Pockets in women's and children's clothes have a utilitarian and decorative purpose. All the pockets are divided into external and internal. Exterior pockets are divided into Welt, neporene and overhead. Welt pockets can be with the valve leaflets, the frame and edging. Naprasnye are in relief seams and folds. Patch pockets come in different forms, separating them with pleats, Darts, flaps and slats. Interior pockets include on-seam connection of the lining with podborta and podborta. All pockets are diverse in appearance (Fig. 14) and processing method.
Welt pocket with flap
To handle Welt pocket with flap required the following parts (1 PC. each): valve, podklady, facing, valances, burlap and dolevik.
The valve (Fig. 15, a) cut out of the top fabric, the warp yarn (Fig. 15 and the other indicated by the arrow) passes along the width of the valve. Its length is equal to the length of the cut pocket plus 0.7 cm per treatment with three sides and 1.5 cm on the top cut of the valve to the seam allowance primaqiune valve to the product. If the fabric is patterned, it still needed the stock to fit the pattern.
Podlipan (Fig. 15, b) cut out of lining fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details, keeping the valve from stretching. Podlipan already cut out valve on three sides by 0.2 - 0.3, see
the Facing (Fig. 15) cut out of the top fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details. The width obtachki - 5 - 6 cm more length of the cut pockets for 3 - 4 cm facing is required to process the lower edge of the pocket.
The valance (Fig. 15, g) cut out in the color of the top fabric of lining fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details. The width of the valance 6 - 7 cm, its length equal to the length of piping. The valance is designed to cover the top part of the burlap pocket above the pocket opening. If the burlap cut out of lining fabric, the valance is not needed.
The burlap (Fig. 15, d) cut out from calico or lining fabric. The main thread passes along the details. The width of the burlap corresponds to the length of piping and valances, length equal to twice the width. Burlap may consist of two parts.
Dolevik (Fig. 15, e) cut out from calico, calico or cotton cloth with an adhesive impregnation.
Processing valve. The valve is the part of the pocket which covers the pocket and decorate the products (there are decorative flaps without pocket). In the women's products the valve can be of various shapes. In dyed fabrics form the valve specify utility templates. In tissues with a pattern cut out detail to the underside of the valve is applied on the front side of shelves in a tokenized form of the valve. The fabric on the shelf should match the fabric on the flap. The shape of the valve is transferred from the shelf on the underside of the part by lightly pressing or tapping.Then line the valve update and the excess tissue trimmed, taking into account the seam allowance on three sides of 0.5 - 0.7 cm in width grinding and 0.2 - 0.3 cm for Kant.
Valve 1 (Fig. 16, a) added to podkladom 2, right sides inside, slices and smatyvay call (for training purposes) from the underlying tissue straight stitches with a length of 0,8 - 1 cm fit in the corners where the stitch length is reduced to 0.5 cm for conservation planting.
To make the valves more severe forms are treated with an adhesive or Nechaeva strip of cotton fabric. The gasket is applied on the base fabric of the valve, securing hand stitches or pins, and all the details smatyvay. If the gasket is fabric with one-side adhesive coating, then attach it to the valve by means of the iron, and then smatyvay with podkladom.
Valve grind side podlipan seam width 0.5 cm, thread smachivaniya removed, corners cut, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm below the corners of the valve there was no swelling. Then turn the valve on the front side, straighten the corners and sides. Valve spawn from podlabene manual slanted stitches with a length of 0.6 - 0.8 cm, stepping back from the edge by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, or on emergency vehicles, forming the edge of the main fabric with a width of 0.2 cm (Fig. 16, b). Valve priorivet from podlabene through wet protohellenic, straightening the corners and any irregularities.The edge of the valve can be fixed uspeshnymi lines, the finishing line, the width of which depends on the model, or using the adhesive film, which is laid on cross-sections of the valve when it is grinding.
For connection of the valve with the product from podlabene plan a line of primaqiune from the treated region up to the width of the valve.
