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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 4. Technical documentation for the manufacture of garments

The main documents for the manufacture of products in mass production are state all-Union standards (GOST) approved USSR state Committee on standards, national technical specifications (the MOUTH) and technical specifications (TU). Technical conditions develop specific models and claim higher organizations. They are mandatory for all enterprises producing this product. 
Distinguish between the standards group and for certain types of products.
Specifications are developed by the organization modelling (Houses models or laboratories), and thenheading the enterprise, complete with patterns. 
When manufacture light clothing according to individual orders should be guided by the PCT of the RSFSR (the Republican standards of the RSFSR) 578 - 77 "Clothing women's and children's. Custom the orders". 
In the manufacture of light clothing for ladies and girls in mass production should be guided by the OST 17-167 - 79 "Clothes women's and children's. General technical requirements".
But the above documents may not reflect all requirements directly with the model, and therefore the main document for model fabrication at the company are technical descriptions developed on the model. 
The technical description consists of the following sections: 

1) a sketch of the model; 
2) a description of the decoration of the model; 
3) the features of production patterns and products for this sample (not provided by "Foundations of technology unit-by-unit processing"); 
4) specification of materials and fittings; 
5) specification of parts;
6) establishing the complexity of processing the samples of the models; 
7) assessment of quality of model points;
8) dimension table of products and patterns; 
9) map of the flow of materials on the sample model;
10) circuit layout patterns of the parts of the model; 
11) specification onorevoli and utility patterns; 
12) a list of the guidance. 

  Requirements to quality of production. Depending on the model of the goods at the waist and shoulder seam pave edge, the product is no edge seams double grind stitching. Padding in the collar, sides, flaps, pockets, collar and the belt provides a technical description of the model. In the products of fabrics with stripes or a cage is required to comply with the following conditions: the symmetry of the longitudinal strips, the lapels, the ends of the departure of the collar, cuffs; the symmetry of the location of the picture in paired details (pockets, the valves, leaflets) in the products of tissue with a symmetrical pattern;match pattern of pockets, flaps, straps and leaf pattern fabric on the front, with the exception of products where the discrepancy between the figure provides a technical description of the model.
In the products of fabrics with a large pronounced pattern (including striped fabric or cell) is required to comply with fit the picture in the middle (front or rear) the seams of the bodice and skirts and at the seams of the supers in primaqiune skirts flared. Bottom of products from wool and silk fabrics, obtachkuthe neck, bottom of sleeves hem with hidden stitches. In the products of cotton and linen fabrics when suturing the hem and sleeves podborov, piping of the neck and suturing in the piping of the neck and the bottom of sleeves in children's products made from fabrics and staple the bottom of the productsthese tissues especially for toddlers and preschool age allowed the through line.
Fastened with buttons in the products of sew through stitches to podborta and shelves and cross-stitches with by putting pieces of the same fabric. 
In the finished product the following is allowed:
-lower collar in the products of wool, silk and other materials - from two parts with the location of the seam in the middle back, in the products of cotton fabric - three pieces with the location of the seams on a minimum distance of 5 cm from the ends of the collar, in the products of wool, silk and other fabrics, longer than 50 cm in the seam vrachevanie the collar in three parts with the arrangement of seams at a distance of not less than 5 cm from the ends of the collar; 
the collar that goes into a bow or one-piece with podborany - two piece with the location of the seam in the middle back;
collar for products made of cotton material with a length more than 50 cm along the seam vrachevanie - two piece with the location of the seam in the middle back; 
-podborta in jackets, blouses, shirts, dresses two piece dresses with clasp to the bottom, dresses, coats, bathrobes for adults and adolescents three parts in children's products - two pieces with the seam in location the transverse direction. Length of superstructures shall not be less than 6 cm, the distance of the sutures to the loops - at least 2 cm In articles made of transparent tissue extension in the right podborta not allowed;
-buttoned belt is in two parts with the location of the seam on the side seam products tie - in three parts with the location of the seams on the side seams products. Seam stitching should be placed at a distance of not less than 20 cm from the ends of the belt. For products made of cotton, linen, and prints and multi-colored silk fabrics, seams, grinding parts belt can be located anywhere; 
-a stitched belt skirt and pants in two parts. Seam stitching should be the same with the side seam or placed under the loops;
-facing neck - two piece with the location of the seams at the shoulder seams; 
-the facing of the armhole of two parts; 
-rulik, bake and slant the piping of the neck-two piece, products with a large neck - in three parts; 
-flounce, Ruche - two-three parts depending on the location of their product and the width of the fabric; 
in the pants at the top of the stepper sections of the rear halves of the extension length on the seamprimaqiune not more than 20 cm, in products for children 12 cm the short-length inseam, wide seam no more than 8 cm, products for children - not more than 5 cm.

