Treatment of the shoulder seams
The connection of the shoulder sections is responsible for the operation, because their processing depends on the fit on the figure (the overall balance of the product). When connecting the shoulder sections of the front and the back fold, right sides inside, call shoulder seams, precisely aligning the corners of the neck and the corners of the shelves and the back side of the armholes. Misalignment of slices and control nasechek entails a violation of the overall balance.For training purposes shoulder seams smatyvay back straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm, retreating from the slices of 0.8 - 0.9 cm and making the fit of the back, starting from the corner of the neck, on the stretch of 1.5 - 2 cm before reaching the openings on the 3 4 see Most planting is done in the center of this area. Fit need to fit the shapes in the blades. The size of the landing depends on the design of the product, structure, fabrics and shapes ordered. Smatyvay shoulder sections with clips at the beginning and end of the seam, and pinning the landing, so she didn't move.The product was then laid out on the table shoulder cuts to working and storevault boarding; the iron should not go over sections more than 2 - 3 cm To facilitate the implementation ofthe wet-heat treatment of landing on the back can be replaced by tuck.
Sew shoulder seams from the shelf seam 1 cm wide with clips at the beginning and at the end of the line. Thread smachivaniya is removed, the suture moisturize and rautureau on a special pad. Razoruzhenie seam is accompanied by stygiana landing on the back. Derived from sutureline bulge is withdrawn and the edge of the iron in the direction of the blades without stretching the neck.
With mass production garment shoulder seams sew without smachivaniya seam 1 cm width with side shelves.
Depending on the model shoulder seams can be decorated with stitching, then after reputazione shoulder seam iron in the back side, zametyvayut and on the front side of the finishing line scribbled on the back of a width depending on the model.
The main causes of violation of the overall balance of the product when grinding the shoulder sections are the following:
1) wrong connection of corners of the mouth (when the connection of the shoulder sections of the angle from the neck shelves is released to the side of the neck, the bottom shelf will disperse, and the backrest is in the lower part to lag behind the figures; when the connection of the shoulder sections, the angle of the neck backless released towards the neck shelves, then the opposite will happen: shelves at the bottom will go more than necessary, and the back to fit the figure);
2) inaccurate connection of the shoulder sections (if the shoulder cut shelves moved throughout the length of the shoulder seam over the cut of the back, the back longer and will the bottom snugly to the figure, and the shelves will go at each other more than necessary; if the shoulder cut of the back is moved over the section of shelves, then the back is shortened, the leaves at the bottom of the figure and pulls shelves, making shelves on the bottom differ).
The collars in the product have a utilitarian and decorative purpose. In form they varied and divided into five major groups:
1) collars for products with zipper top;
2) collars to the products with the clasp to the lapel (shawl collars and business suits). A characteristic feature of these collars is that the crest line stand collar serves as a continuation of the line of inflection lapel. The width of the flight and the shape of the ends of the collar needs to be linked to the size and shape of the lapel;
3) collars-cutting stand;
4) collars-tselnokrajnie stand with shelves and back;
5) different collars for products with zipper top and to the lapel (fantasy, with a soft drape, etc.).
In appearance, depending on the form of collars there are internal invisible part - the bar and the visible - migration. Divided the portions of the crest line of the rack. The collars in the process of treatment it is necessary to give the density, stability, elasticity. The seal collar is made by connection of the lower collar with a strip thread or glue method. Slices of departure and the ends of the collar are treated obecnym seam or a seam in the hem with fixing manual stitches, zigzag stitching on emergency vehicles blind stitch or glue method.Collars it is recommended to combine with products already assembled, with the exception of products from collars, single cut shoulder with podborany. Collar jacket coat consists of a top collar, bottom and gaskets. The rules of nesting and the direction of the warp threads provided in paragraph 4.
Treatment of the lower collar
Part of the lower fold collar, right sides inside, and spread on the slice counter. Grind off part of the seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and the width of the middle seam of 1 cm and Then the stitches rautureau. Simultaneously with razotajiem seams produisait lower collar, with the aim of dekotirovaniem (seal tissue) . Of the strip connect the patch seam with open cuts or seam, butt, equating them to cut the strut. The gasket collar is placed on the Ironing table cut resistant working, moisturize and produisait with the aim of dekotirovaniem.The gasket with the bottom collar connect in various ways: hand, machine and glue.