Treatment burlap. On the burlap 1 (Fig. 16) impose the valance 2 face up, cut valance on three sides must coincide with the sections of burlap. Internal bends cut into 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled it on the burlap, retreating from the bend of 0.1, see the Facing 3 is applied to the second end of the burlap facing inward, cuts and call, retreating from them at 0.5 cm, pritachivajut. Seam primaqiune iron to the side of the burlap.
The Assembly Welt pockets with flap. On the shelves using utility curves specify the location of the pocket by three lines: one horizontal, which determines the direction of the entrance to the pocket, and two vertical, defining the length of the pocket. The position of the pocket can be determined by the table of technical dimensions. To do this, from the highest point of the angle of neck and shoulder lay cut down the distance to the level of the pocket. The second dimension from the edge of the Board find the location of the front end of the pocket. Then parallel to the bottom line hold the line the entrance to the pocket and limit it in accordance with the length measurement of your pocket.On the reverse side of the shelves lay dolevik so that its middle coincides with the intended line to the pocket. In the process of learning dolevik primetyvajut manual straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm, stepping back from the edge of dolevik 0.5 - 1 cm, or on a special machine. If dolevik has an adhesive coating, it connect with the iron or press; the ends of the dolevik should go for the grub pocket for 2 - 3 see All nechaevym of dolevikov must reach the side sections of the shelves and go to 2 - 3 cm for the inner cut side strips.
Valve impose a face on the front side of the shelves treated edge up, combining planned line on the valve and the shelf. The edge of the valve from the side should be parallel to the cut side, and from the side of the slice - parallel lateral cutting. In the slanted pockets, the ends of the valve should be parallel to the cut side and the side cut. If the fabric is patterned, in the area between the Darts on the pattern on the shelf and the valve should be the same.
In the learning process valve primetyvajut to the shelf manual straight stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm 0.1 cm above the intended line of the valve. Pritachivajut valve on the chalk line with the clips at the beginning and at the end of the line (Fig. 17, a). Then seam primaqiune valve bent valve and butt weld to the seam is applied on the front side facing the shelves with the burlap face down so that the ends of the piping protrude beyond the ends of the valve to 1.5 - 2 cm.Obtachku primetyvajut (in learning) and pritachivajut to the shelf seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm (joint width depends on the width of the frame) with the clips at the beginning and at the end of the line. On the part of dolevik check the quality of lines of primaqiune valve and piping.
Seams primaqiune piping and valve rautureau. The shelf is cut along the line of the pocket from the side of the dolevik between the two lines from the middle, not reaching the end of the string is 0.8 - 1 cm, then the fabric is cut in both side corners to the ends of the lines, reaching them by 0.1 cm (Fig. 17, b).
Through the slits of his pocket to turn out on the wrong side of the facing with the burlap. For the formation of the frame facing straighten around its seam primaqiune piping, and spawn the lower edge of the pocket with frame slant or straight stitches with a length of 0.7 cm at a distance of 0.2 cm below the seam primaqiune piping. Sweeps the fix edge machine stitch in the seam primaqiune piping. When machining pockets in the products .crumbling tissue facing wrap around the seam and fix it to the slit of the pocket.
In mass production the lower edge of the pocket is fixed without prior buttonhole.
Burlap valance with bent up, call with seam primaqiune valve and pritachivajut on the part of dolevik the seam primaqiune valve. The products thick fabric row pave on the front side in seam primaqiune valve. Frame pocket tighten, the corners of the pocket incision straighten and fixed at their base a double machine stitch. At the same time grind off the burlap from three sides. When grinding the line should deviate from the clips of pocket 0.5 - 1 cm in each direction, thereby increasing the capacity of the pocket and creating the opportunity, if desired to remove the valve in the pocket.Place in the lower corners of the burlap round off (Fig. 17).
If the burlap pockets are cut from the silk lining fabric, sew it with the subsequent eyelet or smachiwausa-overlock machine. Seam primaqiune burlap and valve spread and spawn from the front side of the shelf at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 cm from the seam primaqiune valve and priorivet. The ends of the pocket put the tie silk thread in the color of the main fabric hand stitching or bartacking machine. Ready pocket priorivet from the inside, and then from the front through the moist protohellenic, straightening the irregularities of the valve and frame.
