with a blunt end to hold a needle and her thread inside the loop. As you pull the needle is viverravidae loop (Fig. 31, a). For screwing out using devices of mechanization. Loops should be dense, hard and thin. Loop ready connection, cutting them a certain length depending on the diameter of the buttons.
When connecting to the product loop is placed on the cut side (in accordance with the model of coat), seam up or inside the loop (Fig. 31, b). Slices loops equalized with the cut side and fixed machine stitch, or 6 - 8 hand stitches at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the slices so that the line was inside the seam allowance, grinding of the side.
Obecnie loop. The location of the hinges is marked during the trimming of the sides and bottom of the shelves. Of the hinge to the edge of the Board can be positioned horizontally, vertically and inclined. The length of the loop is scheduled more buttons diameter 0.3 - 0.5 cm Obecnie loops treated with obrazkami of a fabric top with a receiving edge on the front side with a width of 0.15 - 0.2 cm on each side along the loop. Transverse hinge side can be finished at a right or oblique angle.
There are the following ways of processing oblachnykh hinge: machining hinge in Kant (with one or two obrazkami); processing loop in Kant "eye" and processing loops in the frame (with one or two obrazkami). The choice of method of processing loop depends on the density of the fabric, its thickness, the relief pattern, the presence of lint, etc. Processing oblachnykh loops consists of two stages: first handle loop on the main details and then after the connection of podborta cut and sew the loop side podborta.
Loops in Kant, with one facing. To handle loops in Kant a necessary one facing, cut a length of warp threads of the fabric, of a width of 5-6 cm and a length greater than the length of a loop of 1.5 - 2 cm on each side. On the side strip specify the start and end of the loop, put additional lines on each side of the loop at a distance from it equal to the width of Kant. The distance between the extreme longitudinal lines is equal to the width of the two edges (Fig. 32, a).
On the front side of the product face apply a facing, combining a line of mid-piping with line loops and overlapping the ends facing the hinges on 1.5 - 2 cm on each side. Loop grind along the planned lines from the side of the strip with the clips at the beginning and the end. The lines should be parallel and end at the same level (if sloping loops are allowed different levels of the ends of the lines).
After grinding the cut the loops facing initially in the middle between the lines, and then from the side of the strip. The cut running from the middle in one direction and then in the other direction, ending at the 0.5 - 0.6 cm from the ends of the loop and making incisions in the side lines, reaching them by 0.1 cm (Fig. 32, b).
Piping turn via a loop hole in side of side strip, round the cut edges and spawn on the shelf at a distance of 0.1 cm from the line of primaqiune piping to the shelf. The edges of the loops connect back to back with the front side slanted stitches and secure the ends of the loop of double machine stitching on the reverse side of the base corners (Fig. 32). Loop priorivet from the underside of the shelves. Piping trimmed around, leaving a 1.5 - 2 cm on each side, and sew it to the side laying oblique hand stitches with a frequency of 2 stitch of 1 cm (Fig.32, g) or on a special blindstitch machine.
Continue the processing loop after connections podborta with the product. Before cutting holes the hinges on podborta last primetyvajut around the loop at a distance of 2 - 2.5 cm from her hand slanted stitches. The ends of the loops from the shelf on podbot transferred with the help of pins. From podborta, focusing on the ends of the pins, chalk is applied to the line of the cut loops and the ends. The loop on podborta cut as well as on the shelf. Cuts loops bends inward at the four sides and hem stitches blind stitch with a frequency of 8 - 10 stitches per 1 cm without zamatyvala (Fig. 32,d).Processed loops priorivet from podborta.
Such loops can be performed in two obrazkami, primativa them from the front side of the product.
Loops in Kant with the "eye". The processing of this loop (Fig. 33, a) performed similar to the processing loop in Kant, described above. Its feature is the following: when applying the line loop from the side of the strip obmeleet "eye". The loop is cut from the middle in the direction of "eye", cutting all of the fabric (the side strip, the front and the facing), the "eye" cut in 5 - 6 points, not reaching a line of 0.1 cm (Fig. 33, b). The rest of the loop is cut in two steps: first, facing in the middle to the end, and then loop from the side of the strip, as described above.When the inflorescence emerge "eye" the width of the edging shall not exceed 0.1 cm
Hinges in the frame with one facing. The location of the loops scheduled during the cutting of the shelves. An additional line loop in one and the other side at a distance from it equal to the width of two frames is applied to the auxiliary lines for applying thereto bends obracac (Fig. 34, a).
