In the women's products the appearance of the sleeve is very diverse. By the cut sleeves are set-in, tselnokrajnie with shelves and back of a Raglan, by design - one-piece, double seam and gusset pouches (Fig. 53). The sleeves have a different finish: the reliefs, tucks, folds, slots (unfastened, wylacznie open), and also pull-tabs, PATA, cuffs.
Double seam of the sleeve with the front and elbow seams
Sleeves cut out of main, lining fabric (see p 3) and gaskets. The gasket for the processing of the bottom of the sleeves cut out of adhesive or Nechaeva fabric (cotton or fleece) with a width of 5 - 6 cm form the bottom of the sleeves. The gasket is required for the density and stability of the bottom of the sleeves and to attach thereto the lower edge of sleeves and slots.
Handling of the sleeves from the main fabric. Treatment double seam sleeveless begins with pulling the front section of the upper half to create a concave line rolling. For this purpose, two upper halves of the sleeve folded right sides inside, all of the slices equalizes the front and laid out slices to working with crown to the right (Fig. 54, a). Iron are cut from the workpiece, removing his left hand from the bottom of the sleeves, then iron taken in the left hand and lead it towards the top of the sleeve, which is removed the right hand from itself. After that, half turn and repeat pulling the same tricks from the other side.The correctness of pulling the front sections of the upper halves of the sleeves check front bending the sections along the lines of the front roll. Pulling is considered correct, if the front section lies flat and parallel to the crest line, and cut the bottom halves of both sleeves combined.
The upper and lower halves are folded, right sides inside, front cuts equalize and grind from the upper halves of the seam 1 cm wide with clips at the beginning and at the end of the line. Then, the front seams rautureau. Sleeves and laid on the Ironing table to the bottom half working. Seam moisturize and rautureau until snug to the table, the iron should not step beyond the line of the front roll. (Fig. 54, b).
You can arrange the front line of the roll after grinding of the front sections. Grind off the front sections on the upper half, Posiva lower the level of the elbow and aligning the reference notch. Then, when razoruzhenie front seams further retracted so that landing on the lower halves disappeared (sutiles).
After processing of the front seams outline the hem line of the sleeves, laying on the top half from the highest point of the crown length sleeves in finished form plus 1 cm for seam vrachevanie sleeves. Then nameley the width of bending the bottom sleeve, equal to 3 - 4 cm On the wrong side of the sleeve imposes a pad, stepping back from the chalk line by 0.2 - 0.3 cm, and primetyvajut her in the middle of the manual stitch length 2 - 3 cm Upper sections of strips sewed to the sleeve stitches of hand or off highway. If a strip with an adhesive coating, then attach it without primitivne using an iron or press (Fig. 54, V, g, d).
Before smachivanie elbow sections specify the control notch. This sleeve laid out on the table face up, bottom half for working. The lower half of the sleeve to bend towards the upper halves of the front lines rolling. Check the width of the front roll. Then bend the elbow section of the upper half of the crown of the sleeve along the line of the elbow roll toward the bottom halves, combining the ulnar slices on a plot of 12 - 15 cm from the crown, and clarify the position of the upper control nasechek. In a similar way specify the position of the lower nasechek.
The upper and lower halves of the sleeve folded right sides inside, call the elbow sections and smatyvay on the upper half landing on the level of the elbow stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm with clips (Fig. 54, e). Fit the slices sativum. Grind elbow sections from the lower halves of the elbow joints rautureau on a special pad. After treatment of the elbow joints are required to check the correctness of connection of the sections. For this sleeve laid out on the table bottom halves up.When testing pay attention to the parallelism of the lines of the front rolls and the combination of the sections of the bottom of the sleeves. On the planned line the bottom of the sleeves bend on the wrong side, zametyvayut direct manual stitch length 2 - 2.5 cm, departing from the inflection of 1.5 - 2 cm, or off highway. Slices of bottom of sleeves attached to a strip of hand stitches blind stitch over the edge (with a frequency of 2 stitch 1 cm) on emergency vehicles or reinforce the glue method. Attaching the lower edge of the sleeve depends on the method of connection pads on the bottom.When connecting the pads on the sanding machine of the suture attached to the seal after the connection of the lining. Sleeve priorivet from the inside through moist protohellenic by investing inside the sleeve special pillow (Fig. 54, g).
Treatment lining of the sleeves. The details of the lining consist of upper and lower halves. The lining may have extensions that pritachivajut from the extension seam width of 1 cm slices connect the Front and grind off the upper halves of the seam 1 cm wide with a landing, the bottom halves at the level of the elbow. Elbow cuts grind off the bottom half with the top landing at the level of the elbow. Stefannie seams and lining priorivet.