Connection finishing of the valves with the product
The valve can serve as a decoration, in this case, the pocket is not treated. On a shelf on the planned line of the pocket is applied to the valve podkladom down and scribbled it on a shelf side podlipan the first line 1, departing from cut-off at 0.4 - 0.5 cm (podlipan should be cut wider than the valve 0.4 - 0.5 cm, Fig. 18, a). Valve bend on the line, positioning his podkladom up, and lay the second line 2 so that it captured the main fabric of the valve and the seam primaqiune of podlipan was not visible. Then the valve is bent and priorivet.
Depending on the model and thickness of the tissue valves can be Brittany to the shelves with lining (Fig. 18, b). In this case, the valve is folded with shelf, right sides inside, combining a line pockets from the intended line of podlabene, and pritachivajut from podlabene, securing the stitching at the beginning and at the end of the pocket. Then the valve bent and scribbled it on the shelf with the front side of the finishing line width depending on the model, but not necessarily so that the seam of primaqiune valve was not visible.
If the model is no finishing line, instead use uspeshnuyu line.
The valve can be pricecan to the shelf, all by itself, but in this case, the slice valves should be serged off highway. The valve thus pritachivajut to the shelf from podlabene seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm and Then it bent podkladom inside and attach the sides to the shelf ends in the seam primaqiune on a special machine with a zigzag stitch or a special bartacking machine figure set. Length of bar tack 0.5 to 0.7 see the Finished valve priorivet.
Welt pocket frame
Welt pockets are straight and curved lines of the cut. Depending on the model, these pockets can have a different direction: horizontal, inclined and vertical. For processing of slash pocket to the frame requires the following parts: two piping, one valance, one sacking and one dolevik.
Piping cut out of the top fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details. Obrazek length equal to the length of the pocket plus 3 to 4 cm, width 5 - 6 see
the Valance cut out of the top fabric, the warp yarn goes across the width of the part. The length of the valance equal to the length of otacek, width 5 - 6 cm.
Burlap (may consist of two parts) cut out from calico, calico and lining fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details. The width of the burlap the length of obrazek and valances.
Dolevik cut out of adhesive or Nechaeva cotton fabric, warp yarn passes along the details. Width dolevik 5 - 6 cm.
Details of pocket arm in different ways depending on the processing method. Piping can be Brittany to the shelf on the line of the pocket in expanded form or press it. In products from fine fabrics, the valance is applied to the burlap face up, call the top and side sections, internal cut the valance bends in 0,7 - 1 cm and scribbled it on the burlap at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge. The products thick fabric, the valance pritachivajut applying it on the burlap face down, cuts his call and pritachivajut to the burlap seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 seeProducts from bulk tissue internal cut the valance wrap around burlap and zastrugivajut the valance seam width 0.5 cm
Welt pocket with a straight frame. Such pockets are treated in different ways.
The 1st method. On the shelves outlining the location of the pocket with auxiliary patterns of three lines: one equity and two cross (Fig. 19, a). On the reverse side of the shelves lay dolevik as well as the handling of flap pockets. Vertically arranged pocket dolevik should extend beyond the line of the cut of the pocket on 2 see
On the front side of the shelf is applied face down piping so that their sections were placed butt to the intended line of the pocket. The sides of obcutek should extend beyond the ends of the pocket the same distance. Piping pritachivajut seam width depending on the width of the frame or edging (Fig. 19, b). The beginning and end of stitch fix. Then from the dolevik validate primaqiune of obrazek. Lines lines should be parallel and end at the same level. Seams primaqiune of obcutek moisturize and rautureau.
The shelf is cut along the line of the pocket from the side of the dolevik as well as the handling of flap pockets. Obtachki inside out around the seams and forming of them a frame width of 0.4 - 0.5 cm edges of the straightened so that they were connected back to back. Spawn of the upper and lower sides of the pocket slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 - 0.8 cm away from the seam primaqiune of obcutek equal to 0.2 cm Lower edge of the pocket clips machine stitch from the front side in seam primaqiune lower piping.