A manual method. For training purposes the gasket with the bottom collar connect manual stitches (Fig. 48, a). On the lower collar from the inside is applied the gasket with a combination of line means. Wystawianie starts from the middle of collar hand-quilting stitches slanting stitch length 1 - 1,5 cm Paving the first line in the middle, the left end of the collar tightening with the free location of the strip of the collar and continue wystawianie with the distance between rows of stitches equal to 0.7 - 0.8 cm, gradually unwinding the collar.Quilting lines end before reaching the sections of the rack and departure on a distance of 1.2 cm, depending on the processing methods of the departure of the collar and coupling with the neck. When you are finished wystawianie left halves of the collar, turn it over and in the same manner wasteheat a right half. When wystawianie must comply with the rules specified for wystawiania lapels (see Chapter 1, p 8).
The machine mode. The connection strip with the lower collar on the blindstitch machine. Wystawianie perform from the strip, Posiva it, to create the desired shape of the collar. Narrow lower collars wasteheat lines along its length (Fig. 48, b). The first line laid parallel to the edge of a rack at a distance of 1.2 cm from the cut edge, the other - parallel to the first with a distance between them of 0,5 - 0,7 see the location of the last line depends on the processing method of departure.
Wide bottom collars wasteheat lines in the transverse direction (Fig. 48). The first line feature along the line of the middle seam, all subsequent parallel to the first at a distance from each other equal to 1.5 - 2 cm or 3 - 4cm depending on shape. Initially, wystawianie perform from the middle one and then the other side. Distance to cutoff struts 1.2 cm, to cut departure, depending on the way it is processed.
In the collar is notched on the shear stand tuck grind off after the connection of the lower collar with the strip, then trimmed the excess fabric, leaving a seam allowance. A strip of seam carving, the seams of the Darts rautureau.
The connection strip with the lower collar on sanding and special machines. This method is used for the standing-turn-down collars, where required rigidity of the rack and the softness of departure. First wasteheat rack, and then flying away (Fig. 48, g). On the plot stands strip connection is performed on the sanding machine equity lines from the bottom of the collar. The departure of the lower collar wasteheat on a blindstitch machine with a hand strip.
Adhesive method. Connecting the adhesive strip with the lower collar requires exact shape of the lower collar, gaskets and arrangement of parts. When you pin consider ways of connecting the upper collar with the bottom at the departure and ends and connecting the lower collar to the neck. Thus, when grinding the departure and end sections of the strip should not go into 0.7 cm slices until the bottom of the collar (bead width). When processing and departure ends of the seam bodybu strip secured to the sections of the lower collar.Slice the rack spacer must be located at a distance of 1 and 1.1 cm from the cut edge, if the collar will connect to bridging the seam, or at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm when connecting collar overlay, seam.
Strip the bottom collar of the fabric with an adhesive coating cuts out two parts and the connection to the lower collar part does not connect. On the underside of the lower collar is applied of the strip adhesive down the parallel arrangement of the sections, considering ways of handling the collar and connecting it with the neck (Fig. 48, d). The adhesive strip with the bottom collar tie in to a press or iron. To give the lower collar in the required forms it obmeleet mold and cut along the planned lines.Omelko perform from the side of the top fabric of the lower collar having its cut resistant working. The chalk line is applied to a finely-honed chalk. Produce the pruning shears or on emergency vehicles, cutting the chalk line. At the same time at the front bottom of collar to put the necessary control characters to connect with the neck. The strip along the cut stand cut to the width of the seam compound, equal to 1.2 cm, and along the cut leaving the ends of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (the seal should not get into the seam).When connecting parts of the lower collar overlay, seam and open cut strip cut 0.1 - 0.2 cm relative to the cut of top fabric.
Connecting the upper collar with the lower
The upper collar moisturize and produisait iron with the aim of dekotirovaniem and shape in accordance with the shape of the lower collar. In the individual production cut each collar separately from the inside out, focusing on the shape of the lower collar. In mass production the top collars are Packed into small packs for 7 - 10 wrong side facing up, fasten with clips and cut on the cutting machine template.The upper collar must be greater than the bottom at the departure and ends at a value necessary for obtaining Kant, rounding edges and creating the right arrangement of parts in accordance with the shape of the collar. The amount of the allowance depends on the thickness and structure of fabrics, models and is determined separately for each product.
