Skirt 

the Skirt is the lower part of different types of women's clothing. The form of the skirt of the past centuries was very diverse. Characteristic was that they constituted the majority of dresses. Occasionally the bodice seemed tiny compared to the hyperbolic size of the skirts (see Fig. 80). Sometimes the skirts were so elaborate and complicated in its form that all the attention is focused on the design of skirts.

Will give some specific examples of the skirts of the last century and will examine their design basis. In Fig. 232,and shown to skirt the 60-ies, consisting of a horizontally directed ruffles, and supported by a metal frame (crinoline).

Later (1865) appears the skirt with heavily beveled blade (for seam) in the back having a profile silhouette of a triangle (Fig. 232,6). Skirt shown in Fig. 232,, characterized by the fact that its front panel is dramatically different from the rear. Front skirt is trimmed with flounces or draped fabric and the back is decorated with a huge bustle, usually of fabric of different color and a different texture.

In the early twentieth century skirts became much easier. In Fig. 232, g are the skirt, close-fitting shape in the front, with a large number of deep folds in the back, turning into a long train. The skirt was cut extension for the middle back seam. This suture was inserted slant wedges, which give the skirt great pomp back.

The latest period of the existence of long (to the floor) skirts (in everyday clothes 1910 - 1914) was typical of the General direction of fashion embellishment, the detailing, overload. The bottom of the skirt were decorated with welts, buttons, smocking (see, Fig. 93 and p. 149, Fig. 138, a). Modern skirts has been greatly simplified compared to the skirts of the past centuries. 

The skirt can be as a separate, independent product (Fig. 233,a) and a part of the dress (Fig. 233,b), suit 

(Fig. 233, in), coat (Fig. 233, g). If the skirt is part of the product, when the compositional development is necessary to remember its relation with the bodice.

The skirt is a garment with design of a belt line of the waist and hip. Often a reference line is the waist line. In products where the waist line is low and displaced to the hips, the reference line is the hip belt. This was a period of fashion 1925 - 1927 (Fig. 233, d). A tendency of displacement of the waist at the hips is also observed in modern silhouettes of clothing (Fig. 233, e). 

The shapes of modern skirts is very diverse, but all can be divided into five major groups: 

1) straight tight skirt, wrap skirt; 
2) the skirt is slightly enlarged in the form of a trapezoid, consisting of wedges;
3) skirt wide ruching; 
4) skirts in the fold; 
5) skirt casual flare (bell). 

This division does not exhaust all varieties of skirts. Any skirt, keeping mostly its shape can be changed and complemented by the internal, inverted pleat, a pleat at the seam lines, insert wedges, Flirty, wood stains or ruffles bottom, PA, etc. (see Fig. 67, 92, 102).

The degree of fit of the waist and hips depends on the shape of the skirt. So, in the narrow straight and narrowed down skirts fully revealed waist line and hips. If the skirt is wide, the waist is revealed, and the hips completely hidden. In the skirts of the wedges and skirts cut flare waist line is also identified, while the hips identified in part; here the line of the hips is a reference from her skirt falls down. 

Let us examine in detail skirts of different shapes, their characteristics and peculiarities. 

  Skirt one-piece narrow. This skirt has a straight silhouette. It reveals the waist and outlines the contours of the hips. The bottom of the skirt keeps the width of the femoral belt (Fig. 234). The shape of this skirt is built on a single seam at the back and Darts at the waist line. This skirt is a core classic that can build a number of other: skirts double seam, chetyrehosnuju, shestakovo, bell. 

Consider the process of creating shapes one-piece skirt (half model) headdress on a mannequin. 

Pre-taken measurements: circumference of waist and hips and the skirt length.

The dimensions of the rectangular piece of fabric, cut along the weft thread, determine the measurements of half the circumference of the hips (plus 2cm for loose fit, a weld shear and bending) and length of the skirt. The fabric is pinned through the middle of the front of the dummy warp threads (the first pin on the waist line, the second and the third on the hip line). With the same sequence of the cloth is pinned through the middle of the back of the dummy. Fixing the tissue, it is necessary to follow the right direction of the weft thread, which should be located horizontally at the hip line. On the weft thread pinned pins (Fig. 235, a).The excess tissue formed at the waist, clean tuck. Classic one-piece skirt make three tucks (front, side and rear). For conditionally proportional figure the value of the solution front tuck is the smallest, and the side is the biggest. The value of the solution tucks it depends on the difference in the girths of your hips and waist. Therefore, if the shape has a deviation from the relatively proportional, the solution tucks change. For example, when a narrow waist and wide hips tuck should be done deeper. If the waist is wide and the hips narrow, the tuck should be shallow.The length of the Darts also depends on the structure of the figure. If the waist narrow and hips broad, low-lying, tuck should be done long. With a low waist and wide, high hips tuck should be shorter.

