PROCESSING FEATURES outerwear, FAUX FUR AND OTHER MATERIALS 

brief description of the properties of various materials, as well as the basic requirements for sewing articles made of them is given in Chapter VI, section 1. 

This Chapter outlines the features of the processing and Assembly of the individual components of clothing. 

PROCESSING of PRODUCTS made OF ARTIFICIAL FUR ON a KNITTED BASIS 

of the Initial machining of parts consists of marking, paving edges and handle recesses. 

 Markup produce chalk from the inside out: outline the breaklines side edges, bending the bottom. 

 Edge paving all cut edges of the parts. The Darts and sleeve edge are laid only on one side.

 Tuck sew on furrier machine, finishing the seam at 1 cm below the incision (Fig. 82, a). 

 Processing of side edges. The side strip of calico, calico or nonwoven, are designed mainly to strengthen proshivki of buttons and loops, namachivajut or sew without namachivanija to the shelves on the blindstitch machine (Fig. 82, b). By the line of bend of the side lay the adhesive edge.

The marking on the side edge side of the pile right shelves scribbled loops of cord. Edging the ends of the loop secured three lines, the second end - one line. Depending on the model, the clasp can be internal. 

Side edges (in the products podborta) zametyvayut at a distance of 1 cm from the fold, and then sew to the shelves on the inner side at a distance of 2 cm from the slices on the blindstitch machine. In products without podborov this operation is performed after protecive lining. 

 Treatment of the lower edge. In products with unfastened lining the bottom edge of the grind stripe lining fabric seam width of 1 cm Hem bends in the line and attach the blindstitch machine. The strip of padkazki laid on the underside of the fur, the top edge bends 1 cm and attach to the base of the fur on the blindstitch machine. 

 Processing collar. Lined with calico, calico or nonwoven fabric attached to the lower collar on the blindstitch machine is three longitudinal or transverse lines (at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from one another, Fig. 82,). Grind the collar, and furrier machine fit on the curves. Then turn the collar and spawn with the formation of the edge of the collar. 

 Treatment of sleeves. Darts on the crown and sections of the sleeves connect to the furrier's machine. Gasket in bottom of sleeves (from calico, calico, nonwoven fabric) attached to the blindstitch machine. The bottom edge of the sleeves zametyvayut. Lining sleeves connect at the same time with pritachivajut the entire lining. Insulating spacer sleeves pritachivajut to the seams of the sleeves on a sanding machine. 

 Treatment lining, insulating strip and connecting them with the product. The lining of sleeves connect with insulated lining batting for all the slices on a sanding machine with a knife (Fig. 82, g). The seams of the lining sleeves to grind, and then the lining pritachivajut to the lower edges of the sleeves. 


Treatment lining of fur has no singularities. After treatment the lining combined with a warming pad of wadding in the side seams, the side sections and the neck on sanding the car with a knife. After connection of the shoulder sections stachivaya the lining of the sleeves.


Lining primetyvajut to the side sections, and collar hand, and then pritachivajut on sanding machine, seam width of 1 cm. Further processing is the same as described in the article "Connecting the lining with the product".


In Fig. 83 are diagrams of the Assembly of a product in the form of a breakdown by: a - A - treatment side edge, b - B - treatment of the bottom of the product, In the processing of the collar and connecting it with the product.