The connection of the lining with the top of the sleeves. The lining connecting with the top of the sleeves by hand or by machine.
A manual method.The sleeve of fabric top turn on the wrong side, laid out on the table the bottom half up elbow joint from working. From above impose the sleeve lining, combining the lower half and equating elbow seams, simultaneously specify the location of the slices lining on top part and bottom part of the sleeves. The lining needs to come out regarding the sections of the sleeve at the top of the crown by 1 - 1.5 cm and at the bottom (in the middle of the lower half) 2.5 - 3 cm.To prevent movement of the lining of the elbow suture attached to the outside seam of the sleeve woerl, departing from the crown at 10 - 12 cm and not reaching the bottom of 6 - 8 cm, manually straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm or sanding machine with a small landing pads at the level of the elbow (Fig. 55, a). Then turn the sleeve on the front side, straighten the inside lining and namachivajut it on the lining from the front two lines: parallel lifts the shoulders, departing at 10 - 12 cm, and parallel to the bottom receding from him at 8 - 10 cm, hand slanted stitches with a length of 3 to 4 cm (Fig. 55, b).
To handle the bottom of the sleeve lining to turn up. The lower sections of the lining to buckle inwards, retreating from bottom of sleeve for 2 - 2.5 cm, and zametyvayut her straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm, combining front and elbow seams. The lining is stitched loop-like stitches with the frequency of 3 - 4 stitches 1 cm, and the sleeve turn on the front side. Ready sleeve iron through the humidified protohellenic, putting the bag inside a pillow. Wet-heat treatment starting on the bottom half. Lining on top part cut (Fig. 55 in).
Native method. After treatment of the lining of her pritachivajut to the allowance for ACC sleeve seam width of 0.8 - 1 cm, combining front and elbow seams. Primaqiune perform from the side of the lining. The further handling of the sleeves is performed in the following sequence: attach the bottom seam, the sleeve over the pad, fasten the elbow joints uppers and lining, namachivajut sleeves on top part and bottom part of the sleeves, priorivet sleeves and trimmed the lining on top part.
The use of machine methods of processing increases productivity, changes the processing sequence of the sleeves. After processing of the front seams sleeveless top and lining for the cuffs are paving the gasket as described above. The lining is folded with sleeves top, right sides inside, adjusting the lower and second sections. Lining pritachivajut on the bottom of the seam width of 0.8 - 1 cm from the lining. Then call the elbow sections of the sleeves top and lining. Elbow seam uppers and lining sew a single line seam 1 cm wide, combining primaqiune seams of the lining at the bottom of the sleeve.
Turn the sleeve lining to the outside, straighten and zametyvayut the bottom of the sleeves along the seam protecive lining hand stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm or emergency vehicles near the line of the seam. Pinning the seam at the bottom of the sleeve and further processing is carried out as described above.
Adhesive method. The adhesive applying method in the processing of bottom of sleeves used as spacers and adhesive nechaevu fabric with adhesive threads or films on the modernized sanding machine. Strip connected to the bottom of the sleeves, focusing on the line of bending after processing of the front seams on the press or iron.
Using the adhesive strip, coated one side with glue, it is placed on the allowance for ACC sleeve adhesive side down. For faster processing it is advisable to connect the adhesive strip with the simultaneous septugenarian the bottom of the sleeves. The gasket is applied to the sleeve by the adhesive layer up, bottom sleeve to buckle, fasten with pins and pressed (Fig. 56, a). In the products of more dense thick fabric, apply the adhesive strip with a jotted edge. It is placed in the direction of allowance for ACC sleeve.The ends of the strip should not reach the elbow sections 2 - 3 cm for ease of handling. Bent edge strip holds the ACC bottom and the main part of the strip is connected with the sleeve (Fig. 56, b). When applying the strips with adhesive threads or films (Fig. 56 in) strip a and secured in the manner prescribed above.
Double seam sleeves with elbow seams nastronie. If the model elbow seams trim seams nastronie, changing the processing sequence of the sleeves. After pulling the front sections of the upper halves of the sleeves smatyvay and grind off the elbow sections. Rautureau seam, then iron towards the top half and zametyvayut from the front side. Paving finishing line at a distance from the weld depending on the model, the seam priorivet. Then lay the gasket on the bottom of the sleeve, grind off and rautureau front seam. The processing of the cuffs produced the same as in the double seam the sleeve seam without nastroennogo.
