Depending on the model clasps in skirts can be different: a zipper, hooks or buttons. Length of fasteners should be equal to 18 - 20 cm
This buckle has a number of advantages compared to other types of buckles, beautiful appearance, convenient operation, easy processing. Work the clasp at the top of the left side seam, the middle seam of the front and rear panels. Securing woven tape zipper perform at the front side of the finishing line in two ways: at the same distance from both sides of the line of the side seam and spacing; row lay silk threads in the fabric colour of the product with odnorazovoe foot pre primitivna.Parts of the zipper when the connection must be hidden under the seam allowances. Treatment closure performed with sacanime, serged, razoruzhenie side seams and press slices of the clasp.
Treatment of the clasp of the skirt when attaching the zipper with the same distance units from the bends. For primitivne zipper skirt positioned on the table face up, top cut to the right, the left side seam to a working. Under the seam allowance on the clasp side of the rear cloth skirts enclose the right side of the zipper when open so that the edge units have not reached the bend allowance for the clasp on the reverse side of 0.1 cm, and the upper edge of the castle located at the distance of 1.5 cm from the upper edge of the skirt. Primitivna perform the face down at a distance of 0.5 - 0.6 cm from the edge of the straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm with periodic pinning lines.
Then the zipper closed, fold the seam allowance on the clasp from the front panel put butt to fold the seam allowance on the clasp from the back of the cloth, equating the upper sections, and fasten the front panel with a zipper with two or three pins in the transverse direction. Zipper open, call the location of the links relative to the seam allowance fold on the clasp as well as on the rear panel. Primetyvajut second side of the woven tape zipper up from the bottom on the front side.
Pritachivajut woven tape, starting from the upper edge of the front panel and terminating at the upper edge of the rear cloth at a distance from the bends of 0.6 - 0.8 cm, to ensure the free passage of the lock buckle (Fig. 81, a). The lower end of the fastener clips, departing at 0.5 cm from the end parts of the zipper. Stitching may be provided perpendicular to or at an angle to the line of fasteners (according to model). The inner edge of the woven tape zipper scribbled on the allowances of the side seam at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edges of the tape.Simultaneously with nastraivanie fix the lower sections of the ribbon, turning them inside on 0,5 - 0,7 cm.
Treatment of the clasp of the skirt when attaching the zipper with an offset units under the front panel of the skirt. Preparing the skirt to the handling of the clasp is the same as described above. Press it under the fold of the rear cloth skirts enclose the right part of the woven tape zipper in expanded form so that the fold of the seam allowance on the clasp was located at the butt to the links of the lightning, and the castle was at the distance of 1.5 cm from the upper edge of the skirt. Primitivna perform top-down at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm with periodic pinning lines of loop-like stitches.
Primatv the right side of the woven tape, primetyvajut left. This zipper closed, fold the seam allowance on the clasp from the front cloth butt down to the crease of the seam allowance on the clasp side of the rear cloth skirts and chop three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and zipper. When chipping equalize the upper sections of front and rear panels of the skirt and create a single line of the side seam. Then the zipper open and inside specify the parallelism of the location of the links relative to the bend.The left part of the woven tape zipper primetyvajut from the inside of the skirt at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the links from top to bottom, sequentially removing the pins.
Primaqiune performed from the front side at one time from the upper edge of the front cloth to the upper edge of the rear cloth (Fig. 81, b).
The front part of the zipper is fastened at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm, focusing on the stitches primitivne. On the back panel of the skirt the stitching is laid at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold. The transition from front to rear panel is carried out at a distance of 0.5 cm from the bottom edge of the chain links perpendicularly or at an angle to the line of fasteners (according to model). When you run line should be ensured free passage of the lock zipper. The inner edge of the woven tape zipper fixed, as described above.
