The characteristics and purpose of the side strip
Side strip is used to maintain the shape of the shelves obtained during their processing at the chest, sides, lapels, strength to sew buttons and sustainability form the Welt the loops. Side spacer placed between the parts of the shelves of the main fabric and lining.
The side strip is made from glue and nechaevym, woven and non-woven interlining materials (linen, half-linen, hair, viscose fabrics, nonwoven fabric, proklamelin, etc.). In products with unfastened at the bottom-lined interior cut side of the strip throughout the length needs to be serged off highway.
Depending on the silhouette, shapes, construction lines product side spacer cut out in different ways.
The types of side pads and methods of treatment
Side pads depending on the desired shape of the product can be treated differently. It can be soft and consist of one layer may be compacted in the field the shoulder pads and the chest - additional overlays. Thus the Assembly of the side strips can be produced as the glue, and thread method.
Side seal for products soft. Tuck in the side strip grind, and extensions pritachivajut one of the following types of stitches: a patch width of 0.5 - 0.7 cm with two open sections directed in different directions, sanding machine (Fig. 6, a, g) or a butt seam by putting a strip of cotton fabric with a width of 2 - 2.5 cm and fixing the lines from the joint parts by 0.5 - 0.7 cm from each side and machine zigzag stitching (Fig. 6, b, C). The choice of sutures depends on the thickness of the underlying tissue.
Treatment tucks depends on cutting (when cutting tuck the butt seam is used, when cut it in the middle slip joint). Stitching Darts start from the side sections of the strip, gradually reducing the seam and ending at 1 - 1.5 cm below the cut ends of the tuck.
Side strip with shoulder pads. For sealing the upper part of the product side seal handle with shoulder pads. The shoulder pads connect with the top side of the strip, equating them slices with slices from the base layer or retreating from them at 2 - 3 cm and scribbled on the sanding machine of the equity or transverse zigzag lines.
Equity location lines (Fig. 6, d) the first lines run parallel to the convex inner sections of the plates at a distance of 1 cm from them, the subsequent lines have a zigzag along the overlap with the distance between the corners 2 cm before reaching the shoulder cuts on the 4 - 5 cm
At cross-section location lines (Fig. 6, e) the first lines are laid parallel to the shoulder sections at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from them, and the subsequent zig-zag across the shoulder pads with the distance between the corners of 2 cm
side strip with extra lining in the chest area. For more severe forms of the product in the chest area on the side strip can be attached more pads of cushioning tissue. On-Board gasket with machined Darts impose an additional overlay, aligning the center of the chest at the side of the strip and lining. The top shoulder part of the side strip overlap the shoulder pad, as described above (see Fig. 6, d, e). Initially, the parts hold together on the center line to avoid shifting their machine stitching, and then wasteheat equity lines downward from the center of the chest one and then the other way.Wystawianie produce sanding or a special machine with a zigzag stitching with a distance between lines of 1 - 2 cm (Fig. 6, W, z).
If the pads have on the side strip from the side adjacent to the lining side strip wasteheat from the lining, and if the part adjacent to the parts top gasket wasteheat from the base layer. The lower part when wystawianie keep a little freer to provide the necessary bulge in the chest area. Treatment side strip with overlays of hair fabric listed in Chapter 2, p 2.
Treatment side strip way adhesive mount. In the processing side of the strip are different interlining fabric with glue impregnation of the entire surface, in the form of stripes or dots. Of these fabrics, cut out the needed parts for dimensional stability side pads: shoulder, additional linings, lapels.
With mass production garment Assembly and shaping of the side strips are produced on a press with special pillows: the lower concave and upper convex or lower convex, upper concave. At the bottom of the pillow placed side strip to one of the shelves. The on-Board strip according to the markings placed an additional overlay of adhesive to the gasket. Then stack the two shoulder pads, folded adhesive layer to the outside. Then stack the second additional strip adhesive side up and the gasket for the second shelves.By pressing the connecting parts and the molded strip for the two shelves of the product. Such shaping can be without hair pads.
Wet-heat treatment of the side gaskets
To seal and molding side strip her handle on the press or iron, folded left and right parts together. Before wet-heat processing on-Board the gasket thoroughly moistened and dried. In the processing side of the strip iron use the following techniques.
Stygiana in lapel and prutivka side (Fig. 7, b). The side strip is moistened and laid on the Ironing pad a lapel to the running, the center bulges on the chest should coincide with the centre of the convexity of the pad so that the pad was located 1/3 of the shoulder cut (from the neck). The slack on the cut of the lapel storevault, with the iron held in his right hand and his left hand hold and distribute the slack of the fabric. Then the side strip move and priorivet the remaining side piece to the bottom.
Stygiana in the region of the neck (Fig. 7). The side seal includes a neck and shoulder portion to a working. The resulting slack in storevault neck and shoulder priorivet, taking the iron from the shoulder cut in the side bulge of the chest.
Sutivana side openings (Fig. 7, g). The side strip is placed on the last armhole to working so that the center bulges on the chest in line with the center bulge of the pads, but the shoulder part located on the pad. The resulting slack in the armhole sativum.
Making bulges on the chest (Fig. 7, d, e). The side strip is removed from the pad and lay it on the Ironing table along its edge side to a working slice, the lateral part of the left arm lifted, bending at the center of the bulge on the chest, and in this position priorivet created a bulge. Then raise the side piece, bending it along the center bulge on his chest, and priorivet from the armhole side. After every meal is necessary to achieve complete removal of moisture.