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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 14.3 Treatment of the sides and clasps


  Machining casting fasteners straps. For processing fasteners bonding straps (Fig. 55, a) on the front side of the front scheduled line: a mid-front - slit, a transverse line, determining the size of the clasp, and two auxiliary lines left and right from the middle, is scheduled for a distance equal to twice the width of the strap (Fig. 55,b).
In mass production, in order to avoid excessive thickness the excess tissue under the bar (on main part) are cut, leaving allowances to 1 cm at the seams primaqiune and 1 - 1.5 cm at the bottom for fasteningthe zipper (Fig. 55 in). Fold strap along the middle of the front inside, equating slices, and grind the top ends in according to the model fully or up to the notch defining the middle. The seams, in corners cut, turn the slats on the front side, straighten, priorivet and set the lines defining the width of the slats inthe finished form (Fig. 55,g). To the underside of the main part of the fastener end of enclose dolevik of cotton fabric. In products moving tissue dolevik primetyvajut pritachivajut or so to lines of primaqiune for further processing fell into the seam.
Strap alternately applied to the front side of the main part (Fig. 55,d), equating bends with the agreed guidelines (under way the layout that is shown in Fig. 55,b), and pritachivajut on the planned line on strap or (in the method of layout that is shown in Fig. 55,) pritachivajut, equating sections of the strap with the edges of the cut. Joint width 1 cm
The correct primaqiune straps check from the inside. The stitching needs to be parallel and end at the same level, and the distance between lines must equal the width of the strap. The first the method of marking the hole for the fastener is cut from the inside of the main the details in between the lines, not reaching the ends of lines 1.5 cm incision performed inclined towards the ends of the lines and not brought to the ends of the lines by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and in the second method markup netscout seams in the corners from the underside of the main part.
The raw side of the bar and the ends turn inside out, right the bar put on the left, straighten the seams of primaqiune straps. Then the main part bent at the end of the zipper, pull the ends bars, the corner at the end of the cut, straightened and secured the clasp at the the base angle double reverse stitching (Fig. 55, e). 
Seams primaqiune straps and lower ends of the overcast on a special machine. The clasp ready priorivet.
In products with flaps, straps should be cut simultaneously with the podborany. With the goal of economical use of fabric straps can be single cut and processed by podborany. 

  Machining casting fasteners straps and obrazcami-podborany. For processing fasteners casting straps and obrazcami-podborany (Fig. 56, a) take the two straps (Fig. 56, b) and two podborta, which is at the same time and the bonding straps (Fig. 56,).
The strap can be cut with podborta (Fig. 56,d). In this case, the bar bend along the crease line, fold in half, right sides inside and grind the ledge - upper end of the bar from the bend to the notch, defining the middle of the strap.
If the upper limit cut apart from podborta, first treated the inner edge of podborta by the above mentioned means (see Fig. 54), then the bar applied face on the front side of podborta, call upper cuts and outer edges and grind the ledge and the outer edge of the strap. The width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 see the Seam in the corner-trimmed. Bar twist on the front side, the seam and corners and straighten priorivet. On the bar schedule line primaqiune, simultaneously determining the width of the strap. With the inside primary part of the fastener end of primetyvajut or pritachivajutdolevik. Processed the strap applied on the front side of the main details strap down, equalizing exterior trims with the planned auxiliary lines (with the markup of the clasp shown in Fig. 56,b), or equating sections of the strap with the edges of the cut (in the way markup fasteners, shown in Fig. 56,C), pritachivajut side strap without podborta. Allowed primaqiune strap with podborta. Cutting the holes for fasteners and the end treatment performed as wellas in the processing of casting clasps straps without podborov.
Seams primaqiune strap iron and bent in the direction of the main part and rare cases rautureau. The inner edge of podborov attached to the front in a few places with hidden stitches. The clasp ready to priorivet (Fig. 56, d).

  Processing of the clasp with loops in wwe stitched strap. To handle the clasp with loops in the seam stitched strap (Fig. 57, a) need the following parts: shelf, placket and padbolt (Fig. 5?,b). On the shelf, bracket and podborta nasecki cause the lines defining the space the location of the hinges. The inner section of podborta bend to the side the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut narrow seam on bodybu a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues of the internal section of pre-podborta overcast. The bar put on the front right side shelf front side down, stack the slices and pritachivajut on the part of the strap, making the blanks lines at the locations of the loops and securing the opposite machine stitch at the beginning and at the end of the loop (Fig. 57). Joint width 0,7 - 1 see On the front of the plate impose podbot face down and pritachivajut, equating cuts, making in-the-blank lines in places the location of the loops and tie in the same way as when participarii straps to the shelf. After primaqiune strap and podborta check the symmetry gaps in the stitches, i.e. the length of the loops. Seams primaqiune strap to the shelf and podborta to the bar in the products of wool and silk fabricsrautureau, and the products of cotton cloths laid out on two sides. Then podbot bent on the front side of the shelf and the bar bend along the middle of the strap inside out, combining seams, and grind the ledge of the fold to the seam primaqiune strap. Joint width 0,5 - 0,7 cm. Sections of the seam in the corner cut, turn the Board on the front side seam and straighten priorivet. Podbot and a shelf folded in the plate and the outer cut shelves fasten to a cut podbortamachine stitch around the seam of primaqiune strap to the shelf and to podborta. Then padbolt on the shelf straighten and left on for loops sections of the bent edge with the inner part strap sutured manually hidden stitches. The clasp ready priorivet. Internal the edge of podborta attached to the shelf in a few places manually hidden stitches.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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