Cut burlap without valance pritachivajut to the lower facing, folding them right sides inward, seam width 0.7 - 0.8 cm (Fig. 19). Cut the other end of the burlap (with valance) with folded cut the top of the piping, right sides inside, burlap spread straight out. For fixing the upper edge of the burlap pocket and a valance from the front side in the seam of the upper piping primaqiune paving machine line.
Then straighten the frame and smatyvay cross stitches. Corners tighten, fixed at the base and sew the burlap, rounding out the stitching in the bottom corners. The ends of the pocket put straight bar tack by hand or machine basting. The length of the tie equal to the width of the top and bottom of the frame. Ready pocket priorivet from the inside and from the front through the moist protohellenic, thus straightening the irregularities of the part.
The 2nd method. Depending on the model and a single Welt pocket in the frame may be processed zautyuzhennoy obrazkami. The laying of dolevik and nastraivanie valance on the burlap is the same as in the 1st method. Top facing the underside of the bend along the inside, and the bottom bend towards the inside 1.5 - 2 cm and iron them on the fold using protozilla. For stability and rigidity of the frame inside obrazek put coarse calico strips or adhesive strips, and iron. Changing the lines of the pocket: in addition to one equity line, put two ancillary, parallel to it, above and below the middle line.The distance between two auxiliary lines should be equal to twice the width of the two frames of the pocket (Fig. 20, a). For the frame take the processed edge of the pocket with one hand. Press the piping placed on the shelf according to the planned lines so that their sections were sent to the line of the cut of the pocket, and bends to support the planned lines, and pritachivajut seam width depending on the width of the frame from the beginning to the end of the pocket with the clips (Fig. 20, b). The rest of the processing of the pocket remains unchanged (Fig. 20).
Welt pocket with a notched frame. Such pockets are treated without dolevikov under scheduled line of pocket enclose the burlap. Piping cut out Podkayne (in the form of the cut of the pocket) or on the bias thread. In the products of the delicate tissues of the inner edge of the lower piping scribbled on the burlap, cut inside by bending the 0.7 - 0.8 cm and retreating from the bend of 0.1 - 0.2 cm; for products made of thick fabric, the inner sections of obcutek overcast and scribbled on the burlap, retreating 0.3 cm from the slices (Fig. 21).
Welt pocket in the frame, located in shared direction.This pocket is made the same, changing only the shape of the burlap and its treatment. Piping and valances pritachivajut to cut out of the burlap, folding parts face inward. The line lay on the burlap seam width 0.7 cm, the split in the corners of the line passes at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm slices (Fig. 22). Burlap can be pritchina to obtachku after treatment of the cut of the pocket.
Welt pocket with flap and frame
The details of such a pocket in a contrast Welt pocket with flap adds one facing of the main fabric. Valve and the burlap is treated in the same way as in Welt pocket with flap. The flap outline on the front side line of his primaqiune to the shelf (noting the width of the valve). Top facing fold along the underside of the inside and iron the fold. On the burlap with attached valances is applied to the valve, combining podlipan with woodcarving and equating sections of the burlap and valve.The valve is applied press the facing to the fold the chalk line on the valve and it pritachivajut to the valve and the burlap with the valance at a distance equal to the width of the frame (Fig. 23).
The lower facing, pricechannel to burlap, bend towards the inside 1.5 - 2 cm and iron along the fold through protohellenic. On the shelf marks the location of pockets on the auxiliary patterns of the four lines-two longitudinal and two transverse in the ends of the pocket.
Dolevik navigate in the same way as described above. On the shelf impose obtachku, pricechannel to the valve, and with the burlap valances. Bend piping call is scheduled with the top line and the front edge of the valve with a transverse line of namely pocket. All the details primetyvajut manual straight stitches with a length of 0.8 - 1 cm or pinned with pins. Pritachivajut items to the shelf on the burlap, padding stitching in the seam of the connection details, from the beginning to the end of the valve with the clips (Fig. 23, b).
Fold the bottom of the piping to equalize with the lower planned line and her pocket pritachivajut to the shelf seam with the width equal to the width of the frame (about 0.5 - 0.6 cm) from beginning to end, transverse lines, securing a place in the ends of the pocket. From the inside check roveto of primaqiune of obrazek: lines should be parallel and their ends must be at the same level.