To correctly determine the depth of the Darts on the fabric arranged so that the warp yarn had a strictly vertical direction over the entire length and located at right angles to the weft thread. 
After the solution of each of the recesses, the excess tissue fill inside and tuck secured with pins. 
As in the bodice, it is necessary to observe the correct direction of the Darts, uwazac them with the contour lines of a figure.

In Fig. 235,b, C shows examples of the incorrect location of the front Darts. In both cases the Darts are not consistent with the line of the thighs and, in addition, in the first case, tuck too close, and the second too far from the line of mid front. In Fig. 235, g tuck the right direction. 

Side tuck come through the side of the manikin with a small deviation in the direction of the backrest (1.5 - 2 cm). In Fig. 235, d, e shows examples of the wrong location of the weft thread and the side tuck, which entails distortion and vzdelavanie skirt. The correct location is shown in Fig. 235.

Stabbing Darts, the fabric pinned at the waist, and then check the length of the skirt front, side and rear. 

In one-piece skirt, the number of recesses may be increased to four (Fig. 236). The front tuck can be replaced with soft tucks, which are formed in the form of straight parallel folds, counter, or one folds. 

The layout of the skirt is removed from the dummy, the contours of the recesses lay the thread or make markings with a pencil. Next specify the layout in the plane (Fig. 237). 

  Narrow skirt with the smell. The silhouette of this skirt is straight. Clearly identify the waist and hips. The smell can be located in front or back (left side, Fig. 238, a). 

Skirt is pinned a whole. This should increase the width of the mock-up fabric to a 130 - 140 cm Fabric pinned to the front through the middle of the manikin, providing stock for the odor (Fig. 238, b). Tuck kill, as was shown for one-piece skirt, but around the layout. The free end of the fabric superimposed on the previously pinned to the mannequin. Front of the skirt, thus two layers of fabric (Fig. 238,).

A small piece of fabric, designed for front tuck, smell and allowance cut. If this is not done, the skirt will not lay (line smell is skewed, its inner end will SAG). 

  Double seam skirt - narrow, straight and slightly flared. In the first case (Fig. 239, a) clearly identifies the waist and hips, and the second (dotted line in Fig. 239,a) is fully revealed waist and hips, because the bottom of the skirt wider than the femoral belt. Double seam skirt has side seams and Darts at the waist.

For tattoos half layout take two pieces of the mock-up fabric, the length of which is equal to the length of the skirt and the width is 1/4 of the circumference of the hips plus allowance for the free fit and shearing the side seams and bevels. The fabric is pinned through the middle of the dummy's front and rear (for the warp). The weft should be placed horizontally. Kill the front and back tuck (as well as in the formation of the one-piece skirt). Side seam split off at the side line of the tuck, combining with her. The seam direction strictly vertical (Fig. 239,b). The dotted line shows a wrong direction of the seam.

In extended downward the silhouette in the side seam, make the brace, the value of which depends on the predetermined shape of the skirt (the latter can be done uniformly extended downward - dotted line in Fig. 239,and extended to the left or down more sharply - dotted line in Fig. 239, and on the right). 

  The skirt is double seam, tapered-leg. This skirt has the shape of a barrel (Fig. 240). Waist and hip revealed clearly. 

Make a skirt with side seams and Darts at the waist. Darts can be replaced with soft pintucks. 
Form narrowed skirt is created on the basis duhovnoi straight skirt by evenly narrowing to the bottom bevels of the side seam.

  Wide, straight skirt. This skirt waist line are revealed, the line of the hips is not stressed. The skirt usually has one or two stitches, depending on fabric width. The seam is not constructive, it only connects the fabric. If the seam one, it come back through the middle; if there are two seams are on the sides. 