For handling loops requires a facing, cut a length of warp threads of the fabric are longer loops of 1.5 - 2 cm on each side, width of 6 - 7, see One of the longitudinal sections of piping that bends towards the inside of 2.5 - 3 cm and scribbled on the shelf along the fold at a distance equal to the width of the frame across the length of the loop.
The second side of the piping bends the same way, stacking it along the crease chalk line. Obtachku scribbled along the fold at a distance from it equal to the width of the frame (Fig. 34, b). Cutting loops and further processing performed as described above.
The processing loop in a frame with two obrazkami performed similar to the processing loop with a single facing, primativa piping alternately.
Obecnie loop is treated after the final machining of the boards.
The laying edge
To consolidate the forms created by the Darts and a wet-heat treatment, as well as to protect the edges of the sides and the hem from stretching during wear pave edge. The edge feature in the upper part of the level of the inflection of the lapel along the cut of the neck, the lapel, the side and bottom of the product length of 30 cm from the corner of the Board, and for products made of cotton fabrics and baby products at least 15 - 20 cm In jewelry clasp to the lapel to ensure a snug fit shelves to the shape and protection of inflection of the lapel from stretching during wear under the lapel parallel to the inflection of pave edge.In products with zipper top edge behind the bend of the lapel does not lay.
The edges can be glue and not a glue. As the adhesive is applied to the edge of the linen, half-linen or striped cotton cloth with a width of 1 - 2 cm in Nechaeva edges use a variety of methods thread mounting (Fig. 35). When grinding the sides along the edge of the inner edge of its fixed on emergency vehicles blind stitch (Fig. 35, a). When grinding the sides near the edge of the edge can be mounted on emergency vehicles blind stitch (Fig. 35 in) or manual slant blind stitch stitch length 0.3 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 35,b).In front of the laying edge, it must be proektirovanii.
Edge primetyvajut line in the middle hand straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm from the fixation landing loop-like stitches back needle. On the right shelf edge primetyvajut from the top down and on the left side from the bottom up, overlapping side strip, for 0,2 - 0,3 cm Edge can be primitivity off highway. When routing edges in the products with the clasp to the lapel edge of a Board can be divided into seven sections, with zipper top - six (Fig. 36, a, b).
1-m plot (slice the neck from the inflection of the lapel to the start of the ledge) edge laid with a tension to protect the neckline from stretching.
At the 2nd station (the cut ledge of the lapel on either side at equal distance from the corner of the lapel) edge feature with the same tension to maintain the shape of the lapel, obtained during trimming of planting of 0.1 cm to 10 cm in length.
At the 3rd plot (the cut of the lapel) to the edge priporashivajut top fabric, and by the middle of the landing area increase, and by the end negated. The size of the landing depends on the shape of the bulge of the breast, the shape of the lapel and the fabric. Determine the magnitude of the landing, bending the edge of a Board on the lines of prosanos.
On the 4th section (from the end of the 3rd length of 3 - 4 cm above the first loop on the edge side) edge are laid without tension, to allow the inflection of the lapel.
5-m plot (between the hinges) edge primetyvajut fit with the top fabric between each pair of loops.
At the 6th station (the cut side) edge of pave, Posiva shelf by 0.2 - 0.3 cm
On the 7-m site (at the bottom of the product section length of 30 cm) edge paving, Posiva shelf by 0.2 - 0.3 see All these techniques you need to learn for students. In the future, when they gain skills and following the correct wet-heat processing of the shelves edge can be laid with a uniform tension or planting on the plots, depending on the design.