  Additional requirements to the quality of manufacturing products of the highest quality. The highest quality products are women's dresses made from natural silk fabrics and above 0519 0521 groups and woollen fabrics above 22 group, as well as all models for special cases, models with skirts pleated and ripple, with fur trimmings, and embroidered with glass beads and tinsel regardless of the type of fabric. In these products the edge of podborov, bottom, side, shoulder seams and seams of the armholes in dresses-suits and dresses-coat special silk edging lace or silk fabric in according to the model or overcast on a special machine silk thread.
To the female dresses, the dresses, the suits, dresses, coats attach podminky, made of plain or coarse calico fabric. To women's dresses made of opaque tissues from the back along the lines of neck, shoulder seams and seams of the armholes attach the lining yoke with a length of 20-25 cm in the midline of the back from seam of collar vrachevanie or the highest point in the middle of the back to the bottom of the lining. 
Quality assurance finished products must be made by the methods specified in GOST 4103 - 82 "sewing. Quality control methods".
In section "Labelling, storage and packaging of finished products" to specify the rules labeling, storing and packaging finished products in accordance with requirements GOST 16581 - 68 "sewing. Labeling, packaging".
The finished product should be sewn brand enterprises made ribbon artificial silk, half-silk or cotton. 
In the products of light fabrics tape should be bright tones. On the tape should be woven or printed the image of the trademark, name and location of the manufacturer.
To products produced with the use of adhesive materials and all products made of fabrics with chemical fibers must be accompanied by a guide to the care of the product or tape with symbols - symbols ways care products in washing, Ironing and bleaching with chlorine, chemical cleaning required to preserve the appearance and lengthen its life.
Conditions washing, Ironing, chemical cleaning methods and the possibility of bleaching by chlorine denoted by the symbols listed below. 
Allowed to apply the symbol without the letters Cl.
All garments subject to sale, attach marking the label, which is the passport of the product. On the labelprovided: name of Ministry, Department or higher the organization, whose subordinate is the company that manufactures this product; company name and address; name of product; model (standard) size, length of the product; price list; name tissue; price of 1 class; the price of finish; grade, discount; discounted price; price finish; release date of the product.

Symbols for the designation of the terms of Laundry, Ironing, dry cleaning and bleaching with chlorine, and their explanation

When washing is not required caution. The product can be boiled 

In the wash with caution. The product can be washed at a temperature no more than 60 seconds 

When washing special care is required. The product can be washed at temperature not exceeding 30'C 

, the Product can not be washed, 

When Ironing is not required caution. The product can be ironed at temperatures above 160'C 

When Ironing with caution. The product can be ironed at temperatures up to 160'C

When Ironing extra care is required. The product can be ironed at a temperature not exceeding 120 C 

, the Product can not be ironed 

dry-cleaning is not required caution. The product can be cleaned with all common solvents 

At dry clean with caution. Product handling needs be made with the use of tetrachloroethylene or heavy gasoline (white spirit) 

With the dry cleaning requires special caution. Treatment products should only be carried out with the use of heavy gasoline (white spirit) 

Product should not be exposed to chemical cleaning

The product can be bleached with the use of funds, splits chlorine 

the Product must not be bleached with the use of funds, splits the chlorine



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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