The width of the cloth skirts at the waist and hem are the same. 

A straight and wide skirt can be build, pleats, soft tucks located at the waist line.

The tattoo is carried out on the mannequin according to the sketch or drawing from a fashion magazine. 

  Straight skirt with pleats. Folds can be located throughout the skirt evenly. The folds are different in form and execution: shallow and deep, hard and soft - press, one-sided, counter or box (Fig. 241,a). 

Thin soft tissue is impractical to do large folds, heavy and thick-overly small like pleated. 

The average width of a unilateral folds of 4-6 cm, the Width of the box pleat folds 6 - 8 cm

The shape and width of the folds can be identified on the mannequin. A piece of fabric pinned on the mannequin and lay in various forms folds. Pinhole three or four folds of different options, choose the most successful of them. 

The nature of the folds depends on their formation. With deep folds (single-sided or box) located throughout the skirt, do the calculation to measure the circumference of the hips. Width of fabric should be equal to those three standards, plus 5 - 6 cm free customized fit.

Seams is intended only for the connection of the fabric and should always be hidden in the inner fold of the pleat, otherwise the pleat will turn out. 

To do the entire layout as a whole should not be. Enough to make a calculation of the pleat at the hip line and a small template for the calculation (Fig. 241, b). The waist pleats are evenly narrowed. Tuck hiding in the folds and also to evenly distribute the waist line. 

  Skirts clinovia. The constructive basis of all wedges skirts is the wedge (Fig. 242). The shape of the skirt depends on the number of wedges and their width. Nitv the base fabric must strictly match the line of the middle of each wedge. The width of the wedge may be different. The ratio of the width of the wedge at the top to the width of its bottom can be 1 : 2; 1 : 2,5; 1 : 3. The bevels of the wedge should be the same on both sides and all wedges. 

Tuck combine with the seams (the exception is chetyrehchastnaya skirt, side cloth which Darts are stored). 

  Skirt four - and selisona (trapezium form), revealing the waist and widens toward the bottom. 
Form chetyrehstennoy and chesterules skirts create on the basis of the one-piece skirt. 

Line front and back Darts from waist line draw lines to the bottom of the skirt. Front and back wedges should be almost the same width (slightly wider than the front). 

The distance from the line mid-front to front tuck 8 cm (size 48). Therefore, the width of the entire front of the wedge at the top 16 cm Then at a ratio of 1 : 2 the width of the wedge at the bottom equal to 32 cm.

Further development of the four - and chesterules skirts are different. Chetyrehchastnaya skirt except for the front and rear wedges has two wide side of the blade. On the side the canvas size solution side tuck, it is recommended to divide into two Darts, having them both in one-piece skirt with four tucks. 

In chesterules skirt all six wedges are built on the lines of the three Darts. Wedges of unequal width. Darts / seams. 

As a four-and selisona skirts can be of medium width (Fig. 243,a) and strongly enhanced (Fig. 243,b). 

The greater the taper of a wedge at the bottom of the skirt wider.

Wedges (made of paper) pinned to a mannequin, after which give the skirt the desired shape. 

  Skirt mnogosolnca. Wedges this skirt is built, based on measurements of the girths of your hips and waist. Wedges regardless of their number (7, 8, 9 or 10) must be the same size. All tuck combine with the seams. Wedges split off (Fig. 244) and on the mannequin to check the shape of the skirt. In the figure the dotted line shows the normal ratio of the slopes of the wedges. 

  Skirts flared. The waist in this skirt is revealed; the line of the hips revealed only partially, her skirt widens to the bottom, forming the tails. The shape of these skirts are different, but all are characterized by the lack of Darts at the waist line and the presence of growing tails downward conical shape, the depth of which depends on the width of the bottom of the skirt. In addition, the characteristic is different in one fabric skirt thread direction. It is from the direction of the filaments depends on the location of the tails: where the fibers have an oblique direction, and will focus coattails. 

  The full skirt "the sun" (Fig. 245). The basis of this skirt is round. Unlike others it has no constructive seam. The shape of the skirt "the sun" can be created on the basis of the one-piece skirt. This base should be diluted according to the planned dotted lines to the position of the front and back at an angle of 90' (Fig. 246, a, b). According to the quarter of a circle creates the whole circle. Front and back fabric can be positioned as warp threads and the weft thread (note the direction of the figure). If the fabric is narrow, make the attachment to the warp threads.

