The purpose of Darts
To obtain the necessary forms shelves design tuck. They are the top and from the waist line. Top Darts is designed for getting fit in the chest area, they can have any cutoff, depending on model and always direct to the center of the breast. By construction, the upper Darts are uncut and cut. Split Darts are used in the processing of products from inexpensive thick fabrics, or when the renewal of the products.
Tucks from the waist create a fit shelves to the figure at the waist line. The location, number and shape of the recesses depends on the model shape and the chosen silhouette. Waist have one or two Darts (front and side). Front tuck is usually continuous, as it is inside the shelves, lateral (coming from openings) can be split. Free coat tucks from the waist line not projecting.
Depending on the model to create soft molds used tuck-pleats, tuck-tucks.
Handling the top tucks
Uncut tuck (Fig. 8, a, b) schedule a to the underside of the shelves one or two lines: the middle line and the line delimiting the end of the tuck. In the training process if necessary, tuck smatyvay. To do this, they bend in the midline and smatyvay straight stitches with a length of 1 - 2 cm, reducing the length of the stitches to the ends of the Darts. The beginning and the end tucks fixed. Side tuck, with the oblique direction, a top. Smachivanie perform on hands. One tuck smatyvay from the outlet to the end and the second end to cut.Soft not sustainable in the structure of tissues before smachivanie tuck bend on the table in the midline, joint shear pins in the direction perpendicular to the design lines and only after that smatyvay.
Uncut sew Darts at the target line (without smachivaniya) or parallel to a running line at a distance of 0.1 cm from it. One tuck grind from the edge towards the end and the second end to cut. Side tuck, with the oblique direction, a side platform of the car. When grinding enclose strips of wool linen, cotton fabric or non-woven materials (interlining, proklamelin, etc.) along the entire length or only at the end, crossing the line bounding the length of the Darts on 1,5 - 2 seeAt the end of the Darts in the lower corner of one layer of strips of fabric cut before reaching the line of 0.1 cm, and laid out. Stefannie with a strip of cloth tuck rautureau from the cut edge towards the end. Slack tissue, formed at the end storevault circular motion of the iron. To performing surgery it is recommended to first tuck priotity from the stock one, and then with the other hand and only then resuturing. The main condition for good fixation and preservation is drying, i.e., complete removal of moisture.When autoimune stock on the tuck guide in the direction provided by the model.
Split tuck (see Fig. 8) sew a seam width of 0,7 - 1 cm, reducing it gradually to nothing and ending line below the ends of the slit at 1 - 1.5 cm the ends of the Darts can be secured by placing an extra strip of cloth. Wet-heat treatment of these Darts are produced in the same way as continuous recesses.
Tuck into the folds are distinguished by the fact that they end with a soft crease. Smatyvay and grind off such tucks as well as continuous without additional strips of fabric. Reinforce the fold line perpendicular to the fold from the wrong side at the end of the grind part of the tuck. Rautureau and iron tuck-folds only on the parts of grinding from top to bottom.
Treatment tucks from the waist line
Continuous tuck (Fig. 9) should be treated in the same way as the top with a strip of fabric the entire length, positioning it over the side of the slice. Before razotajiem stock on the tuck and the strip of cloth at the level of the waist line lay and retard for better fit bust Darts. Processing split tucks from the waist line the same as the treatment of the upper split of Darts.
Tuck into folds, grind off half of their length (to the waist or in the middle), then tuck the soft end fold. When stitching Darts place finish at right angles to the bend. Iron the tuck only at the site of her grinding.
Tuck-tucks create a soft coattails on the product at the top and bottom of the waist line, by connecting them in the middle stitch length 4 - 5 cm These Darts smatyvay throughout the length and sew on the intended plot, iron only on stakanom area.
Treatment of the Princess seams
Princess seams with both constructive and decorative purposes, can be of different types: bridging, zastrocky, applied with a shut cut, nastronie, cord, edging, etc. Raised seams performed with the help of paws with a guide ruler.
Bridging raised seams perform a width not less than 1 cm Before grinding for training purposes sections, it is recommended to smatyvay seam width 0.9 cm straight hand stitches equating sections and combining marks. When smachivanie the product is positioned on the table (straight coats and broad silhouette) or lifting it above the table (in the processing of products of adjoining silhouette). One seam perform top-down and another bottom-up, the most oblique cut of the part should be on top. When grinding a line under matiwane and do it in the most direct cut.Wet-heat treatment of welds produced depending on the technical requirements - rautureau or iron. Autoimune joints do on the model. In vertical relief seams seam often iron towards the middle of the part.
3астрочные Princess seams there are two types: zastrocky from the front side (Fig. 10, a) and zastrocky from the inside (Fig. 10, b). Depending on the model zastrocky Princess seams can be located on the parts of the coat in one or several parallel rows. Before the grinding of the relief from the inside a chalk outline its direction, then bend detail on the intended lines face inward and zastrugivajut parallel to the bend, deviating from it by 0.2 - 0.4 cm Following Princess seams perform in parallel first with the foot with the guide line.Princess seams on the front side carry out the same as described above, but the lines are laid along the front side of the part. Notched Princess seams zastrugivajut interrupting the stitching at the corners.
