Fig. 27. Model womens blouses with bowknot single 

  Processing single belt and bow. Sections a single belt and bow can be processed in various ways depending on the model (Fig. 27). 
Slicers belt and bow tucked into a special machine switch for bending and zatrachivaniya slice on the edge (the fold). The excess tissue around lines are cut. 
Sections of the bow are treated on a special machine for the formation of the openwork at a distance of 0.7 cm from the slices, then bars openwork cut in the middle.
Sections of the belt can be processed on sanding machine stitch bodybu with a shut cut with a switch or double stitching. 
In the absence of the switch region of the belt or bow bend towards the inside 0.3 - 0.5 cm and scribble from bent edge at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. The excess tissue near the line of cut, the edge bends again towards the inside and zastrugivajut second line.
Sections of the belt or bow handle also edging strip, single or double folded, edging seam with two closed sections. The treated belt or bow priorivet, knotted, or put a bow depending on the model and fixed in two or three places, making six or eight stitches in each backstitching.
  Proderzhaly and straps. Progenital fold along the middle face inward, equating sections, and grind the end and the equity side. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the corners cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.1 - 0.3 see Proderzhaly turn on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet, positioning the seam at the fold or forming edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm towards the bottom.
Straps bend along the middle face inward, equating slices, and grind only on the equity side, if upon further processing the ends of the straps included in the seams. If further treatment in the seam is only one end of the straps, then grind one end of the straps and the equity side. If the straps are fastened to the product buttons, they are treated with three sides, and if they consist of two parts (top and bottom), grind four sides, leaving an equity the edge of the hole length of 2 - 3cm to turn. If the ends of the strapshave a complex configuration, before grinding them in obmeleet auxiliary patterns. The lower part of the straps should be less the top 0.1 - 0.2 cm on all four sides. Grind strictly by the chalk lines the width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 see the Seams in the corners cut, leaving about 0.1 - 0.3 cm, and in concave areas netscout. Straps turn on the front side, straighten seams, priorivet, forming edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm in the direction of the bottom part. Aperture sutured manually.
For products made of cotton fabrics straps treated with suture itagiba with a shut cut, having a place strictly in the middle part. 
  Processing valve or leaves without laying. The valve can be constructed from two parts (valve and lining valve) or be solid.
If the valve consists of two parts, the upper part of the valve - cut out wider lining valve 0.2 - 0.3 cm along the side and bottom sides. The valve lining is folded, right sides inside, equating slices. In the manufacture according to individual orders smatyvay planting valve on corners and curves and grind from the side of the lining so to machine stitching not caught in the stitching smachivaniya. Joint width grinding 0,5 - 0,7 see

Thread smachivaniya is removed, the seam in the corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm (Fig. 28,a). Turn the valve on the front side, the edges are straightened with the help of jigs, spawn, and mass production of edge straighten without the buttonhole at the same time with priduzivanja. The inflorescence emerge from perform side lining of the valve, forming the rim of the valve with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 28, b). If any model is on the edge of the valve face hand lay finishing line using the ruler guide or legs with a Director, then plan a line defining the thicknessvalve. In mass production grinding edges valve performed by the lining, without the prior smachivaniya.
In products processed from tissues containing synthetic fibers, stitch the buttonhole after Ironing and removing threads leave marks that are sometimes difficult to remove. Therefore, it is allowed the edges of the flaps to lay silk threads or not to lay, and immediately to prithwijit, forming and consolidating Kant during wet-heat processing. If the valve is cut along with the lining, it bend twice, call ends, the upper and lower sections and grind with two sides, then turn on the front side, straighten edges and priorivet, positioning seams grinding on the bend.
If the valve the model provides obecnie loop, they are treated on the upper side of the valve to grinding sections (processing oblachnykh loops see. 1, § 13). 
Sewn loops performed on a special machine. The leaf is treated similarly to a valve. The inner edge finishing valve leaflets or overcast on a special machine. On the valve and the leaf after the treatment plan from the inside the line defining them width in finished form. This line will be and support for primaqiune valve or the leaflets to the primary.
