The vest is integral part men's suit "Troika". The vests are made of different styles: single-breasted and double-breasted, with lapels and without lapels, with two or four pockets, decorated with leaves or valves. The sides and bottom of the vest trim stitching, uspeshnymi stitches or treated in a clean edge.


In Fig. 71 depicts a single-breasted vests of different styles. On the shelves of the vest has Darts and Welt pockets with leaflets at the back - center seam and Darts. Waist back pull tabs, fastened with a metal buckle sewn to the left end of the strap. The details of the vest shown in Fig. 72, a and b.



PROCESSING SHELVES 

Processing shelves of the vest consists of treating the tucks, pockets, wet-heat processing of the shelves, processing, lining and coupling it with shelves. 

 Treatment tucks. Tuck in vests doing a split or uncut. 

 Continuous Darts are marked on the patterns, and then grind by placing strips of cotton fabric. Tuck rautureau, satwiwa slack fabric at the ends. 

 Split tuck above grind off the ends of the incisions at 1 - 1.5 cm, gradually expanding seams to the waist line to 0.7 cm, from waist line to bottom tuck grind, reducing gradually the seams if tuck is located down from the waist line. Seams tucks rautureau, satwiwa slack fabric in the ends of the Darts. 

 Pocketing. On the shelves of the vest is treated with upper and lower pockets with leaves. The lower pockets are slightly larger than the top. The processing sequence of pockets is the same as the top pocket with the leaflets in his jacket. 

 Features pocketing with leaves in the vest next: the top edge of the leaf grind burlap unlined; pockets are treated without a valance; the ends of the leaf scribbled on the front side two parallel lines, positioning them at a distance of 0.1 and 0.5 cm from the edge. Assembly scheme of the pocket is given in Fig. 73. 

 Wet-heat processing. Wet-heat treatment of the shelves of the vest performs on presses with special pillows or hand-iron at a universal block. Shelves folded face inward, equating slices, and lay on the pad so that you sucurity slack fabric cut neck and armholes. Depending on the design sometimes produce a sling at the shoulder and bottom sections. 

When hand ironed for receiving and fixing the same in the area of breast forms processing lead first from the left, then the right shelves. 

 The connection of the shelves with the side strips. As a side strip for shelves vest use dyed calico. The size and shape of side spacers may be different. The connection of the shelves with the side strips is performed on a special machine or by hand stitches with a length of 3 cm one line, positioning it at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from side edges. The side sections of shelves and spacers combined. 

 Omelka and refinement of the size and shape of shelves. After primitivne side strips shelves impose on one another with wrong side inside, combining pockets, tuck, and auxiliary patterns omelet and cut the neck, side and bottom shelves, leaving on the right the shelf ledge width 1.5 cm sew-on buttons. 

 Treatment lining the shelves. Treatment lining is in the handling of one or two pockets and attach to the lining of obcutek of podborov. 

Processing the inner pocket often produce the left side as described here (see Fig. 39, b).

After machining of the pocket pritachivajut to the shelves of the piping of the fabric top stitch with a width of 0.7 - 1.0 cm When participarii lining shelves lay in folds to the ground. Then to the shelves, and the bottom of obtachku, pritachivajut podborta seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm. the lining pokazyvaut evenly across the entire width. The seam allowance from podborta netscout on line primaqiune piping to the shelf. Iron the seams towards the lining and the lower parts rautureau. 

 The connection of the shelves with lining. The shelf grind on the collar, side sections, bottom and arm openings without namachivanija lining or with its preliminary namachivayam. 

When namatanai lining laid on the shelf, overlapping podborta side cut shelves. Podbot namachivajut on a special machine: the neck - without landing on the ship's edge, Posiva 0.1 cm between each pair of loops in the lower corners - 0.2 cm Piping namachivajut without landing and tension. Lining straightened, then primetyvajut sections of the openings (Fig. 73, b).

After namachivanija shelves will be turned on a sanding machine with a knife on the neck, side sections and the bottom of the vest from the shelves; at the same time under the line of flax enclose the edge, grasping its edge by 0.1 cm Edge must not reach the shoulder and side sections of the shelves of 5.0 - 6.0, see 

the arm Openings of the vest, grind from the side lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm seams of the arm openings of the shelves in places where they will pull the region, make an incision, not reaching the lines of 0.1 - 0.2 see

Then remove the thread namachivanija of podborov, obrazek bottom and primitivne lining at the armholes. Shelves turn out on the front side, the corners of the sides and bottom of the spawn in a special vehicle from podborov and obrazek. When the inflorescence emerge straighten edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the shelves of the vest. The sides and bottom of the vest priorivet. The neck, side and bottom shelves of the vest trim uspeshnymi stitches or stitching. The armhole shelves scribbled from the lining at 0.2 cm from the edge, forming the edge of the shelves with a width of 0.1 cm 

TREATMENT BACK 

 Treatment tabs. Strips of fabric for the strap bends at the ends, and then on the side of cut, bent edges are superposed upon each other and scribbled in the middle of the strap, at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edges. On the left end of the strap put a metal buckle, buckle 2.0 cm and zastrugivajut three lines at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. 

 Treatment of the back. The upper and lower part of the back to grind at medium-sized sections with a seam width 1.0 cm. Allowances of seams iron: on the top right to bottom left. On each side of the back grind tuck and iron them in different directions.

To the lower part of the back at neckline pritachivajut the gasket to the top - tabs. 

Backless fold with the lining inside out and grind on the bottom and the armholes, a seam width 1.0 cm (Fig. 73,). 

The CONNECTION of the SHELVES WITH the BACK

of the Shelves put between the back and lining of the back, aligning the front of the shelves from the front side of the back. Side and shoulder seams of the vest, sew the seam width 1.0 cm. seams of the armholes of the back in places where they can pull the edge netscout, not reaching the lines of 0.1 - 0.2, see Bottom of the back seams in the protruding corners cut, and in the inner corner - notch.

The back with shelves and turned to the front side through the neck back and straightened. Arm openings and hem backless vest spawn, straightening, edge width 0.1 cm from the back of the basic lining fabric. Edging edge of the neck of the back bends inward by 1.0 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the edge, forming the edge of the main lining fabric backrest.

On the back of a vest stack the tabs, determining their mean, and scribbled on the form of triangles, the vertex of which is turned to the side seams, and the base - line mid strap. At the base of the triangles tabs scribbled two lines (Fig. 73, g). 

FINISHING VEST

The left side of the vest outline the location of the loops that are overcast on a special machine. Remove the basting stitches and the ends of the thread. The sides and bottom of the vest iron on the bench press and the back and shelves - iron from the inside out. Details in areas of education Las stripped. Outline the location of buttons which are sewn on a special machine with side seal.