Depending on the model of the upper section of the skirt can be treated a grosgrain ribbon waistband, a facing or seam bodybu. From the inside top edge of the skirt must be secured two hangers with a width of 0.5 cm and a length of 7 cm in finished form at a distance of 2 cm from the side seams. Before processing of the top slice to check the processing quality of the skirt, shape the waist line and measure the top cut. Half the length of the upper edge should be more poluobhvat waist 0.5 - 1 cm for free at the skirt on the figure.
Processing grosgrain braid
The upper cut on the front side of the skirt applied to five control characters, two of them are the extreme points of the clasp and at the bottom of the waist. For the application of the other characters skirt on the top slice bend in half, aligning the point of closure, the inflection is applied to the third (middle) control sign. Then put the second and fourth marks, divide the resulting sections in half. Grosgrain braid before connecting with a skirt deytroyt, i.e. pre-moistened and dried.Before the final drying time specify the length of the tape to measure the waist, adding on ACC ends by 1 cm on each side. The ends of the grosgrain ribbon that bends on 1 cm, then bend it along the middle with the difference in the width of 0.3 - 0.4 cm, covering the bent sections, and iron (Fig. 83, a). When autoimune bend grosgrain ribbon retracted in accordance with the internal circumference of the upper edge of the skirt.
The bent edge of the braid at the ends is recommended to zastrochit by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold. Grosgrain ribbons are divided into four sections of equal length, put three of the reference mark on the upper offset edge. The upper section of the skirt put inside grosgrain ribbon, aligning the marks. Wide side printed grosgrain ribbon needs to be on the wrong side of skirt (Fig. 83, b). Fasten the braid to the skirt with pins perpendicular to the upper cut of the skirt on the control marks.The tapes scribbled on a skirt, paving the line on the narrow side at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the seam 1 cm wide with the edge of the broad side of grosgrain ribbon.
In the learning process before nastraivanie grosgrain ribbons primetyvajut. When the clasp hooks nastraivanie starting from the notch obrechennogo corner and finish at the edges of the bottom side of the clasp. The skirt with the zipper edges closure equalize to the ends of the grosgrain ribbon and start nastraivanie braid at the top and finish at the underside of the clasp.
When nastraivanii braid on the skirt to fix the ends of the two hangers at a distance of 2 cm from the side seams. Fold the hanger loop. At the ends of the grosgrain tape sew two hooks and two metal loop, positioning them in pairs (hook and loop). Bend the hook a level with the edge of grosgrain ribbon, hooks secured over the ears and around the bend. Metal loop release over the tape edge by 0.1 - 0.2 cm (the thickness of the hook) and sew over the ears and around the edge. The ends of the grosgrain ribbon fasten loop-like stitches.Grosgrain braid inside bends along the upper edge of the skirt and iron through the humidified protohellenic from the grosgrain ribbons (Fig. 83,). Along the top edge may be provided with a finishing line. It is performed from the front side skirts, pre-zametov and putuju the top edge of the skirt.
Treatment stitched belt
The width of the belt depending on model may be different. The belt can be tselnokrajnimi with podpalam or cutting, with the seam on the fold line. In length it may consist of two parts with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. Lining belt may also consist of two parts with the location of the seam in transverse direction. The ends of the belt are usually one another by 3 - 6 cm Welt and fastened with loops and buttons or with metal hook and thread loop. Stock on the clasp can be attached to each or one end of the belt.The belt is manufactured from a single strip of adhesive or Nechaeva fabric and without padding. Processing and belt connection with the upper cut of the skirt is performed in the following ways.
The connection of the skirt with the belt on the strip. Cut the upper section of the skirt, specify the length, width, belt and gaskets. The gasket must be proektirovania. Put marks on the upper cut of the skirt, the belt (inside out) and laying as described above.
To the front side of the upper edge of the skirt face make belt, equating sections and combining marks for which shear off the belt with the skirt with pins perpendicular to the slices. Belt primetyvajut from the inside of the skirt at a distance of 1 cm from the slices a running stitch straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm or on emergency vehicles (from the belt), landing on the side of the skirt.
