PROCESSING the TOP edge of the SKIRT
the Upper edge of the skirt is treated with a grosgrain braid, fold-over (finishing) belt, banded belt and other parts.
Processing grosgrain braid. This type of treatment is used in most cases. First, in accordance with the size of the skirt cut the braid fold it in half lengthwise, moisturize and priorivet. On the tape the patterns mark the locations of Darts, pleats, side and other joints. Harvested thus the braid is applied to the upper edge of the skirt from the wrong side at a width of 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the braid (Fig. 68, a). Line marking on the tape combine. with the respective pleats, seams, etc Nastraivanie braid starting from the bottom end of the clasp, releasing the braid to 2.5 cm beyond the edge of the clasp and finish the notch at the top of the clasp, releasing the end of the braid at 1 cm for nadechka.When nastraivanie in the seam put the two hangers, placing them at a distance of 2 - 2.5 cm from the side seams to the side front skirt. The end of the braid the top of the clasp to buckle inside on 1 cm and sew it to the 2 hooks hand or machine.
Braid bend line sabturce, placed under the ends of the hooks and hand sew hidden stitches with a length of 0.2 cm Upper edge of the tapes scribbled on the skirt at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge (Fig. 68, b), overlapping the first line and zastraivaya cross stitching the other end of the braid, which bends 1 cm
After the processing of the top edge of the skirt sew the hooks, loops, buttons, buttons.
The location of the hooks on the upper side of the clasp is marked on the curve (Fig. 68, in). The hooks are inserted into pierced through the bent edge of a fastener hole between the seam allowance and zipper strip and sew 8 - 10 stitches behind the ears and near the bend of hooks (Fig. 68, g).
The location of the loops marked in accordance with attached hooks. The edge of the braid with loops attached to the side edge of the lower fastener 5 - 6 manual of concealed stitches. On the bottom side clasps make the thread loop length of 0.5 - 0.6 cm
Processing turn-down waistband. First treated zone. Fold it in half inside out and grind the ends of the seam width 0.7 cm Allowances of seams, in corners cut off, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm, the angles of the belt turn and straighten (Fig. 69, a).
Belt priorivet and pritachivajut to the upper sections of the skirt; at the same time pritachivajut overlapping zone equity strip of lining fabric (Fig. 69, b), releasing it at the ends to 1 cm.
After protecive belt are bent upward, and a strip of lining fabric on the wrong side of the skirt, turning it on three sides: at the ends of 1 cm, along the waist of 0.7 cm and Then scribbled it at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edges (Fig. 69).
Seam protecive belt priorivet from the inside out. The belt is folded on the front side of the skirt and priorivet, forming the edging of belt width 0.3 - 0.4 cm Lower edge of the waistband to the skirt sew 5 - 6 stitches every 10 - 12 cm in length. At the end of the belt in the middle sew one hook at a distance of 1.5 cm from the top of the Cape (Fig. 69, g).
Processing of a stitched belt. The halter straps come from the wrong side of the skirt, aligning the seam of the belt and skirt and releasing the ends of the belt over the edge of the zipper at 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 70, a). It pritachivajut seam width 0.7 cm, bend in half and grind the ends with the lines at the level of the edges of the clasp (Fig. 70, b). The excess tissue to cut corners, turn belt on the front side (Fig. 70, in). The edges of the belt to buckle inside by 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge. At the same time scribbled tips and the top edge of the belt (Fig. 70, g).
TREATMENT OF THE LOWER EDGE OF THE SKIRT
The skirt length and shape of the lower edge of precise mold (obmalloc). For this skirt folded in half, face inwards so that the top edge of the Darts, the seams are accurately aligned. Both sides of the skirt carefully spread on the bottom edge of the skirt is applied to the mold at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm slices and omelet cut edge of the skirt and the line of podseleniya region. The bottom of the skirt is cut with scissors or oznacovani machine. Line podseleniya region is transferred to the other half of that skirt too, the pattern, aligning its bottom edge with the cut edge of the skirt.
Treatment of the lower edge of the skirt depends on the type and properties of the fabric (thick, thin) and skirt style (straight, flared).
Cut the bottom of the skirts of thick woolen fabrics legkopolirujushchiesja edging strip of lining fabric or overcast on a special machine. Cut the bottom of the skirts of fine wool fabric that bends in 0,7 - 1,0 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.
Processed or unprocessed cut of the bottom of the skirt to buckle towards the inside and sew on a special machine for line marking.
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