Cutting the shelves on the line of the pocket, straightening frames and secure them at the ends, and stitching burlap and wet-heat treatment perform as well as the handling of the pocket in the frame. Tie the ends of the pocket with the front side do not.
Welt pocket with leaflets
Welt pockets with leaflets arranged on the shelf in various directions: horizontal, inclined and vertical (parallel to Board). The shape of the leaves are rectangular and notch width of 2 - 5 cm and length 15 - 18 cm Leaves cut from double fabric top handle or padded. In connection with the shelf side ends of the leaflets can be secured in different ways.
Treatment of pockets with leaflets with nastronie ends. For the treatment of-pocket requires the following details: single or double leaf - 1 PC., lined for a single leaves - 1 piece gasket - 1 EA., sacking - 1 piece (in two parts), dolevik - 1 PC, skirt - 1 PC, edge.
The leaf cut out of the top fabric, the warp yarn runs along part or depending on the fabric pattern. Lining for single leaves cut out of lining fabric, the warp yarn passes along the details. Strip cut out of Nechaeva and adhesive cotton fabric or non-woven material (nonwoven fabric, proklamelin), the warp yarn passes along the details.Burlap cut out from calico, calico or lining fabric, dolevik of Nechaeva and glue cotton fabric, the valances - from the main fabric (which is required when the width of the leaves in finished form no more than 2 - 3 cm) warp yarn in every detail runs along the details. Edge glue or linen used to protect the edges of the leaves from stretching.
Treatment Welt pockets with leaflets begin with the processing of the leaves. If the leaf cut out with the lining (often is found in curly leaf), then it is treated in the same way as the valve.
The processing of the double leaves of a fabric top start with drawing lines from the inside out along its length, which divides the leaf in half (on the outer and inner parts). At the inner part at a distance of 0.2 cm from the line of paving edge, which should not reach all the leaves are 0.5 - 0.6 cm In the educational process edge primetyvajut and hand sew stitches with a frequency of 2 - 3 stitch per 1 cm Edge can be pritchina on sanding the car away from the bend leaves equal to 0.3, see the Edge of the adhesive laid with iron.
In the products of thin tissue paper treated with the gasket. The gasket gives the leaf more rigid and stable form. When processing the leaves nechaevym gaskets gasket connect with the interior of the leaves simultaneously with pritachivajut linen edge or by laying the adhesive edges, positioning them parallel to the intended line. The adhesive edge should be 0.5 cm beyond the outer cut of the strip and should not reach the chalk line 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 24). Using a gasket with an adhesive coating, the edge of paving.
The leaf bend on the planned equity lines face inward, the side sections of the call and grind the seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm (Fig. 24, b). The gasket has to go into place. The seams, in corners cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 see the leaves turn on the front side, lateral sides and angles are correct, then the leaf spawn manual slant stitches at a distance of 0.6 - 0.7 cm from the edge with a stitch length of 0.7 - 0.8 cm or on a special machine. Priorivet the leaf with the inner side through the wetted protohellenic, straightening and aligning all edges.On the edge of the paper with the front side lay the finishing line (the width depends on the model). On a piece of paper with the inner side of the outline of the line defining the width of the leaves in finished form. Leaving propusk for a seam width of 1.5 cm, the excess tissue cut (Fig. 24).
On the shelves from the front side clarify lines of the pocket. On the reverse side of the shelf along the Linin of the cut of the pocket lay dolevik so that one-third of its width was located in the port side, and the other two - thirds in the side of the slice. This is to ensure that when you attach the sides of the leaves to the shelf dolevik came under lines. Dolevik pave, as described above.
Compound leaves with shelf. The leaves impose a face on the front side of the shelf processed edge in the direction of the Board, combining planned line on the shelf and the leaf. The leaf is applied one portion of the burlap face inward so that the upper end of the burlap came for the leaves to 1.5 cm Slices and call primetyvajut (in educational process), and then pritachivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from a running stitch. The ends of the lines of primaqiune fix and seam rautureau.There is another method of processing: first, pritachivajut the leaf, and then the burlap in place of primaqiune leaves from the dolevik.