When participarii belt, skirt is placed under the presser foot of the machine the waist up, placed on top of the gasket the width of which is equal to the width of the belt. Strip down from the upper edge of the skirt, overlapping it close to the line a running stitch, combining marks. The line lay on the strip at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from its lower edge (Fig. 84, a). To the side sections of the belt strip should not be up to the width of the seam grinding (0.7 cm).Belt are bent upward in the direction of the strip and spawn its bottom edge on the front side at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from seam primaqiune manual slanted stitches or off highway.
For grinding the ends of his waist are bent down, aligning the right sides and having a bend above the level of the upper edge of the strip to 0.1 cm depending on the tissue thickness. Perform grinding with a hand strip seam 0,5 - 0,7 cm seam Allowances in the corners cut out, leaving a 0.3 - 0.4 cm the ends of the belt turn on the front side and manual spawn slanted stitches or on emergency vehicles, at the same time zamatyvala it along the top edge at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold.
Lower cut podmotsa overcast on emergency vehicles or bends inward. After serging the cut fixed, padding stitching on the front of the skirt near the seam protecive belt or bottom belt at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune (Fig. 84, b). When attaching the manual blind stitch stitching cut podmotsa bent to the level lines of protecive belt and sutured with silk threads with a frequency of 3 to 4 stitch per 1 cm When attaching the lower edge of podmotsa from the inside of the skirt put the ends of the two hangers, placing them at a distance of 2 cm from the side seams.
Belt priorivet from the inside of the skirt using a moistened protohellenic. If the model provides the finishing line, it is performed from the front side of the belt.
The most common is buckled ends of the belt to the Welt loops and buttons. For that, depending on the width of the belt at the upper end, overcast with one or two loops. The distance of the loops from the edge must be equal to at least 3/4 the diameter of the buttons. In accordance with the hinges on the lower end of the belt when a closed buckle outline the location of the buttons. The button sew on the rack, grabbing the strip of the belt. If you have a clasp on the metal hooks and thread loops, then sew the hooks on the upper end of the belt, having their "ears" between podpalam and gasket.Hooks are sewn over the pad. The fixing hooks and the manufacture of thread loops produced in accordance with the technical specifications (see table, 2).
The connection of the skirt with the belt without grommets. The belt is applied to the underside of the skirt front side, equalizing the slices and combining marks. Primaqiune perform from the belt seam 1 cm wide, investing and securing the ends of the hangers, as described above. The belt is folded on the front side of the skirt, bending the side and bottom sections of the belt towards the inside 1 cm of the Lower cover fold line protecive zone 0.3 cm and zametyvayut slices at a distance of 0.3 cm from the fold on the two side and bottom edges. Nastraivanie perform on three sides at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge (Fig. 84,).Depending on the model of finishing stitching may be done on all four sides of the belt.
Treatment zone and connecting it with the upper cut of the skirt bridging the seam. Preparation of skirt, belt and strip to the connection is produced, as mentioned above. Additionally, on the underside of the belt in the middle along the length of the schedule line of the bend. On the underside of podmotsa imposes a pad, bringing its equity to cut the chalk line. The side sections of the strip must defend from the slices of podmotsa 0.7 cm (the width of the seam grinding). The gasket scribbled on pogoes along the length at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the fold belt. The lower section of a strip cut along with the lower slice in thin podmotsa Nechaeva gasket.Applying compacted nechaevu or adhesive strip, the lower section of a strip cut at 1 cm above the slice podmotsa.
Belt bend in the middle along the fold, inside out, equating sections and combining marks. The ends of the belt grind on the part of the strip, as mentioned above. Allowances of seams in the corners cut out, leaving a 0.3 - 0.4 cm Belt turn on the front side, straighten and spawn tips with simultaneous propityvaniem along the fold, at the distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm manual stitches or off highway.
After the adhesive zone connects with the upper cut of the skirt. It is applied, combining the front side, equalizing the cuts and marks. Primetyvajut side skirts, and pritachivajut on the waist seam with a width of 1 cm Lower cut podmotsa zametyvayut and bends inward so that a fold overlap seam protecive zone 0.3 cm Edges secured to the front of the skirt in the seam protecive belt or zone at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold (Fig. 84, g). Processing belt buckles perform the methods described above.
During processing of top of skirt waistband to padoaa from the left side of the zipper to the seam or connection of the skirt with the belt attached trademark. Sometimes along with the trademark the company attached the tag with a recommendation of possible methods of dry cleaning and wet-heat processing.