Processing of the INSULATING STRIP AND CONNECTING IT WITH the SLEEVES
the Strip of the batting to produce the upper halves of the sleeves of two layers (deviating from the bottom on the 6 - 12 cm). The upper and lower halves of the sleeves are interconnected at the elbow and the front sections on sanding the car with a knife.
Elbow seams to the strip sew on sanding the car to the elbow joints of the sleeves on lot length 8 - 10 cm and Then the strip turned, putting on the sleeve. The lower insulation strip sewn to the strip on a bottom of sleeves on a blindstitch machine. Turn the sleeve on the front side, smoothing the top sections of the insulation strip, and primetyvajut it parallel to the upper sections of the sleeve at a distance of 10 - 12 cm.
The gasket can be processed together with the lining. In this case, after connection of layers of the insulation strip to its bottom slice pritachivajut the adhesive strip, with its adhesive coating up. On insulated strip lining applied, perepuska its bottom by 2.5 - 3.0 cm over the cut insulation pads, and connect their sanding line at a distance of 4 - 5 cm slices lining.
The lower part of the elbow sections insulated strip sew together with the lining section length of 10 - 12 cm, and further - unlined. Elbow joints grind lining up in the segment with a length of 12 - 15 cm.
CONNECTION SLEEVES WITH ARMHOLES
Beautiful appearance of the product depends largely on the proper installation of sleeves with the armholes of the product. The correct position of the sleeve relative to the product achieved by combining the control nasechek on the sleeve and the armhole when matiwane or directly when setting sleeves in the armhole. Umatyvaet sleeve in the armhole manual stitch length of 1.0 - 2.0 cm. Width seam ultimania 1.0 cm. the size of the landing sleeve depends on the design of the sleeves and fabric type. Sleeve without folds and Assembly the value of planting depending on the type and properties of the fabric may be different.Following are the norms for planting of the crown of the sleeve on a 1.0 cm length of the armhole for various tissues (according to construction methods TSNIISHP).
| Fabric |
The rate of planting, cm |
| Wool suiting with an attachment of synthetic fibres over 30% |
0,02 |
| Same with the attachment of synthetic fibers of 15 to 30% |
0,04 |
| Wool blend worsted suiting and coat fabrics, silk suiting, cotton clothing |
0,06 |
| Wool suiting cloth, fine pure wool coats and cotton clothing |
0,08 |
| Woolen overcoat, grybauskiene Drapes and Drapes of fine wool blend |
0,10 |
| Drapes soft pure wool fine |
0,125 |
The total value of the landings under these rules is equal to 1 - 7.5 cm
Fit in products with vtachnoy sleeves is as follows (the proportion of the total landings):
at the front of the sleeve (on the plot to align with the armhole from shoulder seam to side tuck) - 0,3 - 0,35;
at the rear of the sleeve (on the plot to align with the armhole from shoulder seam to elbow seam) - 0,35 - 0,40;
at the bottom of the sleeve - 0,2 - 0,25.
In other parts of the armhole of the sleeve with minor umatyvaet uniform fit.
The correct matiwane of the sleeves and placement of the plantings to check on the mannequin. Fit sleeveless sativum until its complete removal in a special block with an iron or with a special press.
Stachivaya sleeves from the sleeves along with side seam strip with a width of 1.0 cm. With side shelves from the shoulder seam down the shelf when the production puts a strip of cloth from the upper material, the jackets of linen. The line starts from the elbow seam in the right sleeve down, left - up. The ends of sutures fixed double reverse stitching.
Sleeve stachivaya without prior matiwane on a special machine PMZ class 202. After vrachevanie fit sleeveless sativum on a special press. If the setting sleeve was Brittany strips of fabric, iron them in the direction of the shelves.
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