Collars grind as pre namachivayam top of collar to bottom, and without it. Grinding the collars without namachivanija allowed, subject to the availability of good quality treatment. The upper collar namachivajut on the bottom in two ways: manual stitches or off highway.
When namatanaimanual stitches lower collar laid out on the table face up, cut departure to the running and cover the top of the collar face down so that the upper sections of the collar closed sections of the lower 1 - 1.2 cm Collar namachivajut two lines. The first line divided the right angle in half, stepping back from him at 1.5 - 2 cm, then namachivajut by the line of bend of the rack and end up dividing the left corner into two parts. Namachivaya doing straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm.The second line lay along the slices of departure and the ends of the collar at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from them slanted stitches, starting from the left end along the departure and ending with the right end. When the second lines sections of the fly and ends the top of the collar to move inward so as to between the lines formed by the landing and required for processing of the collar (Fig. 49, a).
When namatanai on emergency vehicles (Fig. 49, b) the collar laid out on the table face up, placed on top of the lower collar inside out so that the upper sections of the collar were regarding sections of the lower to the required value. Namachivaya carry out the ends and go from the bottom of the collar on emergency vehicles with the distance from slices 1.5 - 2 cm Frequency machine stitch 2 stitch 1 cm When namatanai pokazyvaut the upper collar ends of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on fabric and collar shape.Slice the rack of the upper collar needs to be cut relative to the rack bottom by 0.8 - 1 cm.
Before grinding the fit of the upper collar sativum the side surface of the iron, without going further than 1.5 - 2 cm from the cut edge so as to place the grinding got Studeny section of the cut top of the collar. From the bottom of the collar mold obmeleet a line of stitching around the ends of the collar. The grinding is performed by the lower collar on the sanding machine, seam width of 0.6 - 0.7 cm, or car with a knife seam width 0.3 - 0.4 cm (for a collar with the finishing line) and 0.6 - 0.7 cm (without collar for the finishing lines), the ends of collar grind on the planned line.Line grinding of starts and stops on level sections, or stand before reaching slices 1 cm (the width of the joint connection with the neck).
Before razotajiem seam stitching around the collar, check the location of the strip along sections of the flight. The seal should not enter the seam. Seam grinding moisturize and rautureau on spetsnaladka. For more delicate region of departure and ends in the products of the pile fabric from the seam and remove the pile (without affecting the threads of the weave) after steaming the seam with a razor blade scissors or knife. Further processing of the collar depends on the model and can be with finishing or without finishing stitches on the edge.
Treatment collar with decorative stitching. After grinding the collar seam pruned by hand, leaving a seam allowance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm, and in the corners of collar width of 0.2 - 0.3 see the Collar turn on the front side and spawn from the bottom of the collar. When the inflorescence emerge straighten and fix edging from top of collar width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, depending on tissue thickness.
Inflorescence emerge when you manually execute the line, excluding the weld, at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge of the slanted stitches with a length of 1 - 1,5 cm After the buttonhole is recommended to lay a second line parallel to first at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the edge of the slanted stitches in the length 2 - 3 cm Line perform from the top of the collar, bending the edge toward the bottom. This line clips the edges, evenly placing the fit of the upper collar.
Place the buttonhole on emergency vehicles navigate at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the edge.
Collar priorivet iron or press with the bottom of the collar, the positioning collar edge of the fly to a running. Before the final driving must remove the thread to the temporary duty assignment. After the adhesive collar of departure and ends spawn manual slant stitch length 2.5 - 3 cm, Then lay the finishing line.
Treatment of the collar without the finishing stitches. When namatanai section of the upper collar on the departure release with respect to the lower 0.3 cm After grinding the seam allowance at the bottom of the collar pruned, leaving 0.3 - 0.4 cm Seam grinding attached to the strip of the lower collar hand stitches on emergency vehicles blind stitch, using the adhesive film or on a sanding machine.
When attaching the hand stitches seam is directed toward the bottom of the collar, positioning it with the Kant due to the upper collar. Suturing perform slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 cm, the inflorescence emerge and further processing to produce, as in the collars with the finishing line.
For fixation on emergency vehicles blind stitch the collar pre-spawn at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the edge. When pinning a seam for the padding stitches should not be up to 1.5 - 2 cm from the corners of the collar to avoid bending parts.
