Technical requirements for the processing of lining
The lining lining is made from cotton, silk and synthetic fabrics. Depending on the model lining can be to the bottom or coat to the hip line (15 - 20 cm below the waist line). The lining can be unfastened (loose bottom) and locked. With a shortened lining, the presence of folds, creases, raskrashennoy lining handle unfastened. Coat with slits in the side seams or in the middle seam of the back lining at the bottom of the garment needs to be fixed. In products with unfastened lining bottom attached to the bottom of the garment above the side seams by means of holders.To change the internal dimensions of products in individual production along the middle of the back lining lay the crease, sending the stock fabric in the direction opposite to the direction of autoimune allowances of middle seam of the back.
The lining with the product connect manual, machine or combined method. Side and shoulder sections, the middle sections of the back, the cuts of the sleeves and the seam of the connection of the sleeves with the armholes connect bridging the joints with width from 1 to 1.5 cm (depending on the degree of falling of the fabric) and then iron. Thread color should match the color of the coat lining.
Prepared to connect to the product lining can be in different stages of processing: it can be processed with side and middle seam of the back (with open shoulder sections), and can be fully processed (with machined shoulder, side seams, middle seam of the back, with processed and sleeves United). Tuck the lining can be Stacey or pre-laid and fixed only when you connect it with the product. The choice of method depends on the model, type of production and production conditions.
The lining complements inner pocket, proderzhaly and hanger. The inside pocket is fixed on the shelf right under the pad between the waist and hips. The entrance to the pocket is treated in the splice seam of the lining with podborta or podborta. The edge of the pocket in the seam connection is decorated with finishing lines in different patterns (zigzag lines, parallel, broken, etc.) and Ruche (pleated and zig-zag edge). The edges of the pocket on podborta edging of lining fabric width 0.3 - 0.4 cm Inner pocket required in products without side pockets.
Proderzhaly designed to pederzani the edge of the left side of the shelf to prevent it from sagging. It is an elongated hinged loop or consists of two different length ends for tying. Coat with the displaced onboard fastener must be with proceratium and coat with the Central onboard fastener on request of the customer or model. In the products of tissue high the list of groups proderzhaly treated in a hinged loop. The hanger clips along the line of the neck at the collar down the middle of the neck backless.
In the manufacture of products for individual orders the details of the lining cut out detail top after fitting of the product. In mass and serial production of parts cut out lining simultaneously with the details of top coat on the patterns. When cutting details lining give allowances for changes in the internal dimensions of the product during wear. The size of these allowances, cm, is shown in Fig. 63.
Unfastened the hem of the lining is recommended to cut in the lower part is the top coat at 4 to 5 cm, narrowing it down along the side seams from the hip line. When a stitched the lining the shape of its bottom should match the top coat on the bottom.
The outer section of burlap inside pocket cut out in the form of a side cut shelves lining; width burlap pocket - 15,5 - 16 cm, length - 30 - 32 refer to the Size of the pocket and the depth of the fold depends on the width of a hand and allowance for free passage of the hands.
Proderzhaly cut out in the form of rectangular strips with a length of 70 - 80 cm, width 3.5 - 4 cm.
Length details for hanger 9 - 10cm, width - 2.5 - 2.8 cm
Treatment details lining
Interior pocket. Details burlap pocket fold, right sides inside, equalizing sections, and grind off the seam width 1 - 1.5 cm depending on the degree of falling of the fabric.
When grinding the line begin and end before reaching the sections of the pocket by 1 cm and fixing it in the beginning and end of the seam. Cuts burlap from fraying fabrics overcast off highway one line, retreating from the slices of the pocket by 1 cm (the same distance as when skiving). Handling burlap finish priduzivanja.
Then the inner part of the burlap pritachivajut to the onboard cut strips of the shelf (between nasecki lining) seam 1 cm wide, with a burlap pocket face to the side lining and equalize the seam of the lining and burlap. The line begin and end with the clips. Then the burlap pocket bend towards the inside of the shelves, straighten the edge with the formation of Kant from the shelf liner width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm and fixed in a zigzag or curved line at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge.
When connecting the lining with podborta in the area of the pocket is cut the lining to podborta pritachivajut cut burlap pocket.
Features internal pocket with different finishes. To handle ruffle pleated cut out a strip of fabric the length of the main or weft yarn width of about 3 to 4 cm Strip to bend along the length in the middle of the underside and inside priorivet. Then on marked lines lay unilateral folds to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm and fixed machine stitch them at a distance of 1 cm from the slices. Rush priorivet, then applied it to the front of the shelves, equating sections and pritachivajut to the place of fastening of the folds from the ruching.