  Handling the valve or the leaflets with the gasket. For greater stability and better preserve the shape of valve products light clothing is often made with a lining that can be cut from fabric with one-side adhesive coated, of cotton fabric such as calico or calico, as well as from non-woven materials proklamelin (Fig. 28). 
The strip of fabric one-way an adhesive coating applied to the inside lining of the valve and glued iron or press, stacking multiple parts.
If strip of calico, calico or proklamelin, valve pack lining, right sides inside. The gasket applied to the underside valve and grind from the lining of the valve.
In the products of tissues, which are difficult for wet-heat processing (wool and silk fabrics containing synthetic fibres), gasket applied to the underside of the valve or the leaves and smatyvay in the distance0.5 - 0.7 cm slices, propositiva valve or leaf in the corners. After this valve (with a gasket) folded with the lining of the valve and leaflets with lining the leaves, right sides inside and grind from the side strip through the foot with a guide ruler. Joint width 0.5 cm The seams, in corners cut, the strip of seam carving, valve or leafturn on the front side and produce further processing of the same like valve or leaves without laying (Fig. 28, g).
  Processing valve with frill. First treated with frill (see Chapter 1, § 7). Prepared frill applied to the front side of the front storonoi up, equalizing sections, and pritachivajut on the frill on the sanding machine, padding line between two lines or the second line forming assemblies. In this case the Assembly is distributed evenly throughout the length of the part, except the corners of the valve, where the number of assemblies should be a few more than at the other sites. In the individual production frill not pritachivajut, but only primetyvajut a running stitch length 0.3 - 0.5 cm, fixing fit ruffles on the corners.
The lining valve pricechannel or tacked on ruffle fold with flap, right sides inside, equating sections, and grind from the lining of the valve exactly line primaqiune or primitivne ruffles. In sales individual orders lining pre-smatyvay valve a small fit of the valve on the corners. Thread smachivaniya after grindingremoved. The seams are trimmed. Turn the valve on the front side and produce further processed in the same way as a conventional valve (Fig. 28, d). 
  Processing of the valve and the bake. The valve piping may have a rectangular shape and can be with rounded edges. 
Bake for valve rectangular cut out in three parts for the form of the outer edge of the valve. Part bakey clarify and outline the seam lines connections to these lines were held strictly at 45'. After this part bakey sew along the planned lines, finishing line a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the inner edge of the borders. The seam is trimmed, leaving a width of 0.5 - 0.7 see
In the products of wool and silk fabrics seams rautureau, and of cotton are laid on two side. Bake can be connected with valve bridging or patch seam. Valve already cut out the lining of the valve the width of the borders. When connecting bakey valve bridging suture (Fig. 28, e) bake fold with valve right sides inside and pritachivajut, equating sections. The width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 cm.
When connecting borders with flap patch seam (Fig. 28,g) the inner edge bakey bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and iron. On the valve schedule line felling borders. Bake applied to the front side of the valve face up to bent edge of borders coincided with the planned line on the valve, and scribbled at a distance of 0.1, see the individual production of bake pre-namachivajut.
After primaqiune or felling bakey valve fold with valve lining, right sides inside, equating sections, and grind. When custom order details pre-smatyvay. The width of the seam grinding 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam at the corners cut, turn the valve on the front side and produce further processed in the same way as a conventional valve.
If you bake on a valve only at the outer edge lining valve is recommended to be cut out of the fabric finishing and wider valve size bakey (Fig. 28,h). Lined spend melovogo line or make the notch on the sides that define the line of inflection. Valve fold lining, right sides inside, stack the slices and grind off only the valve length. A seam spread or rautureau.
Depending on the models lining valve can be connected with valve patch seam (Fig. 28). After felling the lining of the valve bend on the planned lines or on nadechka and fold with valve right sides inside, adjusting the seam of the lining and valve the sides and grind; when custom pre-orders smatyvay details. The width of the seam grinding 0,5 - 0,7 see Thread smachivaniya removed. Turn the valve on the front side and produce further processed in the same way as a conventional valve.
Bake for valve with rounded edges, cut out the shape of the valve or on the bias thread strictly at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. If the traces are cut on the bias thread, it is necessary to delay and shape of the valve. Bake connect with valve the same as valve rectangular shape, bridging or patch seam. 
