Depending on the model the bottom of the pants process without cuffs, and cuffs. Cuffs are double and semi-double. To protect the bottom of the pants from abrasion lay special tape with a thickened edge. Smart trousers are treated with no braid.
Pants without cuffs
Pants hem cut. For this they laid out on the table right-half up, aligning the side and stepping seams, equalizing and expanding middle seam. Primaqiune seam from the waist down aside the length of pants ready and plan a line of bending the bottom. Then, departing from the first line by the amount of bending (4 - 6 cm), is applied to the second line and cut along it.
With mass production garment trimming, and layout of the fold lines is performed on the machine. The chalk line is transferred to the stepping side right halves, and then copy the line in the second half of the trousers. Slices the bottom of the pants overcast on emergency vehicles.
Trouser braid is applied along the first scheduled line on the front side of the pants from the ACC bottom thickened edge up, overlapping the chalk line 0.1 - 0.2 cm Nastraivanie perform one or two lines.
The ends of the braid impose one on another 1 - 1.5 cm from the stepper side seam of the front halves. Nastraivanie Trouser braid can be executed on the machine needle. The ends of the braid can be secured with the grinding of the stepper sections.
The allowance for bending the bottom to buckle inside out; zametyvayut and fix blind stitch stitching slanted stitches with the frequency of 3 - 4 stitches 1 cm or on emergency vehicles (Fig. 91, a). The treated bottom of the pants priorivet through moist protohellenic, investing inside a pillow.
Pants with cuffs
When processing pants with double cuffs allowance for bending the bottom completely folded on the front side. Have single cuffs allowance for bending the bottom of the pants razvivayut.
Before processing the bottom of the pants with double cuffs (Fig. 91, b) produce the trimming of the bottom. For this pants laid out on the table, as described above. At the side seam, measure out an amount equal to the length of the pants in finished form minus 1.5 cm (width Trouser braid), and set the first line. From the intended line lay down an amount equal to twice the width of the cuff plus 3 cm (double width Trouser braid). Uneven hem cut at the second chalk line. Then the chalk line is transferred to the other half of the pants and on the wrong side.
The bottom of the pants inside out and bend the cut is applied to the chalk line, zametyvayut straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm placed on Top of the pant band so that the thin edge it overlaps the cut of the pants bottom is 0.1 cm, and thickened edge is at the bottom. The tapes scribbled two lines at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edges, positioning the ends as well as trousers without cuffs. The allowance on the folded cuff on the front side line of the thickened edges of the ribbon and straight stitches zametyvayut. The cuff is attached to the side and stepping seams, hand stitching or bartacking machine.Ready cuffs priorivet through moist protohellenic, investing inside a pillow.
When you trim the bottom of the pants with half cuffs (Fig. 91,) the pants are laid out as described above. At the side seam, measure out an amount equal to the length of the pants in finished form, minus half the width of the cuff (width at cuff 4 cm, take 2 cm), and then lay twice the width of the cuff plus 1.2 - 1.3 cm and will hold a second chalk line, which cut off uneven bottom of the pants.
For felling Trouser braid is applied a third chalk line, which is higher than the second half of the cuff width plus 1.2 - 1.3 cm, All three lines should be parallel among themselves. Trouser braid is applied to the front side of the thickened edge up so that it blocked the planned chalk line 0.1 - 0.2 cm Lateral ends of the braid have the same as trousers without cuffs.
Nastraivanie tape perform two lines or one on the thin edge of the Trouser braid. The lower section of the pants bend inside out, first at 1 cm, and then again, positioning the bent region of 0.2 - 0.3 cm above the first chalk line. Primitivna perform a running stitch straight stitches at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge. The bottom of the pants hem on a special or on a sanding machine at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold. Allowance for the cuff laid out on two sides so that the seam connection is in the middle of the cuff width, and fix the marking line.
FINAL FINISHING OF TROUSERS
The final finishing of the trousers start with serging loops at the waist. Perform eyelet cotton thread, securing the ends of the loops on emergency vehicles or hand stitches. Then remove the ends of the thread of machine stitches, stitch a temporary assignment, purify the product from the production of dust and traces of chalk. These operations are performed first, from the inside, and then from the front side.
Final wet-heat treatment starting from the top of the pants with an iron or press with the special Shoe by placing the upper edge of the pants facing up. Ironing processing is performed using humidified protohellenic, straightening the pockets, belts, clasps etc. Then priorivet the lower part of the pants, placing them on the table and aligning the side and stepping seams from the knee to the hem.
Bends iron from the stepper seams on each half separately, and from the side - both together. At the same time priorivet and stripped cuffs. When performing the Ironing work on the presses the bottom of the pants and bends priorivet universal flat pillows. After the wet-heat treatment pants dried within 30 - 40 minutes in limbo.
Buttons to fasten are scheduled in accordance with the arrangement of loops and buttons to finish - depending on model.