Primaqiune internal pockets to side cut of the lining is performed from the inside out shelves in the line of primaqiune ruffles. Region after correcting for the stability of the fixed finishing stitching in the lining at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the line connection ruffle with lining, or seam allowance connections burlap lined scribbled on the burlap at a distance of 0.1 - 0.3 cm from the seam on the front side of the burlap.
In the processing of the ruffle with a zigzag edge strip of fabric with a width of 4 cm is cut into square pieces. Every part of bend diagonally with wrong side inside two times, forming triangles in which all slices are on the one hand, and priorivet. The thus prepared triangles are investing into one another and fasten machine stitching at a distance of 1 cm from the slices. Further processing of the inner pockets with zigzag edge is produced as described above.
Proderzhaly. Progenital fold in half lengthwise, face side inside, equating sections. Grind off the seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm equity side and one transverse end. After screwing out the front obtekanii corner cut off, proderzhaly straighten, positioning the seam along the edge of braska.
Then proderzhaly priorivet, consolidating the straightened edge. The width of oldergames 1 - 2 cm Proderzhaly bend a length in half with the formation of the hinged loop so that the bend make a triangle, and the welds grinding butt was located. The base of the triangle secured on the sanding machine double triple machine stitch or do the backstitching on emergency vehicles.Then the ends of oldergames impose the slices one on another, bonded to the tailor's pin and, departing from the clips on the size of the diameter of the buttons (1.5 - 2 cm), fixed a second time parallel to the first set, getting a loop for the button of oldergames. The length of the clips is 0,5 - 0,7 see Proderzhaly priorivet. In the manufacture of oldergames of the two parts of the treatment all comes down to grinding, wyvernian, preatorian and executed as described above.
Hanger. The hanger is made from strips of lining fabric, padding line in the middle on the front side at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold bent slice. The width of the hanger ready to 0.7 cm, length 8 - 9 cm For hangers it is recommended to apply special nylon cord or tape.
Treatment of holders lining. When unfastened at the hem to the lining of her bond with the bottom of the coat with holders length 8 - 10 cm Treatment holders perform as well as the processing of the hanger.
Installation of lining
Unit-by-unit handling of the lining depends on the chosen method of connection of the lining with the top of the product. Tuck in the lining prior to processing note nasecki and tattoos (if raskryvanie flooring) or omelet on the patterns. Omelko performed on the patterns from the inside out, causing the line means, one of the sides and line the length of the tuck. Top Darts and Darts from the shoulder sections of the back bend through the middle or with reference to the notch and tattoos face inward.
Skiving is performed by the most direct side - a tuck from top to bottom, and the other from the bottom up. At the end of the Darts the same as in the beginning, put a tack double machine stitching. Side tuck grind similar to the top - right shelf from top to bottom and on the left from the bottom up. For piecing together the middle sections of the back parts are folded, right sides inside, equating sections. Grinds are made from the neck of the back down.
The side sections of the shelves and backs, fold right sides inwards and sew, aligning the reference notch of the back side. In the right side seam when stitching put proderzhaly, at the same time securing his place. In products direct silhouette proderzhaly have 2 - 3 cm below the armhole, and in the products of adjacent silhouette - at the level of the waist line. In addition, proderzhaly attached in addition to the shelf lining at a distance of 12 - 15 cm from the side seam transverse line on the sanding machine.
The seams of the lining (side and back seam), unfastened at the hem, overcast over the entire length or at a distance of 40 - 50cm from the hem of the adult and 25 - 30 cm children's range. Products in the flared sections of the overcast lining to the waist line.
Shoulder seams of the lining, shelves and back call, adding the details of the face inside and grind off the shelves, Posiva shoulder cut of the lining of the back. Sleeve linings are treated as described in p 14. Stachivaya sleeve in the armhole lining, equating sections and control the notch in the lining of the sleeves, Posiva the crown in accordance with the fit top sleeves. The allowances of the shoulder seams directed toward the back and side seams - depending on the method of fastening stitches.
In the middle of the neck lining back hook hanger, equating its ends with cut of the neckline backless. Hanger scribbled on rasstojanii 0,7 - 0,8 cm on the seam of the connection pads with the product. Lining produisait from the inside out with iron, sautieva Darts and seams.