Feature processing is the increased wet-heat processing of the front and second sections prior to their connection. For pulling the front of the cut parts of the sleeves are folded, right sides inside, front cuts to working. The iron should not cross the line of the front roll. From the elbow sections perform sutivana, without crossing the line of the elbow roll. Then the parts are inverted and the wet-heat treatment was repeated on the other side.The processing sequence of single-joint sleeves choose depending on the applied processing methods and bottom connections of the lining sleeve.
Lining for sleeve one-piece cut out in the form in accordance with the sleeve top with the changes taken to cut out the lining sleeves. The lower sections of the sleeve to equalize, combining the control notch from the elbow of the cut, and smatyvay. The lower sections of the grind from the front half. Seam rautureau with moisture, maintaining a constructive policy. Sleeve lining grind without smachivaniya the front of the slice. The seam allowance of the lining is attached to the seam allowance on the top of the sleeves from the elbow sections, Posiva lining in the elbow area.In other operations the processing of single-joint sleeve coincides with the processing of the double seam with the upper and lower halves.
Double seam of the sleeve with upper and lower seams
The upper sections of the sleeve connect the bridging seam resuturing or press it toward the front roll of 1 cm wide (no finishing line). When finishing the stitching on the seam allowance equal to its width plus 0.5 - 1 see the Finishing line and perform the front half.
Top slices smatyvay from the elbow half sleeve, equalizing sections, aligning the reference notch and making the planting in the area the elbow on the ulnar half. The size of the landing depends on the shape of the sleeve and is determined by the control nasecki. Grind off the upper sections of the front half of the sleeves.
When razoruzhenie or autoimune the top of the weld perform the wet-heat treatment front and elbow sections of the lower seam, as indicated in the treatment of single-joint sleeve. Finishing the line are performing at the front side of the sleeve. Lining cut out in the form of a one-piece sleeve with amendments as adopted for lining of the sleeves. Further processing coincides with the processing of single-joint sleeve.
Cuffs aretrim sleeveless. Their shape should be combined with the form of sleeves, collars, pockets, etc. They are folded and stitched. By design, turn-down cuff are divided into cutting and tselnokrajnie with sleeves. Detachable cuffs can be made from the top fabric, finishing, or fur.
Cutting fold-over cuff. Detachable cuffs are closed with sacanime ends and open loop, the ends of which are not Stacey. Cutting open and closed cuff can be fixed and removable. Removable cuffs are often treated in the products of thin fabrics, they combine with the sleeve once it has been processed, permanent - during the treatment of the bottom of the sleeves and the coupling of the lining. In fixed cuffs when cutting provide allowance for processing of the bottom of the sleeves.
Pacmangame from lining fabric cut narrower and shorter than the main cuff of 0.3 cm (the width of Kant). Cuff is treated with spacers, cut from nechaevym and adhesive materials. Cleavage strip of material needs to get into the seam grinding; it connects to the main cuff, hand-basting stitches or a special machine. The adhesive strip should not get in the seam grinding, connect it with a sleeve iron.
Fixed closed cuff. On the cuff of the upper cloth from the inside is applied the gasket and connect in the way described above, depending on the form of a strip. Then fold cuff with right sides podmenili inside, call upper cuts and smatyvay planting in the corners. Grind the top of the cuff from podmenili seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see the seams in the corners are cut, leaving 0,2 - 0,3 cm Podmenili turn on the front side, the upper edge of cobble and spawn from podmenili with edging of fabric top width of 0.2 - 0.3 seeStitching the buttonhole should not reach the end of the cuff 2 - 3 cm. when the sleeve without the finishing stitches, the seam grinding is attached to the strip. Cuff then bend across and fold, right sides inside, equal side sections and sew a seam width of 1 cm Seam rautureau. Pacmangame bent on the wrong side, straighten and priorivet (Fig. 57, a).
If the model has a finishing line, it is performed from the front side by folding line.
Removable open cuffs. The cuff is connected to the spacer, as described above. Pacmangame fold the sleeve right sides and smatyvay with the equalization sections and with the landing on the curves. Grind from the side podmenili seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm from all four sides, leaving a hole in the bottom of the cuffs for screwing out. The seams on the rounded cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 see
Cuff turn, spread and spawn circle from podmenili with piping with a width of 0.3 cm. aperture blind stitch hem stitches. Cuff priorivet from podmenili and along the edge lay the finishing line width depending on model (Fig. 57, b). The sides are finished cuffs connect butt.
