§ 2. Parts cut

All parts cut dress suit divided into two parts: details of the jacket (blouse) and skirt. The number of partsthe cut is not constant and varies depending on the model. So, for example, if the top part of the dress-suit - blouse, before may to be whole, to consist of two or three parts. If the upper part jacket before always consists of two parts, i.e. shelves, and each the shelf in turn may be solid or may consist of two parts - the front and side. The backrest can be one-piece or consist of two or three parts (cutting side).
Sleeves can be set-in, Raglan cut, single cut and combined cut. Sleeves vtachnye and casual Raglan sleeves can be one-piece, double seam, the outer and inner seams. The upper part of the double seam of the sleeve may consist of two parts: the front and elbow. Sleeves combined fitting consist of two parts and can be from the shelves casting, and back cap, Raglan, and Vice versa. 

Parts cut dress-suit shown in Fig. 90. Details and constructive line of detail in a dress-suit have the same names, and in a dress.

§ 3. The processing sequence dress-suit

Processing of the dress-suit can be divided into two stages: processing of a jacket, blouse, vest and skirt treatment. 
  Processing of a jacket, blouse, vest. Treatment tucks, cuts, stitches, reliefs, folds, pockets, collars,collar, sleeves, coupling sleeves and the machining of the bottom of the arm openings in jacket dress costume perform in the same way as in the processing of the same parts and assemblies in dresses and blouses (see Chapter 1). 
  Treatment skirt. The technological processing sequence of the skirt depends on design of the product. As a model it is possible to take such sequence: 

a) check the details of the cut and namely tucks, pleats, Princess seams zippers, nasechek, etc.;
b) cut; 
C) processing tucks, pleats, Princess seams, connection of panels of the skirt; 
g) processing the closure skirt;
d) treatment of NCDs; 
e) processing the top of the cut; 
g) finishing of the skirt.

But in each case, the process sequence is defined specifically depending on the number of parts and the shape of the product. For example, the closure skirt may be machined to the grinding side slices or after grinding, depending on the type of fastener. The zipper handle after connection of the panels of the skirt, the zipper in the allowances of seams to join sections. The bottom of the skirts, usually handle after connection of the parts of the skirt, and the skirts pleated, pleated first, grind off or ripple the cloth of the skirt, except for the slices of one seam,which work the clasp, then treated with NCD. After processing the bottom slices raw seam equalize and grind from the top the notch to the bottom seam at the bottom of the skirt to buckle inside under an angle of 45' to the bottom line and zastrugivajut double stitching.
Treatment the skirt of the process sequence referred to in paragraphs a, b, C, is the same as when working the skirt of the dress.

§ 4. О6работка zipper in the side seam or seam connection of panels of the skirt 

, the Closure skirt may be processed in the side seam or in the crease of the zipper, margins, or sometimes obrazkami. 
The processing of top of skirt zipper outlined in Chapter 1, §14. 
For processing fasteners, and hook and loop cloth skirt with cut out allowances the seam to the processing of the clasp. Top side zipper treated in this manner.
Cut seam allowance of the upper side buckles in the articles of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues overcast on a special machine, and then bend towards the inside of 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge.

In products of dense tissue to prevent the bent edge the inner cut of the seam allowance is recommended to turn over (Fig. 91,a). For edging take a strip of thin silk. Striped fold along the middle underside inside sections called stripes applied on the front side of the seam allowance, equating sections, and grind. Joint width Of 0.3 - 0.5 cm Pricechannel band round the suture, forming piping. Kant fasten the front side of the seam allowance stitching in the seam of primaqiune stripes. In products from tissues, stretch easily, bendclasp pave edge, or dolevik of cotton fabric. Dolevik or edge placed on the underside of the allowance for processing fasteners, aligning the edge with the fold line of the closure, and pritachivajut on a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.
In skirts, in which the upper edge treated with grosgrain tape, the seam allowance folded to the front side at edge of the fastener, ie the continuation of the line of the side seam and grind the top corner of the ledge of the fold to the notch defining end of primaqiune grosgrain ribbon (Fig. 91, b). Joint width 1 cm Seam cut, turn the seam allowance on the front side, the angle and straighten priorivet.
In the absence of an allowance on top of the clasp cut in the fastening area of the handle facing the base material. The inner edge of the piping seam is treated with bodybu open cut edging or seam, i.e. the same as the inner cut of the seam allowance.
The facing applied to the front side of the main part and pritachivajut. The width of the seam at 0.7 cm While processing the top edge of the skirt grosgrain braid at the same time and grind the top edge of the buckle to the notch, defining the end of primaqiune braid, it is necessary first slip stitch in side piping of 0.2 cm (for education Kant), and then then oblachat the ledge. Joint width 1 cm Then turn obtachku onunderside of the skirt straighten the top corner of the main details in the direction piping release edge with a width of 0.2 cm and priorivet.
Lower side zipper is treated with a facing of base material or silk lining fabric. The facing applied to the front side allowance face down and grind the slices. Joint width 0.5 cm 
The facing folded to the inside main part, stitch and straighten priorivet, releasing Kant in the direction of the piping with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 91,b), if the cut allowance of the upper side of the clasp processed seam bodybu.
If the cut allowance of the upper side of the clasp processed bound seam, facing the bottom side of the clasps round the seam of her primaqiune, forming the edge (Fig. 91,g). The inner section of piping bends inward and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent region. Products from heavy fabrics allowed internal the edge of the piping to zastrochit up to connect it with the main item.
When the connection of panels of the skirt produce and attaching the end clasps two transverse lines. The inner edge of obcutek attach every 3 - 5 cm of concealed stitches, and the bottom edge of the overcast at a special machine or by hand. The clasp ready priorivet. 
Processing other types of fasteners described in Chapter 1.