The connection pads unfastened on the bottom, with the top of the product
Manual. Coat, prepared for connection to the lining, laid out on the table wrong side up and collar right side edge of the left shelves to the workers. Top product cover lined with Nesmachnyi shoulder seams and Darts on the top face up. Left shelf lining trap in the back side, call side seams of top and a lining, releasing the lining at the armholes cut into 1 - 1.5 cm Before fixing the side seams to check the location of the shoulder sections, the sections of the neck and the armholes of the lining relative to the location of the corresponding slices in the top.The seam of the lining should overlap the treated area to the width of the seam.
Then the side seams of the lining and the top seal manual straight stitch length 2 - 2.5 cm at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the side seam of the top, receded from the openings of 6 - 8 cm and ending at the hips and flared coat - at the level of the waist line. Behind left shelf lining to the top shelf to prevent displacement of the side seams, begin basting the lining to the top of the product. Namachivaya perform on the back parallel to the side seam at a distance from it equal to 0;5-1 cm, starting and ending line at the level of internal fixation of the joint.Then fix the right side seam of the lining is similar to left.
The back of the lining and spread in the middle along the width of the lay of the crease, sending the stock towards the left side of the back. Fold zametyvayut manual straight stitches with a length of 2 - 4 cm top to bottom along the fold at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold, stepping back from the edge of the neck of 6 - 8 cm and ending at lower edge. Perform end-to-end stitches on the puncture, but not reaching the bottom of the coat 20 - 30 cm pleated zametyvayut, not capturing backless top.
Coat move the edge of the right side of the shelf to a working, the lining of the spread straight out, and namachivajut along side of the cut lining at a distance of 6 - 8 cm, departing from the lower edge of the coat 20 - 30 cm, Bringing the line to the end tuck top, top coat and lifted in accordance with the shape of the breast lay a top tuck padded shoulder slice or cut openings. Tuck fix, continuing the line of namachivanija, before reaching the shoulder seam of 6 - 8 cm and Then reinforce the lining along the shoulder seam of the armhole and go back.
On the back lining namachivajut along the armholes, parallel to the shoulder seams and the neck of the back, passing on the left shelf lining (Fig. 64). Namachivaya the left side produced similar right. Before fixing lining it is necessary to identify the internal sections of podborov and cut the strut top collar, creating a single coherent line. For the planned line to leave a seam allowance of 1 cm, cutting irregularities in the lining.
Slices of podborov and stand collar attached to a strip of hand stitches on a special machine or adhesive tape. In products with a zip up lapel during the fixing of podborta lapel folded. Before fixing lining, it is advisable to attach podomatic, as mentioned above.
Side cut lining right shelves to buckle the inside of the intended line of podborta and zametyvayut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold manual straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm, creating a small slack lining at the level of the lines of the breast and thighs (without bias). Then fix the lining marking stitch on the right arm, from the shoulder cut of the back, having receded from it on 3 to 4 cm, and ending the stitching at the shoulder cut shelves, loop-like stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm Line lay near the seam vrachevanie sleeves.
Securing armhole, attach the shoulder cut shelves lining to the seam allowance of the shoulder cut of the back of the top across the length of the marking line. The shoulder cut of the lining of the back bends inward so that the fold coincides with the shoulder seam of the top products, and zametyvayut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold, laying the shoulder tuck, at the same time turning and fixing the lining on the portion of the neck. Then connect the lining on the left side similar to right.
Before you cover your lining at neckline backless fasten the ends of the hanger. This hanger features along the neck of the backrest so that the lower edge was at the level of the intended line, and the middle marks the middle of the collar. The ends of the hangers attached to the seam vrachevanie collar slanted stitches, while on the visible part of the collar are fastened with clips on emergency vehicles or manual cross-cutting stitches: In a coat of adjoining silhouette on shelves lining lay zametyvayut one tuck at the waist line, starting from the armhole down to the hip line.
The lining of the sleeves tighten, turning the cut into 1 cm, and zametyvayut along the armholes, overlapping the scribing line and having a fold at the level of the seam vrachevanie sleeves. The seams of the lining equalize with the seams of the top. When you cover your place and fix the fit of the lining on the crown in accordance with the fit top sleeves.