Then validate primitivne edge. For this, a shelf positioned on the table Board to a working (Fig. 36). The edge of a Board to bend in the direction of the shelves under the line of prosanos. From the lower end of the line of inflection of the lapel to bottom of the shelves cut the boards must be parallel to the line of prosanos, and the cut of the hem at the level of its crest should be the same. Then check the fit of the edge at the top of the Board (the chest). To do this, under the bulge of the breast shelves down the palm of his left hand, the cut of the lapel should be evenly round the bulge of the breast.The degree of diffraction and the location of the cut of the lapel judged on the correct location of the edges at the respective sites.
Edge of paving, stepping back from the breakline of the lapel to the side of the shelf 0.5 - 1 cm the Upper end edge of the release by 2 - 3 cm behind the line of the neck and left free to the final treatment of the neck (see Fig. 36, a). The lower end of the edge should not reach the first loop in about 3 to 4 cm Edge primetyvajut with planting shelves 0.4 - 0.5 cm, increasing towards the centre and gradually reducing to nothing the ends of the plot. On the left shelf edge for the bend of the lapel lay by the same rules, but from the bottom up.Edge behind the bend of the lapel can be constructed without primitivne one line in the middle on emergency vehicles blind stitch.
Before suturing the edges need to check the Board lengthwise. The right and left side shelves folded strip inside. Control in weight, holding shelves at the ends of the line of prosanos. The right shelf needs to be longer than the left 0.5 - 0.7 cm and Then edge hem blind stitch hem manual stitches invisible from the front side. The inner edge of the edge can be filed off highway blindstitch. The products thick fabric, edge hem is allowed on both sides of emergency vehicles blind stitch.In products from fine fabrics to grind the bead on the outer edge and the inner edge of the hem on emergency vehicles blind stitch.
After removal of the bone a temporary assignment at the edge of the Board priorivet. The product is positioned on the table cut side to the working side strip up. First through wet protohellenic steamed slice the side, then straighten in the steamed condition lapels, side and bottom of the product. Prutivka perform up to the complete drying and fixation of the desired shape.
Glue the edge of the paving in accordance with the requirements relating to the laying Nechaeva edge. When routing edges with double-sided adhesive coating her features, combining the middle with the cut side of the strip. Advisable to carry the connecting edge with the workpiece on the press, which previously edge secured with iron for 10 seconds on each area, and then steamed and pressed. In the absence of the press edge secured with iron, in the beginning without moisture, and then steaming for 30 - 40 seconds (the time required for a solid attachment of the edges).
In products with a shift podborany (Fig. 37) the edge of the paving according to the requirements specified for the construction of the edge products with a cutting podborany. Edge clips, short 0.1 cm to the line of inflection shift of podborta. To seal the edge and create extra thickness cut side strips, it is recommended to restart the line for the edge of the Board in the direction of podborta 1 cm
Podborta is a piece of main fabric, which is treated with lapels, side; they are located on the inner side of the product. Design podborta are cutting and tselnokrajnie with shelves. Cutting podborta can be a single cut shoulder with the upper half of the collar. Piece of podborta with the zipper top feature along the entire length of the Board. Coat with a zip up lapel top podborta on the part of the lapel cut of the cutting, and the lower tselnokrajnie with shelf.
When cutting the cutting podborov guided by the shape of the lapels, sides, shelves, given the type of fastener. Podborta can have extensions, but not more than two on each podborta. The seams of the supers are arranged in transverse or oblique (beveled not more than 5 cm) direction, no closer than 3 cm from the hinges. The first extension feature below the first side of the loop 3 shown in the Lower extension cut length less than 6 cm.
When cutting out podborov to coat with clasp to the lapel on the lapel sections provide an allowance for getting Kant out of podborta, bending the edge of the Board and creating a free location podborta in lapel in accordance with the model. The amount of the allowance depends on the tissue thickness and width of Kant. The average allowance is equal to from 1 to 1.5 cm In the region of the neck of podborta cut in a straight line from the end of ledge until the angle of the neck and shoulder cut. Allowed offset from the corner points of 2 cm at the shoulder cut in the side of openings.Coat with notch lapels raskep line must be a continuation of the line of the ledge of the lapel. Length of podborov long cut on side 2 - 3 cm.