When applying the adhesive film it on emergency vehicles or through a fixture on the strip of the lower collar about a line after resoluzione and trimming the seam. When attaching the seam stitching around the collar on sanding machine seam scribbled on the front side of the lower collar at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the line.
When checking the quality of the machined collar of his laid out on the table top with the collar up, cut resistant working and check the connection details. Top landing collar should be distributed without bias. To check the symmetry of the sides of the collar bend at the seam, and comparing the left and right sides. Performing a verification from the bottom of the collar, pay attention to connect it with the gasket, roveto and width of the edge, and the edge thickness. Connection details should be with a uniform fastening without visible stitches on the front side.Connecting and finishing lines shall be made in accordance with the requirements specified in table. 3, and prutivka in accordance with the technical requirements of the implementation wet-thermal papers.
The connection of the collar with the neck
With the neck of the processed products connect collar or the lower collar, which will later be covered with the upper collar (in the processing of the fly seam to the hem and if the collar is one-piece with podborta). The lower collar with the neck of the connecting bridging or patch seam.
Before connecting the bottom of the collar with the neck of the bridging seam clarify and cut the slices stand collar, Raskatov of podborov and neck. Line Raskatov outline on the front side of the upper collar and podborov (each separately). The ends of the line Raskatov on the upper collar and the transverse control podborta put the notch. In podborta and upper collar cut on the seam allowance, leaving 0,8 - 1 see
The connection of the lower collar with the neck and podborov with the top collar is performed on a sanding machine with advanced ultimanium. Umatyvaet collar in the neck from the bottom of the collar, putting his face to the side of the shelves, equating sections and combining middle of the bottom of the collar to the middle of the neck back and the ends of the collar with the control nasecki on the neck of the shelves.
In the educational process to facilitate ultimania the shear collar with the neck of the pins on the control ndsatcom. Umatyvaet collar at one time, from the right end of the lower collar to the left or two steps from the middle of the bottom of the collar to the left end and then from the right end to the middle. The width of the seam ultimania 0.7 - 0.9 cm, straight stitches with a length of 1.5-2 cm with occasional fixing of loop-like stitches. When processing of thick tissue at the bottom of the collar ultimania side padding around the neck is put aside.In the products of the delicate tissues of the lower collar umatyvaet in the neck along with side strip.
When matiwane lower collar portion of the neck from mid back to the edge of the Board is conventionally divided into four sections with different requirements to each of them (Fig. 50).
I division from the middle of the back, not reaching the line of the shoulder seam by 1.5 - 2 cm Lower collar umatyvaet evenly without landing.
II section - above the shoulder seam (shoulder seam line 1.5 - 2 cm in the back side and 3 - 4 cm to the side of the shelves). For uniform fit of the collar leaving the shoulder of the products on this site pokazyvaut lower collar 0,5 - 0,7 see
III plot from the end 11 of the plot to the line of inflection lapel coat with a zip up lapel and short on 2 - 3 cm until the end of the neck in a coat with a zipper top. This site has a slanting cut and subjected to the greatest tension during the processing of the product, in addition, it is located over the convexity of the clavicle. To create a convex shape to hug the collarbone, on this site pokazyvaut the neck 0.5 - 0.7 cm (the magnitude of the landing of the lower collar II on the site).
IV section - part of the neck from the end of the third phase before the Board. For the IV portion of the bottom collar connected to the neck evenly without landing.
When connecting the lower collar to the neck may occur following defects:
the seam connecting parts of the lower collar is not aligned with the line of the middle or middle seam of the back. For defect elimination it is necessary to unpick the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar to fasten the lower collar pins with the neck on the control nadechka, starting from the middle, and re-connect;
the lower landing collar at the first portion causes the gap of the lower collar from the neck;
allowed fit neck at the first phase creates the fold at the back under the collar;
no landing lower collar II on the site does not provide diffraction neck lower collar;
did not fit on the III portion of the neck doesn't create diffraction collarbone shelves;
landing on the IV curves plot the line of the lapel;
the asymmetric arrangement of parts of the neck is skewed in the region of the neck. The defect is allowed due to the displacement of sections of one half of the neck relative to the other.
To eliminate these defects, it is necessary to flog the bottom collar and re-connect it with the neck, considering the requirements of the connection.
When checking the overall balance of the product can be identified the following violations and recommended ways of correcting them: when connecting a short collar with the neck of the shelves will go in the lower part more than necessary, and the back at the bottom will fit tightly to the figure; when connecting long collar (neck stretched) shelves will diverge in the lower part, and the backrest down behind the figure. In both cases, the collar whipping of the neck and agree on the size of the neck and collar.
