Backless children's and women's coats in design depending on the models are very diverse. The backrest can be with a seam in the middle (Fig. 41,a), one piece with tucks from the waist line (Fig. 41, b), slit-slit (Fig. 41), cut at the waist line (Fig. 41, g), with tails (Fig. 41, d), with the inverted pleat at the yoke (Fig. 41, e), tselnokrajnie with sleeves, etc.
The back with a seam in the middle
When checking cut from the inside to the patterns outline Darts from the shoulder sections, the middle line of the seam and control the signs of having back along the table, the average cut to workers. Then chalk lines are transferred to symmetric detail one of the previously listed methods of transfer lines. Tuck from the shoulder cuts are treated the same as the top Darts on the shelf (see p 6). Part of the back fold and center seam in the learning process smatyvay on the table along the seam near the intended line of straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm.Sew middle seam on the planned line from top to bottom by right half back, with clips at the beginning and at the end of the line. In the mass production of back, sew a seam 1 cm wide without smachivaniya.
Wet-heat treatment of the back starting from the middle of the seam. The middle seam can be resutured or press it towards the left half back. In order to avoid the seam, it is recommended to put under the seam strips of thick paper and butt the sections folded to position in accordance with the thickness of protozilla. Then proceed to suotuisan or resuturing tucks from the shoulder sections and sutivanu sections of the armholes to ensure a tighter fit of the parts on the figure, as well as to create additional bulges on the shoulder.For that half back, folded inside out, con-put on the table cuts of the arm openings to a working (Fig. 42, a). When stivania capture area of the openings and the start side of the cut at 8 - 10 cm.
Stugiv back with one hand, the parts inverted and the same techniques sativum on the other hand to complete removal of moisture. To maintain the shape and protect the slices from stretching parallel to the slices of the arm openings and the neck lay a cotton strip with a width of 2.5 - 3 cm,
Solid back with Darts from the waist line
Tuck on the back from the shoulder sections and waist line are treated the same way as on the shelves (see p. 6). Vegetalbe processing in the region of the armholes perform as well as in the back with a seam in the middle. Coat the adjacent and semi-fitted silhouettes for a better fit in the waist the back staiway in the midline at the level of the waist line until the required deflection depending on the model and the degree of fit to the figure. To do this, fold back, bending on the middle line face inward, equating all of the slices (Fig. 42, b).The backrest positioned on the table the fold and working staiway to obtain the necessary forms from both sides. To fit the side sections to the shape of the back of the waist pulled away, moving back the side sections to a working (Fig. 42). For a tighter fit of the product around the waist produces an additional pulling back the waist width. When you do this, straighten a curved line of the side cut depending on the degree of fit.
The back slit-vent in
Slots (Fig. 43, a) is called the sections that handle in the middle seam of the back or side seams. Slots are intended for decoration of the product, and for convenience in its operation. The length of the slot depends on the length of the article and from the model. For the stability of the edges of the slots on the bottom lay a dolevikov of nonwoven material (proklamelin, nonwoven fabric) or cotton cloth (calico, calico). Under the left half of the back dolevik are laid so that the slice was located 0.2 cm from the middle line of the back.From the right half back dolevik paving, stepping back from the edge by 1.5 - 2 cm (Fig. 43, b). In educational process the dolevikov primetyvajut straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm in two lines at a distance of 1 cm from the slices.
The inner sections of dolevikov attached to the back of the hand stitches or off highway. Then to protect the edges of the slots from stretching pave edge, positioning it so that it came close to the intended line of the fold slots and closed the cut of the dolevik by 0.1 cm Edge primetyvajut with the landing at the top of the slots at a distance of 10 - 12 cm, and the rest of the edges primetyvajut with uniform tension. At the bottom of the garment edge is laid at a distance of 15 - 20 cm, positioning the edge of the border along the line of bending the bottom.Linen hem stitched on two sides blind stitch stitches (hand or on emergency vehicles). From the side of the bending slots, the frequency of the stitches should be 2 - 3 to 1 cm, and the inner side - 1 - 2 1 see
To expedite the processing of slots modify the sequence. On the outer cut of the dolevik first scribbled edge, and then dolevik connect with back.
After paving edges sativum fit and priorivet slices slots, then proceed to the treatment of the lower corners. On the right and left halves of the back from the inside clarify the crest line of the bottom. On the left half of the back additionally nameset line grinding the lower corner and cut the excess fabric, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.5 - 0.7 see
The lower section of the right half of the back bends to the front side along the hem, equating sections of the slots, the Machining performed along the cut slots at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge. After reputazione seam angle turn slots on the front side and simultaneously bends the cut slots along the edge. Bent edge zametyvayut manual straight stitch length 2 - 2.5 cm, at the same time valtiva bottom corner. Lines temporary appointment can be routed also on emergency vehicles. The right part of the slots is a fixed finishing line at a distance of 0.3 cm from the edge (Fig. 44, a).
The lower left corner of the slots grind off on the intended line adjustment sections with a seam width of 0,5 - 0,7 see After reputazione seam angle turn on the front side (Fig. 44, b). Further processing of the slots is performed after processing of the middle seam of the back.
The middle seam of a back grind on the right side from the neck down to the beginning of the slots in finished form or moving machine stitch 1 cm for varnishes allowance for the slot. In the back without finishing stitches left edge uspeshnoi slots in the staple line. To this end, the slot of the left half back zametyvayut at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the edge, generate an internal fastening, and pin, cut the slots to the strip manual slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1 cm, or off highway.
