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Home » Articles » Sew yourself

Shift bodice with long sleeves and a gusset (size 48)

To build the drawing pattern (Fig. 6 a) must be removed following measurements (in cm): 

1. Semicircle neck - 18 
2. The semicircle of the breast - 48 
3. The semicircle under bust - 41 
4. Semicircle waist - 36 
5. Back length to waist - 38 
6. Shoulder width - 13 
7. Back width - 19 
8. Sleeve length - 58 
9. Sleeve length to elbow - ZZ 
10. The semicircle of the wrist - 9.

Construction drawing patterns 

Draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 6 b). 

 The depth of the openings. From point A down put 22 cm (1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 6 cm for all sizes) and put a point G. AG = 48 : 3 + 6 = 22 cm 

From the point G to the right will have a horizontal line of arbitrary length. The depth of the openings 54 sized and above should not exceed 24 cm 

 back Length to waist and waist line. From point A down put 38 cm (measure length of back to waist) and put the point T. From the point T to the right will have a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 Back width. From the point G to the right put 19 cm (1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm for all sizes) and put a point G1. ГГ1 = 48 : 3 + 3 = 19 cm 

From the point G1 will restore perpendicular to the intersection with the upper horizontal line and the point P. 

 the Width of the openings. From the point G1 to the right put 12 cm (1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the breast) and the point G2. Г1Г2 = 48 : 4 = 12 cm. 

The width of the openings 56 and above is 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast minus 1 cm. 

From point G2 to restore perpendicular to the intersection with the upper line and the point of intersection denoted by P1. 

 The width of the bodice at the chest. From the point G to the right aside 52 cm (measurement of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm for all sizes) and put a point G3. ГГ3 = 48 + 4 = 52 see 

Through the point G3 will have a vertical line of arbitrary length up and down. The point of intersection with the waist line denote point T1. 

 Line sides. Distance Г1Г2 divide in half, and the breaking point denoted by G4. From the point G4 drop a perpendicular to the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T2.
 


The construction of the back 

 Neck. From point A the right postpone 6.5 cm (1/3 measurements of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm for all sizes) (Fig. 6 b). 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 

From the point of 6.5 up put 2 cm and from point 2 up 0.5 see Point 0.5 cm and joined by concave line. 

 The slope of the shoulder. From the point P down put 2 see 

 Auxiliary shoulder line. From point 2 (neck) through the point 2 (the slope shoulder) draw a line of arbitrary length. The line from point 2 (neck) set aside 14.5 cm (measurement the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm for all sizes). A new point will be denoted by P2. 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.

The shoulder line 2П2 split in half and the point of division connected with point of 0.5. From a point P2 on the auxiliary line postpone 58 cm (measurement length sleeves). 

 The upper line cap sleeves. Neck from a point 0,5 extendable up to 1.5 cm and from point P2 put up 2 see Points 1.5 and 2 connected. From the point P2 through point 58 will hold the line of the semicircle (radius) at which point 58 down set aside of 30 cm and put the H-point. Point N and point 2 (shoulder line) connected with a dotted line. On this line put 33 cm (measurement length sleeves to the elbow) and put a point of L. the Dashed line from point 2 (shoulder) to the point L, divide into three equal parts. From the points of division at right angles to the dotted line, put on 1,5 - 2 see

The shoulder line and the top line cap sleeves carry through the points is 1.5 (neck), 2 (shoulder line), 2, 2 to point N. 

 Side seam. From the point T2 to the left put 1 see Points 1 and G4 connected. 

 Undercut sleeve. From the point G1 to the right put 2 cm from the point G4 down the line of a lateral seam - 5, see Points 2 and 5 connected. 

 Bottom line, cap sleeves. From point N down put 15 cm (measurement of the semicircle of the wrist plus 6 cm for all sizes) and put the point H1. НН1 = 9 + 6 = 15 cm.

Point 5 (undercut) and N1 connected with a dotted line. From point L at right angles to the dotted line draw the line to the intersection with the second dotted line. The point of intersection will be denoted by L1. From the point L1 to extend the elbow line at 1.5 cm Distance Л1Н1 divide in half and put a point L2. From the point H1 to the right set aside of 1.5 cm and the point H2. The bottom line sleeves draw through the point 5, 1,5, L2 and H2. 

 Tuck the bottom of the sleeve. Elbow line LL1 divide in half and put a point L3. Bottom sleeve НН2 divide in half and from the point of division of left and right set aside by 1.5 cm These points connected to point L3.

 Tuck on the waist line. Distance ГГ1 divide in half, and the breaking point denoted by the point G5. From this point down will hold a vertical dotted line. The point of intersection with the waist line will be denoted by T3. From the point T3 to the left and right set aside 1 cm and from point G5 down - 5 see Point 1, 5 and 1 connected. 

