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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 19.1 Connection of the bodice to the skirt and processing of the product line

Before connecting the bodice to the skirt the skirt must be processed tuck, reliefs, folds, pockets, and connected by a cloth skirt. 
Treatment tucks, folds, reliefs set out in Chapter 1, § 4, 5, and pocketing, in § 10 - 12. Of the skirt connect bridging, lapped tongue or patch seam depending on the model. The connection is performed by nadechka and applied during the fitting lines with advanced smachivanie or without smachivaniya; flatlock or nastraivanie panels or parts of the skirt is performed, starting from the top of the slice. Joint width, 1,2 -1.5 cm
For products made of cotton, linen and synthetic tissues when performing this operation on the machine with simultaneous the eyelet cutoff of allowed width of the seam is 0.7 - 0.8 cm 
In the manufacture of clothing for individual orders, joint width can be increased to 3 cm Side seams in the products of wool, silk and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau or iron depending on the model, and in the articles of cotton and linen tissues folded in the direction of the front.
The joints connect the parts of the panels skirts are bent or iron according to the model. The bodice needs to be treated tuck, reliefs, folds, puffed, processed, and connected coquette, fasteners, connected side and shoulder seams, processed and connected to the neck collar. Sleeves can be vacany or not vacanydepending on the adopted sequence of processing. 
The bodice to the skirt can be connected by bridging or patch seam. 

  The connection of the bodice to the skirt bridging the seam. If the bodice and skirt dresses ruched waist, a dress skirt turn inside out, the bodice on the front side, put the bodice to the skirt, folding front sides, aligning side seams, Darts and marks on the bodice and on the skirt, and sew from the side of the bodice using legs with guide wire or guide line. With the aim protection seam from stretching under the line of connection of the bodice to the skirt enclose edges of core material, the positioning sections of the edge the direction of the cut of the skirt (Fig. 80, a).
Allowed to connect the bodice to the skirt without stitching the edges. In this case, the grinding is performed on needle machine-needle or on two lines with a distance between 0,1 - 0,Z cm, joint Width 1 - 1,5 cm At the top individual orders are produced with advanced grinding smachivanie. The width of the seam from the bodice and can be increased to 4 cm, and children's products - up to 5 cm Slices seam overcast on a special machine.
In the presence of assemblies on the waist line of the bodice and skirt (Fig. 80 b) the upper edge of the skirt and bottom of bodice to form the Assembly (education assemblies, see Chapter 1, § 6). From the inside of the skirt around the top (if Assembly all over the skirt) or only at the locations of the Assemblyscribbled edge of the base material, aligning the cut edges with cut skirt. Line of primaqiune edges must pass through the lower line education Assembly. Turn the bodice on the front side and skirt inside out. Put the bodice inside the skirt, fold detail frontsides inside, and smatyvay manual stitches, aligning the side seams and marks on the bodice and on the skirt and evenly distributing the Assembly. Flatlock perform from the side of the bodice. Seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 cm In stock builds only on the skirt (Fig. 80,) skiving is performed by a skirt. In the manufacture of products for individual orders with the width of the seam the sides of the bodice can be increased to 4 cm (in children's products - up to 5 cm). The slices seam overcast on a special machine.

  The connection of the bodice to the skirt seam with piping. The ends of the strips for the edging and sew. Joint width 0,7 cm Seam products woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau, and the products of cotton cloths laid out or bent towards the front. Stripe for the edging and bend along the middle and folded wrong side inside, slices call. Harvested Kant put on the front of the bodice or skirt sections in the direction of the cut basic parts and pritachivajut, laying a line from the bend strips on a distance equal to the width of the edging (Fig. 81,a). In the same waypritachivajut ruffles, frills, lace etc. a Skirt turned inside out, the bodice on the front side. Put the bodice to the skirt, aligning the side seams,tuck and marks, smatyvay it with a skirt and sew detail with Kant, paving the stitching in the seam of primaqiune Kant, ruffles or shuttlecock (Fig. 81, b).
  The connection of the bodice to the skirt overlay and seam. In the presence of assemblies on the skirt form a first Assembly by hand, on needle or single-needle lock stitch machine. The cut of the bodice is folded in the direction the inside on the planned line or of a value equal to the width of the finishing lines plus 1.2 - 1.5 cm, zametyvayut and priorivet. The processed edge the bodice is applied to the skirt, pinned the pins or namachivajut, and then scribbled, evenly distributing the build at a distance provided by the model, using the foot with the guide (Fig. 81,).
In the presence of Kant on the part of any component first pritachivajut strip for Kant (see above), then the seam primaqiune Kant folded in side of the main part and iron. Detail with pricechannel edging applied to different part according to marked lines or ndsatcom. Nastraivanie carry out detail with piping in the seam primaqiune Kant or in the main part at a distance prescribed by the model.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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