Connection cuffs with sleeves. Ready detachable cuffs worn on the treated sleeves. The rounded cuffs have to match the finishing lines along the upper seams of the sleeves. The lower edge of the cuff release 0.2 cm for bottom of sleeves. Primetyvajut cuffs straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm in the middle of the cuffs, and then connected to the sleeves blind stitch manual stitches with a stitch frequency of 3 in 1 see the Top folded cuff 1 - 2 cm, attached to the sleeve over the stitches manual stitches invisible from the front side (Fig. 57).
Fixed cuffs connected to the sleeves, not trimmed. Cuffs outline a line of bending the bottom and connect them with sleeves so that the crest line of the bottom cuff coincides with the line of bending the bottom of the sleeves. Cuff primetyvajut in the middle. The hem, cuffs and sleeves bend inside the sleeve and zametyvayut. Sleeve lining pritachivajut to the allowances cuffs and hem sleeves. The cuff is then folded and secured as described above.
Fixed cuffs can be connected with sleeves, in which the bottom has no allowance for ACC. Lower cut cuff lining pritachivajut to the lower shear sleeve seam width of 0.8 - 1 see Hemming cuff round the seam protecive lining cuff sleeves and zametyvayut. The sequence of fixing the cut of the cuffs bending over the pad and the connection pads of the sleeve on the bottom depends on the processing methods (Fig. 57, g).
Treatment banded cuffs and connecting them with sleeves. Banded cuffs can be with zipper or without it. Depending on the model at the bottom of sleeves processed tuck or Assembly. After processing the front seam on the sleeves for utility templates outline the location of the Darts. Then they grind and rautureau or iron depending on the model.
If at the bottom of the sleeve provided by the Assembly, after processing the front seam of the sleeve at its bottom lay for two machine lines with a weakened upper thread and the stitches are rare: one, departing from the lower edge of the sleeves is 0.3 - 0.4 cm, and the second - on 0,8 - 1 cm and Then the stitches pull together and evenly distribute the Assembly. The length of the cut sleeve assemblies must match the length of the cuff.
On the wrong side of the cuff is applied the gasket (if it is provided in the technical description of the model) so that the cut strip was housed from the intended line of inflection at a distance of 0.2 cm Fixed gasket manual stitches in the middle part of the stitch length 2 - 3 cm, on a special machine or an adhesive method using iron. Treatment of the lateral ends of the cuff performed similar to the processing of the tabs (see Chapter 1, p 10). Cuff priorivet (Fig. 58, a).
Prepared cuff connected to the bottom of the sleeve, combining slices and on one side, and pritachivajut with the gasket on the sleeve seam width of 1 cm, uniformly dispensing Assembly. Seam primaqiune iron to the side of the sleeves. Then grind off the elbow sections of the sleeves and at the same time the side sections of the cuff. Stefannie seams rautureau on spetsnaladka (Fig. 58, b). Allowance the cuffs folded inside of the intended line on the wrong side and zametyvayut manual stitch length 2 - 3 cm or on a special machine, retreating from the inflection at 1 - 1.5 cm.The lining of the sleeves sew the front and elbow joints with a width of 1 cm Stefanou lining pritachivajut to the bent slice cuff seam 1 cm wide from the cuffs with a combination of elbow joints.
Seam protecive lining to the cuff attached to the suture cuff hand-stitches with a length of 1 - 1,5 cm and Then attach the elbow seam of the lining to the outside seam of the top sleeve. Turn the sleeve on the front side, the lining stretched and namachivajut along the crown according to the rules described above.
Connection sleeves with armholes products
Sleeves with armholes products connect bridging a seam width of 1 cm with the direction of the seam towards the sleeve, sew-in sock or patch seam. According to the model, you can razoruzhenie seam vrachevanie sleeve portions of the openings. In the products of the delicate tissues of the sleeve in the armhole stachivaya together with side strip.
Before connecting the sleeves with the armholes validate / Refine the line sections of the openings of goods and prepared to arm connection. Sleeve check the symmetry of their length, width, height of crown, the quality of treatment, availability of test nasechek. Lifts the shoulders need to test the notch at the line of the front roll, at the top of the crown and at the level line of the elbow roll. In accordance with the control nasecki on the crown must bear the reference notch on the armholes, shelves and backs.In the manufacture of apparel according to individual orders of the control notch is applied during the fitting depending on the shape; mass production of clothing the reference nasechek is determined in the design.
When preparing for setting sleeves in the armhole you need to check also the compatibility of okatov sleeveless arm openings on the perimeter. Check the perimeters of the openings and okatov sleeves is recommended before treatment of the ulnar joints. The top part of the sleeve should be more openings on the perimeter depending on the model and type of fabrics. Below are the normal landing fabric on the crown sleeve 1 cm of the perimeter of the openings.