Skirt "the sun" does not reveal the hip line due to the large number of tails. It is possible to achieve an even greater amount of tails, connecting the two "sun" together (Fig. 247, a, 6). For this layout should be cut along the warp threads. In the new form there will be two connecting seam. They can be placed in front and behind or on the sides. Waist the excess tissue formed in the form of a small uniform fine pintucks assemblies (Fig. 248) or pleated (Fig. 249). 

  The skirt is flared "bell". This skirt is in the plane of the semicircle (Fig. 250, a). Skirt cut with a single seam located behind the warp threads. Front fabric-cut weft thread. You need to check your ability to complete this skirt is made of fabric with print stripes, cell and diagonals and of printed fabrics as all the direction of the figure in a skirt is changing dramatically. In some drawings the transition of shared directions for the oblique, and then on the cross, and Vice versa, transverse to oblique and further equity attaches to the skirt of a slovenly, unkempt appearance (Fig. 250, b, C).So before you disclose, you should check, whether beautiful will be a shift pattern with equity in oblique and transverse direction.

The tails on the skirt "the bell" focused on the sides where the fabric filaments located in an oblique direction (Fig. 251). 

In addition, the skirt "the bell" can be done with evenly spaced folds or pleats that start from the hips, and ruched waist line. In the latter case, the seam can be positioned in front and under it to make the closure; cutout on the waist line make deeper and wider (respectively increasing length). 

  Skirt "1/4 sun" - the narrowest of skirts flared. Tails she is almost there (Fig. 252, a). The skirt has one seam on the back. Characteristically, on one side of the skirt along the seam line located warp yarn, while the other weft thread (Fig. 252, b). If the fabric is patterned, it is necessary to pre-test the ability to execute from this fabric this skirt. In Fig. 253,a, b shows the skirt "1/4 of the sun" from daniv stripes. The front bands are located in an oblique direction, and on the back of equity, the direction of the strips coincides with a cross, which is absolutely unacceptable.

The skirt flared all analyzed above forms have a common basic design and vary within this framework (build, pintucks, pleated, etc.). Cutting these skirts determines the location and depth of the tails and specific changes can not be. In all cases, along the lines of the seams of the fabric have a direct direction yarns (or weft). 

Very different skirts flare can be created by the crappy way. You can vary the width, location and depth of the folds, their number and location. They are more diverse and elegant. 

  Skirt bell bottom double seam. The seams on the front of the skirt and back. On-seam fabric located in an oblique direction. On the sides of the warp threads are the vertical direction. If the fabric is narrow on the sides, you can also do the seams. 

Parse provides us an example of the side seam.

Before you begin the tattoo on the mannequin, it is necessary to prepare the fabric. The length of the fabric should be equal to the length of the skirt plus 10 cm on the trimming of the corner. From the top left edge measure down 10 cm the resulting point mark. From the same angle of lay of the weft thread 25 cm (¼waist circumference plus 5 cm). The line connecting these two points must have the form shown in Fig. 254. Along this line the fabric corner cut off.

Further, the fabric pinned to the side of the dummy warp threads (the first pin on the waist line, then a second and a third on the hip line). The position of the warp threads is strictly vertical (Fig. 254,b). Then stab the fabric at the waist (from the side to the line of mid front), giving the layout some form. 

The skirt can be done plotopteridae, with barely visible tails (Fig. 255, a) and with a large number of folds, greatly flared (Fig. 255,b). 

The final form of skirt attached, specifying the width of the bottom and the location of the tissue along the line of mid front.

Once you have found the correct number of tails, finally make out the waist and Central seam, which will be located in the oblique direction of the threads (Fig. 256). In the future, the excess fabric through the middle of the cut. In conclusion, specify the length of the layout. 

The same principle is tattooed in the back of the skirt.

In Fig. 257 shows a plane layout of one quarter of the skirt after being tattooed. The dotted line denotes the layout of the skirt with a barely noticeable tails (see Fig. 255, a), and contour layout of a skirt with the highest number of tails (see Fig. 255, b). The nature waistline is also different. 

Next layout update and check on the plane.