Podborta products with zipper top cut out the shape of the Board. In products made of fabric with stripes or a cage podborta cut out so that the strip is held parallel to the outer slice podborta. The convex line of the outer cut of the lapel is given by stygiana internal cut podborta on the level of the center of convexity of the breast (the amount of stivania depends on the shape of the lapel). To podborta pritachivajut extension seam width of 0,7-1 cm, equating the slices. If the fabric is patterned, then adjust the strips, then stitches rautureau until snug and at the same time priorivet whole podbot.After the wet-heat treatment of podborov them specify support templates.
Connection podborta with shelves
Cutting podborta connect with shelves on the cut side obecnym seam with subsequent consolidation (avoid moving parts) finishing line or internal vspuchivanie. The lower edge of the Board may be treated with unfastened and with a fixed podborta. Podborta with shelves connect on emergency vehicles without prior namachivanija or namachivayam of podborov before grinding.
Namachivaya of podborov. Podborta namachivajut on the table, what is the shelf lay faceup cut the Board to a working. On top of the side part of the shelf face down impose podbot, releasing slices, relative to slices of the shelves on the part of the lapel on the value of 1 - 1.5 cm (open the clasp), on a plot Board cuts call. At the same time check the location of podborta in the region of the neck. On the left shelf podbot namachivajut top to bottom, on the right side from the bottom up.
In the educational process in namatanai cut podborta can be divided into 5 sections in accordance with different connection requirements (Fig. 38, a).
The first line of namachivanija lay on the bisector of the angle of the lapel straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm, not reaching the angle on the 2 3 see the Second line of namachivanija performed along the cut of the lapel and cut of the side slant stitch length 2 - 2.5 cm distance from the edge side 1 - 1.5 cm so that the stitches do not fall under the line of stitching around the side.
1-m plot in the ledge of the lapel on the other side of the line of namachivanija due to the shift of the cutoff podborta inside form a slack of the fabric. Planting podborta necessary for obtaining Kant, diffraction edges and the free placement of podborta on the part of the lapel. On the 2nd section of the cut of the lapel slack podborta place with a gradual increase to the center and decreasing to the loop. The value of landings is the result of free diffraction bumps on chest internal cut podborta when you move it up.3-m plot in the region of the loops when the loops oblachnykh podbot pokazyvaut for uniform fit of the inner cut podborta to the shelf. On the 4th plot on the cut side of podbot placed evenly. In the b-m plot at the end of the Board podbot slightly pull to the edge of a Board at the bottom had not unbent during wear of the product.
In the processing side of the fabrics with stripes and cage podborta namachivajut to fit a symmetrical pattern along the edge of the Board. Podborta namachivajut straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm from the fixation landing sites.
In products with zipper top landing podborta on the lapel are not fulfilled. After namachivanija sativum planting podborta the cut of the lapel and sides to ensure even suture line when grinding the side. Sutivana produce the edge of iron at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the edge, not across the width of podborta. Iron it does not conduct, and rearrange to move the resulting fit not to press the pleats.
Grinding the sides. The seam connection podborta with a shelf needs to be performed with high accuracy, as this determines the final shape of the lapel and sides. To do this, before grinding for utility patterns omelet from the side of the strip the angles of the lapels and bottom. When grinding the corner of the lapel in jewelry clasp to the lapel stitching is on the planned line, then near the edge and, starting from the first loop to the bottom of the shelves, at a distance of 0.2 cm from edge. In products with zipper top line of grinding passes at a distance of 0.2 cm from the outer edge of the edge (Fig. 38, b).The beginning and end of stitch fix. Right shelf grind from the bottom up, left - down. When grinding is necessary to monitor ravnote lines, a uniform yarn tension and frequency of stitches.
In products from fine fabrics grinding the sides fulfill at the edge, retreating 0.1 cm from its outer edge. In mass production for grinding Board used a special purpose vehicle 206 KL PMZ. Grinding the produce without prior namachivanija of podborov and a simultaneous trimming of the seam grinding.