 The middle of the back. From the point T to the right put 1 see Points A and 1 connect. 

The construction of the front 

The drawing of the transmission reproduce the same lines and distances as the construction of the backrest (Fig. 6). 

 The height of the shelves. From the point G3 set aside up to 25 cm (1/2 of the measurements of the semicircle chest plus 1 cm for all sizes) and put an end Г3Ш sh = 48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm 

 Neck. From the point W to the left will set aside 6.5 cm and put an end SH1 (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm for all sizes). ШШ1 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 

Point W down put 7.5 cm (1/3 semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) and put a point ø2. ШШ2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.

Points SH1 and R2 connected with a dotted line, which divide in half. From the dividing point to the left at a right angle to the dotted line put 2 see Point SH1, 2 and ø2 connecting concave line. 

 The width of the shoulder and chest tuck. From a point SH1 to the left put 5 cm and the point P2. Distance from neck to chest tuck for a 48-th size and above - 5 cm, 44 - 46 size - 4 cm 

From point P2 down the dotted line to the intersection with the line of the chest ГГ3. From the point of intersection of the right postpone 1 cm and put an end V.

Points In P2 and connect. A vertical line PG1 divide into four equal parts and the upper point of division being joined by the dashed line from point P2. From a point P2 on the dotted line put 7 cm (difference between the measure of the semicircle of the breast and the size of the semicircle under the breast). Put the point B1. П2В1 = 48 - 41 = 7 cm.

Points In a and B1 connected. Side tuck should be equal and so the distance BB1 put on the line П2В and the point B2. Point B2 is connected to the point of SH1. From the point B1 to the left on the dotted line put 8 cm (the difference of the measurements of the width of the shoulder) and the point P3. В1П3 = 13 - 5 = 8 cm. 

From the point of PZ down at right angles to the dotted line put 3 cm From a point B1 through a point 3 hold the auxiliary line of an arbitrary length. 

 The cutting line is. From SH1, A2 and B1 down put at 1.5 cm From the last point of 1.5 (B1) to the left put 8 cm and the point P4. The line of the cut carried out in point 1.5 K point P4. 

 The upper line cap sleeves. From point P4 down auxiliary line postpone 58 cm (measure length sleeves). From the point 58 through the point P4 hold the line of the semicircle, which set aside 11 cm and the point N. Point N is connected to the point P4 by a dotted line. From point P4 along the dotted line put 33 cm (measurement length sleeves to the elbow) and put a point L. Segment ЛП4 divide into four equal parts. From the points put up by 2 cm Upper line cap sleeves carry through the points P4, 2, 2, 2 to point N. 

 Side seam. From the point T2 to the right set aside 1 cm and the point 1 is joined with the point G4. 

 Line podraza. From a point G2 to the left put 2 cm from the point G4 down the line of a lateral seam - 5 see These points (2 and 5) connected. 

 Bottom line, cap sleeves. From point N down put 12 cm (the measure of the semicircle of the wrist, plus 3 cm for all sizes) and put the point H1. НН1 = 9 + 3 = 12 see 

Point H1 and 5 (undercut) connected with a dotted line. From point L, hold perpendicular to the dotted line D1 5. The point of intersection will be denoted by L1. The distance L1 5 divide in half, and from the dividing point put down 1 cm From the point H1 to the left put 1.5 cm of the Bottom line of a sleeve carried out through the point 5, 1, L1 to the point of 1.5.

 The waist line. From point T1 down set aside 1 cm Point 1 paired with point 1 (side seam). 

 Front tuck on the waist line. From the point In down the dotted line to the intersection with the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T3. From this point the left and right set aside 1 cm, and from a point down - 5 see Point 1, 5 and 1 connected. 

 Vitacca side on the waist line. From a point G2 to the right set aside 3 cm and the resulting point will be denoted by G5. From this point down the dotted line to the intersection with the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T4. From this point the left and right set aside 1 cm and from point G5 down - 5 see Points 1, 5, 1 connect. 

 The construction of the gussets. Spend a horizontal line of length 8 cm (1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the bust minus 4 cm for all sizes) and end points will be denoted by L and L1. LL1 = 48 : 4 - 4 = 8 cm.

The line LL1 divide in half and through the point of division up and down hold a vertical line of arbitrary length. Down from the points of division set aside 16 cm and the point L2. Point L, L2 and L1 connected. From point L and L1, dividing the angle in half, set aside for 6 cm (length of undercut) and the points L, 6 and L1 connect.



Category: Sew yourself | Added by: 12.10.2017
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