The second side of the burlap placed on the shelf face down, cut the butt to the seam of primaqiune leaves with burlap so that the top end of the burlap came from the top end of the leaves to 1.5 cm When participarii leaves the line should extend beyond the line defining the length of the pocket from an acute angle leaves, 0.2 - 0.4 cm and do not reach it at 0.5 cm from the blunt angle of the leaves (Fig. 24, g).
After checking the lines of primaqiune parts from the inside of the shelves from the dolevik cut the shelf along the line of the cut of the pocket as well as flap pockets. Both pieces of burlap using the grub turn pocket to wrong side. The piece of paper folded on a shelf in the side of the cut, straighten it and spawn seam primaqiune leaves to the shelf manual or slanted stitches on timetoknow car. Then the leaf primetyvajut to the shelf manual straight stitch one line down the middle and priorivet.Internal corners at the ends of the pocket, straighten, tighten, fasten machine stitching with simultaneous skiving burlap, rounding out a line in the corners (Fig. 24, d). The side leaves fix one or two machine stitches on the front side (the width of the finishing stitches depends on the model). For durability pockets under the ends of the leaf from the inside put the pieces of the side fabric (in the absence of dolevik). If the sides of the leaves scribbled one line, they additionally attach to the shelf on the front side manual blind stitch stitches.The frequency of lines 3 - 4 stitches per 1 cm
Depending on the model of a leaf may be without a finishing stitch, then sew the ends of it to the shelf from the front side, and a hidden blind stitch stitches, making a bar tack at each corner leaves are 4 to 5 stitches and then on the reverse side shelves across the width of the leaf at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edges of the stitches with a length of 0.3 - 0.4 cm Ready pocket priorivet iron or press with purl, and then from the front through the moist protohellenic, simultaneously straightening the uneven edges of the leaves.
Treatment of pockets with leaflets with stitched ends. Feature of processing of such pocket (Fig. 25) is to secure the raw ends of the leaves bridging the seam and the presence of valances from a fabric top. On the shelf outline the location of the pocket four chalk lines-two longitudinal and two transverse. The longitudinal distance between the two chalk lines is equal to the width of the leaves in finished form. Inside the leaves put the adhesive strip and iron the leaf along the middle. On the inner side of the outline lines defining the length and width of the leaves in finished form. Dolevik attached on the reverse side of the shelf as described above.
The leaf is applied to the inner side of shelf up, processed edge in the direction of the Board, combining planned line on the shelf and the leaf. On paper to impose the burlap so that the top section of burlap came over upper end leaves to 1.5 cm, the burlap shall overlap the seam primaqiune leaves 1 cm At the end of the string and put the tack.
The valance is applied to the front side of the shelf face down so that the ends it went the same distance for all the leaves. Pritachivajut the valance on the second planned line with clips at the ends of lines. A shelf cut from the side of the dolevik between the lines from the middle to both sides, not reaching 1 cm to the ends of the pocket. And then shelves cut at an angle to the lines, not reaching the lines of 0.1 cm Burlap valance and turn through the slits of the pocket on the wrong side, the seam primaqiune valance rautureau.Straighten the leaf, fold the leaves properly to approach the seam primaqiune valance. Then the corners of the pocket to tighten and fix a double machine stitch together with the side ends of the leaves. The valance pritachivajut the second part of the burlap seam width 0.5 - 0.8 cm the Slices equate burlap, burlap grind, rounding out the stitching in the bottom corners. Ready pocket priorivet from the inside out, and then from the front through the moist protohellenic.
The pockets are in relief seams
Pockets, made in embossed seams can be positioned vertically, horizontally or inclined depending on the direction of the seam. The pockets can be decorated with leaves, flaps, pull-tabs, finishing lines. The processing of these pockets you must complete the following requirements when operating the unit: the top edge of the pocket should be compacted, stable, in the process of socks he doesn't need to stretch and move; the bottom edge of the pocket from the inside out strengthen dolevikom for the stability and strength of the ends of the pocket.