Treatment of the clasp of the skirt with the full closing of the parts of the zipper. Feature of processing of such clasps is securing the zipper with an offset under the front panel of links in the right side of the woven tape of 0.3 - 0.5 cm relative to the line of the side seam. The allowances of the side sections of the fastening area can be increased to 3 - 3.5 cm along the lines of the clasp on the extension of the side seam lay string lines. During reputazione side seams iron only cut clasp front panel to side seam line, focusing on a model line.Cut clasp back the cloth that bends towards the inside, releasing the allowance relative to the line of the side seam of 0.3 - 0.5 cm, zametyvayut and iron. Under the crease enclose the right part of the woven tape zipper when open so that the crease came at the butt to the links of zipper, and the lock located at the distance of 1.5 cm from the upper edge of the skirt. Zipper primetyvajut along the entire length top to bottom parallel to the side seam at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold.
Then the right part of the woven tape zipper pritachivajut from the bottom up at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold, providing free movement of the lock buckle. Zipper close and press the fold of the seam allowance on the clasp to the front panel of the skirt down to the line of the side seam, equating the upper sections and saliva their pins.
Chipping and primitivna left side woven tape zipper performed as described above. Pritachivajut the left side of the woven tape at the front side of the front cloth from top to bottom, under primitivne. Finished double-triple transverse line perpendicular to the line of the side seam or at an angle thereto (Fig. 81,). Further processing of the fasteners is performed, as described above. For the stability of the fastener and enhance the appearance along the fold of the front perform a finishing line at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.
Closure skirt hooks
The hook handle into the side seam, one-way pleat on the left side of the skirt, or the middle seam of the back cloth. For processing fasteners necessary allowances to the front and rear panels with a length of 19 - 21 cm and a width of 3 to 4 cm or the width of the folds. Allowances can be tselnokrajnie with a cloth or Podkayne, but the same width. Slices allowances are treated obecnym or edging stitch.
A fastener treated before grinding or after grinding sections of panels of the skirt or pleats.
Processing clasp with shift allowances on the side seam. The side sections of the grind, overcast, seams rautureau (without processing of the fastening area). Along the lines of the zipper (on the continuation of the side seam) to navigate thread stitching straight stitches. On the sections of the clasp is required to protect the cuts and folds from stretching, and to ensure the durability of the sewing hooks. The implementation of these requirements is achieved in different ways (depending on the location of the fasteners, allowances for processing fasteners and the chosen method of treatment).
To strengthen the fasteners used piping of lining, cotton or silk fabric. The facing cut is longer than the seam allowance (1 cm for hemming on the bottom slice). The width obtachki to the top of the clasp wider than the stock fasteners 1.5 - 2 cm, lower - 2.5 - 3 cm At the fastening area check the length and location of cuts.
Handling fasteners begin with binding of the slices (Fig. 82, a). For this to the face of the allowances for processing fasteners make obtachki inside out, equalizing the top and side sections, by bending the lower part on the underside of the piping on Piping 1 see pritachivajut seam width 0.4 - 0.5 cm from obrazek: one downwards and the other upwards. The stitches encircle the facing, straighten piped edges and fixed with stitching in the seam of primaqiune piping.
The inner sections of obcutek treated differently. On the top of the zipper cut piping cut so that it was located near a fold line in the upper part of the clasp. Avoid bias cut his primetyvajut to the seam allowance of the zipper straight stitch at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the edge or fasten with pins.
On the lower part clasps the inner section of piping bends at 1 - 1.5 cm inside out so that the fold was on the line the bottom of the zipper or have it blocked by 0.1 - 0.2 cm inside edge of the piping zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold along the entire length, and then primetyvajut to the allowance for the zipper straight stitch at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the bend or fasten with pins.
To handle corner fastener stock top bend bend line on the front side, call the upper cut and grind the seam width of 0.8 - 1 cm After screwing out the front angle correct, spawn from the mating, at the same time zamatyvala fold-over clasp. The clasp priorivet from the inside of the skirt using a moistened protohellenic: first the top part of the clasp, straightening the top edge and fold, and then lower. The closure spread, placing the upper part on the lower and combining line and fix with pins.Then fasten from the inside across the width of the seam allowance at the end of the fastener, above the bottom edge obtachki 0.3 - 0.5 cm double or triple stitching machine under the direct and sharp corners.
