Treatment tucks. Tuck in the vest more often split. From the inside tuck metiaut, equating sections of straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm. Sew Darts at a distance of 0.1 cm from the line of matiwane, gradually reducing the line and finish below the bust Darts by 1 cm Seam rautureau, slack tissue in the ends of the Darts sativum.
Pocketing. The pockets in vests come in a variety of Welt with flap, with leaves, frame and overhead. Process the pockets, as described above (see Chapter 1, p 7).
Treatment strip the shelves. Strip for shelves vest cut out at the top, so that the side sections of the strip did not reach the lateral sections of the shelves of 3 - 4 cm Darts on the gasket, grind off the patch seam width of 0.6 - 0.8 cm, bringing the line gradually. Tuck moisturize, priorivet and ends sativum. For the formation of convex shape at the chest part of the strip folded, stack the slices, moisten and storevault side sections of the side and armhole.
Wet-heat treatment. To create a bulge in the chest area shelves sativum. To do this, put them right sides inward, equalize and tuck all the slices. Shelves lay cut neckline to working, moisturize and storevault the resulting slack at the neck. Then the shelves move side to working and produisait them. Further shelves with povertayutsya armhole to working and storevault the resulting slack. After stivania one side of the part turn the bottom shelf up and repeat the techniques stivania described above.
The connection of the shelf top with the gasket. Namachivaya shelves on the strip doing hand stitches or off highway. Strip for shelves laid out on the table cut side to working. For laying impose the shelf vest face up, combining the convexity of the chest on the shelves and on the strip. In women's vests stock on the tuck is attached to the strip. To do this, first on the front side of the shelf along the seam tuck lay a line of hand stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm Then the shelf is folded along the stitching inside out and the stock on the tuck strip attached to the shelves.
When namatanai first place lay in the center of the bulge on the chest of the manual stitch length 2 - 3 cm, the second is parallel to the neck and Board at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the slices, the third - on distance of 1,5 - 2 cm from the strip and 3 - 4 cm from the cut edge of the armhole.
The ends of the pockets attached to the strip by machine stitching or hand stitching. Connecting the adhesive strip with shelves of vest produces iron or press before the processing of the Darts on the shelves top. After connection with the adhesive strip is treated with a tuck, and then pockets.
Cutting shelves and laying the edge on the Board. Before laying the edge of the shelf through the side cut. To do this, first their priorivet with the gasket the same methods as in the processing of the shelves and the top of the vest. And then shelves stacked with padding inside, combining pockets and Darts, equating shoulder, side cuts and slices at the arm openings, laid out on the table right shelf up side to working. Then obmeleet side and bottom shelves well-honed chalk line or at the auxiliary patterns in accordance with the model and trimmed the excess tissue on the inner edge of the chalk line.For sewing buttons on the side of the left shelves leave allowance of 1.5 cm wide Strip cut out of 0.7 - 0.8 cm at neckline, sides and bottom of the vest.
For protection of the neck, the edges of the sides and bottom of a stretch of paving edge nechaevu or adhesive (Fig. 94). Nechaevu edge primetyvajut at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from the shoulder cut, then on the neck, side and bottom shelves - 12 - 15 cm the size of the landing depends on the design of the product and the structure of the tissue. The orifice size of the landing is 0.2 - 0.3 cm, on the side of 0.4 - 0.6 cm, and the bevel and bottom edge of the paving with a little tension.
Sew inner edge of the edge and the slanted stitches gasket manual on emergency vehicles or hidden stitch. The outer edge of the edge enters the seam stitching around the side. Side priorivet, satwiwa planting shelves on edge.
The adhesive edge around the edge of the neck, side and bottom of the fixed iron.