Trim sides and bottom of the perform as indicated in Chapter 1, p 9.
The laying edge. Techniques paving edge along the edge of the Board in the processing of the jacket are the same as in the processing of the coat (see Chapter 1, p 9). The jackets from fabrics containing synthetic fibers, instead of a linen edging lay the strip of cotton fabric cut to the length of the weft yarn width is 2.5 - 3 cm, the Strip is fixed simultaneously with the grinding side. With this method, changing the carving of the side strip at the edge of a Board. When the clasp to the lapel laying on the lapel cut into 0.5 - 0.7 cm, on a Board - by 0.7 - 0.9 cm, and bottom line - at the level of the ACC.When the zipper top strip across the Board cut of 0.7 - 0.9 cm, and bottom line - at the level of the ACC.
Namachivaya of podborov and turning sides. Namachivaya of podborov perform as well as coat, limiting landing on podborta (see Chapter 1, p 9).
Before grinding the side obmeleet its upper and lower corners on the patterns, the shape of which depends on the model. The sides and the lapels turned exactly according to the planned lines, simultaneously securing the strips of fabric for the outer cut. Internal cut strips of fabric secured on emergency vehicles blind stitch.
In products without a finishing line to ensure the stability of the edge of the Board in the process of socks seam grinding bead attached to the side seal on emergency vehicles blind stitch, or by using the adhesive film. In products with zipper top all seam grinding Board, you can Topstitch on podbot on the front side at a distance of 0.2 - 03 cm, from the seam grinding, not reaching the corners for about 3 to 4 cm of the Thread should be matched in color with the main fabric (Fig. 73, a). Products in the clasp to the lapel on the part of the lapel seam allowance scribbled on a shelf, on the edge of the Board as to podbot.At the end of the lapel seam stock netscout (Fig. 73, b). With this method the seams, grinding of the sides does not rautureau.
The inflorescence emerge and prutivka the sides of the jackets carry out the same as in the coat (see Chapter 1, p 9).
Treatment of the lower corners of the boards when joining the lining with the product at the bottom of the jacket by machine. In the process of namachivanija podborov on shelves trimmed lower sections of podborov. For this, nametag podbor only along the cut sides, the lower sections of podborov and allowance for bending the bottom of the jacket call. Then the lower section of podborta divide the width in half and cut up from the bottom lay twice the width of the edging at the bottom of the jacket (with a width of Kant lay 0.5 cm 1 cm, with a width of Kant 0.7 cm and 1.4 cm). The line connecting the resulting points (in the middle of podborta and internal slice), cut the bottom corner of podborta (Fig. 74, a).Continuing namachivaya of podborta on a shelf on the lower section, along the width of podborta tighten beveled cut podborta, equating it with the bottom cut shelves. When grinding the Board down the line from a corner execute allowance for ACC, shifting it from internal cut podborta width Kant (0.5 - 0.7 cm) from the hem. The line should not reach the internal cut podborta 1.5 cm (Fig. 74 b). The inflorescence emerge bottom corners of the sides fulfill the bottom line.
In the result of a change in grinding the side hem so the edge width 0.5 - 0.7 cm at the inner cut podborta (Fig. 74, in). With this method of processing the lower corners of the boards creates a loose arrangement of internal sections of podborov that allows you to connect the lining by machine first podborany, and then on the bottom without the use of hand stitches.