At the top of the zipper along the fold at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from him and perform a finishing line, starting from the upper edge and ending at the tack. In the absence of stitch finishing the edge of the clasp vspuchivajut manual loop-like stitches or on emergency vehicles, pre-zametov it. The clasp priorivet from the inside.
Sew hooks and thread loops produce the final finish of the skirt. On the top of the zipper side seam allowance sew three hooks (Fig. 82. b). For this peg pushing the fibers in the areas of location of hooks over the finishing line, from the allowance of the withdrawal of the spout hooks on the front side and sew it for "ears" and around the bend nine to ten stitches from the seam allowance, trapping the bulk and cushioning fabric.
Hooks have the following way: the upper angle of 45' to the upper edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm from it, lower above the basting line on 4 - 6 cm, keeping a single line of the side seam, and the middle - between the top and bottom. The second and third hooks are fitted at a right angle to the line of fasteners. The location of the hinges note by pressing on the hooks. Loops are made of thread, capturing the inner edge of the piping. String loop manufactured in accordance with the technical specifications (see table. 2).
Treatment of a fastener in the side seam without seam allowance. The processing of a fastener cut out the facing (to handle top zipper) and the valance (to complement the bottom of the zipper). Their cut out of base material so that the warp yarn passed through the length of the part. The width obtachki 3 to 4 cm, and the valance 9 - 10 cm For processing fasteners also needed facing from lining fabric for the top and a strip of cotton fabric for the bottom. Obtachku cut out, as indicated above, and the gasket for width and length must match the seam allowance of the zipper (Fig. 82,).
The side sections of the skirt sew, overcast (except for the left side cut back the cloth and slice at the level of the chain), the seams rautureau, as mentioned above. The fastening area is left open. Along the lines of buckles, on the continuation of the side seam, lay the thread stitching straight stitches. The lower sections of piping and valances from basic material overcast. At the level of the top of the clasp to the length of primaqiune piping trimmed the seam allowance of the side seam, leaving 1 cm from the folding line of the fastener.
The facing of base material is applied to the front side of the cut top of the clasp face, equalizing the side sections and having serged the lower section below the upper level of tack of the side seam by 0.5 - 1 see
Primaqiune are facing seam with the width of 0.5 cm Seam rautureau with the side cut should be placed along the fold of the clasp. Further processing of top of clasp to perform the finishing stitches on the edge is produced, as described above.
To the rear cloth skirts at the bottom of the fastener pritachivajut the valance along the line of the side seam. In the learning process first primetyvajut the valance, aligning the front side panels of the skirts and valances and perepuska lateral cut behind the line of fasteners is 0.7 - 1 cm Bottom serged the cut valances must match the lower level of piping. The valance primetyvajut from the rear of the cloth skirts at the thread line, equating both parts of the fastener, and pritachivajut side valances throughout. Seam primaqiune valance rautureau.
Bend the valance to the width of the upper part of the clasp. Across the width of the lower part of the clasp along bend line valance lay the strip of cotton fabric. The valance reinforce the stitching in the seam of his primaqiune throughout its length.
Before performing the finishing stitches on the edge of the top of the fastener hook fastener end of a double-triple stitching machine under the direct and sharp corners. To do this, combine both parts of the fastener from the inside of the front panel, chop off their pins in the transverse direction and secured with machine stitching. Then perform a finishing line on the edge top of the zipper.
Side cut back the cloth overcast the entire length, together with sections of valances and a strip of the clasp. The clasp priorivet from the inside of the skirt using a moistened protohellenic.
Hooks sew differently depending on the type of treatment the upper edge of the skirt (Fig. 82, g). When processing of the upper edge grosgrain tape sew hooks, produce loops, as mentioned above. Processing the upper section of the skirt waistband, all hooks are fitted at a right angle to the line of fasteners, upper and lower hooks sew, retreating from the top and bottom edges of the buckle 3 to 4 cm, and the average hook placed between them. Sewing hooks and the production of loops is performed, as mentioned above (see table. 2).
Processing Nesmachnyi closure at the side sections, the sections of front and rear panels at the level of the closure process, as mentioned above. Then sew the side sections, simultaneously securing the lower end closure double and triple stitching machine under the direct and sharp corners.