  Treatment of valve with piping. If the valve has a rectangular shape with rounded corners (Fig. 28,K),you should first prepare Kant. For Kant cuts out a cross or equity (depending on the fabric) strip of width 4 - 5 cm. The strip is folded along the length in half and iron. Fold strips note the dimensions of the sides and the bottom edge of the edging. Afterwards line grinding angles. Grind off the corners on the planned lines on both sides of the middle by an amount equal to the width of the piping in finished form plus Of 0.1 - 0.2 see
For crisp and smooth lines should make one stitch on a curve. The end of the string is fixed. Seams cut and rautureau or laid out on two sides of Kant turn on the front side, straighten corners and priorivet. Forvalve with rounded edges stripes for edging and cut out at an angle 45' to the warp width 4 - 5 cm (depending on model). Striped fold the length of the underside of the inside draw the shape of the valve and priorivet. A strip of edging applied to the front side of the lining valve, equalizing sections, and pritachivajut on the part of the strip a special foot with a guide, making landing strips for Kant rounded. The line should extend from the bend strips on a distance equal to the width of the piping in finished form plus 0.1, see individual production of a strip of pre-primetyvajut. After verify primitivne or primaqiune strips for Kant valve fold lining, right sides inside, equating slices, and grind the valve from the lining, making the fit of the valveon the radii. The line lay on the line of primaqiune Kant or retreating from it into 0.1 cm When production individual orders before grinding valve lined with smatyvay fit of the valve on the curves. In mass processing valve with piping, use special tool with which you can grind the edges of the valve and at the same time to lay the edging.
  Processing of the valve edge edging seam. Valve fold the lining wrong side inside, equalizing sections, smatyvay or fasten machine stitching at a distance of 0.2 - 0.4 cm (in according to the width of Kant). The edge of the valve can be turned over special braid. The tape delay on the form of the valve, then produce okantovany using special devices one stitching. In the absence of special fixtures and piping bend along the middle so that one edge came out in relation to another on 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and iron; press it to put the strip edgesprepared valve so that the wide side is press strips of tape was from the lining of the valve and primetyvajut a braid along the narrow side to wide side must fall under line. Turn over with the valve in one line. Thread smachivaniya removed. Valve priorivet. In the absence of tape or in according to the model, the edges of the valve can be piped stripe fabric finishing. Strip cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. Width the strips should be equal to twice the width of the edging plus 1 - 1.5 cm (onthe bending sections) . Stripes draw the shape of the valve. Slices strips inflection;in the direction from the inside by 0.5 cm and iron. Then the strip bend along the middle so that tip bent edge is relative to the other by 0.1 - 0.2 cm below, and iron. In press put the strip edge prepared valve so that a wide side press the strips was from the lining of the valve; first primetyvajut on the narrow side strips and then scribbled on a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge so that the wide facestripes must fall under place. Thread smachivaniya removed. In some cases the best effect is treatment of the edges of bound seam without prior autoimune the edges of the strips.
In such cases after fastening the valve with a lining strip for Kant, whether under an angle of 45' to the warp threads, place the front storepos on the front side lining valve and pritachivajut on the distance equal to the width of Kant with the front side of the valve minus 0.1 cm and Then the strip is folded on the front side of the valve, round the seam, cut the strips to buckle inside so to bent edge of a closed line of primaqiune strips, and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. The valve in the readypriorivet.
For more bump on the edges valve should apply the edging seam double folded strip fabric, cut at an angle of 45 to the warp threads (Fig. 28, l). Often such finish by making a strip of core material and less finishing cloth. With this method of treatment first, connect the valve with a lining. Strip for Kant is first retracted, and then fold along in the middle of the underside and inside priorivet. The prepared strip applied to the front side of the valve, equalizing sections, and pritachivajuton the strip, making a landing on the rounded. Joint width should be equal to width of the edging. Then the strip bends around the seam forming edge. Kant fix machine stitch from the front side of the valve in the seam primaqiune strips. With the inside line should pass at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the inner edge of the strip. Valve ready priorivet.