Invoices raised seams closed cut is treated in detail, consists of two parts, or whole parts. In the first case, initially treated with one of the sections with a seam in the hem open cut. The width of the seam allowance depends on the width of the finishing stitches. Cut the top part bends and zametyvayut from the allowance of hand stitches on a special machine at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the fold. Then seam priorivet from the bent slice.The processed edge is applied to the bottom of the details, equating it with the slice and by reference characters namachivajut one part to another and scribbled the finishing line.
To perform the raised seam on the whole details of the required allowance equal to twice the width of the finishing stitches and the seam allowance. Along the marked line from the bend allowance detail and zametyvayut at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm hand-stitches or on emergency vehicles. After the hot upper part of the raised seam is applied to the bottom, aligning them to the planned lines, namachivajut one part to another, and then scribbled.
Nastronie Princess seams can be processed on the details of one or two parts. When the joint at the details of the two parts, a first part of the link bridging the seam width depending on the finishing line and type nastroennogo seam (open or closed slice). After the buttonhole hand stitch or seam on emergency vehicles priorivet from the inside out. Finishing line of pave on the front side along the seam. Nastronie Princess seams on solid parts are with extra fabric in the following ways.
The 1st method. On the shelf with the wrong side put a line raised seam and putting it on the front side. On the wrong side of the line raised seam impose a strip of thin wool, cotton or linen fabric with a width equal to twice the width of the finishing stitches plus 2 - 3 cm and cut in length on the weft yarn. The middle strip should coincide with a line of raised seam (Fig. 11, a). The strip is fixed with pins to prevent shift and fixed machine stitch, laying it on the intended line to the front of the shelves.Then line the shelf are bent in one direction and stripes in the other and zastrugivajut relief in the main part from the inside at distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold (Fig. 11, b). A shelf folded in side seam spawn straight or slanted stitches depending on the thickness of the tissue, priorivet from the inside, with a shelf along the table. Then perform a finishing line (Fig. 11).
The 2nd method. Shelf bend facing the inside of the intended line of the seam and embossed smatyvay at a distance of 0.4 - 0.6 cm from the fold depending on the width of the seam stitches with a running length of 1.5 - 2 cm Relief zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold, simultaneously placing an extra strip of cloth under the shelf so that the width of the stripes on the right was equal to the width of the finishing stitches plus 1 cm (Fig. 11, g). Terrain spawn, priorivet, then perform a finishing line, as in the 1st method (Fig. 11, d).
The 3rd method. After zatrachivaniya relief shelves at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm fold to make a single or double strip of fabric, securing it on the car 26 CL. PMZ zigzag stitching (Fig. 11,). The inflorescence emerge, prutivka and finishing lines produce the same as in the 1st method (Fig. 11, g).
Princess seams with cord treated in the following way. Under the main fabric enclose a cushioning strip of fabric and lay the first line of the intended line from the front side. Between the tissues investing the cord and lay the second place, closely skirting its upper part. The seams are treated with odnorazovoe legs. The number of rows vitachevo cord depends on your model.
Princess seams with piping can be performed on solid parts and split. The treatment process consists of two stages: primaqiune double folded strips of finishing cloth on the distance of the width of the edging to one part and fastening the second part in the line of primaqiune Kant.
Processing flirts, and connect them with shelves
Coquette shelves in its configuration may be straight, oval, notched (Fig. 12), they can be cutting and single cut shoulder to the part. Yoke connected to the main parts (shelf, back) bridging, nastronie, invoices, or seams. The connection to the yoke on the primary handle according to model the folds, seams, Darts or form assemblies. In the products of legkorastvorimah materials cuts oval coquettes pre-fixed adhesive or Nechaeva edge. Nechaevu lay on the edge of the sanding machine.
Netrezvye yoke. The yoke cut out with a shelf, given the allowance for a simulated seam joining the Basque with the item. The seam joining the Basque with the shelf raised to perform as integral parts.
Cutting yoke. When connecting the shelves with the yoke bridging the seam (Fig. 13, a) in the learning process first primetyvajut the yoke to the main part of the shelf side yoke (manual or on emergency vehicles) seam width not less than 1 cm or the intended lines. Hand stitches should be straight with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm, clips at the beginning and end of the seam. Primaqiune perform from the side of the yoke next to a running line. Seam rautureau or iron, directing it towards yoke. During processing of Basque with the Assembly at the main part (Fig. 13, b) primetyvajut and pritachivajut the yoke from the main part, controlling the location of assemblies.
During the processing of the shelves with cutting lapped tongue teases the seam along the bottom edge of the shoulder paving finishing line (Fig. 13,, g). To do this, after primaqiune yoke to the main part of the shelf seam to the side of the iron yoke. Finishing the line are performing at the front side with the foot with the guide line. Bridging the width of the seam increase, depending on the width of the finishing stitches.