The seam of the back rautureau from the neck down with simultaneous priduzivanja bends left and right sides of the slots. Before razotajiem must be the nadsech seam allowance on right half back at the end of the seam grinding. The upper part of the slots machine double staple line directed at an angle 45' from the line down the middle seam of the back. The length of the basting stitch 3 to 4 cm in the consolidation under the line should get allowances left and right side slots.
If on the model of the middle seam of the back with the finishing line, the line performed from the front side on the left half of the back along the seam, from the neck to the bottom, by bending right side slots. To accomplish this you must remove the product from under the presser foot of the machine is 15 - 20 cm off the bottom thread and move aside the right side slots. Then the back is placed under the foot, weakened reeling the upper thread on the spool, and continue stitching. Slot clips as well as in the back without the finishing stitches. Processed slot priorivet through protohellenic hydrated from the inside out.In the individual production of clothing allowance on ACC slots on the bottom of the back save in case of lengthening of a coat, so the bottom corner of the left half back fixed blind stitch lines (Fig. 44,).
A more progressive method in the processing slot is the use of adhesive attachment of the cushioning parts (Fig. 45). The adhesive strip is fixed by iron, the outer edge of the slots machine stitching not secured. When using the adhesive strips or pads made of nonwoven fabric, the edges of the slot is not laid. The lower sections of the strip and edges must end on the line of bend of the bottom, and the top - level sections of the stock slot. Edge slots products without finishing stitches secured with the edge is an adhesive coating is up.
If handled incorrectly, the slots disturbed the local balance of the product. The causes of the violations can be the following:
improperly executed landing on edge (a lot of landing - the lower ends of the slots come more than necessary; there is little planting - the lower ends of the slots diverge; improper location of planting - curved line slots and the lower ends come more than necessary);
defects from a wrong tack at the top of the slots (fixing is made without regard to the correct positioning slots, the lower ends of the slots come more than necessary, or diverge).
The back, cut at the waist, ruching
To get the Assembly on the waist the upper back cut out with an additional allowance. The Assembly gather in the waist line, receding from it at 0.5 - 0.7 cm, two machine stitches with loosened the upper thread and with the increased length of the stitches. Then thread and tighten evenly have the Assembly so that the cut top of the back at the waist was cut the bottom. The upper and lower part of the back fold, right sides inside, slices call, smatyvay and sew a seam width of 1 cm.When grinding the lower portion of the back enclose an edge, or a strip of cotton fabric. Iron the seam toward the bottom of the back.
Back with tails
A feature of the process of the backrest (see Fig. 41, d) is the pinning of tails in accordance with the model. Under the upper back podtraivaet strip of cotton fabric in the form of a yoke. Podkraj produce when laid tails on the back. When the wet-heat processing back at the top of the tails at the shoulder sections and neck pulled for a better location tails. First, the gasket is fixed from the inside on sections of the armholes, shoulder and neck on the sanding machine or hand stitches at 0.7 - 0.9 cm from the slices.Then come back on the table, laying down face up, side cut to a working for placing and fastening to the strip tails in accordance with the model. Before attaching the tails back between the tails primetyvajut direct manual stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm wide strip. From the inside of the back spacer is attached to the bend of the tails hidden hand-stitches or on emergency vehicles blind stitch.
The finishing details
In women and children upper ware martingales and the opening is used as a trim on shelves, backs, sleeves and pockets. Depending on the model they can have different shape, length and width. The belt used in the coat straight, adjacent and semi-fitted silhouettes, giving the product a certain style. Button belts with buckles, hooks, buttons. The width of the belts depends on the model.
Tab cut of top fabric, lining must be the tab 0.4 - 0.5 cm In the educational process tab of the top fabric fold lining, right sides inside, cuts call and smatyvay on fabric top with a stopover in parts of the manual stitch length 1 - 1.5 cm, retreating from the slices of 0.5 - 0.6 cm Grind the lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm Thread smachivaniya removed the seam allowance at the corners are cut, leaving 0,2 - 0,3 cmStrap turn on the front side, straighten the corners and spawn, retreating from the edge 0.5 cm, hand-stitches with a length of 1 - 1.5 cm from the side of emergency vehicles lining or edging with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm Sweeps tabs priorivet from the lining and on the front side, fix the finishing line using the ruler guide. The width of the lines depends on the model. Hand stitches removed, tab priorivet from the lining (Fig. 46, a).
In the mass production process tabs without smachivaniya and the buttonhole. After grinding them and turn on the template priorivet iron or press.
In products from fine fabrics strap may be processed without lining. The details of the strap is folded, right sides inside, slices equalize and grind off the seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm a Seam in the middle and rautureau. Then the end of the strap obmeleet depending on the model and on the planned line to grind the seam width 0.5 cm seam Allowance, grinding of the cut, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm, tab turn on the front side, straightening all the corners and edges. The inflorescence emerge, prutivka and finishing lines produced as described above.
Strap, cut from only the top fabric, you can oblachat on the edge of the part. Details of the tab along the fold, right sides inside, slices equalize and grind with the end of the strap with a seam width of 0.5 cm the Rest of the processing executed as described above.
PATA is treated similarly to the tabs.
Belt depending on the thickness of the fabric is treated with a lining or cut double fabric top. Treatment of NKh is similar to the treatment of tabs. Additional operations are fastening buckles and processing of both ends of the belt when tying his knot.
When connecting the buckle with the belt (Fig. 46, b) rough end of the belt round the middle part of the buckle and bent in the direction of the belt end length 4 - 5 cm section of zone of crumbling thin tissue that bends at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and sew blind stitch or stitches zastrugivajut on sanding machine. The products thick fabric, cut the belt does not buckle, and the raw end of the bond near the middle part of the buckle on each side 4 - 5 loop-like stitches invisible from the front side.