Treatment of the lower corners of the boards. The bottom corners of the boards are treated with unfastened or fastened with podborta. To obtain unfastened podborta it is necessary that the lower sections of podborov was at the lower sections of the shelves. When grinding the sides at the same time makes the slices allowances on ACC shelves and podborta seam 1 cm wide, not reaching the inner cut podborta 3 cm (Fig. 39, a). Then grind the inner section of podborta from the bottom line in finished form, not reaching 1.5 cm to the shear of the seam allowance to podborta. The width of the seam grinding is 0.5-1 cm depending on the method of the connection pads (Fig. 39, b).
When connecting, the lining bridging the seam width seam grinding is the width of the bridging seam. When connecting the lining with piped sections of podborov joint width equal to the width of the machining of the edging seam. At the end of the line grinding, make the notch on podborta and the allowance for his ACC to a depth equal to the width of the seam. Razoruzhenie seam side grinding is performed over the entire length except for the bottom seam. At the same time rautureau seam grinding internal cut podborta. In the further processing of the boards produce processing bottom corners (straighten, spawn, priorivet; Fig. 39).
When processing the lower corner of the side with fixed podborta grinding is performed by the bottom line bending on the plot with length equal to the width of podborta, parallel to the edge. Seams, grinding of the sides of moisturize and rautureau on a special pad, which ends with sharp corners, or of the press speciously. To ensure high quality processing side, it is necessary to maintain a straight line, evenly spread out the Board on the block, and straightened the seam in the corners. Then the seams of a grinding undercut, leaving from the shelves and in the corners of the lapels of 0.3 cm, and from podborov 0.4 cmAt the end of the ledges of the lapels make the notch perpendicular to the line of the neck, not reaching line of stitching around 0.1 - 0.2, see the products from thick dense tissue slices seam side shelves and podborta equally undercut, leaving a seam allowance equal to 0.2 - 0.3 cm, and then thinning the edge of the Board and lapel seam loosen.
Finally, the seam grinding bead fix or uspeshnoi finishing line. When machining the edge of the Board without finishing stitches seam cuts, grinding of the sides are cut leaving 0.5 - 0.6 cm from podborta and 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the side shelves. To screwing out podborov slices seam side podborta manually attach blind stitch slant stitch length of 0.7 - 0.8 cm (Fig. 40, a) or on emergency vehicles, as well as using the adhesive film or the adhesive thread (in mass production). When viversani of podborta the corners of the lapels and straighten spawn.Lapels to the first loop spawn from the shelves at a distance from the edge is 0.5 - 0.6 cm, straightening edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm depth - side podborov with piping with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm along the bottom spawn on the intended line bending at a distance of 10 - 20 cm from the edge of the Board. Length of the slanting stitches at the inflorescence emerge is 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 40,b). To lay you on timetoknow machine PMZ class 2222. In products with zipper top side spawn from podborov.
When attaching the side of the finishing line after grinding and trimming the slices seam podbot turn on the front side, straightening the corners of the peg, and spawn side in the same sequence as the handling of the bead without stitch finishing. Then the sides and bottom priorivet: lapels with side shelves and side - side podborov. To get thin edge of the Board and lapel wet-heat treatment is performed through a moistened protohellenic iron or press.
In products with a shift podborany after wet-heat processing of the shelves outlining the crest line of the bead. This line is necessary to trim the side strip on the side and stitching the edges. On the planned line bend podbot face inside, combining it with a shelf, and grind on the ledge of the lapel and bottom. Spawn side hand slanted stitches or off highway. Processing bottom, prutivka and mounting Board produced in the same way as in products with cutting podborany.
Processing obecnych loops. Loop scheduled on the line or the auxiliary pattern in accordance with the model. To mark loops you can use a special device, mounted on the loop-overlock machine. Loop on lapels are scheduled from the shelves, and on the sides by podborta. Markup perform finely honed chalk. For protection from fraying strands of the side strip under the hinge arrangement is applied emulsion. Loop on special overcast stitch machines with silk threads in color with the main material of the product. The end loops clips straight clip on emergency vehicles or hand stitches.