After checking the connection of the lower collar with the neck of metiaut recepy. Smachivanie produce from podborov, equating the slices and combining the control notch, control the alignment of the joints, grinding of the collar and side. Stitch the bottom of the collar is performed with simultaneous grinding of the seams Raskatov one line without breakage of the thread, starting from the left seam rascepa. Stachivaya on the lower collar, itracku lay under matiwane at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the edge.Another possible sequence of connection of the collar with the neck: first, grind off raskay, and then stachivaya lower collar into the neck and Vice versa.
Seam vrachevaniebottom of collar in the neckline and seams Raskatov rautureau on a special pad, positioning the product to a working collar. To avoid lengthy shoulder seams rip before reaching the line of vrachevanie bottom of collar 0.5 cm Seam bottom of collar clips for laying a hand slanting stitches on emergency vehicles or for sanding machine, padding line parallel to the seam vrachevanie at a distance 0.2 cm away from the front side of the lower collar. From the seam of the neck is cut out on the side strip.The cut throat side of the strip, not fixed during vrachevanie, attached to the lower strip of the collar simultaneously with the fastening seam. Seams Raskatov must be attached to the suture connection of the lower collar with the neck. Attaching perform manual straight stitches with a length of 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 51, a), or by using the adhesive film (Fig. 51, b). In the mass production of the adhesive film are laid along the seams Raskatov film machine, starting from the shoulder and going to 2 - 3 cm, the inflection of the lapel. Film width 0.3 - 0.4 cm
The upper collar namachivajut on the lower manual stitch length of 1.5-2 cm, laying the line along the seams Raskatov on the upper collar at a distance of 0.2 cm from them and the inflection of the rack, creating a customized fit of the upper collar bend the racks of the lower collar. Then fix the seams Raskatov from podborta manual straight stitches with a length of 1 - 1.5 cm at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam rascepa. In products from fine fabrics to prevent the seam on the plot Raskatov put a strip of calico, or calico fabric.
The connection of the lower collar with the neck patch seam indicated in Chapter 2, p 10 "Treatment court".
Features of processing of collars and connecting them with product
Collars, tselnokrajnie with tops podborov. Processing boards of the bottom of the collar and connecting it with the neck performed as described in Chapter 1, p 9. Top collar, one-piece with the upper parts of podborov (shawl collar), grind on a medium-sized sections with a seam width of 1 cm, at the same time pritachivajut extensions to podborta.
After the wet-heat treatment of the upper collar with podborany namachivajut on the product. First on the table lay the collar with podborany face up, placed on top of the product face down, aligning the middle lines on the upper and lower collars. The sections of the collar with podborany release 0.7 - 1 cm relative to the relevant sections of the product. The first line of namachivanija are laid along the breakline of the lapel and bend the rack from the side strips. The product was then inverted collar and podborany up and namachivajut him podborta and upper collar.After stivania landing Board and collar grind in one step from the edge (Fig. 52).
In a similar way treated side and collar seams with sacanime Raskatov.
Detachable stand-up collar. To handle the stand-up collar, you need the following parts cut: top collar located on the outer side of the lower collar adjacent to the neck, and strip. Processing and departure ends of the collar fulfill obecnym seam with the formation of Kant from top of collar width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm (depending on fabric).
The lower collar reinforcing strip, clipping her thread, or adhesive method, as in turn-down collars. Then, prutivka and trim the upper and lower collars. Collar grind, seam rautureau, the excess fabric in the corners are cut, leaving 0,2 - 0,3 cm, then turn, spawn and priorivet. The finished collar connects with the neck.
In products from fine fabrics umatyvaet collar in the neck from the bottom collar with the top on the portion of the neck of shelves and neckline backless umatyvaet only the upper collar, tilting the lower. Slice the racks of the lower collar above the shoulders cut. The ends of the collar overlap podborany, peregnul them on the front side of the shelves, and fasten in the seam ultimania collar.
Stachivaya collar in the neck from the collar. The splice seam of the collar with the neck at the site of the back rautureau. Cut the lower collar is attached to the seam vrachevanie collar by hand or by machine. The products thick fabric, the connection of the stand-up collar produce, as in turn-down collars when processing bridging seam.