In Fig. 356 presents winter dress dyed fabric - wool, flannel, crepe-satin, etc.
Dress is trimmed with welts of crepe-satin on the shiny side or from fabric to match the fabric of the dress.
In the center of the yoke of the front is a small mysyk, Flirty backless dresses - straight. Wedges center front and back, slightly flared and pleated around the suture lines and side seams back and front cinches. Dress can be executed without side seams - in this case, detailed by the width of the fabric overlap pattern of the lateral part of the back and front and cut together.
The side sections of the mill dresses are usually not raskladyvaetsya, but if you need to make the dress wider at the bottom, you can rascaeti them for 5 - 7 cm, and have both sides (back, and shelf) raskazivat the same.
Sleeve, long, extended downwards, on the cuff. Collar - shaped, one-piece.
Construction drawing dress patterns dresses
To build a basic drawing of the pattern of the dress according to the standards (of any size).
Note. Basic drawing built PA 48 size all styles of dresses are calculated for this size. If the drawing of the pattern will be for a different size only change the measurements. All additional calculations undertaken in the construction of the basic drawing of the dress and sleeves in a size 48, will remain constant for all sizes.
When creating drawings of patterns you can change the calculations of the dress details for example, the yoke to make them longer or shorter, narrower or wider than the wedges, add the fabric to the Assembly more or less. You can also change at will the length and width of sleeves.
Flirty backless (Fig. 357). On the plan drawing pattern backless dress according to the style, you have to build a yoke for something from point A down delay of 16 cm and put the point K. Then from the point C also down delay of 16 cm and put an end K1. Points K and K1 to connect direct.
Wedge backless. From point To line yoke to defer 10 cm and put an end K2. Bottom line from the point N to the right to defer 17 cm and place the point of H3. Point K2 and D3 to connect direct. Then from the points K2 and D3 to the right to defer at the 5 cm mark a point K3 and H4 and connect them with a dotted line - this will be the seam allowance on the fold. (In the future, all the allowances for pleats, assemblies, etc. will be noted with a dotted line).
Yoke front. From point E down to postpone 16 cm and put an end K4, from the point G1 delay down to 3 cm, to put the point K5. The point K4 and K5 to connect direct.
Wedge front. From the point K5 on the cut yoke to postpone 11 cm and put an end to K6; bottom line from the point N1 to the left to defer 18 cm, to put the point H5. Connecting point N5 with the point K6 direct - get a wedge front.
From points H5 K6 and left to lay 5 cm to mark the locations C7 and N6 and connect them with a dotted line - get stock on the crease.
The lateral back portion and the front. From point N the right to postpone 2 cm (Fig. 358), and put a point N3, which is connected to point of K2 - get oblique cut the side of the dress. From the points K2 and N3 to the left to snooze for 7 cm and connect them with a dotted line, as shown in Fig. 358,- get an increase of tissue at the Assembly.
From the point H1 to the left to defer 5 cm, to put the point H4, then connect it with the point K3 in a straight line - it will cut the sides of the front. To postpone for direct ВГ1 from point K3 - 9 cm, to mark the point K5 - get a raise at the Assembly. From the point H4 to the right to defer 9 cm and place the point of H5, then connecting the dotted points K4, K5 and N5.
The collar (drawing the pattern collar is given on the main drawing). From point B1 to defer to the left on the shoulder line of 4 cm, then from point 4 cm up to defer one third of the neck circumference is 6 cm From a point B1 through a point 6 cm draw a line equal to one-third of the neck circumference plus 2 cm (2 cm is added in case the collar will be shorter than the neckline of the back of Rostock) in this example: 6 + 2 = 8 cm.
From a point 8 cm at a right angle to it to postpone the collar width of 6 cm (you can take optional). Then from a point B2 down to postpone 14 cm From the point B2 to the right to postpone 6 cm, which is split in half (3 cm) and put in the middle point B3. Then from point B to the right to postpone 1 see Connect the dots 6 cm, 1 cm, 3 cm and 14 cm, as shown in Fig. 358.
Sleeve. The drawing pattern sleeve dresses need to build a drawing pattern of the main sleeve, shortening it to the width of the cuff that is 3 cm (shown in dashed lines, Fig. 359), and extend the bottom by 4 cm on each side.
Cuff. Width of cuff in this example, 6 cm, length - 24 cm
Cutting and tailoring dress
On the twice folded tissue to arrange the details of the dresses so that they were all located in the length of the fabric (along the edge) taking into account the seam. Seam sides and wedges - 1.5 - 2 cm, sleeve - 1 - 1,5 cm, from shoulder - 2 cm, armhole, neckline, collar and top part of the sleeve 1, see yoke, if it we used a wide seam allowance is given to 2 cm, and if the narrow seam or inseam - 1 cm; on will dresses at the top of the stock 1 - 1.5 cm, bottom - 5 - 7 see Stan at the top is cut in the shape of a straight line even in the case if Flirty curly and cleans only after the final fitting.This is done in order to avoid errors in the calculation of the upper part of the mill.
The seam allowance on the sleeves at the bottom - if it is on cuff - 2 - 3 cm, and for cuff is 1 cm.
The yoke should be on the lining, it is better than lies and more durable. Lining the backrest can be made from a different fabric to match the background of the dress and the lining of the yoke of the front fabric of the dress, especially the dress with the cuffs.
When cutting the front yoke of the front section of the neck to do up to the point of G1, then the line БГ1 to hem a piece of fabric, then cut the collar in style, (when the collar is folded the seam will not be noticeable). The lining should be cut is cut before the end of the yoke, otherwise it will not turn the tops of a collar.
Put the pattern on the fabric, carefully check the direction of the pattern, then the pattern outline with the chalk strictly on the edge and secondary on the seam. After cutting to outline the centers of parts dress - coquette, mill, wedges, sleeves, and shapes of the parts of the dress the pattern.
Apply and pristroit borders of the wedges and connect them with the side parts of the mill. To lay at the seams of the wedges of soft folds with a width of 5 cm, to collect on two lines of the side of the mill with a distance between them of 0.5 cm of Thread to pull across the width of the yoke and connect the mill with a yoke, strictly making sure to match the centers of the parts. The yoke of the front pre-processing are as follows: zastrochit the lapels of the collar, remove them to keep the corners smooth. The mill also gather in two lines and connect with the yoke. Sew the shoulders of the dress and sew the back collar.
If the mill is done without a seam on the side, then connect it to the yoke when the yoke is fully stitched. Sew sleeves, sew the cuff to make the fit on the crown, gather it into two threads (as Stan) and metati small (0.5 cm) stitches.
Bakey need to cut fabric on the bias and slant of the strip better fall on the dress. To sew: attach the face to the dress, to stitch the edge to turn away, bend the cut inside by 0.5 cm and stitch along the edge of the silk threads to match the welts. On the collar bakey better to do pokrainini. In the sewing process is done several fittings, during which the drawbacks encountered when sewing, for example, if the sides of the dress will SAG, they need to clean it up - drew level with the back and front of the dress. (The elimination of deficiencies discovered during the fitting, already mentioned in previous chapters). The bottom of the dress to hem a hidden seam.