In Fig. 391 presented tselnokrajnimi dress with short sleeve. Insert-yoke from shoulder seam to mill a wide topstitched seam (width 1 - 1.5 cm) silk threads. The neck is round, slightly elongated in front, with bed collar Alcoi. Lateral wedges mill, as medium-sized, slightly down Breakfast is luxurious.
Dress can be made of light fabric in all qualities and colors.
Construction drawing dress patterns dresses
Drawing the pattern of this dress is slightly different its design lines from a basic drawing (Fig. 392).
Back of the dress. On the back of the main drawing of the pattern to put the following lines: the shoulder line - from point P1 through point C1 to draw a straight line, which is to defer the shoulder length plus 1 cm for a landing (in this example: 14 + 1 = 15 cm) and mark point P. From point P to hold the auxiliary line G1 to the point where you wait 20 cm (sleeve length) and mark point A1. Then the shoulder line from the point P1 to the right to defer 5 cm (for all sizes) and supply point P2. From this point to hold down the cut into 0.5 cm to Build the shoulder line and sleeves as shown in Fig. 392.
Undercut sleeve. Line С2В1 split in half and put a point G2, which drop down vertically to the intersection with the bottom line and mark the point N2. From the point G2 delay down to 3 cm and place the point of C3, which is connected to point C2 will receive the undercut of the sleeve. Points P1 and C3 to connect the direct - get the bottom line of the sleeve.
Flirty backless. From point A down to postpone 15 cm and mark the point K. From point P1 down the line of the shoulder to defer 9 cm and put an end K1. From point To to hold the right line in the 11 cm mark the point K2, which connect straight to the point K1 - get the insert-yoke.
Average wedges mill. To build medium wedges mill from H-point hem to defer to the right 15 cm (4 cm - rassasyvanie of the wedge, the width of which at the top is 11 cm, in this example: 11 + 4 = 15 cm). Mark the point H3 and connect it with the point K2. Then from the point H2 to the left to defer 17 cm and place the point of H4. Connecting point N4 with the point K2. Two wedges here come one after the other, and therefore their shading. Extend side of the mill at 4 cm From point D2 to the right to defer 4 cm, to put the point H5 and connect it with the point C3. The average wedge of the mill to expand to 12 cm and to define the extension as a dotted line.
The neck of the dress. From a point P1 on the shoulder to postpone 2 cm and mark point P2. From point A down to postpone 2 cm and mark point P3. Points P2 and P3 to connect with a smooth curve - get the neck back.
Front of dress. In terms of the basic drawing of the pattern to apply the following changes (Fig. 393).
From point B2 to the point P to hold the auxiliary line on which to defer the measure of the shoulder width is 14 cm and place the point P1.
Auxiliary line to construct the sleeves: the line width of the back - cut GS1 split in half and put in the middle of the point G3, which is left to postpone 2 cm and mark point A2. Points P1 and P2 connecting line, on which from the point P1 to defer the sleeve length, 20 cm and mark the point P4.
Undercut sleeve. Divide the length of С2В1 in half and mark the point G2. From point G2 to drop down vertically. At the intersection with the bottom line НН1 to put the point H2.
From the point G2 delay down to 3 cm and mark the point C3, which is connected to point B1 - get the undercut sleeve front. Points P4 and C3 connect a straight line - get the bottom sleeve dress.
The yoke insert. From point B down to postpone 19 cm, to put the point K. From a point B2 at the top of the shoulder to defer 9 cm and put an end K1. From the left point To put the 12 cm and place the point of K2. Points K1 and K2 connect line.
Average wedges mill. Bottom line from the point N1 to the left to defer 16 cm, mark the point H3 and connect it direct with a point of K2 - get an expanding wedge on the bottom at 4 cm Must be expanded by 4 cm and the second wedge cut, which from the point D2 to the right to delay 19 and to put a point H4. Connecting point N4 from point K2 in a straight line. Cut Н4Н3 shade - wedges come in one after the other.
From the point H2 to the left side mill front to expand to 4 cm and place the point of H5. Wedge mill to expand to 12 cm (shown by the dotted line in Fig. 393).
According to the feature it is necessary to increase the neck of the shoulder, which from the point B2 on the shoulder to postpone 2 cm, mark point B3. From point B down to postpone 15 cm and mark the point B4. Connect the dots B3 and B4 smooth arc, as shown in the figure. Get the neckline of the front.
Gusset. The width of the gusset is equal to the length of the two undercuts at the line С2С3 (Fig. 392) and С3В1 (Fig. 393), in this example: 7 + 7 = 14 cm, and height equal to the length of one podraza - 7 see
Drawing the pattern the Gore with Dan digital symbols (Fig. 394).
Collar. From the point P1 (Fig. 395) down to snooze on the shoulder of 2 cm from the point And put 2 cm endpoint to connect with a smooth curve line. The width of the collar 4 cm to defer from the points of 2 cm and 2 cm and connect as shown in the drawing. From a point B1 at the shoulder line to postpone 2 cm from point B down to 15 cm and connect them with a smooth curve. From a point 2 cm to postpone on the shoulder 4 cm and connected to point 15 cm, then the collar should be cut out and in the shoulder seams to connect the two halves. Cut one piece, attaching the center line to the bend of the fabric.
Cutting and tailoring dress
Put the pattern pieces on the fabric. Obscurity, to allow for seams and cut out, outline the centers of parts (the neck hole should be cut less than the cut - better to enlarge it by fitting), the neck on the edge to prometti strong thread (so the neck is not stretched).
Collect wedges mill on two lines. To connect with simple yoke seam. Baste and sew the shoulder yoke. Tuck (up to 2 cm) outside the yoke (when cutting line К1К2 on the back shelf and leave the seam 2 - 2.5 cm. If the quantity of the fabric not the seam allowance, to sew the yoke on these points strip transverse or oblique tissue). To prometti. Sleeve dress baste and sew the shoulder seam from the neck to the cuffs. The side seams of the dress is also baste and stitch from podraza down. Then wmeat and sew the gusset in the undercut.To sew the gusset in the corners have a seam no wider than 0.5 cm, otherwise the undercuts are formed in the Assembly. Neaten the edges of the gusset and podraza loopy seam. Connect the sides of the dress with the yoke and wedge, chipping them in the center at the shoulder seams. Baste, to stitch the yoke seam is wide (1 to 1.5 cm), and wedges are simple.
Baste the collar lining and stitch. Chopping centres of the neck and collar. To ultimate together with the lining from the centre to the front - first one way, then another. Hem oblique stripe fabric.
The sleeves are also oblique to sew a strip of fabric hidden seam 1.5 cm wide Hem to hem at the hands of a hidden seam.
When the fitting should pay attention to the direction of the shoulder seams. The seam should be right on the shoulder. If the sleeve at the bottom to do already, hem gussets, need to put inside 1 - 2 cm and connect them with a dotted line, as shown in Fig. 394.