Machining of the pocket in the relief seam. To handle pockets in the vertical raised seam without stitch finishing (Fig. 26) allowances for processing the entrance to the pocket, you need the following items: gasket for top edge of pocket 1 PC, dolevik under pocket - 1 piece, edge to the top edge of the pocket 1 PC, burlap two parts.
For allowance to the top edge of the pocket on the front of the shelves from the inside paving edge to protect the edge of the pocket from stretching during wear. The edge can be coated without it. Feature edge, at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold line of the pocket, releasing the slices over the marks the entrance to the pocket on each side 1 cm Edge without the adhesive coating is fixed with a little tension on the sanding machine at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold of the pocket (in the goods of inexpensive fabric) or on a special blindstitch machine.Edge with an adhesive coating secured with iron.
Dolevik applied to the underneath side of the shelves so as to block the line of entrance to the pocket. To avoid bias dolevik pin pins. Dolevik with an adhesive coating secured with iron. Part of the burlap is applied to the allowances on the pocket, combining the front side and equating sections. Primaqiune burlap to fulfill allowances from the burlap seam with a width of 0,7 - 1 cm, clips at the beginning and end of the seam. Iron the seam to the side of the burlap.
Slices shelves smatyvay from the inside front of the entire length straight hand stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm or on a special machine. Shelves on the level of control marks the entrance to the pocket before smachivanie fixed with pins, sticking them in the transverse direction. Grind the slices are also on the front of the shelves right shelf from top to bottom, and the left - from the bottom up with the simultaneous grinding of slices of burlap. The ends of the pocket clips double machine stitching. Cuts burlap on overcast overlock machine.
In tissues with crumbling sections at the same time overcast the lower part of the raised seam, starting from the level of pocket.
A raised seam on the front side and straighten zametyvayut manual straight stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm or on a special machine, directing the seam allowances toward the front part of the shelves. Simultaneously with the zametyvayut cover your seam allowance to the top edge of the pocket. To prevent movement of the edge of the pocket in the transverse direction fix it uspeshnoi stitching hand stitch or machine blind stitch from the inside out or reinforce the edge of the adhesive film (adhesive film are laid up zamatyvala the edge of the pocket).Prutivka seam and burlap pocket perform from the inside out using the iron or press.
Processing features pockets raised seam details with a detachable pocket. When cutting a coat depending on the width of the fabric, the size of the product, shape, pockets, and arrangement of parts coat allowances for processing the entrance to the pocket cut out separately as facing and the valance. Obtachku pritachivajut to the top shelf and the valance - to the side. The seams between the parts shelves facing and valances rautureau. The rest of the processing is the same as described above.
Features processing relief pocket in the seam with the finishing line. If the model is trimmed with raised seam stitching, consistency in the handling of pocket change. Sections of parts of the shelf grind, leaving Nesmachnyi the seam of the burlap pocket. After zamatyvala and adhesive seam along the top edge of the pocket lay the finishing line, then grind, overcast the seam of the burlap and perform finishing the stitching on a raised seam. Finishing line raised seam needs to be a continuation of finishing stitches around the edge of the pocket.
Processing features pockets in the seam embossed with leaf surface. When cutting out the parts shelves additional allowance for processing the entrance to the pocket are not allowed. The leaf treated the same way as for a Welt pocket with leaflets (nastronie ends). The leaves pritachivajut to the front of the shelves from the leaves, combining lines raised seam and leaves. The upper part of the burlap pritachivajut the seam primaqiune leaves or sections of leaves with a seam width of 0,7 - 1 cm, producing slices burlap relative to the ends of the leaves on the width of the seam stitching burlap.
On the side of the shelves on the reverse side impose and fix dolevik, shifting to the side cut so that when you pin all the leaves line passed on dolevik. To the outlet side of the shelves at the level of the pocket pritachivajut the second part of the burlap seam with a width of 0,7 - 1 cm, putting her face to the side shelves and equalize the slices. The suture is guided to the burlap. Further processing is performed in the same way as in your pocket with decorative stitching on a raised seam. The ends of the leaves reinforce the finishing line on the model.