The lower section of the lining are cut, lay the coat down lining. The edge of the lining should overlap the inner cut of the ACC top 1-1,5 cm is Not moving product, placing the bottom edge of the top coat to the side and zametyvayut the lower section of lining with the formation of the seam bodybu closed slice width 4 - 5 cm Lower edge of the lining is fixed zigzag stitching or sanding machine, departing from the inner bend of 0.1 - 0.2 see
After processing the bottom start suturing lining. Her hem blind stitch stitching with silk threads with a frequency of 3 to 4 stitch per 1 cm Lining at the armholes, hem cotton threads with a frequency of 5 - 6 stitches per 1 cm Selection of thread refer to specifications on connection pads. The bond built into the process connection lining tucks and folds doing cross stitches with a length of 6 - 8 cm Pleat on the back lining fix in the collar, on the waist line and below the hip line.In the presence of tucks from the waist line they are secured on the waist, 3 - 4 cm in each direction. Built into the process connection lining the top of the tuck is fixed, departing at 2 - 3 cm down from shoulder seam. Bottom corner of boards with open podborta fasten tack on emergency vehicles or hand stitches.
Combined method of connection of the lining with the top of the product. With this method of connection, the lining should have stefannie top Darts, the middle sections of the back and the side sections (without connection of the shoulder sections) . Clarification of details of the lining to produce grinding of the shoulder sections of the top coat. Before connecting the lining with the top coat scheduled internal sections of podborov and cut the strut top collar, creating a single coherent line. For damage caused by line roughness of the lining cut.
Coat, prepared for connection to the lining, laid out on the table wrong side up, collar to the left edge of the right side shelves to the workers. Surface of the product is covered with lining face up. Specify the location of the side seams, side and shoulder sections, the sections of the neck and the armholes of the lining relative to the location of the corresponding slices in the top. Side cut lining at the level of lines of bust and hips to create a bit of slack.Internal cut podborta and respectively side cut lining is applied to three control the notch below the shoulder seam on a 15 - 17 cm, at the waist line and the hip line. Then on the right shelf lining and cut the left transfer marks on the right half of the products on the left side podbot and cut the lining.
Lining for educational purposes primetyvajut to podborta from the side of the lining, positioning the parts, right sides inside, equalizing control sections and the notch. The width of the seam primitivne 0.9 cm, straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm along the shelf on the right above the inner pocket secured brand name. Primaqiune perform seam 1 cm wide in the lining, before reaching the shoulder seam on 3 - 4 see
Then turn on the front side, straighten the sides and primetyvajut for podborta under protecive lining on emergency vehicles or manual straight stitch length of 2.5 - 3 see the Product at the same time placed on the table, lining up the edge of the Board to a working. In products with a zip up lapel lapel folded down. Then turn to wrong side and sew the seam protecive lining to side strip hand stitches blind stitch on emergency vehicles or by means of adhesive edges.Glue the edge of the paving from podborta during protecive lining, with its adhesive coating down.
Before screwing out of the product on the front side of the allowances of the side seams of the lining are attached to the allowances of the side seams of the top coat. Fastening seams and further processing after screwing out of the product is done in the manual way. Feature is handle the bottom of the lining, with machine stitching at the hem performed its fastening on the inner sections of podborov the width of the bent region. Line laid in the lining at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam protecive lining to podborta.
The machine mode of connection of the lining with the top of the product. With mass production of clothing lining the connection to the product process completely: sew Darts, medium-sized slices of the back, side and shoulder seams, cut the sleeves lining, stachivaya sleeve in the armhole and pritachivajut the hanger. Prepared for connection to the lining pritachivajut to the inner sections of podborov and cut the strut top collar on the control nadechka seam 1 cm wide.
Removing the product on the front side, produce propityvanie along podborta stand and upper collar, as described above. The product inside out and pin the seam protecive lining on the side to side strip for emergency vehicles, and the collar to the seam of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar to the neckline on the sanding machine.
The lower section of the lining sleeve pritachivajut to the lower shear sleeve upper seam 1 cm wide, removing the sleeve on the wrong side, the Seam protecive lining in sleeves attached to a strip of hand stitches hidden stitches on emergency vehicles or by using the adhesive film.
Elbow seams of the lining are attached to the elbow seams of the upper halves of the sleeves, sanding machine, departing from the bottom of the sleeves on the 6 - 8 cm Sleeve turn out on the front side, straighten the lining on top part, aligning the shoulder seams of top and a lining. Vrachevanie the seam of the sleeve lining is attached to the seam vrachevanie sleeve top from the inside lining of the sleeves (beginning at the top, and then at the bottom of the armhole) marking the lines of loop-like stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm Side seams of the lining connects with the side seams on the top of the sanding machine from the back.
The lower section of the lining process as described above. The connection is a stitched hem, lining with the product contained in the description of the processing of the jackets (see Chapter 2, p 9).